I slipped off on ice. The bike went down and cut the motor wire. leaving me with a difficult repair.
Here's what I did:
Remove the freewheel from the motor with a freewheel removal tool. I had to smash it round with a lump-hammere. I was hoping that the side-plate would unscrew with it because it was so tight, but it didn't, which therefore meant that the side-plate was very tight too.
I use the same method to unscrew the side-plate as for the Q100. Remove one of the countersunk screws and replace it with a hex cap screw with a washer under the head. The cap screw needs to be a few mm longer to compensate for the countersink. Screw it down tight, then use a hammer and drift to knock it round anticlockwise. You must draw a pencil line over the side-plate join to see if it moves. After hitting it 'til the head broke off, the plate hadn't moved, so I tried again on the next screw after warming up the hub with a hot-air gun. It soon started to move, and I was able to unscrew the side-plate and tap out the motor core from the wire side. There's thin silver/grey shim washers either side of the outer centre gear. Be careful not to lose them. There's also one against the outer bearing on the wire side.
To remove the planetary gear carrier plate, just tap the axle against something solid. Gravity will make it slide down the axle. There's a small cuboid key on the shaft. Be careful not to lose it.
You now have just the rotor and stator together. I did separate them, but that didn't give any advantage. I was hoping that I could get better axcess to the slot where the wire comes through the axle, but had no joy.
I cut all the wires at the end of the axle and after lots of struggling, managed to pull them though the inside of the motor. You can pull them one at a time, which is easier and gets easier after each one is pulled through.
I gigured that there was just enough wire on the connector to thread through the axle and re-join to the stator. I pushed it through from the end of the axle, but when it gets to the centre of the motor, it has to turn a right angle, which it didn't want to do, especially as there's a slight lip to stop it. After about two hours of pushinf, pulling and maniplulating with a thin screwdriver and thin pliers, I finally had the wire right through the axle:
The windings are all tied with dacron thread. I tried to untie it, but it's varnished, so easier to cut it off being very careful not to damage the insulation on the windings. Luckily, I do deep sea fishing, so I have dacron fishing line that's the same.After cutting the thread, it's just a case of pulling off the insulating sleeves, cutting off the heat-shrink underneath and unsoldering. Clean the wires (4 strands) with your soldering iron, then wrap them round the new phase wire and re-solder. Soldering the sensor wires is pretty straight forward:
The wires and the pcb need to be tied down. To thread the dacron under the windings, I used a loop; of 40lb nylon fishing line. I could push one end through at a time and use the loop to pull the dacron through. Where it was too tight to get the nylon through, I teased the copper windings with a wooden cocktail stick. Now tied down again. Not very neatly, but should work OK. I put blobs of superglue on the knots to stop it from coming undone:
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Don't forget to check the shim washers.
Here's what I did:
Remove the freewheel from the motor with a freewheel removal tool. I had to smash it round with a lump-hammere. I was hoping that the side-plate would unscrew with it because it was so tight, but it didn't, which therefore meant that the side-plate was very tight too.
I use the same method to unscrew the side-plate as for the Q100. Remove one of the countersunk screws and replace it with a hex cap screw with a washer under the head. The cap screw needs to be a few mm longer to compensate for the countersink. Screw it down tight, then use a hammer and drift to knock it round anticlockwise. You must draw a pencil line over the side-plate join to see if it moves. After hitting it 'til the head broke off, the plate hadn't moved, so I tried again on the next screw after warming up the hub with a hot-air gun. It soon started to move, and I was able to unscrew the side-plate and tap out the motor core from the wire side. There's thin silver/grey shim washers either side of the outer centre gear. Be careful not to lose them. There's also one against the outer bearing on the wire side.
To remove the planetary gear carrier plate, just tap the axle against something solid. Gravity will make it slide down the axle. There's a small cuboid key on the shaft. Be careful not to lose it.
You now have just the rotor and stator together. I did separate them, but that didn't give any advantage. I was hoping that I could get better axcess to the slot where the wire comes through the axle, but had no joy.
I cut all the wires at the end of the axle and after lots of struggling, managed to pull them though the inside of the motor. You can pull them one at a time, which is easier and gets easier after each one is pulled through.
I gigured that there was just enough wire on the connector to thread through the axle and re-join to the stator. I pushed it through from the end of the axle, but when it gets to the centre of the motor, it has to turn a right angle, which it didn't want to do, especially as there's a slight lip to stop it. After about two hours of pushinf, pulling and maniplulating with a thin screwdriver and thin pliers, I finally had the wire right through the axle:
The windings are all tied with dacron thread. I tried to untie it, but it's varnished, so easier to cut it off being very careful not to damage the insulation on the windings. Luckily, I do deep sea fishing, so I have dacron fishing line that's the same.After cutting the thread, it's just a case of pulling off the insulating sleeves, cutting off the heat-shrink underneath and unsoldering. Clean the wires (4 strands) with your soldering iron, then wrap them round the new phase wire and re-solder. Soldering the sensor wires is pretty straight forward:
The wires and the pcb need to be tied down. To thread the dacron under the windings, I used a loop; of 40lb nylon fishing line. I could push one end through at a time and use the loop to pull the dacron through. Where it was too tight to get the nylon through, I teased the copper windings with a wooden cocktail stick. Now tied down again. Not very neatly, but should work OK. I put blobs of superglue on the knots to stop it from coming undone:
Assembly is the reverse of disassembly. Don't forget to check the shim washers.
