Full Suspension Mountain Bike

Time to buy bicycle for Electric Bike Project # 2. Go here to see battery.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=1170
Want Full Suspension Mountain Bike. Rear hub motor. [Not sure which one yet?] Battery will be mounted behind the seat. [On rack, not sure how to mount rack? Might weld?] Will decide how to mount rack after I get bike.

Been looking at local bike shops and on the internet. I am overwhelmed. Got some questions? Mechanical or Hydraulic disk brakes? Been hearing stories about more maintenance needed with hydraulic? Stopping is important if a car goes in front of me. See rear suspension piston mounted horizontal, vertical, and every which way. Think frames are mostly aluminum? Will buy or fabricate torque arms. Any other features I should look for?

What is a good brand of Mountain Bike? Where to buy? Will spend $1000 more or less? Less would be better?

Do know that I should have small size frame. I am 5' 6"

Check on Craigslist or other places they have used ones. You can get a very high quality bike for much less than new.

Mounting the batteries is usually the hardest part. If you're planning on a hub motor, a disk brake might not fit or may need special adaptation.

I used a Schwinn S60 full suspension mountain bike for my project. with 4 dewalt battery, crystalyte 408 hub motor and 35 amp controller. The schwinn is 26" frame. I'm 5' 8" and it still feel a little high so you might want to go for a smaller schwinn. On another post on this forum some one have tried different bikes and his opinion is for sub $300USD the Schwinn seem to be quality one.

Hi Marty here is the link to the ebike I put together. I have a 30 inch inseam and am 5'7. If I were pedaling the bike I would have the seat set up a couple of inches higher than the picture. The battery rack is a DeltaPosthaste and is rated for 40 pounds. If you split your battery and hung it under the rack on either side of the wheel and fabricated some metal supports it would be about the best I can figure. It would lower the weight and keep it as close to the center of the bike as possible for good handling. The Promax disc brake on the front is mechanical and very good. I have stood it on the front wheel in a full power stop. I paid $159 I think for the bike during a mid summer sale.
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=2248&highlight=

I ditto vote for sweet used bike:

-chromoly or aluminum frame,
-nice headset
-good shocks
-nice crank bearings and wheel bearings (if your going to use the front wheel)
-good brakes
-quality components
~$1500 new, $500 (or less) used.

Then get some nice tires. Put all the batts in the back if you want to wheelie around :wink:

In different Topic - Buying a bike to mount the Puma motor

pigboy666 said:

My only advice to anyone buying a bike that they truly mean to use a lot is DON'T buy from a big box store like Walmart, Cosco, Canadian Tire. Buy a bike that has a credible name in the industry ie. Giant, Trek, Ironhorse, Kona, Specialized....etc. Even the cheapest bikes they offer are far stronger and engineered better than the fanciest Walmart bike.

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That is what I am going to do. Never had a good bike in my life :? Buying new not used. Will let you know what I come up with?

Looking at performancebike.com and jensonusa.com any other online places to buy good quality low cost bike? Think local bike shops have higher prices?

Anyone have any experience with Hydraulic disk brakes?

Anyone have experience with Hydraulic disk brakes?

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Yeah a fair bit. I've used them on my past three full suspension downhill mountain bikes. Having three fingers on the handle bar grips gives you better odds of surviving intense jolts and you can go over rough terrain faster with more control, (even while braking to slow down a little bit).

Here are some advantages of hydraulic over mechanical disc brakes:
- less grip strength needed to apply similiar amounts of stopping pressure
- more precise pressure can be applied
- less forearm fatigue on long descents

On my Santa Cruz VPFree, I have Shimano saint 8" rotors front and back. I can ride with three fingers on the grips and only one finger on the brake levers going down stuff I'd be scared to walk down with lots of control.

Here's a review on the brakes I have:
http://www.asilvertouch.com/features.php?feature_id=123

I don't think brakes this good (and pricey) are needed for an electric bike. They really help with things like stopping after big drops, trials, ladders and skinnies, downhilling at high speed where forearm fatigue matters, riding on different surfaces like gravel, wood, dirt, shale, rock, wet lumber etc? That is where these kinds of brakes really make a difference.

Still, I think if you have over 40 pounds of bike or are running over 48+ volts, you want to be able to stop fast. Disc brakes are good for that. If you get mechanical or hydralic, get the ones where pistons push on to both sides of the rotor. The kind that only push on one side aren't nearly as effective. The larger the rotor the more stopping power. You may have mounting issues on your hub motor and Ebikes.ca sells the adapter for a disc to mount to a hub motor.

Swade,
Thanks for the input on Hydraulic disk brakes. Will give up on that idea. Mechanical disk brakes should be good enough for me.

Look at this bike - GT 2006 i-Drive 4 5.0

This is Electric Bike Project # 2. Battery will be mounted above rear wheel. Rear hub motor either http://www.crystalyte.com or "Andy Motor" from http://www.falconev.com ?

Is this a good bike? $729 from http://www.performancebike.com
Here are details:
Levers: Avid FR- 5
Tires: Front: Tioga Yellow Kirin 26 x 2.1 w/ slo rebound tread; Rear: 26 x 2.1 Blue Dragon w/ high energy tread
Headset: FSA Integrated, sealed angular contact bearing
Stem: GT 4 bolt face w/ Tig welded extension and clamp
Handlebar: GT butted Aluminum X Country bar w/ 35mm rise and 7 degree bend
Frame: GT i-Drive 4 6061 Aluminum frame w/ 4 inches of rear wheel travel
Grips/Tape: GT Lock Down
Chain: HG-73 Nine Speed
Fork: Manitou Trance, 100 mm travel w/ preload adjust
Pedals: MTB Hi-impact composite body / steel cage w/ Chromoly spindle, toe clip attachable
Wheelset: Rim: Alex ACE-18; Front Hub: MTB Alloy QR; Rear Hub: Shimano 9-speed
Rear Shock: Rock Shox BAR air shock
Front Derailleur: Shimano Deore
Seatpost: SL Alloy Micro adjust
Cassette: SRAM 9-peed index cassette, 12-32
Rear Derailleur: SRAM SX5
Shifters: SRAM X7
Brakes: Tektro Cold forged
Crankset: TruVativ 5D w/ Power Spline 44/32/22
Bottom Bracket: TruVativ sealed cartridge Power Spline
Saddle: WTB Speed V

Thanks all for your help with Electric Bike Project # 2

marty i think it comes down to the rear dropouts - are they strong, deep and safe? after running a decent bike frame (like this one is) and watching it not react well to electric conversion, i'd err on the side of finding either a cheap bike frame and building the components up.

also you might want to consider a bike that has rear rim brakes. Fitting a disc brake in can be hard esp if the caliper is large.

Looks like there is no room for all the hardware.
Are your main goals for down hill racing? The long travel shocks are a clumsy fork unless your racing down hill. Ask any bike shop owner and he will tell you that suspension is not for comfort, on a street bike. Unless you like bouncing up and down like a pogo stick then go for it.
Suspension bikes are popular with many folks here but i'm a traditionalist and go for CR-moly for comfort and flex. Like this.

recumbent said:

Looks like there is no room for all the hardware.
Are your main goals for down hill racing? The long travel shocks are a clumsy fork unless your racing down hill. Ask any bike shop owner and he will tell you that suspension is not for comfort, on a street bike. Unless you like bouncing up and down like a pogo stick then go for it.
Suspension bikes are popular with many folks here but i'm a traditionalist and go for CR-moly for comfort and flex. Like this.

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I'm not sure what you mean by there is no room for all the hardware?

I tend to disagree, I'm more of a hardcore lycra road racer type, but can't stand the hits u get when hitting a small bump at 55kph (i've got a hard tail cr-moly frame) At lower speeds <40kph i fully agree with you, but its a completely different ballgame when you get into the higher speed range.

BiGH said:

recumbent said:

I'm not sure what you mean by there is no room for all the hardware?
.

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The batteries of course, but I guess people hang them off the seat post. Never rode with that type of set-up, just looks unsecure hanging from the post.
re: high speed bumps, Suspension would definately help, so does big rubber and 25 LBS of air. I never rode a full suspension bike I liked, then graduated to LWB recumbents, and was hooked, that's all.

ahh gotcha

yeah i'd love to try a recumbent - one of these days i'll find someone local who has one


until then my dreams will surround a dually dual motor setup

BiGH said:

marty i think it comes down to the rear dropouts - are they strong, deep and safe?

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Hope so? Will buy or fabricate torque arms.

BiGH said:

also you might want to consider a bike that has rear rim brakes. Fitting a disc brake in can be hard esp if the caliper is large.

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I like a challenge. Don't worry I will make disk brakes fit :?

recumbent said:

Looks like there is no room for all the hardware.

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By hardware? I see you mean batteries. No seat post rack for me. Will have rack above rear tire. Will draw it with Adobe Illustrator for you to see.

recumbent said:

Are your main goals for down hill racing? The long travel shocks are a clumsy fork unless your racing down hill. Ask any bike shop owner and he will tell you that suspension is not for comfort, on a street bike. Unless you like bouncing up and down like a pogo stick then go for it.
Suspension bikes are popular with many folks here but i'm a traditionalist and go for CR-moly for comfort and flex. Like this.

Click to expand...

Got front suspension on my $150 Kmart bike with Bionx Kit. It don't bounce up and down.

We can all agree that good brakes are important. Especially if a car drives in front of me Here is information on brakes.

Tektro Aquila

System
Ball bearing cable actuated mechanical disc brake
Weight:206 grams / wheel

Rotor
Wave design
Diameter: ø160mm
Weight: 136 grams
Option: ø180mm / ø203mm

Caliper
Automatic Caliper Centering (A.C.C)
Dual pad adjustment
Automatic pad angle adjustment via floating plates
Finish: black

Pads
High performance metal ceramic compound

I think the dropout depth is irrelevant - they shouldn't be bearing the torque in the first place - that's what well engineered torque arms are for.

Also, if you are going a rear motor, I would not put the batteries in the back - they need to go in the frame, as far forward as possible. The bike needs to be balanced to handle well, and to carry the damn thing (if needed).


I have Avid BB5 mechanical disc brakes, and they are fine, I can stop with one finger. Hydraulics are better, but decent mechanicals are good enough.

Full suspension is the way to go IMO. These aren't push bikes anymore, you need suspension to protect the batteries from shocks...and the rider if you go fast.

The GT bike is gone. Spent too long thinking about it. Ask 10 electric bike experts for advise on best bike for electric conversion? Get 10 different answers.

Bought Iron Horse Warrior Pro DS 2006, 15" frame, $649 from http://www.rscycle.com
If there is anything seriously wrong with this bike? Please hit the Post Reply button and tell me. Tell me quick. Might be able to cancel order before it ships?

Specifications
Frame: 5" TRAVEL DUAL SUSPENSION, SINGLE PIVOT, W/ SEALED BEARINGS, 1 1/8" ZERO STACK HEAD TUBE, REPLACEABLE DERAILLEUR HANGER, INTERNATIONAL DISC BRAKE MOUNT
Fork: MANITOU SPLICE COMP, 130MM TRAVEL
Rear Shock: FOX VANILLA COIL, 7.5" EYE TO EYE X 2" STROKE
Front Derailleur: SHIMANO DEORE
Rear Derailleur: SRAM X.7
Shifters: SRAM X.7 TRIGGER
Brakes Levers: AVID FR-5
Brakes: AVID BB5 DISC, W/ 6" ROTOR
Chain: SHIMANO HG-73
Crankset: FSA GAMMA
Cassette: SRAM PG-950, 11/34T, 9 SPEED
Pedals: ALLOY PLATFORM
Bottom Bracket: FSA MEGA EXO
Headset: ZERO STACK
Saddle: WTB PURE V SPORT
Seat Post: ALLOY MICRO ADJUST
Handlebar: TRUVATIV LE LOW RISE, 31.8MM CLAMP
Grips: RUBBER
Stem: TRUVATIV XR3D, 31.8MM CLAMP
Tires: WTB WEIRWOLF, 2.35
Wheelset: 32 HOLE ALLOY DISC HUBS W/ WTB SX-24 RIMS, 14G STAINLESS BLACK SPOKES
Weight: N/A
Color: ACID GREEN

Thanks for the help with Electric Bike Project # 2

Congrats on your new bike, your ready for some trail riding now.
Are you going to use the lithium battery pack as is or mount them one on each side like panniers.
When i said bounce up & down earlier I ment the rear only springs do that, not front.
You paid good money for this bike so it should work well for you and have good brakes, you will need them.

Anything wrong with it? hell yeah! I mean just look at the mounting points!
there's only one mount for a drink holder, and its on the wrong side of the tube. Not only can you just carry one beer at a time, but the tire is going to be throwing mud and bugs all over it.

Seriously man, thats a nice bike, and a good price. I think I might have to look at one for my next project.

recumbent said:

Are you going to use the lithium battery pack as is or mount them one on each side like panniers.

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Use the lithium battery pack as is. Attached to rack above rear tire. Real close to tire. Mounted to part of frame that moves up and down. Will draw it with Adobe Illustrator for you to see. Please don't tell me that battery should not be attached to moving suspension parts. It won't move any more then a bike with out rear suspension.

recumbent said:

When i said bounce up & down earlier I ment the rear only springs do that, not front.

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Suspect that there is a spring and shock in the rear suspension. All the cars and trucks I have worked on are like that. Shock keeps the spring from bouncing after it hits bump.

Drunkskunk said:

Anything wrong with it? hell yeah! I mean just look at the mounting points!
there's only one mount for a drink holder, and its on the wrong side of the tube. Not only can you just carry one beer at a time, but the tire is going to be throwing mud and bugs all over it.

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Should be able to carry a few gallons of beer in bags as shown in picture.

I reckon it will be too heavy at the rear end, with a rear motor.

It would be nice if you could get a dually with room for the batteries in the frame, or go with a front motor.

The other thing you may end up needing are V-brake pins on the rear triangle, if you go with a rear motor.

Mark