Whats the best Hydraulic brake system?

I recently posted about a dillenger kit that had no torque and that found out that it was limited with what i could do.. so i did something else. .I went to conhismotor and got myself a two 1000 watt wheels front and back and two controllers for eventually making a unique bike.. anyway.. I seem to come across the same problem again.. The hydraulic brakes that are on the bike are to thick in width.. meaning the space between the rotor/disk and motor is to small..

Now looking into this problem I though ok buying some disks with spacers would work.. nope.. the spacer has a thread which is of no use to the front or back wheels as the back wheel has a 9 speed screwed onto it already.. Now since i am hopefully getting hydraulic brake sensors from dillenger .. (yes still waiting for parts from them) I thought the best solution might be getting new hydraulic brakes.. while waiting for four, four mil spacers to arrive.. lol ..
The one rear rotor i do have with a spacer has alen key bolts though just long enough to hold the spacer onto the rotor.. not long enough to fit extend into the hub LOL..

So my obvious question is which would be the best type of skinny yet good hydraulic brakes that would fit between the rotor disk and motor without having any problems or needing spacers??? I have looked at skeleton hydraulic brakes though really unsure about it all...

Does it sound like i am going crazy with all this? it sure feels like it.. lol..
Thanks for any advice and also apology if its the wrong forum thread.. I was tossing up if this was technical or not..

Cheers.


Ps, to give you an idea of the bike it is a HASA Pro 3.0 with Brakes: Front & Rear: SRAM AVID DB1 Hydraulic Disc Brake with ARTEK 160mm Rotors.

Post a picture. I've installed quite a few 1000 watt hub motors and never had one that could not accommodate a disc brake. The bigger motors, like a chromotor needed spacers to make the disc and caliper fit. But 1000 watt kits...?..? I'm surprised to hear it don't fit.

Wishes

Magura Gustav M will clear the motor cover the best, because both pistons are on the outside on this floating caliper. I've never had a hub motor that needed disc spacers with a Gustav caliper. Most of all, they have a large pad surface, and they are easy to service.



The only better brake with large pads that I have found for my hub builds is the Hope M6. Yet this one doesn't clear the motor, but when adapted to a 9" rotor it is outside of the perimeter of most motors. A good reason to adapt to 9" rotors is that most brake calipers will clear the motor, so you have choice of brakes.

I like my Shimano Zee for a nice middle between price and performance.

They have some really cool features from the bigger brother: Saints. cooling fins on the brake pad backings, ice-tech rotors, and best of all, a VERY easy mineral oil bleed. I run them with 203mm rotors and have yet to have a clearance issue on 2 bikes. But I have 150mm dropouts on one that gives me an extra 8mm that I can play around with spacers. I found that 3 mm is perfect for my needs though.

I have just bought the Hope V2 brakes which uses monobloc calipers and vented and drilled discs.

http://www.google.co.uk/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&docid=Kv0vyzZB4vPQhM&tbnid=8AxS6pqGHlUnNM:&ved=0CAUQjRw&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.wiggle.co.uk%2Fhope-vented-203mm-rotor%2F&ei=6JhFU8Qa4ofQBaWigLAK&psig=AFQjCNFVcYf_fJ4fySSmruIUBBi8LEFHAg&ust=1397156424046178

Magura Gustav M is one of the highest-performing bicycle disc brakes ever tested.

If you have to have hydraulics, which I think are a solution in search of a problem (and bringing along some problems of their own), then Gustav M is an outstanding choice.

The few cable operated discs I have tried have been pitiful compared to good Hydraulic brakes.

Here is some dyno tests of many sets of brakes, the ones I have come third (Hope Tech Evo V2) using the same 180mm rotors used for all the tests, with the vented 203mm rotors I have they are claimed to be 15% more powerful.

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/how-we-test-hydraulic-disc-brakes-24345/

If the "spacer had threads on it, it would seem that it is not a spacer but an adapter.

Here is a spacer:



all it does is move the rotor out 2 mm. Here is the ebay link:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/281297787468?lpid=82

My original disc brakes were so fat that there was nothing I could do except go for a larger rotor. I think your motor is larger though so that might not work.

As an aside, I "upgraded" to the what is probably the cheapest hydraulic set-up available and they are about 100 times better than the mechanical discs. I got a set of Avid elixir 1 front and back and they will just about throw me over the handlebar when I so much as touch them.

I hope you can figure it all out. Good luck!
'Cal

Hey all, Thanks for all the replies..

I cant really give a pic of the bike because its difficult holding the wheel while trying to fit the disk into the caliper that's to big.. lol
I can give you the specs of the front and back wheels that i got if that helps..
Front wheel,
http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=96
Rear wheel,
http://www.conhismotor.com/ProductShow.asp?id=97
I took the six speed gear off and put on a 9 speed which is default for the bike itself..

I am waiting on 4 four mm spacers.. though thinking i might need 10mm allen key bolts to be long enough for them to fit.. 2 for the bike and two spare..
If that dont work then I will go with some suggestions here.. I like the idea of extra stopping power with hydraulic brakes.. so that's why i would like to keep them.. Tough i have heard that adding spacers can hinder the integrity of the bolts and disks..

I have lots of other ideas and features to come after i can get past this first step..

Ps, I m checking out the suggestions on brakes atm.. thanks.. the Hope M6 look interesting ... and the V2

Cheers..

Tench said:

The few cable operated discs I have tried have been pitiful compared to good Hydraulic brakes.

Here is some dyno tests of many sets of brakes, the ones I have come third (Hope Tech Evo V2) using the same 180mm rotors used for all the tests, with the vented 203mm rotors I have they are claimed to be 15% more powerful.

http://www.bikeradar.com/mtb/gear/article/how-we-test-hydraulic-disc-brakes-24345/

Click to expand...

This test is good to have, but it does not test the features we are looking for.
When using hydro disc brakes, the braking power is not much of an issue, because almost any of them will have more power than we need to lock the wheel with one finger.

The features that we need to know are the modulation precision and heat dissipation, because we are using those bicycle brakes in a context that is much closer to motorcycle requirements. Later DH racing brakes are very light weight and powerful because they are small and using small pad surface. Those features are highly desirable in a 5 minutes racing context on a bike that needs to be as light as possible, but those brakes are overheating quickly on a much heavier ebike riding longer distances, and for the same reasons their pads don't last very long.

That is why I recommend using the bigger brakes. Their large pad surface and much better heat dissipation is making them closer to motorcycle brakes, more suitable for our requirements.

I have a set of the Hope Tech V2, they have outstanding precision and power but their pads are worn out in 2 weeks on my performance bikes, and the heat is distorting the rotors making for frequent servicing. They are on a shelf now, waiting to be used on an un-powered DH bike. I don't have those problems with the larger brakes, I wear 2 or 3 sets of pads a year and my rotors are keeping perfect.

Chalo said:

Magura Gustav M is one of the highest-performing bicycle disc brakes ever tested...

Click to expand...

Sadly the Gustav M is getting very hard to find.

MattyCiii said:

Sadly the Gustav M is getting very hard to find.

Click to expand...

Hard to find, but much cheaper than they were 10 years ago.
I find some on ebay or pinkbike occasionally, usually at a very good price.

Wishes said:

Post a picture. I've installed quite a few 1000 watt hub motors and never had one that could not accommodate a disc brake. The bigger motors, like a chromotor needed spacers to make the disc and caliper fit. But 1000 watt kits...?..? I'm surprised to hear it don't fit.

Wishes

Click to expand...

This is not my bike. though it does show some good brakes.. This pictures shows you the perfect angle for the brake itself.. the problem i run into is the inside of the brake is the same thickness as the outside of the brake/rotor.. so the space between the hub and rotor is to small..
Hope that helps even more..

http://static.benswayne.com/images/hobbies/ebike/ninecontinentwithmaguragustavclearanceback.jpg

Cheers.

There is only 15mm between the disk and the hub on my V-power front wheel. The Elixir caliper I have is too large to fit in. Will a elixir 1 fit in? Or are there another solution? I have a 160 disk.
Thanks.

I use all disk brakes now on my e-bikes and those I help build for others...but not for their superior stopping power.

it is just basic physics that a set of rim brakes, acting at the greater distance from the centre of rotation can be more powerful...but usually they are not for a number of reasons.

Hydraulic brakes bring all sorts of issues, but generally once setup, they are more reliable as they wear, so for a non mechanically inclined user they seem more powerful.

My best set of brakes has to be a set of parallelogram action Shimano XTR V-Brakes...on a level par with a set of unknown brand hydraulic rim brakes.

The big big downside with rim brakes is rim wear, pad wear and setup. I eventually gave up with the penny (or cent) piece coin under the front of the pad to set them up for 'toe out' carved some alloy blocks / shims to use with brake setup.

I have fitted a whole selection of different hydraulic callipers to rear motors ...Xlyte Brute..5304 5405 and some weird large un branded thing from moped style bike. If you have the ability and the access to lathe/mill etc .or are patient with a file and hand tools, you can get most callipers to fit most rear motors.

Most big Xlyte style units I have seen, the rear cover never runs true,,,,putting the cover alone a lather is out, ...best bet is to mount the wheel on the bike..turn it upside down, and spin it up under battery power. Get hold of angle grinder with abrasive flap wheel, brace yourself against the frame and 'true up ' the rear cover with gentle use of the flap wheel........don't go mad though...you only have about 3mm to play with on most of these side covers.


Best fit I have is with a set of Tektro Auriga Pro comps