Longboard DIY the "Challenger"

Gregory

100 kW
Joined
Jul 27, 2007
Messages
1,078
Location
Perth, Western Australia
Greg said:
Yeah I've been thinking about an e-skateboard recently too.

psychotiller said:


Challenge accepted.

I haven't ridden a skateboard in 25 (*cough* old man) years.
I'm 100kg and need to get to Central TAFE (technical college) each day, just got made redundant and am starting a Mechanical Engineering (Mechatronics) Diploma. Approx 9km each way, mostly good flat cycle path (along the Midland railway line FWIW).
I'd take the ebike but there isn't anywhere secure to lock it up, just bike racks on the footpath. So days when I don't take the bus, I'm thinking about a skateboard commute.

Aiming for top speed 30km/h, avg 22ish?



Big thanks upfront to dirkdiggler and Torqueboards (and many others) for their comprehensive DIY e-skateboard threads for noobs.

I have been on an online shopping spree today. Unfortunately not much is available locally so it will be a couple of weeks until the postman has to lug it all to me.

So far I have bought (and I'm open to all criticism)
  • 38" Comet 9 ply drop through longboard
    Turnigy 6374 168kV - only $53 I think HK made an error or something, saved $30
    Castle Creations XL2 ESC - I really like their stuff
    Quanum controller for now, but the Nunchuck looks great
    Paris Trucks
    97mm wheels, might buy 90mm in future if I go 8S

Yet to finalise
  • Approx 1.8:1 pulley ratio but I want to get the other parts first before committing to centre-centre distances etc
    Welded motor mount

And I'll use what 6S Turnigy batteries I have for now, but probably go 8S eventually. Will see about capacity...starting at 10Ah (200Wh) seems as good as anything.

So that's the intro post thanks for reading this far, I can't wait to see what it turns out like.

edit : I like to edit my posts a lot
 
I'm old and have broken everything. Never really stopped boarding over this last 30 years, but definitely slowed my roll :roll:
Just take her easy. The power/torque your board will have is going to be a surprise, but as long as you respect the trigger you'll be fine.
Have fun with your Build!
 
When you order your gears..
just as an afterthought... you might want to buy 2 sprockets/belt dimensions...
My first board was crazy fast..real loco.. insane vertigo at 25 kph...after a week it was ok, a month into it it was a ughhh..
My second board (first gearing) was crazy fast..real loco.. insane vertigo at 35 kph.. after a month it was fun but not scary..
My second board (second gearing) was crazy fast..real loco.. insane vertigo at 42 kph.. after a month it was fun but not scary..
My third board is crazy fast... real loco.. insane vertigo at 56 kph.. Theoretically does 65.. never gone that high...scares the crap out of me...

Soooo assuming that you are in any manner like me... (And I dont mean the Good Looking and Smart part) you will outgrow your 30 kph gearing...
consdering sdi-pi charges a buttload for shipping you could just order an additional sprocket (or maybe sprocket belt combo) that would allow you the potential to gear up to 40kph...

just sayin...

Edit: Love the board's name.. I own a 65 mustang convertible, and am currently restoring a 66 fastback.. And an trying to convince the wife we really, really need a dodge Challenger for the next proyect...
 
Thanks for the feedback. The Castle XL2 has current limiting down to 100A, plus all the punch control & throttle mapping so I'll program it all to girly low levels for testing. I am a bit worried about ending up on my arse.

Beto, I hear that and it's not just the cost but the 3 week waiting on the post too. I went with RS online for the pulleys and belt I ordered today, less selection & more expensive than SDP/SI, but local so that helps if I want to gear up in the future. Found them mentioned in the Aussie eBoarder thread. Having said that there's also the option of going to 8S. A mate of mine restored a black Challenger many years ago, not common in Australia. Was a beautiful big boat of a car.

Ordered
  • 16T and 30T 5mm HTD in 9mm width. Belt is 53 teeth. 1.8 ratio
    Torqueboards mount.

Pulled out my 8 x 6S 2.2Ah batteries that have been sitting in the shed for a year and charged them all up. 4 of these should get me going.

IMG_20140713_121748.jpg
 
Post man has been busy delivering most of my parts this week. I'm yet to receive the Quanum Rx/Tx from HK.

Have mocked it up today. Will pluck up the courage to weld the truck mount tomorrow, but have to bore out the pulleys first to check alignment and clearances.

I do like the look of the drop through Comet deck. I have another regular mount deck if this one proves too low.

View attachment 3

97mm wheels look comically large, but I needed the clearance. Once the 1/8" shock pads go on I'll only have 20mm clearance from the ground. And the motor can will also be damn close to the deck too. I'm unsure here as to what's the minimum I can get away with - might have to cut down the top of the mount to get full turning radius.

Clearance.jpg


Will solder two of the 50V 330uF low ESR capacitors close to the ESC for ripple.

BMS is from Bestech, 80A continuous for a one plug charge/balance. It is enormous and mostly unpopulated since it's good for up to 24S. Not sure I'll use this.

Top.jpg

Rear.jpg

Heres a fake motion photo courtesy of Google auto awesome.
4ajzYx1h-Tg
 
I'm setting up a front wheel drive.

If I have regular foot stance, should I have the pulley on the left or right front wheel? Specifically when turning do you tend to turn one way sharper hence need fractionally more clearance on that side? Or does it make next to no difference?
 
I dont know if drop through is a good idea. looks like you'll have clearance problems.

being front wheel drive is a smart idea with this setup though - Because i think if that mount was at that angle on the rear truck it would likely hit whenever transitioning from road to footpath - down driveways etc.

It looks like you're taking clearance measurements at the hanger, but the mount looks like it is sitting lower to the ground at the motor end.... i would recommend the motor angles the other way - towards the deck.

take your board outside and sit the front wheels on the road and have your back wheels still on your driveway - push board back & forth a few times at different angles... if the motor mount does not scrape the concrete edge that is near the gutter go ahead & weld that puppy on.
 
ALSO....

I forgot to say "howdy mate" its good to see another aussie on here building eboards
 
Well spotted, the motor end of the mount is sitting a few mm lower. There is some extra metal I can remove...


That's a good idea. Will stick it all together and try the "mount the kerb" test tomorrow.
 
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