Recent content by 4sken

Sort of, I don't get torque when I want it during turns. On my gas machines the torque kicks in much much much faster than the electric setup, so I can modulate the throttle and change where the weight is on the bike. No such thing on the ebike. I'm kind of interested in reprogramming the chip...

That perfectly explains it. There's always a lag, and it changes depending on speed. Perhaps the ramp speed can be changed; A diode or a resistor, etc? It's more than likely baked/flashed into an IC though.

Yup, batteries are LiPo. Max output is 17kW so that's not a problem. I did beef the traces with extra copper wire and plenty of solder. The problem is the controller was like this before the shunt mod; it kicks on slowly and responds slowly to throttle. I think it's intentional, to keep it...

I've got a 1000w 16FET controller shunt modded to 2.5kw...

I don't understand how connecting one phase to the axle would cause a short condition... Path of least resistance would be from the bike frame, cross the axle onto the phase. Where would that short to?

I haven't seen this done much at all or even talked about (Might be a lack of searching) But wouldn't it be possible to ground out an entire phase to the bike frame, letting you have bigger phase wires into the axle?

Or make your own frame for 50 and spend the rest on either 'moar voltssss' or just a line of cocaine; either way, buying frames is expensive and you can build one in the time it takes to ship-If you own a welder. Hell, if there's a machine shop around and they have a pipe bender they can make...

That's probably it :( Well, looks like I'm getting a sine regen controller then... woe is me ;)

That's the thing; same brand controller. Same manufacturer. Are you saying the display might be calibrated for each controller? Hmm, that's pretty interesting. Would you know how to calibrate it? IMO if it were miscalibrated it would just show an incorrect value instead of nothing.

I have a KT-3 LCD (https://www.google.ca/search?q=kt3+lcd&espv=2&biw=1920&bih=955&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ved=0ahUKEwivneW7tPbKAhUHmh4KHc_ZBDoQ_AUIBygC#imgrc=XPK_XrCZLNF-5M%3A) That worked fine, until at one point the hall sensors in my motor went. I fixed it after a while and moved everything...

It's in there- Top theoretical speed is your max speed dependant on voltage and Kv; Type that speed into the input side and you'll see how many watts you'll need. I thought of adding it in, but it's a lot of extra code and turning a lot of math backwards on itself only to do something the user...

If you own a welder in all honesty I'd recommend making your own frame. It's hard to buy a frame for a bike with dimensions required for batteries, the suspension you'll wish you had and the sizing you'll want. It's just 30$ of steel and a 20$ donor bike to take cranks off. I can help you with...

That's straight up goddamn dangerous mate. Close your eyes and imagine it starts bumping loose-next time you twist the throttle the shaft will want to spin counterclockwise. It'll push against the left side of the dropouts towards the front, pushing the back of the shaft against the opposite...

If you'd like, throw some of the equations at me and i'll stick them in java and build a quick GUI in it (Like https://goo.gl/23d62r) Looks like a pretty neeto setup you've got. If someone had mentioned it to me, i'd call them crazy saying pulse and glide would be more efficient than straight...

Your build looks very solid imo, nice thick torque arms and low motor power. For my build I needed to get to and from work and had no other transportation available due to unforseen circumstances so I threw a 1000w front hub on an old (1980's) carbon steel road bike frame using a front wheel on...