Recent content by Endless squarer

While trying to fix the switch in my 36V 11AH bottle battery, I got curious and decided to investigate the rest of the battery. After opening up the top end, I noticed the bms and out of interest I decided to measure the voltage going into the BMS. Needless to say, it was a moment of poor...

Is there any way I can use the parts from another 36V controller yo change the lvc on the 48V controller??

The controller has only 48V on the sticker. Is it possible to re-use the resistor from the old controller that was blown or would the resistor be busted as well? (I had blown an fet) I also have an unused controller which is 36/48V but was not sine wave and wasn't compatible with my bike. Can...

Thanks flangefrog Is it possible to change it from a 48V setting to a 36V setting from LCD, if so how? How can you change it within the controller itself?

I was just wondering whether it was possible to change the LVC of a controller with the KT-LCD1? Is this possible? If so, how? Background- I recently bought a 48V sine-wave controller, but I have a 36V battery but afterwards found out the LVC on the 48V sine wave was too high for my 36V...

Thanks for the input, I think that must be where I went wrong. I'll look at getting a 36V controller instead. :D

I'd been considering that myself as well Nelson. I originally had a 36/48V rated controller, but because that blew I thought it would be wise to go up. So a 48V controller could have a higher LVC than my 36V battery can output? Sure Amberwolf, that seems a much quicker way

Thanks amberwolf. My display does not give any raw data such as wattage or voltage, but i'll try to measure this with dmm. Since phase/hall connections could also be the issue, i'll go through all 36 combinations this weekend and let you know the results.

A few months ago I was riding my bike (36V 500W kit, Dillenger) up a relatively steep incline when it just suddenly cut off. It turns out I had blown the controller, one of the FETs to be exact, and I did not know this at the time. I ended up having to push the bike the rest of the way and there...

Okay so it's most likely the controller that's faulty?? Thanks very much for all your help :)

The first test did not yield a fluctuating voltage (a constant 4.26) when the signal wire was disconnected. The second test showed around 4v (measured between signal(white) and gnd(black) on controller side, the wires from throttle disconnected)

So I'm disconnecting the output signal wire and leaving the 5v(red) and gnd(black) connected to the controller??

Yes there was between 4-5V between ground and the red wire

I apologize for the lack of full sincerity, having just attained the new controller as a replacement for a shorted one, I did not want to face the consequences of being told that the controller was where the fault lay

I conducted the test, I have power to the throttle however the signal cable test is bouncing all over the place, regardless of whether the throttle is at full rotation or not.