15s in a 48v controller

[t_tberg]

I have a 48v controller with caps rated for 63v. Has anyone had success with charging 15s to 4.1v while using a similar 15 fet controller? I know its pushing it and I know the LVC wouldn't save my batteries from over discharging. It would just be for a short period of time until I receive some resistors in the mail so I can add a CA DP connector and use the CA to set the parameters on the controller.

 

[Ykick]

I ran 15S RC Lipo on 48V controller for years.

 

[t_tberg]

Did you charge to 4.2 every time? You had similar 63v caps, no?

 

[Ykick]

Yes, 63V caps. Majority of the time I charged to 4.15V/cell (62.2V) but every once in a while I would run it on 4.2V/cell (63V). Never brought me any grief but I wouldn't go any higher than that without updating caps and possibly fussing with the 12V voltage regulator components.

 

[wesnewell]

I run 24s fully charged to 100.8V on my 72V controller with 100V caps and fets and have been for almost 4 years now. Prior to that I ran it on 18s for a year. If you have a problem running 15s on a controller with 63V caps, then the controller is defective.Just be aware of the controllers watt rating and don't run it too long over that rating.

 

[t_tberg]

I tried 15s and got no response. the controller works fine with a 48v battery fully charged to 54v, why don't I get a response at 62.7v? Is there some sort of high voltage protection?

 

[wesnewell]

If you have a kit that uses a lcd display, most of them limit voltage to 60V max.

 

[t_tberg]

I don't use the stock throttle. I have a voltage read out on the throttle like this: http://www.ebay.com/itm/12v-24v-36v-48v-Electric-Scooter-Bike-E-Bike-Bicycle-Handlebar-LED-Throttle-Grip-/262018450424

 

[t_tberg]

From the description: "Yellow wire to power +（24v 36v 48v 72v...)" I can't imagine the that this throttle would inhibit the controller

 

[wesnewell]

I'm talking about the lcd display that plugs into the controller. Not the throttle. I wish they made a thumb throttle with a voltmeter in it like that.

 

[t_tberg]

I don't have any kind of display. The kit is probably the older model, it is the one with the three rings on the hub motor.

 

[wesnewell]

Discharge the battery down to 60V and see if it works then. If it does, then you'll have to find the controllers HVC circuit and change it for a higher voltage. Or buy another controller that will work at higher voltages.

 

[t_tberg]

59v works. I'll charge the batteries incrementally and test compatibility every .5v increase when the packs are in series.

 

[t_tberg]

59.5v is functional

 

[t_tberg]

60v lookin' good.

 

[t_tberg]

Overshot the last one a little.. 60.8v still works though

 

[t_tberg]

61v and still functioning

 

[t_tberg]

61.7v and the controller isn't responding. I'm guessing that my controller has a HVC of 61.5v? I'll discharge a bit and update

 

[t_tberg]

61.5v confirmed as the HVC for my particular controller. This is suitable for the 4.1v per cell that I normally charge to. I wanted to go on a long ride with my GF yesterday after completing my second build so I fully charged my batteries. We were still able to go out I just had to carry a 48v 20ah prebuilt battery in my backpack which isn't as bad as it sounds if you have an appropriate backpack. Thanks for all of your replies, I'm still a little curious as to why my controller seems to be the only one with a HVC. Wes, I hope you didn't get hit too hard during that hail storm yinz had last week.

 

[wesnewell]

HVC can be a good thing. It could be you just got one that's a little lower than another one. If you could find the circuit on the board, a simple resistor change could change it. But I have no idea what controller you have, and if I did, I wouldn't know which resistor to change. We all got hit pretty good here, I counted daylight in more than 15 places in the roof. Water poured into the house thru most light fixtures, but at least the ceiling didn't cave in anywhere yet. Yard looks like a bad golfer used it for a practice tee with divots up to 2 inches deep all over.

 

[t_tberg]

I would be completely lost trying to identify the HVC; working on electric bikes has certainly expanded my knowledge of electrical components and mechanisms. I'm blown away seeing the electrical engineers on here reserves engineering controllers. I'm sorry to hear that, I hope you have good insurance... :?

 

[spdas]

Hope you are ok in Texas.

Controllers can be all over the board and are to give a hard and fast rule. My original controller was a 24-36v 250-350Watt device that had 50v caps. I was running it fine for weeks at 16s- 64-66v with no trouble. Until I was clowning around and trying to climb a curb. ie , hi amperage no motor rotation and @ 64v the controller finally let go. Another controller I got rated 800w and 64v, is a piece of junk and motor has never run smoothly. Another $25.00 one runs fine but cuts out under acceleration unless you are very lite on the throttle.
The best one (Sunwin) $15.00 60v and 800W and runs great and is quiet and blue/green/yellow in phase and halls matched perfectly. So hard to figure.

francis.

 

[wesnewell]

There's no such thing as good insurance. I don't have any and don't regret it. Damage appears to be <$10K. I've probably saved that much or more over the last 20 years not paying for insurance. No need to take a collection up. I've got it covered. Oh, and the people that do have insurance only get about 50% of repair cost anyway after double deductible because of th 2 hailstorms. Lot's of people had the roofs replaced with the first one a few weeks ago. If you watched 60 minutes Sunday, you know just one way they screw people out of their money on life insurance. Their moto should be we got our hands in your pocket, not your in good hands with......