18650 battery Kit development and discussion[testing done]

I took some holders and put them into same 14S6P to see how bigger it is and its not that much considering you could squeeze some sort of bms plus wiring:
OcPLNZm.jpg
 
So i could not resist and bought myself a 3D printer. I hope it will help me move faster with this project. Relying on third parties to make prototypes is pure nonsense time and money wise.
Anyway, i got Original Prusa i3MK2. The price was right, reviews were good, why not:) The bed only houses 10S6P version, but that's enough to test it out. I am still waiting for it and as ES'er i got the kit 8). We build stuff, right? :)
Got some PETG filament to get my stuff printed.
 
CLAPPING!!!!! Well done!
 
Printed another sample of a smaller pack. This one is 12s3p and holds 333wh with 2.5ah cells.
Its gonna be not as finished as my main pack bit never the less fully functional:

XWvLWXy.jpg


VfU5I5O.jpg
 
Any hope in marketing this? Especially 13 or 14s?
 
agniusm said:
Yes, i hope i can deliver. 14s. My printer does not fit 14s but for testing purposes 12s is fine.
Not 13s either? I'd be interested . 10s4p, 5p as well. Much bigger is just to much weight for the bikes using them. And that's really all I need in a city that's only 6 miles long and 2 miles wide, roughly.
It's been great watching this develop. Thanks!
 
No fives, no fours, 3s and 6s unless you would like to sponsor me 1000 quid for machine punch and die for each configuration ;)
 
agniusm said:
No fives, no fours, 3s and 6s unless you would like to sponsor me 1000 quid for machine punch and die for each configuration ;)
Both are good with me. I'll take what I can get!
 
The battery forum is so dull these days, and this thread is one of few lights in the dullness.
Not much happening on the cell front it seems, and there are few active creative threads.

So what top/bottom materials will you use for the end product? The Tufnol?
I have a 400x400plastic printer if you need to make a slightly larger prototype.
Would not charge anything for a basic pla or petg print.

Projects like this need to be brought forward for the greater good :)
 
Thanks for the warm words, helps to keep doing something.
At the moment i am set on GFRP FR4. We want those batteries to be safe if anything goes wrong. For sides i am planning on anodized aluminium sheet.
I have almost everything worked out, except the connections between connector(17W4) and positive/negative tabs. I think i will change the way balancing terminals are made and have a larger piece with a hole punched sticking out more so i can use ring terminal and bolt. Has to be simple and no soldering involved.
On the printing side i am all set. It does not matter the size i have for testing. All is going around the tab design. Mine is 6p so i can cut it in half to make 3p with no extra cost in tooling, but for the series I can scale down/up whatever i want/need in 1S increments, does not really matter, 40S if i want to :)
Still sourcing where i can get different connector quicker than from Chaina. I bought samples of 21W4 but its too wide, so i will have to go with 17W2(good up to 14S). Its good for 2kW and could be left out to use connector for higher current.
That's all i can say about that.
 
Wheazel said:
The battery forum is so dull these days, and this thread is one of few lights in the dullness.
Not much happening on the cell front it seems, and there are few active creative threads.



Projects like this need to be brought forward for the greater good :)
You nailed it. This a nd the Kepler project are amazing.
I'm anything but talented as an engineer and have wanted to see a product like this from my first battery purchase. It's a long overdue concept and Anguism has put so much positive energy into it.

Very excited and hope it becomes a valued product for a good fella.
 
nice to see. Looking at the last pics, and forgetting everything else :oops: it seems the bolts squeeze the 3d print and that in turn presses on the copper against the cells. the dimples are a must but to me it would seem best with no air behind the copper, a solid clamped connection, and the flex of the 3d print is the spring, but maybe the copper is so thick it wouldn't crush even if someone way over tighteneed. . If the print is effectively the spring, will it lose it's pressure over time? maybe you'll have to retightnen repeatedly with standard 3d print stuff but bet there's something ideal to print. hope you the best or maybe you already know it'll work.
like the threaded beam design. how much pressure can an 18650 take?
 
3d printintig is prototyping and it not gonna work as a spring. Poron is the spring and it's not clamped tight. Poron is compressed 50 percent.
 
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