1st electric longboard(build)

[sl33py]

Good looking setup Kusdfus! I like the graphics on your deck especially.

I see a lot of suggestions and perhaps i've missed it, but what's your expected use? Flats or hills? How much do you weigh? Those are the important pieces to gear something correctly. Do you have a gearing calculator yet? You can buy motor and wheel pulleys online. Search for HTD 5mm pulleys if you choose to stick to our "standard" 5mm belts. You might opt to go with a 15mm wide belt instead of 9mm for a single motor setup. It will depend on your weight and use though. Bombing hills and braking heavily i'd recommend the wider (more surface area = less teeth "skipping" clicking when braking hard). Downside is increased resistance overall, but it's not too bad unless you plan on long stretches of kick/pushing your e-board.

onlinebelting.com (link to their HTD 5mm gears in 9/15mm widths) is a great site for just about any size pulley you could want. I like the ability to add the keyway and grub screws. They are $$ though, especially when you take into consideration the cost for shipping from the UK. Being in Latvia this might be better/closer for you anyway.

Re-read the thread and see you say no hills. So on the flats you should be fine with a smaller motor (I'd still steer most people towards a single 63mm motor) - but it will mostly depend on your weight. If you are lightweight a smaller motor will work fine, if you are heavier a bigger motor would be better. I might say lighter than 140lbs or heavier (60kg or less = 50mm motor, >60kg = 63mm motor). Arbitrary and my opinion. I know plenty who have ridden for years on 50mm motor(s). I am 120kg and can get moving on 50mm motor, but it's all in the gearing and a tradeoff.

Your charger - the Imax/SkyRC is a decent AC/DC charger and it has a laptop "brick"/power supply in the raised section (i know i just took mine apart). It's a lot slower than a DC Only charger like an iCharger, but for the price it's a great choice. I especially like (and please confirm as there are several variants) the Internal Resistance feature! Great to health check your batteries. I write the IR on the pack when new and check periodically. High IR = old/dead pack.

I'm happy to help make some suggestions on gearing if you let us know how fast you want to go? What size wheels are you using? The variables in my excel sheet calculator are :
1. Wheel Size
2. Battery Voltage (# in series - 6s/8s/10s/12s)
3. Motor Gear (#teeth)
4. Wheel Gear (#t)

I've found it to be very close to reality measuring setups against GPS when riding. I typically gear to a top speed of 25mph which is probably too fast. I'd do 20mph and call that plenty normally. If you want to go really fast you are almost always going to sacrifice startup torque and need a couple kick/pushes to get going.

HTH - GL!

 

[KusdFus]

Good looking setup Kusdfus! I like the graphics on your deck especially.

I see a lot of suggestions and perhaps i've missed it, but what's your expected use? Flats or hills? How much do you weigh? Those are the important pieces to gear something correctly. Do you have a gearing calculator yet? You can buy motor and wheel pulleys online. Search for HTD 5mm pulleys if you choose to stick to our "standard" 5mm belts. You might opt to go with a 15mm wide belt instead of 9mm for a single motor setup. It will depend on your weight and use though. Bombing hills and braking heavily i'd recommend the wider (more surface area = less teeth "skipping" clicking when braking hard). Downside is increased resistance overall, but it's not too bad unless you plan on long stretches of kick/pushing your e-board.

onlinebelting.com (link to their HTD 5mm gears in 9/15mm widths) is a great site for just about any size pulley you could want. I like the ability to add the keyway and grub screws. They are $$ though, especially when you take into consideration the cost for shipping from the UK. Being in Latvia this might be better/closer for you anyway.

Re-read the thread and see you say no hills. So on the flats you should be fine with a smaller motor (I'd still steer most people towards a single 63mm motor) - but it will mostly depend on your weight. If you are lightweight a smaller motor will work fine, if you are heavier a bigger motor would be better. I might say lighter than 140lbs or heavier (60kg or less = 50mm motor, >60kg = 63mm motor). Arbitrary and my opinion. I know plenty who have ridden for years on 50mm motor(s). I am 120kg and can get moving on 50mm motor, but it's all in the gearing and a tradeoff.

Your charger - the Imax/SkyRC is a decent AC/DC charger and it has a laptop "brick"/power supply in the raised section (i know i just took mine apart). It's a lot slower than a DC Only charger like an iCharger, but for the price it's a great choice. I especially like (and please confirm as there are several variants) the Internal Resistance feature! Great to health check your batteries. I write the IR on the pack when new and check periodically. High IR = old/dead pack.

I'm happy to help make some suggestions on gearing if you let us know how fast you want to go? What size wheels are you using? The variables in my excel sheet calculator are :
1. Wheel Size
2. Battery Voltage (# in series - 6s/8s/10s/12s)
3. Motor Gear (#teeth)
4. Wheel Gear (#t)

I've found it to be very close to reality measuring setups against GPS when riding. I typically gear to a top speed of 25mph which is probably too fast. I'd do 20mph and call that plenty normally. If you want to go really fast you are almost always going to sacrifice startup torque and need a couple kick/pushes to get going.

HTH - GL!

Thanks for the great answer. As I said. I don't have any hills where I live. Only flats. My weight it 75kg. I am planning to use 83mm wheels, this battery x2: http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__8579__ZIPPY_Flightmax_5000mAh_3S1P_20C.html. I don't think that I need a really fast acceleration. And if the top speed would be somewhere around 20-25 km/h it would great. Well, if it can go even faster than I'm okey with that too And the graphics were very easy to make with this simple method (skip to 5:15) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gl2M2RpppHE . And if you are wondering what's in that bottle, it's solvent. I suppose that the main ingredient is ksylol because it says on the bottle . There are different kind of solvents so be carefull. Chose the one with ksylol. Some of them may not work. I don't know . I just bought mine at my local home improvement store nad it worked.

 

[sl33py]

Glad that helps. Doing a quick calculation on your wheel size and 6s (assuming you are placing your 3s batteries in series for 6s):

Diameter		Motor KV		Battery S/V		M pully		Hub pulley
								
83		270		6		13		36
								
Speed= KPH	36.6143544							
Speed= MPH	22.05684							
actual speed	18.5277456

I would recommend a lower KV motor if you can find one like a 245, 200, or 190/192.

If you get a VESC (which i recommend above all others), you'd have the ability to run 8/10s down the road. You *might* still be limited to a max of 10s with >200kv motors. Not sure if v4.8 he's releasing soon will fix this limitation and allow 12s on over 200kv motors.

The above setup will do 25mph/40kph on 8s, 31mph/49kph on 10s to compare.

Comparing the difference of lower KV motor - the same setup on 6s using a 200kv motor would be 14mph/27kph. Then moving to 8/10s = 18mph/29kph and 23mph/37kph.

I would recommend a larger lower kv motor like the SK3 6364 190kv - it will give you ample power for a single motor setup, is flexible down the road if you want to increase voltage (8/10/12s), but run perfectly on 6s.

6s 14/36:

Diameter		Motor KV		Battery S/V		M pully		Hub pulley
								
83		190		6		14		36
								
Speed= KPH	27.7476304							
Speed= MPH	16.71544							
actual speed	14.0409696

great starter setup and you can add one more 3s battery later for 9s! If you have an ESC that will do >6s obviously.

It's easy to spend someone else's money, and i'm not sure what your budget is... but the one place i'd spend the premium $ is the ESC.

The VESC is in production for delivery next month. Newest v4.8 from Vedder selling on Enertion here. About $20 more than a XERUN or similar 120/150A ESC. Worth the premium as long as you do the couple simple steps to configure to your motor!

Good luck!