6 awg wiring & 75 Amp connectors

[Deepkimchi]

Now these connectors and wiring are made for amperage. Cable from www.cablecotech.com -very flexible.

Housing s and connectors from Mouser. These wont separate like the 30A ones. Contacts are about 1/8 inch thick at ends.

Now if I could find a fuse with 6 awg cable and a shunt for the Cycle Analyst with heavier wire. Had to downsize temporarily.

DK

 

[Roy]

Ok. So big wire is fun and cute. But have you actually measured the difference in power loss? We are curious.

 

[Deepkimchi]

Given your "cute" response - why don't you look at some previous posts, and then look at a few tables of ampacity.

Do you run 50A in your 12-14 awg house wiring? :?

 

[CGameProgrammer]

I run around 50 amps through 10-gauge wire. It's rated to handle it. Unless you're using very long wires, which you aren't in an e-bike, I don't think you'll benefit from using a larger wire than 10-gauge for 50 amps or below.

The powerpoles, on the other hand, are more useful, since they do have significantly stronger retention force than a single 15/30/45-amp powerpole. And they make contacts for 10-gauge wire for the 75-amp powerpoles.

 

[snowcrow]

I run around 50 amps through 10-gauge wire. It's rated to handle it. Unless you're using very long wires, which you aren't in an e-bike, I don't think you'll benefit from using a larger wire than 10-gauge for 50 amps or below.

The powerpoles, on the other hand, are more useful, since they do have significantly stronger retention force than a single 15/30/45-amp powerpole. And they make contacts for 10-gauge wire for the 75-amp powerpoles.

Not all wire of the same gauge is created equal The insulation, number of strains, conductor type, and for AC or DC usage, all are factors in the amperage a wire can handle.

Blessings, Snow Crow

 

[Jeremy Harris]

On the topic of reasonably good value connectors, has anyone used these from Hobby City? : http://tinyurl.com/ct9zuk

They look like they'd be good for ~200A or so, and from some of the reviews it looks like they hold together firmly. Seems a cheap way to get some high power connectors to me, as all that's needed is some heatshrink over them once assembled. They're certainly a lot cheaper than Andersons of this sort of current rating.

Jeremy

 

[CGameProgrammer]

I don't know. Two-pole andersons insulate the connections, prevent reverse polarity, are rated for many make/break cycles, and they have screw holes for mounting if desired. They also have large plastic grips for uncoupling.

I guess those other contacts would be OK if you don't actually plan on disconnecting them, particularly out in the field. They're said to be very difficult to pull apart, and this might become even more true after running power through them.

 

[CamLight]

On the topic of reasonably good value connectors, has anyone used these from Hobby City? : http://tinyurl.com/ct9zuk

They look like they'd be good for ~200A or so, and from some of the reviews it looks like they hold together firmly. Seems a cheap way to get some high power connectors to me, as all that's needed is some heatshrink over them once assembled. They're certainly a lot cheaper than Andersons of this sort of current rating.

Jeremy

Those "bullet" connectors are very popular with the R/C community for their light weight. The largest ones, 6mm and 8mm, are said to be able to handle 200A intermittently but not continuous. It's often the attached wiring though that causes the problem. If you run 200A through 8AWG wire, that connector will get hot and stay hot since the wire is hot too and not able to sink any heat away from the connector. Hook them up with 1/0 and the wire will sink heat away very nicely, making the connectors able to handle perhaps even 200A continuously.

But, getting 1/0 soldered to those connectors is problematic, at best.
Add on the problems with polarity and the live metal ends flopping around whenever you disconnect a pack and the other connector types start looking pretty good IMHO.

 

[Deepkimchi]

I like the feel of the large 75A Anderson housings (or Tycho - seem to be the same), seems like they won't pull out with road vibration. I was having to tape the 45A housings together because they came loose so often. I always disconnect when I get to the office and home.

The 6 AWG connectors crimped well, and fit well in the 75A housings. I could always get the 30A connectors to crimp right, but not those 45A open connectors on larger wire.

I put panniers on my bike, so the distance increased a good bit for the wires.

DK

 

[CGameProgrammer]

This tool crimps those 45-amp contacts well, in addition to the 15- or 30-amp ones.

 

[Deepkimchi]

Love the large connectors - started riding again. When I disconnect these at no load, no spark, connectors still clean. Was getting a nasty spark when I disconnect my 30-45A connectors. Also don't have to tape these to keep from coming loose on rough roads.

 

[steveo]

Love the large connectors - started riding again. When I disconnect these at no load, no spark, connectors still clean. Was getting a nasty spark when I disconnect my 30-45A connectors. Also don't have to tape these to keep from coming loose on rough roads.

If you make sure the capasitors in the controller are charged up you will not have any spark!!

Pluge a 50ohm resistor (50 v pack) in series before you connect he main positive battery power on the pack
100 ohms for 100v pack
for 133 v like me i must precharge the capasitors .. if i dont' when i plug my 150ohm resistor it burns out lol ...

i love the 75amp connections .. i wish i designed my pack with those!! but due to the battery pack limited space.. i settled with copper brad similar to 10 or 12 gauge wire.. the wires a really short .. so there is minimal heat.!

-steveo

 

[oofnik]

I use the 6mm bullet connectors with 10 awg at 50A continuous with no noticeable heating. They are very easy to solder if you do it correctly. The way I do it is using a small pen torch, heat up the connector to solder melting temperature. Fill the connector completely with solder. Take your wire and stick it in to the connector while applying heat with the torch. This will easily and quickly melt the solder in to the wire and create a very solid electrical and mechanical connection. Let it cool, heat shrink around it and you're done!
This is next to impossible to do with a regular soldering iron - you need a mini butane torch.