90V 300a 50ah+ Battery - "Where Can I Purchase a New Battery in the US?"

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Sep 21, 2022
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Hello folks, I currently have a 84v 70ah 200a battery in a stainless steel case. My QS 273 draws so many amps at half empty it will trip the BMS protection at full throttle and leave me stranded. When I bought the battery I had the crappy Sabvaton controller that was limited to 72v 220a, it died, I replaced it with Nucular 24f, which handle 90v so I would like to get more capacity and to protect against current draw that dips too low and trips the BMS.

I saw a vendor in Las Vegas that built custom battery packs with BMS but I can't find them again.

Can anyone recommend someone that will build to my specs?

Thanks in advance!
 
Hello folks, I currently have a 84v 70ah 200a battery in a stainless steel case. My QS 273 draws so many amps at half empty it will trip the BMS protection at full throttle and leave me stranded. When I bought the battery I had the crappy Sabvaton controller that was limited to 72v 220a, it died, I replaced it with Nucular 24f, which handle 90v so I would like to get more capacity and to protect against current draw that dips too low and trips the BMS.

I saw a vendor in Las Vegas that built custom battery packs with BMS but I can't find them again.

Can anyone recommend someone that will build to my specs?

Thanks in advance!
I came across Amorge battery, china, they have a 96v 80ah or 40ah,google awj 9680200 or awj9640300 need to here more
 
If it's rated for 90v *max* then you don't want a 90v battery, because that would charge to well above it's max and damage the controller.

You should probably stick to the 72v battery that charges to 84v to be sure of staying well below it's limitations.
 
Ok I appreciate that. I guess my real problem is I need more amps and capacity to feed this QS273 hub motor, I have the max size I can fit in the frame and the battery weighs 50lbs. Maybe the cutoff for my current battery is around 200a (300a peak) and that needs to be higher for high amp draw of the motor.
 
Is the BMS hitting a current limit or an LVC? Do you know that you're actually drawing 200 amps?
 
Is the BMS hitting a current limit or an LVC? Do you know that you're actually drawing 200 amps?
That's a good point, you are probably right, it could be LVC, it dips down to 69v, honestly when I'm into the throttle on a hill and the BMS trips and I'm dead in the water, I'm not looking at the screen to see what the heck happened or how low the volts dropped. I'm sure there is a log. Its just frustrating, not being able to get a battery that can hold up to more than 12 miles of hills and don't think of using full throttle, maybe that's just as good as it going to get without carrying 100 lbs worth of battery capacity.
 
One of these modules might do your power requirements; two of them would pretty much fulfill your capacity spec. Not light, not a terribly convenient shape, but relatively cost effective with excellent packaging.

 
Ok I appreciate that. I guess my real problem is I need more amps and capacity to feed this QS273 hub motor, I have the max size I can fit in the frame and the battery weighs 50lbs. Maybe the cutoff for my current battery is around 200a (300a peak) and that needs to be higher for high amp draw of the motor.

This is why in most cases the QS205 is all you need. Unless you’re pushing like 400 DC amps the QS273 is just too heavy. With the QS205 you have much better weight to horsepower ratio. But that’s beside the fact now since you have the larger QS 273. It’s still a great motor, but it requires a lot of battery.
 
This is why in most cases the QS205 is all you need. Unless you’re pushing like 400 DC amps the QS273 is just too heavy. With the QS205 you have much better weight to horsepower ratio. But that’s beside the fact now since you have the larger QS 273. It’s still a great motor, but it requires a lot of battery.
I appreciate that honesty, yeah I feel like the QS273 would have been better in a sport bike conversion with 100lb battery. Oh well you know it gets me to and from work up really steep hills 6 miles round trip and then need to charge. It my not be worth spending anymore money on a battery that probably won't change the range much. Thanks everyone for their input! I will consider the case closed.
 
When you are pushing 200A (16kW) through your controller @ 80V you are talking about having 20+ horsepower on a light weight bike. I don't feel this is safe with a standard mtn bike. But to each his own. :mrgreen:
Who said it was a Mtb? Not sure what you are speaking to, a QS273 won't even fit axle width 150mm or the 12mm axle thickness of a bicycle drop out. You can see my build in my other posts. It has motorcycle wheels and very sturdy other steel parts.
 
That's a good point, you are probably right, it could be LVC, it dips down to 69v, honestly when I'm into the throttle on a hill and the BMS trips and I'm dead in the water, I'm not looking at the screen to see what the heck happened or how low the volts dropped. I'm sure there is a log. Its just frustrating, not being able to get a battery that can hold up to more than 12 miles of hills and don't think of using full throttle, maybe that's just as good as it going to get without carrying 100 lbs worth of battery capacity.

Yeah, it sounds like you hit the low-voltage Cut off. I think you have a decent battery pack is I remember looking at those batteries before. That being said you shouldn’t be getting that much voltage sag unless there’s something wrong. Or if they’re cheap cells, which I don’t think they are from the company. Do you know what type of cells you have?

Also, I know I mentioned the QS205 earlier but it’s something to consider and you could get a higher winding which is going to help you climb the hills better and run more efficient while doing so. You probably have the 3T winding? It seems to be the default.

You need a QS205 5T or if you don’t care about too much, TopSpeed get the 6T. You’ll get better range because you won’t pull as many amps going up the hills. You would drop 20 pounds in the rear wheel so that also helps with pulling less amps under load, which equals more range. But yeah, it’s just a suggestion. I think smaller motor would fix the range issue. Also, what are your settings on your controller? I know you mentioned the BMS limits, but what are the controller settings? If you could turn the DC amps down that would help with range but then again with that heavy motor you probably need it.
 
Who said it was a Mtb? Not sure what you are speaking to, a QS273 won't even fit axle width 150mm or the 12mm axle thickness of a bicycle drop out. You can see my build in my other posts. It has motorcycle wheels and very sturdy other steel parts.
Well what else was I supposed to think. After all this is the ebike section. Maybe you should have posted in the emotorcycle section instead? I was wondering how you were going to put a big oversized motor in a bicycle frame.
 
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