a123's for $12 each

Knuckles

10 kW
Joined
May 2, 2008
Messages
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Location
Wrong Island, NY
FYI all,

So I just received 48 brand new (virgin) a123 (26650) M1's for $600 (included shipping right to my door). Stepped out in my underwear to get them.
12 of these bats fit perfect in each fork of my Nirve chopper. 12x3.3V=39.6V nominal per fork! x2=79.2V.
I use a 3 to 5 ratio a123 cells to NiMH cells so 48-a123's cells mate with (parallel with) 60-NiMH cells.
The guy has unlimited supply (sell for $15 ea on ebay plus shipping extra) so 48 for $600 total pretty good deal.

Beats dissecting all those 36V DeWalt packs!
 
Correction! 24 - a123's mate with 60 - NiMH cells. Opps My bad. Also I guess $600 / 48 = $12.50 each so I should have said "a123's for $12.50 each".

Here is my math.
NiMH: 60 x 1.41V = 84.6V (req'd for charge)
a123: 24 x 3.6V = 86.4V (req'd for charge)

NiMH: 60 x 1.2V = 72.0V (nominal)
a123: 24 x 3.3V = 79.2V (nominal)

a123 under 30 amp draw more like 24 x 3.0V = 72.0V so I figure a 3 to 5 ratio best round numbers to mate the different packs in parallel.
 
My brain is going. I meant 2 to 5 ratio. 2 a123 for every 5 NiMH cells.
 
Nice one. Who was the seller?
 
sales@purehobby.com
 
mmmmm, wonderin the same as me joz? :)
nice price - how did you find the guy sorry?


cheers


D
 
When I bought my DeWalt packs a while ago (from two different sellers), I paid, including shipping, $1922 for 18 unopened factory-packaged packs (180 cells) which is a hair over $11 per cell. And that was the cheapest I could find of unopened packs. So $12 per cell is good too, especially if demand has risen now. And my original sellers no longer sell the packs; I just checked.
 
Yes ... Finding a123's is getting harder and the DeWalt 10 cell packs are selling for over $125 + shipping on ebay.

There is also a lawsuit with MIT and Texas over a123 patent rights so anything may happen.

Robert at purehobby will only sell 48 at $600. I tried to do 24 for $310 and he said no. Tried 24 for $320 and he said no. So the magic number is 48 for $600 (includes Priority Mail shipping). Real fast shipping btw. I also asked his permission to post this thread and he was stoked!

These are the wacky cells where the button top is negative and the can is positive.

WOW! I guess these are those “Racing Cells” I heard of. Hey whatever … 80 amps is 80 amps! I guess this is real high tech stuff.

-Cheers
 
Hey knucles,
What's the link where you bought the A123's from. A what the heck are you charging them with? Any BMS to protect your investment?
A few members were working on BMS's but it got pretty complicated when deciding or finalizing the PCB. It's a lot easier to do with a controller that's made by e-crazyman eh>
 
Knuckles said:
WOW! I guess these are those “Racing Cells” I heard of. Hey whatever … 80 amps is 80 amps! I guess this is real high tech stuff.

-Cheers

Yep ... these are the cells that are capable of detonating a motor if allowed to do so by a souped-up controller. Take any rings of your fingers while handling a battery made up of A123 cells ... it can weld that ring to the batt while you are wearing it.

They can handle any hub motor you put them on, and can be recharged very quickly ... much faster than the usual 2A chargers out there are capable of.

http://www.tppacks.com/proddetail.asp?prod=EBKE%2Dy%2DDual%2DTP%2D210V%2BCharger
 
tron said:
Hey knucles,
What's the link where you bought the A123's from. A what the heck are you charging them with? Any BMS to protect your investment?
A few members were working on BMS's but it got pretty complicated when deciding or finalizing the PCB. It's a lot easier to do with a controller that's made by e-crazyman eh>

Just contact Robert by email but the site is http://www.purehobby.com.

As far as charging the a123's goes ... well if I tell you guys you will yell at me! I'm an engineer and I like to try to destroy stuff and do things the wrong way (think outside the box). Believe me the nickname Knuckles fits somehow. But here is a quick glimpse of my warped thinking ...

1) Don't care about balancing (F it).
2) 3.6V x 12 = 43.2V. And a 36V 2.5 amp (crazy) charger max charge is 44V and floats at 42V.
3) Plug it into a 12s pack and walk away!

easy peasy!
 
Get a single 3.8V charger.

When the pack starts losing capacity due to balance issues, you can break it up, and individually hit the problem cells to rehabilitate them.
 
bada bing! PS I was inspired by this guy ... http://www.slkelectronics.com/DeWalt/index.htm

Seems to me an a123 pack can be charged using a standard SLA algorithm. but 12 cells = 36V Not 10 like DeWalt likes to say.

Still trying to kill my girlfriend, however, so charging a123's this way may be the answer. (I already failed once - she survived - but my NiMH charge method now works great).

But that is a story for another thread!
 
Knuckles said:
tron said:
Hey knucles,
What's the link where you bought the A123's from. A what the heck are you charging them with? Any BMS to protect your investment?
A few members were working on BMS's but it got pretty complicated when deciding or finalizing the PCB. It's a lot easier to do with a controller that's made by e-crazyman eh>

Just contact Robert by email but the site is http://www.purehobby.com.

As far as charging the a123's goes ... well if I tell you guys you will yell at me! I'm an engineer and I like to try to destroy stuff and do things the wrong way (think outside the box). Believe me the nickname Knuckles fits somehow. But here is a quick glimpse of my warped thinking ...

1) Don't care about balancing (F it).
2) 3.6V x 12 = 43.2V. And a 36V 2.5 amp (crazy) charger max charge is 44V and floats at 42V.
3) Plug it into a 12s pack and walk away!

easy peasy!

I'm not an engineer, but I do think you need to balance every once in a while. I use 2 Bantam balancers, to balance my 10 cell A123 sub packs. If the cells get too far out of whack, you could fry a cell or run one down too far if there is too great a variance between cells. I use a couple smart chargers that terminate the charge at 38.5 volts and each one charges 4 10s packs in parallel. I also have a mastech HY5020 that is CC/CV and I set it for 36.5 volt shut off. This power supply will bulk charge all 8 subpacks at once and I sset it at 10 amps - cause I am not in a big hurry. After about 12 cycles, I noticed, things start going south. On one pack I noticed a .5 volt difference between the best and worst cell. I did not check all of the packs. There was no need after seeing this. Time to take action.

I really thought the cells would stay pretty close, especially in the individual sub packs, but they did not. For some reason, these cells need some help to stay close enough together to suit my tastes. It only takes about an hour to balance 8 sub packs with the 2 Bantams. I got these due to a post in here from Microbatman, because I noticed these drain type balancers, would each put a 500ma load on a pack- not bad! Interestingly, each subpack took a different amount of time to balance. Some went quick, seemed like a couple 3 minutes, while others took longer- much longer! :shock: Including the one I checked with my voltmeter. So, this tells me they were all over the board on voltage.

Yet, if you compared 1 40 cell parallel string with a voltmeter, to the other, prior to balancing, they were within 1 tenth of one volt.

I did this for the first time this weekend, because I felt the pack performace was changing- getting less range before voltage began to taper off. I watched a movie on my TV while I did it. so it was not a lot of trouble. I can bring my entire pack inside the house to do it, as it only weighs 17 pounds. An advantage of LifePo4. :)

"It seems" to have really re-juvenated the 10s4p pack as I rode it around quite a bit Sunday. But this is just my gut observation of a before and after using my Cycle Analyst.

I must say though, that I felt the same as you at first, that balancing was not that important. After all, the Dewalt chargers got a pretty bad rap that they didn't balance, yet came with a 3 year warranty! How important could it be? I said to myself. I am beginning to think otherwise now. The Dewalt tool made use of the built in BMS on the Dewalt pack and would shut a tool down "probably" in time. In my ebike- I have 80 cells and no BMS. I think I could pull one down too far. Time will tell. At any rate, balancing is easy and quick - if you make up your packs with balancing leads, which I fortunatly did. So, in hindsight, I guess i was a bit paranoid about it to begin with.
 
Sound practical advice. Thanks.
 
Dewalt got a lot of those battery packs back because they didn't balance the cells properly ... and a bunch of stores refuse to carry Dewalt 36V tools because of this issue.

You don't need an expensive balancer ... just get a single 3.6V charger from voltfreaks or elsewhere, put aligator clips on it and use it to fully charge one bank of parallel cells, one bank each week, in rotation.

Completely topped off > balancing

Balancing is used to prevent unbalanced cells from going low by being masked by the good cells. If you hammer each bank of parallel cells periodically, this is no longer an issue.

Another option is the one I chose ... buy big box of several single chargers, tape them into power strips, make a custom molex connector for your pack and chargers, and just individually charge them all at once.
 
how do u like them apples. my pack is the same set up. 17 lbs, no bms, 90 cells and i monitor the whole pack by watching 1 cell which is the weakest cell in the pack . but im going to replace for a good cell so now i will have to locate the next weakest cell and just go with that
 
kbarrett said:
If you hammer each bank of parallel cells periodically, this is no longer an issue.

I built a relay setup that will toggle a pack between s & p, I use it as a regen switch. Switch between 72V to 12V on the fly and the controller brakes the motor (and balances the cells). Cumbersome but it does work nicely. On the shelf for now but I made an ACAD dwg of the circuitry. Used many 20 amp DPDT relays.
 
Bats Bats Bats (and more Bats) ... BMS?
 

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Maybe I am missing something here ... Can these be had for $6.00 each?

http://www.alibaba.com/product-free/100362664/Lifepo4_Battery_26650.html

An a123 cell is 3.3V nominal and 2300 mah (my cost $12.50 per cell).

-Bob
 
Those are not A123s. There are many LiFePO4 batteries that are cheaper than A123, but they have a much lower maximum charge/discharge rate and very likely a shorter lifespan. There may be other problems with them too; you never know without reliable third-party testing. The A123s have been tested by others many times, always with good results.

I wouldn't buy a cheaper LiFePO4 battery unless either it's a brand that's undergone thorough testing or it's being sold by someone with a good QC reputation. Here I'm thinking of ebikes.ca; they test everything thoroughly.
 
The cells (white cardboard) are a123 M1 racing cells. Says "a123" right on the bat. "a123 SYSTEM" is also stamped into the aluminum can under the insulating cardboard wrap.
Same as in this vid.
[youtube]vkDgoXikI_8[/youtube]
 
Knuckles,

So, Are you saying the cells in your post with the Alibaba link are A123s? The link says they are "HPB" brand. I don't see anything that says they are A123s. Am I missing something here? I think your ALIBABA link post is the one that CGameProgrammer was referring to as not looking like A123.
 
Larry said:
Knuckles,

So, Are you saying the cells in your post with the Alibaba link are A123s? The link says they are "HPB" brand. I don't see anything that says they are A123s. Am I missing something here? I think your ALIBABA link post is the one that CGameProgrammer was referring to as not looking like A123.
No! Of course not. I am saying the ones in my pic are a123. a123 is a brand name and a unique 'nano' chemistry. They are the best but list for $15 per cell. A cheap Chinese LiFePO4 (alibaba link) for $6.00 per cell will never be equal to an a123 but it appears they are getting closer and closer to approaching a123 performance. But $6 verses $15 per 26650-size cell is significant and may be worth investigating.

Didn't mean to cause so much confusion here.
 
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