crusoe
100 W
Hey adam, just re-read your thread again. After having finally finished my bike days ago, I too am noticing black residue all over my rear disk (none on front). Maybe time for a new set of pads?
Adam's Norco A-Line 2009 with HS3540
- Thread starter adam333
- Start date
adam333
1 kW
crusoe said:
I solved my problem. I bought a Shimano 8" disc that dont have those "fancy wave" on the outer diameter. And used a new pad at the rear. Since then, the disc stay clean and no more noise.
adam333
1 kW
some update on this project...
I have updated the page 1 with all the data I collected so far as well as all the meaningful pictures.
After 1000km done on the bike, I changed the tire and took a few shot at the dropout to make sure it was not cracked or geting damaged:
So far so good, no sign of fatigue.
I also changed my led lamp holder for a taller version. This way, they now clear the box. Those magic-shine leds are very bright on the max intensity setting.
The mud is an issue on a DH bike, mainly if you want to reach your workplace and stay clean.
I made an adapter in delrin that fit the pocket in the rear frame and added a fender that help at least to keep the rear chuck and my pants clean:
Since the Seahorse box is waterproof and there is limited air flow inside, I was worried about the battery temperature inside the box.
I designed and added a holder + temperature sensor to monitor it while running. ( temperature sensor is inside, near the top of the box )
After several rides under hot and sunny days, the internal temperature never reached 40 deg C.
I also adapted the GPS holder on top of the box:
Bolted from inside the box, (sorry about the muddy picture )
Temp sensor + GPS in place:
I bought a 5 led rear reflector that have a vibration sensor + a light sensor.
This one will activate by himself when its dark outside and stop after 4 min of "no vibration" activity.
Since no useful bracket came with it, I decided to make a decent one custom fit to my rear fender:
Here is the current look after those modifications:
So far, I did 1800 km ( 1125 miles ) on this build, and the average charging cost is 0.20$ / 100km ( 60 miles )
I really enjoy this bike.
I have updated the page 1 with all the data I collected so far as well as all the meaningful pictures.
After 1000km done on the bike, I changed the tire and took a few shot at the dropout to make sure it was not cracked or geting damaged:
So far so good, no sign of fatigue.
I also changed my led lamp holder for a taller version. This way, they now clear the box. Those magic-shine leds are very bright on the max intensity setting.
The mud is an issue on a DH bike, mainly if you want to reach your workplace and stay clean.
I made an adapter in delrin that fit the pocket in the rear frame and added a fender that help at least to keep the rear chuck and my pants clean:
Since the Seahorse box is waterproof and there is limited air flow inside, I was worried about the battery temperature inside the box.
I designed and added a holder + temperature sensor to monitor it while running. ( temperature sensor is inside, near the top of the box )
After several rides under hot and sunny days, the internal temperature never reached 40 deg C.
I also adapted the GPS holder on top of the box:
Bolted from inside the box, (sorry about the muddy picture )
Temp sensor + GPS in place:
I bought a 5 led rear reflector that have a vibration sensor + a light sensor.
This one will activate by himself when its dark outside and stop after 4 min of "no vibration" activity.
Since no useful bracket came with it, I decided to make a decent one custom fit to my rear fender:
Here is the current look after those modifications:
So far, I did 1800 km ( 1125 miles ) on this build, and the average charging cost is 0.20$ / 100km ( 60 miles )
I really enjoy this bike.
crusoe
100 W
Looks great! Can you post the URL to your photos? They tend to get cut off if you use
adam333
1 kW
crusoe said:
oatnet
1 MW
Great build Adam, I am glad it is working out for you. You do great work with connectors etc - you have me thinking about getting a micro mill so I can make plastic parts too!
-JD
-JD
beast775
100 kW
excellent build!
etard
100 kW
Well Done Adam! I think others would agree with me... 8)
http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2012/06/29/converting-a-norco-a-line-bicycle-to-electric-power/
http://blog.cnccookbook.com/2012/06/29/converting-a-norco-a-line-bicycle-to-electric-power/
Garrick_s
100 W
Agreed, very nice indeed.
adam333
1 kW
Thanks for the good words guys.
4800 km done so far on this bike this summer and I never had any serious issues.
I didnt work much on the bike lately, but my crusade against mud is still ongoing...
I scanned the front fork on the 3 D scanner as well as the "THE mudguard" I bought from Ebay.
I then modelised a strong ABS adaptor plate to secure the fender in place.
With this methode, the fit between pieces is perfect and there is no movement at all.
My next challenge is to increase the length of the rear fender
4800 km done so far on this bike this summer and I never had any serious issues.
I didnt work much on the bike lately, but my crusade against mud is still ongoing...
I scanned the front fork on the 3 D scanner as well as the "THE mudguard" I bought from Ebay.
I then modelised a strong ABS adaptor plate to secure the fender in place.
With this methode, the fit between pieces is perfect and there is no movement at all.
My next challenge is to increase the length of the rear fender
shorza
10 kW
Great work. I'm sure the 3D scanner really helps.
I have a very similar setup as yours but with 18 hardcase packs in my pelican (24s 3p).
My rear wheel seems to 'bounce' around some corners and i fear it's because of the amount of weight on the front. Are you getting anything like that?
I have a very similar setup as yours but with 18 hardcase packs in my pelican (24s 3p).
My rear wheel seems to 'bounce' around some corners and i fear it's because of the amount of weight on the front. Are you getting anything like that?
oatnet
1 MW
shorza said:
I haven't experienced this phenomenon on any of my front-pack builds, but I have experienced bounciness when the rear-shock rebound was cranked up too high, and running a heavy hubbie.
Adam, you keep coming up with some trick kit, very nice. What does your 3d scanner look like, is it a home-brew David-laserscanner? Are you using makerbot, or milling these parts?
-JD
shorza
10 kW
Come to think of it, I reckon that's exactly what it is. Thank you.
adam333
1 kW
shorza said:
No bouncing at all, I adjusted the rebound as describe in the manual owner and even with the extra 55 pounds, it is prety stable.
When I lift the bike with one hand, the center of mass is around the yellow arrow, what about yours?
oatnet said:
I have access to a brand new 3 D scaner Romer Arm at work (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DikzV9toO28). I could have made those pieces on the CNC at home, but this time, I went with the easy solution and printed em on the 3D printer at work.
shorza
10 kW
adam333 said:shorza said:
No bouncing at all, I adjusted the rebound as describe in the manual owner and even with the extra 55 pounds, it is prety stable.
When I lift the bike with one hand, the center of mass is around the yellow arrow, what about yours?
I checked mine today and it's pretty much the same as where yours is.
I haven't weighed my battery pack, i think it would be heavier than yours, but I also have the heavier H4060 motor to counter balance.
I should really start a build thread soon.
cwah
100 MW
adam333 said:Thanks for the good words guys.
4800 km done so far on this bike this summer and I never had any serious issues.
I didnt work much on the bike lately, but my crusade against mud is still ongoing...
I scanned the front fork on the 3 D scanner as well as the "THE mudguard" I bought from Ebay.
I then modelised a strong ABS adaptor plate to secure the fender in place.
With this methode, the fit between pieces is perfect and there is no movement at all.
My next chalenge is to increase the length of the rear fender
So niiiiice!!
I want a 3D scanner too. Where can I get one at a good price?
I'm planning to get a CNC router in order to get my own parts:
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/PRO-CNC-3040Z-ROUTER-ENGRAVER-MACHINE-DRILLING-MILLING-TOP-QUALITY-m5-/280760625548?pt=UK_BOI_Metalworking_Milling_Welding_Metalworking_Supplies_ET&hash=item415ea3298c&_uhb=1#ht_23956wt_1021
If I also have a 3D scanner I will try to copy you :lol:
oatnet
1 MW
cwah said:
What do you intend to make parts out of? Those cheepo cnc's are OK on plastic/wood/PCB etc, but don't have the power or rigidity to do a good job on metal.
For 3d imaging, I've been pondering building a 3d David LaserScanner setup myself:
http://www.david-laserscanner.com/
-JD
cwah
100 MW
I'm planning to do bike part on it such as battery case, clamp, holders, trailer part...
But I'll mill aluminium only as still would put the machine on its knee.
Here's a video of the tool machining aluminium:
[youtube]H0aQS16a9CM[/youtube]
So it can still do (soft) metal such as aluminium.
And torque arm can even be made of aluminium so it seems to be a good tool!
But I'll mill aluminium only as still would put the machine on its knee.
Here's a video of the tool machining aluminium:
[youtube]H0aQS16a9CM[/youtube]
So it can still do (soft) metal such as aluminium.
And torque arm can even be made of aluminium so it seems to be a good tool!
sn0wchyld
100 kW
cwah said:
be aware, thats the much larger 6040 machine. the 3020 will still manage the softer aluminum alloys, but at MUCH lower speeds/depths. cutting something the size of a dropout torque arm would take many hours. I've seen a couple of reviews too which state that you don't get the entire 30X20cm's, more like 27 by 16 ish. I'm not saying don't get one, I'm tempted myself... just be aware, they're cheap for a reason.
cwah
100 MW
I've shown the 6040 because I'm going to get the 3040Z.
It's basically a smaller version of the 6040. It uses the same motor but just has a smaller table. Apparently it can even cut steel (light cut) but I have to find harder knives and I don't know where :lol:
It's basically a smaller version of the 6040. It uses the same motor but just has a smaller table. Apparently it can even cut steel (light cut) but I have to find harder knives and I don't know where :lol:
adam333
1 kW
oatnet said:
The 3D David laserScanner is pretty cool and affordable. I never saw that one before.
I also agree, small machine rigidity is always an issue when you work on hard material. it take an eternity to produce the piece.
adam333
1 kW
The basket at the front of the bike is just too useful, It will stay there permanently.
When the basket is full, the led lamp are no longer useful, so a relocation was needed.
They will go at the bottom instead.
I also made an attempt to improve the rear fender as it don't stop the mud efficiently.
I will have to paint the fender for the 2 pieces to match.
When the basket is full, the led lamp are no longer useful, so a relocation was needed.
They will go at the bottom instead.
I also made an attempt to improve the rear fender as it don't stop the mud efficiently.
I will have to paint the fender for the 2 pieces to match.
adam333
1 kW
A-Line DH Kickstand:
Alu 6061-T6 black painted designed pieces with a modified 10$ kickstand.
I am also trying the Freeload rack to hold my Mudguard.
It's not as nice, but now the mudguard is actually stopping the mud...
Alu 6061-T6 black painted designed pieces with a modified 10$ kickstand.
I am also trying the Freeload rack to hold my Mudguard.
It's not as nice, but now the mudguard is actually stopping the mud...
MattyCiii
100 kW
Thanks Adam.
Always great to see your work.
Would you consider making me a kickstand mount - name your price, PM me if interested... Though I know doing it once for yourself is a passion, doing it a second time for commission is a chore.
Either way the pix are an inspiration. You have an eye for quality and skills that approach perfection.
Always great to see your work.
Would you consider making me a kickstand mount - name your price, PM me if interested... Though I know doing it once for yourself is a passion, doing it a second time for commission is a chore.
Either way the pix are an inspiration. You have an eye for quality and skills that approach perfection.
