Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread

[Longshot]

I pulled apart the controller that had a short with my old MXUS motor and I get 4ohms at R113. So I put it back together and plugged it into the cromotor that's on the bike at the moment. The first thing I noticed was that when I hooked up a light bulb to the controller to charge the caps before plugging it in, the bulb lit up and then went out. Removing the leads and reattaching the bulb did not make it light up again. Plugging the battery in did not make the usual spark.

When I did Autodetect, the motor was cogging so I tried switching around the phase wires and it still cogs. The motor spins freely otherwise plugged in with power or not. Autodetect was successful and the motor goes but it's not smooth. The controller seemed a little warmer than usual but maybe not.

This controller is number #2046. I have 2 and one came with the older type screen with the green markings. They might be mixed up and probably have different firmware versions.

There are no obvious problems with the controller as far as I can see. Ill try to fine tune the motor settings. Maybe that's all it is.

 

[icherouveim]

I pulled apart the controller that had a short with my old MXUS motor and I get 4ohms at R113. So I put it back together and plugged it into the cromotor that's on the bike at the moment. The first thing I noticed was that when I hooked up a light bulb to the controller to charge the caps before plugging it in, the bulb lit up and then went out. Removing the leads and reattaching the bulb did not make it light up again. Plugging the battery in did not make the usual spark.

When I did Autodetect, the motor was cogging so I tried switching around the phase wires and it still cogs. The motor spins freely otherwise plugged in with power or not. Autodetect was successful and the motor goes but it's not smooth. The controller seemed a little warmer than usual but maybe not.

This controller is number #2046. I have 2 and one came with the older type screen with the green markings. They might be mixed up and probably have different firmware versions.

There are no obvious problems with the controller as far as I can see. Ill try to fine tune the motor settings. Maybe that's all it is.

Yes right, fine tuning is very important otherwise controller & motor will get warm, the performance is not good and smooth.
Sometimes auto detect doesn't work well. There are some YouTube videos from Dr. Bass that show how you fine tune the controller. You touch the bike during the rotation of the motor and you feel the vibrations.

 

[jjluzuld]

I have a question about charging. I'm taking the bike on a trip and I want to be able to charge the bike as fast as possible in the middle of nowhere. Can I hook up a DC-DC converter to 5s car batteries and charge at 70A with 70A charge coil? Is there anything I should watch out for besides my bike battery's max charge rate?

Thanks

There you go...

 

[Longshot]

Sorry guys but I'm trying to source the SMD at R83 for the motor temp. I get that it's a 15k ohm 1% EIA-96 resistor. I measured it at 1.85mm X 1mm to try and figure out it's wattage but that doesn't correspond to any size I can find. Is it a 0805 size which would be 0.100 watts?

 

[litespeed]

The post of shame........so this morning I plugged in my power supply and hooked up to my MaxE......started the charge program....came back 5-10 mins later and the screen was off! Oh dear ebike lords do not let it be! The controller and charge cord ball were slightly warm like normal.

Nothing works so I pull the side covers and the breaker is blown. Try to reset and instantly blows again. Luckily 20s15p 30Q battery is all good. So I forget the testing procedure with the ole digital meter......

When using the ohmes meter it shows a dead short between the positive and negative inputs to the controller. The three phase wires show 180-178-0 aka dead short whether measuring from the positive or negative inputs. Phase to phase all show dead shorts.

What else should I measure or do I just need to take it apart?

Thanks for any help you can offer.

Tom

 

[icherouveim]

From what you say I think your only option is to take it apart..
were you fast charging?
The most of the users with similar symptoms were charging with more than 1000W!

 

[litespeed]

I charge....or charged at 10 amps only because the plastic Speak-on connectors got hot above that.

Tom

 

[icherouveim]

I charge....or charged at 10 amps only because the plastic Speak-on connectors got hot above that.

Tom

10 amps wasn't so bad! it's sounds normal!
so it seems it was time for the controller to go.

 

[Longshot]

The 18C temp resistor size is 0603 for anyone that needs to know in the future

 

[inedible]

From what you say I think your only option is to take it apart..
were you fast charging?
The most of the users with similar symptoms were charging with more than 1000W!

You say that as if 1000W is a lot. Why even make a 70A coil if you can't charge anywhere near that amperage? With a 74v battery, 1000W is only 12A.

I figure I can drive around pulling 70A all day just fine. The wires and FETs should be able to handle the same amount in reverse, no?

 

[ridethelightning]

+1 I charge at 1700w (eaton maxed out) for a couple of years now, several max-e controller, no problems.
i dont think the charge current is to blame, more likely a random component failure...

 

[Longshot]

Replacing that resistor didn't fix the temp problem. I don't even know if that resistor was bad because apparently my Milwaukee multimeter doesn't read the ohms on these resistors. When I tested the new resistors with it I got no reading. I had to switch meters. I'm so bummed. The controller was literally band new and unused. I tried resetting everything and still no go. Does anyone have any other leads on how to fix this?

 

[Justas]

Replacing that resistor didn't fix the temp problem. I don't even know if that resistor was bad because apparently my Milwaukee multimeter doesn't read the ohms on these resistors. When I tested the new resistors with it I got no reading. I had to switch meters. I'm so bummed. The controller was literally band new and unused. I tried resetting everything and still no go. Does anyone have any other leads on how to fix this?

Temp sensor is just a resistor which changes resistence depending on temp. You can messure resistence between battery negative and the resistor you replaced. Try on both sides of resistor. It should be around 1kohm in ambient temp on KTY-* sensors.

 

[Longshot]

Please reread my last few posts about what my problem is and why I replaced the resistor

 

[Justas]

Multimeter have to show something. Schematic for temp messuring should be quite simple: voltage divider with tempsensor on low side. R83 is in series with temp sensor. Are you sure it is 15kohm?

 

[icherouveim]

From what you say I think your only option is to take it apart..
were you fast charging?
The most of the users with similar symptoms were charging with more than 1000W!

You say that as if 1000W is a lot. Why even make a 70A coil if you can't charge anywhere near that amperage? With a 74v battery, 1000W is only 12A.

I figure I can drive around pulling 70A all day just fine. The wires and FETs should be able to handle the same amount in reverse, no?

hello,

Of course it is not exactly the same when you do this in reverse. Charging current is true continuous and also there is no air flow to cool down the whole system also there is one more important reason Ive read somewhere which I don't really remember because it was 2-3 years ago. The threat was saying that the major reason for adaptto failures is that many users were super charging the battery and the fets couldn't stand it. After this threat I charge with only 500-600W for the last two years.

 

[inedible]

Of course it is not exactly the same when you do this in reverse. Charging current is true continuous and also there is no air flow to cool down the whole system also there is one more important reason Ive read somewhere which I don't really remember because it was 2-3 years ago. The threat was saying that the major reason for adaptto failures is that many users were super charging the battery and the fets couldn't stand it. After this threat I charge with only 500-600W for the last two years.

Interesting. I just figure if they made a 40A coil, then came out with an upgraded 70A coil, then it ought to be safe to charge with at least 40A current. At 40A, even with just a 36V battery, that's 1680 watts.

I'd love to hear other people's opinions on this, since I'm currently charging at 1500W, and plan to start using 240V soon so I can bump that up to 3000W. My battery is nearly 5KWh, so charging at 500W would be a fairly big inconvenience.

 

[Longshot]

Multimeter have to show something. Schematic for temp messuring should be quite simple: voltage divider with tempsensor on low side. R83 is in series with temp sensor. Are you sure it is 15kohm?

Yes, it is an E96 marked 18C. I replaced it with a 0603 1% 1/10th watt. I reset multiple times and loaded firmware. No dice. It doesnt work with temp sensor disconnected. Doesn't work with no sensor set in the setup. I guess I've got a $1000 paperweight.

 

[Justas]

Yes, it is an E96 marked 18C. I replaced it with a 0603 1% 1/10th watt. I reset multiple times and loaded firmware. No dice. It doesnt work with temp sensor disconnected. Doesn't work with no sensor set in the setup. I guess I've got a $1000 paperweight.

Maybe you have problems with mosfet temperature measurement? What temp does it show in health monitor? Have you tried to change internal sensor type in settings?

 

[wojtek]

subs

 

[Offroader]

Need some advice.

I need a second charger to charge my 16s Sur-Ron battery. I don't feel like paying $120 for a charger that will only be used for a couple more months before I upgrade to a Max-E type charging setup.

My Max-E is currently hooked up to my other 72 volt e-bike and has the BMS connected.

If I disconnected my Max-E from the Qulbix 72v battery, and then plugged the main Positive and Negative battery wires into my Sur-ron battery, will I be able charge my Sur-Ron battery without issue.

One more important point, I will keep my Max-E BMS connected to my Qulbix 72 volt battery because it will be too difficult for me to disconnect the BMS as its in the frame with the battery.

Do you see any issues with charging my Sur-Ron 58 Volt battery like this through my Max-e? While leaving the BMS still connected to my Qulbix 20S battery?

Basically it will be an issue of the BMS. IS the BMS independent of the battery? Or is it somehow connected where I'll short out my Max-E if I have the BMS connected to a different battery than is the battery connected to the controller.

Please let me know what you guys think I am very desperate here.

 

[Offroader]

I'm going to give this a go. I think lack of responses means that nobody sees any issue with it and I'm not overlooking anything.


To make the question more simple, would anyone see any issue with having the max-e main battery wires connected to one battery, while having the BMS connected to a completely different battery at the same time?

 

[Justas]

It's hard to say because we need to see schematic to know how things are wired internally. In my opinion you are risking. You can't access bms connector to unplug it? If so disable it in menu, controller should power it off.

Sent from my SM-G960F using Tapatalk

 

[bigbore]

I'm going to give this a go. I think lack of responses means that nobody sees any issue with it and I'm not overlooking anything.


To make the question more simple, would anyone see any issue with having the max-e main battery wires connected to one battery, while having the BMS connected to a completely different battery at the same time?

...... Receipt for a disaster

Wy don't you try to play with some DC-DC converters? Recently I bought this cheap one to try it out and I was able to charge some LiPo 4S and 10S I have around.
https://it.aliexpress.com/item/1500-w-DC-DC-Step-up-Boost-Converter-10-60-v-a-12-90-v-30A/32856109301.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.3da24c4dd70IDj
I have powered the DC-DC converter with this 12V power supply that I have been using from many years with my iChargers 1010B https://www.ebay.it/itm/ALIMENTATORE-TRASFORMATORE-STABILIZZATO-SWITCH-TRIMMER-220V-12V-30A/260933111109

 

[Offroader]

Thanks. I Just need something temporary and quick until I get a controller for my Sur-Ron where I can charge through the controller.


I may just see if I can unplug the BMS without having to remove my battery, I left little slack in the BMS wire is the issue. Takes hours to get the pack out and back in on my bike.

But I can't see how the BMS could share current paths with the controller. You can hook up the BMS in many different ways. It has to be isolated? But who knows 100%.

If I can't unplug the BMS wire easily maybe I will try the DC-DC route.