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Adaptto Mini-E/Max-E Owner's Thread
- Thread starter GCinDC
- Start date
If it shows 4 bars at resting you have the wrong temp sensor selected , you need to go into u think its calibration, advanced and change it to something else, of its a cromotor the built in one is a n something it another 1k, just yet each one until something half normal appears, you may have to take it out for a run for something to appear .
If you go into throttle limits you should be able to see the bar moving , if not you have it wired wrong, I don't know if its a good idea to go swapping wires randomly in case you send power down the wrong wire, get a multimeter out and test the connections , if you set it to resistance you can work out what the wiper and ground is.
Is there anywhere you can change the temp from Fahrenheit to centergrade ?, I can see you can change the miles / km, but can't see anywhere for the temp. I got the temp up to 130 the other day and was crapping it as I thought it was in C , but if you go into the health monitor you can see its actually F, 130F is only 54C , which isn't overly warm at all.
Allex
100 MW
If you change from mph to kmph you temp will change as well
GCinDC
100 MW
recommended reading: Unofficial English User Guide - July 10, 2014 (PDF)
GCinDC
100 MW
a bit presumptuous if you ask me, assuming i want F if i also want mph, but there it is.
bitcom77
100 mW
alright got some questions after first ~1 hour long test ride
I am running 18s 24 Ah battery, miniE with RC9d firmware, TC100
I noticed the following things I'd like to work out:
- when charging is almost done, it seems to go into a cycle of -> charge current too low -> detecting charger -> charging -> charge current too low, is this normal?
- I set the BMS to balance at 4.15 and charge to 4.20, at the end of charging (with the cycling going on) it had a maximum V delta of 0.027 which I guess is not too bad at max, however even though it said balancing after over 2hrs, the delta V never went below 0.026, I did charge the same pack in pieces with a 4010 duo before and it supposedly got it balanced to 0.002 V (yeah right) pretty quickly, is this pretty much the expected accuracy or will it need much longer to balance due to the size of the pack, I did listen to the podcast where Andrey said that the drain current on purpose was set to be pretty low to reduce heat near the battery
- I set my boost limits to 65A battery and 130A phase and speed limit to 123, no acc limit, I almost never get even close to that mostly somewhere from 20-30A and it keeps jumping around, also on a hill I totally stalled out with only 5A, on one downhill it briefly went up to 50A. This isn't enough to go more than 25 mph or maybe 30. I did a bit of trouble shooting on the throttle settings but seems normal to me, no bad contacts etc, so my only guess is that I'm hitting some other limits, or that somehow the system reset didn't work or the autodetect didn't either, both controller and motor seemed to get quite hot after only a couple of miles, 150 F for controller and no idea on motor since somehow the 10k NTC isn't working, but hot to the touch. Is this pretty much the performance I can expect and I need to get the maxE or do I need to try to fiddle with the motor settings and maybe try to do a more through reset
anywho, thanks in advance if anyone knows anything
I am running 18s 24 Ah battery, miniE with RC9d firmware, TC100
I noticed the following things I'd like to work out:
- when charging is almost done, it seems to go into a cycle of -> charge current too low -> detecting charger -> charging -> charge current too low, is this normal?
- I set the BMS to balance at 4.15 and charge to 4.20, at the end of charging (with the cycling going on) it had a maximum V delta of 0.027 which I guess is not too bad at max, however even though it said balancing after over 2hrs, the delta V never went below 0.026, I did charge the same pack in pieces with a 4010 duo before and it supposedly got it balanced to 0.002 V (yeah right) pretty quickly, is this pretty much the expected accuracy or will it need much longer to balance due to the size of the pack, I did listen to the podcast where Andrey said that the drain current on purpose was set to be pretty low to reduce heat near the battery
- I set my boost limits to 65A battery and 130A phase and speed limit to 123, no acc limit, I almost never get even close to that mostly somewhere from 20-30A and it keeps jumping around, also on a hill I totally stalled out with only 5A, on one downhill it briefly went up to 50A. This isn't enough to go more than 25 mph or maybe 30. I did a bit of trouble shooting on the throttle settings but seems normal to me, no bad contacts etc, so my only guess is that I'm hitting some other limits, or that somehow the system reset didn't work or the autodetect didn't either, both controller and motor seemed to get quite hot after only a couple of miles, 150 F for controller and no idea on motor since somehow the 10k NTC isn't working, but hot to the touch. Is this pretty much the performance I can expect and I need to get the maxE or do I need to try to fiddle with the motor settings and maybe try to do a more through reset
anywho, thanks in advance if anyone knows anything
@ bitcom77
i guess it is because of wrong settings.
a few days ago i flashed to the newest firmware 9d and run autodetect. it showed "successful" and the motor settings were all looking about like i have expected them. after that i did balance the wheel and noticed a no load current of more than 10A
something must have gone wrong during autodetect. i did run it again and all was fine. it is very curious because the motor values in advanced menu were about the same again like before.
the top speed with the newest firmware seems to be a little lower but also a bit more efficient.
btw: i have swapped the thermistor from NTC10k to KTY83
i guess it is because of wrong settings.
a few days ago i flashed to the newest firmware 9d and run autodetect. it showed "successful" and the motor settings were all looking about like i have expected them. after that i did balance the wheel and noticed a no load current of more than 10A
something must have gone wrong during autodetect. i did run it again and all was fine. it is very curious because the motor values in advanced menu were about the same again like before.the top speed with the newest firmware seems to be a little lower but also a bit more efficient.
btw: i have swapped the thermistor from NTC10k to KTY83
Allex
100 MW
Bitcom your phase seems to be low. Increase it to 200-260. Now you should see a rapid increase in batt amps and motor stall should be gone.
bitcom77
100 mW
ah well that would make sense why on an uphill the battery current dropped so much
one more thing, I was charging at 36V limited to 38A (to not overload my house breakers) using the 70A coil and the capacitors got extremely hot
I'm not sure if it can actually take 70A at that voltage. So I might end up going with a higher voltage charger
one more thing, I was charging at 36V limited to 38A (to not overload my house breakers) using the 70A coil and the capacitors got extremely hot
I'm not sure if it can actually take 70A at that voltage. So I might end up going with a higher voltage charger
Larseren
10 mW
Can someone please help me with setting up the mini-e for my hub motor?
I start to wonder if my motor is incompatible with the mini-e.(It ran great before I swapped to the mini-e)
Here is a link to the kit I have taken the motor from: http://cnebikes.en.made-in-china.com/product/evVnETAlvUWb/China-60V-1500W-E-Bike-Hub-Motor-with.html
I'm currently on 16s 4p (16xHK 4S 20C hard case) and that worked well with the original controller from the kit.
Here is a pic from the inside of the motor that shows the hall placement, the picture is from the side that the spare halls are located but I have arrowed in where the hall slots are on the opposite side:
and one pic. of the motor internals:
I have replaced the 3 hall sensors with new ss411a from Honeywell and the phases/halls are rewired with fresh new wires.
The thing is that I can complete the autodetection cycle and get the successful message. The motor stutters a little forward and backward during the cycle but no complete rotations of the wheel.
When I navigate to the health monitor and look at the hall sequence it can go H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 for about 5-6 sequences and then start to throw a few random numbers and then go back into sequence again.
I can get the motor running but only with bad noise and high current draw, it will however spin up to 50 km/h in sensorless mode.
It seems like I'm having a timing or hall placement issue what do you think?
I start to wonder if my motor is incompatible with the mini-e.(It ran great before I swapped to the mini-e)
Here is a link to the kit I have taken the motor from: http://cnebikes.en.made-in-china.com/product/evVnETAlvUWb/China-60V-1500W-E-Bike-Hub-Motor-with.html
I'm currently on 16s 4p (16xHK 4S 20C hard case) and that worked well with the original controller from the kit.
Here is a pic from the inside of the motor that shows the hall placement, the picture is from the side that the spare halls are located but I have arrowed in where the hall slots are on the opposite side:
and one pic. of the motor internals:
I have replaced the 3 hall sensors with new ss411a from Honeywell and the phases/halls are rewired with fresh new wires.
The thing is that I can complete the autodetection cycle and get the successful message. The motor stutters a little forward and backward during the cycle but no complete rotations of the wheel.
When I navigate to the health monitor and look at the hall sequence it can go H1,H2,H3,H4,H5,H6 for about 5-6 sequences and then start to throw a few random numbers and then go back into sequence again.
I can get the motor running but only with bad noise and high current draw, it will however spin up to 50 km/h in sensorless mode.
It seems like I'm having a timing or hall placement issue what do you think?
drewjet
10 kW
I finally got my Max-E. I have it hooked up. Seams to be working for the most part. However, the throttle is kinda funny. it is very controlable from a dead stop. If I go to full throttle no problem. But if I back off to half throttle, the motor cuts out completly, then kicks in and out to maintain speed, instead of just running at a constant medium power.
Any ideas?
Any ideas?
Larseren said:
if you have really not seen a complete rotation during autodetect there must have gone something wrong.
you can measure with a normal voltmeter if the hall sensors in your motor are ok. just apply 5V and measure between ground and signal wires. the voltage should jump between about 0V to 5V when you twist the motor.
Larseren
10 mW
madin88 said:
The hall sensors and the wiring is brand new and the halls are tested with a multimeter(to eliminate halls as a source for failure) so everything is working.
I think that there is something with the placement or angle of the hall sensors because it is just the sequence that get messed up. In the health monitor screen there is a field for logic position of the hall and the sequence of the halls and there are as many switches as there are pole pairs in the motor.
madin88 said:xenodius said:
xenodius, do you remember what the speed limit was without field weakening (RC7 vs. a newer)?
i never tried RC7c because it has no support for NTC10k thermistor. In electrotransport.ru board they are saying RC7 firmware does put out more phase amps than the value set in power profiles. that would explain the better acceleration. as for the speed limit: 25% should be enough - except you want to do speed records down a steep hill. or not?
my suggestion: stay with the newest firmware you can get. As Allex mentioned you can improve acceleration a bit by changing the throttle limits or throttle curve
Without OVS, I can do 40-43mph loaded. With ovs 7 in the latest firmware, I can do 50mph (makes sense-- 25%) but I used to be able to do 63-68mph in RC8c (or rc8b? not sure). This translated into much better acceleration in the 35-50mph range. I never *need* to go faster than 50mph... =) I'm not really a speed demon but I'm a bit of an acceleration demon!
I think I'll let it be since it's probably better to have me limited =)
I have a welder and a garage now and I'm accumulating more tools so hopefully, this summer, I might be able to make my custom frame a reality-- and I think I may try running a Hubmonster with dual Max-E's. We'll see how that goes. I'll have to have a massive front end because I really really want to do a high-powered FWD-- I'm planning on geometry similar to a standard rear triangle with suspension, but my bearings will have to be huge to handle the torque. Long term, I'm shooting for low-maintenance. Tires and elastomer are all I plan to replace regularly... and electrons. I'll replace those too =)
The result will be a FWD, delta, over-seat-steer, short-wheelbase, leaning/narrow track, full-suspension, serial-hybrid transmission (no chain) fully-faired recumbent trike built to my anatomy with U-joint linkage for the steering-- this will facilitate two useful characteristics. First, it will make zero-point turns ergonomic; second, it will allow quick height-adjustment of the handlebars which, combined with a hinged back to my seat/chair and reinforced floor, will allow me to convert between aerodynamic hybrid recumbent and electric scooter. Between that, the leaning and corresponding narrow track... I should be set for high-speed rocketing and leisurely pedestrian-path maneuvering.
Brake
100 W
Yes! Do it!!!
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