Another Stealth bomber (clone) build

@j Bjork, thanks, I think the rear shock is either a 180 or 200mm. The rear shock is actually not bad, it's my front suspension that sucks.

Got some bashing in this weekend and had my first failure. I was hitting some jumps and drops, then it happened. After dropping off a hill, I felt and heard the rear wheel briefly rub the rear fender after landing. I immediately stopped to see the damage and found that the mounting bolt for the rear shock sheared off when I landed causing one of the mounting tabs to twist. There is also now a dent in the swingarm from the shock slamming into it. Going to see if I can find some of these bolts made out of stainless and get them both replaced. Also going to keep an eye on the swing arm to see if it needs reinforcing. Kind of tempted to rip the rear off and fix the bushing problem as well, having too much fun though. Below are some pics of this weekends outing.
 

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shortcircuit911 said:
Got some bashing in this weekend

Atleast someone e-rode :thumb:
I was out of the e-game :cry: I literally feel like a peasant, taking the bus, sitting on the train without my e-bike, actually walking around, what is walking anyways, used to fake pedaling and twisting the throttle.
 
Shortcircuit. Good to see you out on the bike,bummer about the bolt shearing off!! Did you have any play in the size of the bolt and the size of the hole in the frame shock mount? I know mine has about 1.5mm difference in the hole and the bolt. Ant play can be fatal for shearing bolts. Are the bolts marked up as 8.8 high tenstile? Hope you get it sorted soon. :thumb:
 
@markz lol I can relate. Hope you get back up and running soon.

@choppa there was probably some play. I had a spare bolt on another bike I have so I stole that temporarily. I was on McMaster yesterday and found some M8 shoulder bolts that are supposed to be the hardest they have and comparable to class 12.9 steel. Those should solve this problem, more on that soon.

With all the rain lately I might tear the bike down for a couple weeks and try to get all the little problems sorted. All the recent bashing has caused the star nut in the steering tube to walk axially, and I can see a potential crack forming on my swingarm (from bolt breaking/shock bending mounting tab), add fan, etc. The end result will be a better bike just in time for spring!
 
Well I finally had 2 hours alone at home so I decided to tear my bike apart to start fixing all the stuff that is bugging me. I started with the rear end because it's the highest priority and the most work. I started by hanging a hook from the ceiling to support the bike while I work on it. Pulled the wheel, battery, rear shock, and then swingarm. Measuring hole diameter on the mounting tabs for the shock and swingarm show that they were clearance drilled (over-sized) which would also contribute to the poor performance of the rear end.

The plan:
Since the top of the swingarm is wrecked IMO I'm going to remake some mounting tabs for the rear shock, weld them to an 1/8" plate, then weld that plate to the swingarm. The new tabs for the shock will be 8mm on the nose to accommodate the new shoulder screws I found on McMaster Carr.

Bushing:
I have also started drilling out the bushing in the main body (where the swingarm mounts) I'm going to get some bearings ordered this week and then I'll machine some bearing retainers,etc to get the swingarm to have as little play in it as possible. More on this soon.

Fan:
Lastly I want to get my arduino temp controlled fan system set up in the bike for testing. I have no idea where I'll put the fan just yet, may need to buy a smaller one.

Tire:
This thing really needs a knobby on the back, especially because I mainly ride off road. In turbo mode the bike can't put all the power down with out loosing traction which can suck if you're climbing a wet grassy hill. I haven't decided on a tire yet, going to start the search soon.


Shoulder screws (35mm):McMasterCarr Part # 92981A325

Happy to be back in building mode (although thrashing mode was fun too) More to come.
 

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Good to see you had some time to work on bike. It's a pain in ass pulling it all apart again when it's been up and running but good to get the things done that are bugging you.🤔 that shoulder bolt that broke doesn't look to impressive or strong,I hope the new ones do the job,I have just got bolts in mine that are partly threaded and I also had some bronze bushings machined up to take away the play with the shock mount hole being to big. How you getting on drilling out that rubber bushing from the frame? That's a bit of a task I know!😔 there should be a thin metal sleeve around the rubber that will come out to? I split it with an old screwdriver and just tapped it out. Then you should have a nice fit for the bearings to go in with a bit of luck,I put some locktite around mine just to be sure. Ive got the 19inch pirelli scorpions on mine and theres plenty of clearance width wise in the swinging arm. :bigthumb:
 
Cool build on a fun looking machine, what is the final weight, and what estimated speed/range do you have while "bashing" on it ?

I'm fairly new to ebikes, but have been "bashing" for quite awhile on my 29er MTB, and my Kawasaki KLR250, so I can appreciate a well built outfit.
 
I bought a 230mm shock, it is on the long side.. I guess I will see how it feels when I can ride the bike.

Why those hollow shoulder screws? I got some like the one you broke with my frame, but I didn´t use them. I just used regular m8 with nyloc nuts. It seems like no problem to tight them so the inner tube in the bushings is held in place, something I don´t think I could have done with the hollow ones.
 
@choppa still drilling that damn thing out lol. Mine has a 2 piece steel insert in the rubber rather than a solid piece, so I got one out. Hope to get this done and bearings ordered this week. Was planning on using some loctite but may also machine bearing retainers, we'll see. Thanks for the tire recommendation!

@ckelly I haven't officially weighed it yet, but I'd put it at 100-110 lbs. Top speed with zero flux weakening is 53 mph, range I haven't tested either. I'd put it at 15-25 miles range (everybody bashes differently). It's held up pretty well to all the thrashing I've been doing. Just getting rid of the (hopefully) last of the trash parts on the bike, a lot of it is just junk parts I got with the frame when I ordered it. If you have a klr then you'd enjoy one of these. I grew up on dirtbikes so this is my go to over my cr.

@bjork wow 230mm, that would be some nice travel. How tall are you/weight? The shoulder screws are actually solid steel that is equivalent to class 12.9 steel so they'll be much stronger than the junk that came with the shocks.

Still drilling out that damn bushing, only have short periods of time to work on the bike so progress is slow. Going to get the steel for the swingarm and shock mount tabs today. Hope to start making those parts this week. Then I'll have to lug the swingarm on the train to SF to weld it. Lots of work to do and parts to make/order, might be down for more than a couple weeks :(
 
Yeah it's a pain in ass to drill that rubber out!! Took me ages!! Keep at it though you will get there!!😀😀 yes I think if I remember mine had a 2 piece spacer moulded in the rubber that the bolt goes through. There was also a thin metal sleeve that was around the outside of the rubber that the rubber bushing must be moulded in and then the whole bushing pressed into the frame? When I eventually drilled...sawed...and dug out all the rubber this outer metal sleeve still stayed in the frame,so I used an old flat blade screwdriver to split it and tap it out. I'm pretty sure if you left that bit in then the bearings would be to tight a fit to press into the frame? If any of that makes sense!!??😀👍
 
ElectricGod said:
harmonist said:
What would recommend, would something like the powervelocity 24fet be a good choice? Albeit a tad expensive.

Sorry for hijacking your thread, but people asked...

I helped develop the PV controller product line. They are based on a reasonably good programmable sinusoidal MCU's that arrive in the USA without mosfets or caps. PowerVelocity, then populates them with best of breed parts before he sells them. You are not getting just some Chinese controller, You are getting best of the best mosfets there are. We spent a lot of time trying out differnt mosfets to find the ones that really deliver the best power and reliablility. You'd be surprised how many mosfet models we vetted over the last couple of years. These controllers cost what they cost for really good reasons. IF you bought the original ones made 100% in China, they would be probably $100-120 less and probably about as good as a knock-off Sabvoton. No PV controller is currently FOC capable, but they are pretty darn good sinusoidal controllers with lots of advanced features.

You are not just getting an upgraded motor controller. You are getting a module that I helped develop. It includes an IOS or android app so you can program the controller on your phone. It also includes a nice dashboard and a GPS app. That extra cost is getting you what I think is one of the best EV tools there is. Think of a CA, but much much better and does loads more.

Here's a few pics of the app. It and the module cost you a mere $100, but it destroys the CA and anything else like them on the market. If you have a CA connector, you can still use the module with any controller, just not program it. This is the current app. PV and I do constant development on the software for better functionality and new features. There's new features being added all the time. I'd say every 2 weeks or so a new version comes out that has new stuff in it.

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This is a prototype telemetry module next to a final product like you would get with a PV controller. It runs on an atmel 328 CPU and includes it's own 150v max power supply, BT module and the ability to monitor anything on an EV. You can see only some of the solder connections have connectors, that's because there's so much on this tiny board that will get developed in the future and the hardware is in place now. I know what most of those things are, but I'm keeping that to myself for now. It would take quite a lot to talk about it all. The connectors cover the "stuff" 99% of people will use. This covers 2 temperature inputs, full CA functionality, throttle in and throttle out, variable regen and a controller programming port. The module is fully updatable with new firmware as new features are developed.

Telemetry%20module%20v6%201.jpg


The 24 fet controller depending on if you get the 100v or 150v version uses top teir mosfets in those voltages. There is no chance of fakes either since they are bought from Digikey or Arrow. Here's some pics of the PV 24 fet. 17,000uf of power buss filtering, IRF4115 mosfets (150v version). Loads of copper reinforcing on all the major power traces. These are solid controllers and cost what they cost for good reasons.

Populated%20board.jpg

Mosfet%20Buss%20close-up.jpg


This is how every PV controller comes into the USA and then gets populated with top grade components here. You are not getting just some Chinese controller!

unpopulated%20board.jpg

Arcuino cpu?
 
j bjork said:
On my frame the outer shell or metal sleeve is still there. It was like that when I bougt the frame, and I didn´t bother to take it out. It didn´t go all the way to the edges, so there vere still room for the bearings.

I am 190cm tall, wight something like 85-90kg

That's good then if yours can still get bearings in with the sleeve still in. Mine was out to the edges of frame If I can remember and I don't think the bearings would of gone in if I had left it in? :thumb:
 
Ok, I don´t know how it looked from the start. I bougt my frame used. But on mine there was maby 20mm on each side of the sleeve to the edge. It would have been better if there were more like 10mm, then it could have been useful as a stopper for the bearings.

I thought about taking it out and making another pipe to put in instead. But I did it another way with washers on the outside to keep the bearings in place.
 
I'm sure either way is fine. Got to be better than that crap rubber bushing. :| :thumb: I had the same problem with the holes in the frame for the bolt for rear shock absorber are to big for the M8 bolt and I had 4 bronze spacers machined up to take out the slack,I'm hoping that this will get rid of the wobble from the swinging arm at speed that shortcircuit was having?👍🙂
 
Im running 24Fet on my Futr beta Built by stealth with Mxus 3k is a amazing controller i love it.. can fault it BT works great
 
@yungyakz not sure. I'd send EG a PM and ask him as he took it apart and has the guts.

@choppa, finally got that damn bushing out, what a pain in the ass. Going to make an internal spacer between the bearings so that they don't push inward on each other.

So I got some stuff done this weekend and am pretty impressed with how much i was able to get done. I made up some shock mount tabs out of mild steel and got them welded to a piece of flat steel which will be welded to the top of the swingarm. I got the old tabs cut off of the swingarm but still need to do some more surface prep before TIG welding the piece in place (probably this week). I also ruined the insert in the shock that the bolt passes through, so I pressed it out and will steal one from my other shock.

Took kid to cycle gear and found a dunlop MX52 on the tire rack so I snagged it. Took the rear wheel and new tire to the local bike shop and had him swap it. He already called saying it's done so I'll send the wife to grab it sometime this week. I can't wait to see how much more traction I'm going to get with this tire, it should be night and day. Things is now I'll need more amps to sling that extra tire around.

As I said above I was able to drill/hacksaw that damn bushing out of the frame. It was a pain in the ass to get out, but with the new bearings, spacer, etc, the rear end should feel really solid. The play in the swingarm/frame interface, and the soft tires with small contact patch made this scary hauling ass in the hills. I cleaned up the bore and prepped it for the new parts which are on order. I got 30X16X7 bearings which should do the trick. The 16mm dimension is the ID of the bearing which I intentionally got bigger so I can make a spacer that is a slip fit with the mounting bolt. Bearings should be here this week. I have a lot of parts to make and a lot of metal work remaining on the swingarm, I'm going to see if I can get most/all of it done this week so I can start re-assembly next weekend. Work is crazy busy so we'll see how it goes, keep you posted.
 

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Hello everybody

I'm new member and this is my first post. My EEB frame came today same as yours. The EEB frame have 2 things that really bother me. The first one is the rubber bushing at the swing arm, it would be nice if you can post some pictures how to install it. The second is the side panels are they waterproof or have to be sealed with something?
 
@dung what's up man, welcome. As far as that bushing goes, you might as well drill it out now that it's pretty accessible and install bearings. The side panels leaking water haven't been an issue for me, I've only ridden in light rain though.

So I've been chipping away at the to do list and am almost ready to start getting everything back together. The first major task checked off was welding the new top plate with shock mounts. This should be much stronger than how it was. Also, the holes for the mounting bolts are 8mm, not 8.5mm like they were before, so that should get rid of the play.

For the top mount I made some plates that mount to the original mount, but they're 8mm. I tapped the frame and screwed them to the sides, rather than remaking everything.

The other major mod was getting the bearings installed in the frame. The frame was 60mm wide (in the bushing area) and the bearings were 7mm thick each. So I made a spacer that was 46mm long that sits between the bearings to keep them from going inward. I added some green loctite (for a slip fit interface) and got them in with the rubber mallet. The spacer that sits in the ID of the bearings is machined to fit snugly in the swingarm with a washer on each side. Hopefully all these mods take all the slop out of the rear end.
 

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@shortcircuit911

Thx for replying my answer with alot of usefull pictures. I'm so appreciated. I tried to save some bucks to buy the cheapest enduro frame and I'm not a handyman. What a big mistank. I hope it dont stop me to complete the bike.
 
Shortcircuit911

Great job on the shock mounts,looking good. :thumb: :thumb: good job on swinging arm bearings to,I hope that solves the problem and makes the rear end more stable? Keep us informed.🙂 you got plans to get bike repainted now or just going to touch it up where you welded it? Be cool to see it done in a different colour. :bigthumb:
 
Seems like my bearings at swingarm differ from yours and the inside is not of rubber. I hope it will hold.

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Dung said:
Seems like my bearings at swingarm differ from yours and the inside is not of rubber. I hope it will hold.

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Hi Dung. That's different then?? Looks like a better job than the rubber bushing we had in ours. Are you sure its the same frame as we have? If yours is an EEB frame then I'm thinking it may be different? The frame we have is all steel with steel side panels,does yours have plastic side panels and square box section inside the frame where the batteries and electronics go? Be interesting to see a picture. I'm sure that bearing you have there will be fine aslong as there's no play in it?
 
Dung said:
@shortcircuit911

Thx for replying my answer with alot of usefull pictures. I'm so appreciated. I tried to save some bucks to buy the cheapest enduro frame and I'm not a handyman. What a big mistank. I hope it dont stop me to complete the bike.

Ps if it is an EEB frame then its probably better quality than ours!!😀 Certainly more expensive than ours and lighter to!! So don't be worrying that's it's a cheap one or that you have made a big mistake. :thumb:
 
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