Any tips on Vedder Anti-Spark switch?

[sl33py]

Surprisingly i don't see any build threads?! I was looking at the PCB layout on github and the BOM. This looks totally doable even for me. Cost for the materials is minor. OSHPark shows $10 for three. Thinking i might tackle this.

Did some searches and not seeing any build threads or completed boards. Vedder's layout looks simple/clean and compact, so i'm surprised more folks haven't done it yet!

Before anyone asks - here's his github w/ v1.3 of the sparkswitch:
https://github.com/vedderb/SparkSwitch

And doing a little mouser research on costs, here's his BOM i've added pricing so i can eyeball cost to make one:

Anyone with a finished board and any tips? I'm especially curious on the fuse component (what size, how is yours installed) and power switch used?

 

[chaka]

I use a similar in-rush controller to vedders. Its a little more compact but close enough to walk you through any issues you might encounter.

 

[torqueboards]

Here's how Ben's looks like.

40A for the fuse... Might be better to add one of these that way it's easier to swap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Packs-30A-Gauge-ATC-Fuse-Holder-In-line-AWG-Wire-Copper-12V-Power-Blade-SR1G-/161749719100?hash=item25a908d83c

 

[saul]

I just started looking into these today, but they do look pretty doable and much better than the $50 prebuilt options.

Does anyone have any pcbs for sale? I don't think a perf board would play nice with the current.

 

[akiraEC]

Exactly. I am desperately waiting for a pcb with a thick layer of copper.

 

[chaka]

Here's the fuse I use on my systems http://www.mouser.com/Search/Produc...virtualkey57610000virtualkey576-142.5631.6102 I keep my fuse protection separate from the inrush controller. I generally size a fuse 13% higher than the designed maximum current. You can probably find cheaper fuses designed for car audio systems but they have a lower voltage rating, usually good to 32v.


And the switch I use http://www.ebay.com/itm/3pcs-Rocker...C-125V-6A-AC-250V-3A-US-Seller-/271977252858? It is only important that it be a SPDT type switch.

 

[sl33py]

Here's how Ben's looks like.

40A for the fuse... Might be better to add one of these that way it's easier to swap.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-Packs-30A-Gauge-ATC-Fuse-Holder-In-line-AWG-Wire-Copper-12V-Power-Blade-SR1G-/161749719100?hash=item25a908d83c

Thanks Torque (as always - the man in the know!). I'll look at the inline holder as it's much more elegant and want to be able to swap without re-soldering. Though i imagine it's a rare occurrence the fuse blows (i'd hope).

Think this will be a bit of good practice before i dive into a VESC from scratch!

 

[sl33py]

I just started looking into these today, but they do look pretty doable and much better than the $50 prebuilt options.

Does anyone have any pcbs for sale? I don't think a perf board would play nice with the current.

OSHPark will make them from a zip of the gerber files. Price shown (not sure about shipping) was $10 for 3! Seems really reasonable. Parts from mouser are another $5-7, and that just leaves some wires and your switch of choice! You are in CA so probably some sales tax, but shipping shouldn't be crazy expensive like some of our euro brethren who then have additional import taxes/duties.

 

[sl33py]

I use a similar in-rush controller to vedders. Its a little more compact but close enough to walk you through any issues you might encounter.

I'm always pretty impressed with Ben's work. Seems pretty simple and compact... (even a ham fisted noob like me can *probably* make it!)

I like your fuse! Mind sharing a pic of your in-rush controller? I saw another guy posted his on the thread with ben trying to sell them, but when i dug into it, it was beefy. I think intended for e-bikes and big aluminum heatsink bolted to one side. Cool - yes. For e-board... not so much.

Thanks all!!

 

[akiraEC]

40A might be on the low side, no ?

 

[sl33py]

40A might be on the low side, no ?

It's what Ben suggests. Looking at watt meter my peak on dual VESC w/ 5065's was usually 65A. For a couple seconds that shouldn't burn the fuse. That was on 8s, so the higher voltage of 10/12s should actually have lower Amps. And the spark becomes more of an issue the higher voltage you go so it makes sense i think.

I'm curious though on chaka's setup w/ that 100A fuse.

 

[akiraEC]

Maybe having some passive cooling on the fets could help to allow higher current.

 

[chaka]

40A might be on the low side, no ?

It's what Ben suggests. Looking at watt meter my peak on dual VESC w/ 5065's was usually 65A. For a couple seconds that shouldn't burn the fuse. That was on 8s, so the higher voltage of 10/12s should actually have lower Amps. And the spark becomes more of an issue the higher voltage you go so it makes sense i think.

I'm curious though on chaka's setup w/ that 100A fuse.

I should have added that the 100amp fuse is what I use on an 8s battery pack designed for a max speed of 25mph. You start tickling the specs when you push towards 30mph and beyond.

A rough "rule of thumb" is to size your fuse 13% higher than the maximum spec of what you are trying to protect.

I also use a fuse purely to guard against harming my battery system in the case of a short at the charge port or elsewhere, it would suck to blow 30-80 cell fuses because of a crossed terminal. Protection circuits usually have short circuit protection too so it is kind of redundant when using a BMS but still necessary in my opinion.

My personal specs however are in a whole other realm in regards to normal output. I tend to pull around 1800 watts when I first start accelerating towards 30mph/50kph starting from a running speed of 15-20mph, it slowly ramps down to around 800 watts roughly as I approach 30mph. This is usually followed by heavy braking and repeated till DOD.

 

[sl33py]

thread revival (my own so i think i'm allowed)...

Got some cool LED switches that need 12v to light up.

Can find some BEC's that output 12v, but most are limited to 6s max. I'm hoping to use this on some of my setups with possibly 12s. Any thoughts or suggestions on how best to do this?

worst case i can leave it unpowered/unlit. Work but boring.

What about a step-up converter from 5v to 12v? Grab power from VESC 5v power output that goes to Rx?
Found a small 1.25A max output (plenty):
http://www.amazon.com/power-module-3-5V~10V-Output-version/dp/B0043BBXT4

Appreciate input and thoughts on best way to do this!

 

[akiraEC]

Anybody planning to launch a batch of PCB production in Europe ?
I would be in for at least four of it !!

 

[izeman]

@sl33py: i ordered one of those: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/ELEWIND-22mm-BLACK-aluminum-Ring-illuminated-Latching-push-button-switch-PM221F-11ZE-G-2-8V-A/1349197965.html
they are 12V as well. up-converting the voltage from 5V to 12V will probably work, but you can also down-convert the main battery to 12V with a resistor network. it will waste around 600mW, generating heat, so a 1W resistor is needed, but that would be the easiest and cheapest solution.

 

[elkick]

Anybody planning to launch a batch of PCB production in Europe ?
I would be in for at least four of it !!

Yes, thinking of making some, will have the costs within the next few days. I'll let you know.

 

[akiraEC]

Anybody planning to launch a batch of PCB production in Europe ?
I would be in for at least four of it !!

Yes, thinking of making some, will have the costs within the next few days. I'll let you know.

Great !
What thickness of copper do you plan to use ?

 

[izeman]

oshpark is super cheap. they have worldwide shipping included already. no need to order in europe.

 

[elkick]

Great !
What thickness of copper do you plan to use ?

Checking it with the local manufacturer, it will be produced in Germany and I'm currently waiting for the proposal. They'll test it and will do a QA on it too. As soon as I have the specs I'll post them here.

 

[torqueboards]

You can also get rocker buttons on eBay which are a ton cheaper than the push buttons.

 

[akiraEC]

oshpark is super cheap. they have worldwide shipping included already. no need to order in europe.

But you can't change the copper thickness, can you ?

 

[elkick]

Thanks, this is just plain on/off Switch (cheapest) or is it switching anything? Actually they just called me abou the switch

Well, it's custom made, I can specify what ever needed. So any hints are welcome.

Edit: got you wrong, but nevertheless...

 

[akiraEC]

Yeah ... I guess some strong current will be flowing in the PCB.
Maybe Vedder knows better how thick we should plan the copper .

 

[elkick]

Yeah ... I guess some strong current will be flowing in the PCB.
Maybe Vedder knows better how thick we should plan the copper .

I'll do that. Solved the switch question though, spdt one pole.