Controller Problems No Replacement Controller Available (Out of Stock)

[jleval]

Hello All,
I have an aostirmoter 750w 48v ebike with a fat hub brushless motor. When it was under warranty, the first controller motor broke. They sent me another one, but the wiring had different gages. At first I used electric tape, but it crapped out. Then I went in and used these connectors, I guess the call them but hole connectors. It was working just fine, but crapped out on me today. Its sitting at my work, locked up.
The first problem was that the engine was making a grinding noise. I thought it was a problem with the motor, but it was just a loose wire. It is having the same problem now. The grinding noise, then it wont go.
Should I buy another controller motor, and from where. And what would you suggest. Any help would be appreciated. This bike is literally how I get to work every day.
This companies controller motor is out of stock, so getting a replacement controller from them is out of the question.

Any help would be appreciated.

 

[e-beach]

Hello jleval, welcome to ES.

First things first: You need to study the names of your components so we know what your are referring to. There is no "controller motor" Presumably your are talking about your "motor controller" which is more commonly known simply as a "controller."

And, there is the question of "Why?" your controllers are failing? More about that later.

To answer your question, there are lots of controllers that should power your bike. 48v x 13ah = 624 watts (Ohm's law)
So, unless your manufacture has a proprietary software setup in your display meter or motor, any controller that can handle 750 watt and up will work. For instance a 1000 watt controller will also work. With a fat tire bike, I would look for at least a 48v 20ah controller. It would probably be listed as a 1000 watt controller.

You said that Aostirmotor no longer sells a direct plug-in replacement controller. Have they given you any information on where of get something similar?

The real question is Why? are you burning up controllers.

First do a simple test. Unplug your battery. Unplug the three fat wires that go from your controller to your motor. These are your phase wires. The colors are probably Blue, Yellow, and Green.

Once they are disconnected spin your wheel to see if your motor spins freely.

Then report the result to us.

 

[jleval]

Thank you so much for your reply, and yes, I do have a lot to learn. Form this point on, I will refer to this part as the controller.
There could be any number of reasons that my controllers are burning up. I believe that the battery connection could have something to do with it, also It could be that the controller I first received was faulty, because I did get a replacement, which was different than the original, under warranty.
When I bought the bike, their were some minor design flaws. The battery is bigger than the frame, causing it to wiggle a lot. some of the "screw holes ???" have stripped out because of the aluminum frame. Also, when I first got it, I wouldn't always remember to lock the battery in place, and several times it had come of going down the street after hitting a bump.
The first controller went out and it was covered by warranty. What they sent me had a bunch of strange connectors. Eventually, I ended up stripping the wires, and using connectors (female connectors) I have attempted to fuse all of the cables correctly. However, a lot of the wiring had heated up, and a few times, the wires had come loose before I actually took the time and care to correctly wire them the best I could.
Also, someone had "borrowed" my bike while I was away for a couple of months, They didn't have the key for the battery lock, so the battery (now batteries[I now have 2, awaiting a third in the mail]) connectors were bent and out of place from not being connected correctly and from falling off going 25 mph down the road, I am sure. At one point one of my batteries had stopped working correctly, so I took it apart to find that after having hit the ground so much, the BMS connecting apparatus was completely lose. How the battery worked without it, I don't know.
Anyway, I will do as you requested, once I have the battery reconnected. this means I will have to cut the wires shorter, or find some way to extend them, but I will get it done.

Error 30 is the reading

I am assuming that this is the test you want me to run is like the one in the following link:
https://youtu.be/w7ld-E1EPHM?t=100

 

[jleval]

Okay, I ran the test, and there is resistance with the 3 wires disconnected.

 

[E-HP]

Okay, I ran the test, and there is resistance with the 3 wires disconnected.

How much resistance. It could indicate that the motor has an internal short. If you hold two of the phase wires together (shorted), do you get the same resistance when spinning the wheel?

 

[jleval]

The resistance is light, I'll have to run the other test and get back to you