Conversion of a Bultaco Sherpa

I solved the problem of calibrating the engine probe. On the connectors of the hall sensors, I connected an 18kOhms potentiometer between the white wire and the black wire in parallel with the probe. I set it to 15kOhms. I used an online calculator to determine the value of the potentiometer.
https://www.digikey.fr/fr/resources/conversion-calculators/conversion-calculator-parallel-and-series-resistor
Now it's possible to calibrate the probe. At 0ohm+probe=32°c to 18kOhms+probe= 10°c. This indicated a fair value as you can see in the photos. Before modification the probe indicated 32°c instead of 18°c now.

IMG_20221017_150802.jpgIMG_20221017_150719.jpgScreenshot_2022-10-17-15-06-42-546_com.kelly.ACAduserEnglish.jpg
 
The controller mosfets probe looks wrong as well, 7°c is impossible it is 18°c !
But I won't touch it :mrgreen:
 
Your package is ready to be shipped
IMG_20221019_164229.jpgYou contacted me in private message to summarize what I found. As you could see in my videos there is nothing abnormal on your motor and nothing on your controller either.
I heavily emphasized commissioning your controller using the preload resistor and the order in which to do the commissioning so you can do the same on your bike.
In your place I will install the motor and the controller on the motorcycle and I will connect a voltmeter to the power supply of the controller. This allows you to check the voltage when precharging the capacitors. Do not turn on the ignition if there is a voltage lower than 60v, otherwise it will spark. In your place I will not connect the white connectors 2 and 3c. I will connect the accelerator and the ignition wire number 7 as in my video.In your place I will not connect the white connectors 2 and 3c. I will connect the accelerator and the ignition wire number 7 as in my video.
This method will allow you to know if your precharging circuit is functional.
This avoids any possible problem on the additional connectors of the motorcycle.
It is therefore necessary to resume my video and make a minimalist connection to be able to operate the motor.
I think that when commissioning the controller will self-learn the motor because thé phases will not be connected in the same order as at home.
It will be imperative to carry out the commissioning without putting on the chain because the motor will run during the self-learning.
Once you are certain that the motor works well with the temporary wiring, you can connect the final wires gradually, checking beforehand that there is no problem.
For the connections of the wires of your motorcycle you can do tests with a small smartphone charger it will be less risky than connecting directly to the motorcycle.
 
Thank you again for testing and for the explanation how to proceed further.
:bigthumb:

This helps me a lot.
So I hope I will get the motorbike to work again, without having to buy new parts.

I will keep this thread updated.

For everyone interested,
I have made a little video of the building process,
including some first driving footage.
It is not listed on youtube, so you will not find it in the search.
Here is the link: https://youtu.be/h8WAWDuIuhI
 
Your video is great I love it. I find the controller above the engine very nice, it looks like the cylinder head of the heat engine. Too bad the plastic box that protects the controller is not as beautiful. For your motorbike I think everything will be fine. We will do the tests together if you want. I'm thinking of sending you the package this weekend.
Maybe you should make scoops on each side of the bike to allow better cooling of the engine. It is behind the battery and covered by the controller. This does not help with cooling even if this motor does not heat up very much and it supports high temperatures internally.
 
@Elektrosherpa
To make it easier to set your controller in bluetooth, I give you the method I used.
You have to turn on the controller and stay very close to it (50cm)
Launch bluetooth search on the phone. A number appears here on 210114008
It is necessary to make the appearance via the code 1234.
Then open the AC Aduser app.
Choose bluetooth, click on open and select 210114008.
Wait for the message CONNECTED to appear at the bottom of the screen and finally click on R to read the parameters.
Remember to put fuses on the live circuits of your motorcycle for the first commissioning in order to limit the risks. Do like me, with a 5A fuse on the Neiman, a 5A fuse on the capacitor precharging circuit and the battery fuse.
 
I need you to send me a new shipping form for your package as it was only valid for 7 days.
At the post office they say you can print a new one since it is already paid for. You can send it to me in private message.
 
PITMIX said:
Maybe you should make scoops on each side of the bike to allow better cooling of the engine. It is behind the battery and covered by the controller. This does not help with cooling even if this motor does not heat up very much and it supports high temperatures internally.

I dont think that the ventilation of the motor is a problem.
When it got hot, the heat was mainly at the end covers. The center part with the "cooling fins" was never too hot to be touched with bare hands.
Here you can see that there is a free space under the battery holder (removed on photo) for air passing through to the motor:
MotorHolder.jpg
 
PITMIX said:
I need you to send me a new shipping form for your package as it was only valid for 7 days.
At the post office they say you can print a new one since it is already paid for. You can send it to me in private message.


Couldnt print the unused one, since it was expired.

I sent you a new one in PM.
 
It's perfect, I think I'll send it tomorrow afternoon. :thumb:
 
It's good I posted your package without any problem! :D
 
Hello, did you have time to start editing?
 
As they say in France "work is health!" But we also says "to do nothing is to preserve it"😆
 
Great ! :bigthumb:
 
Can we expect to see your engine running
before Christmas?
 
PITMIX said:
Can we expect to see your engine running before Christmas?

I am afraid:
no...
:roll:

because:

1) I am back to work, so not much free time left

2) due to the news I had to shift priorities
(for those who live in other parts of the world: French government announced possible blackouts this winter :evil: )

So in the little free time left, I am busy preparing my house for such events:
- installing wood stoves,
- preparing a generator supply,
- preparing for using the electric motorbike battery for delivering 230V DC,
to keep at least the most important things working
 
Yes I think that for a power outage of 2 hours you survive without generator.
 
If there really is a power outage I'll play cards with the kids, and candle lighting. I think my daughter will love it.
 
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