Custom Build... 2 Speed H.O.B.O Powered e-Cruiser

[Fizban]

Thats one hell of a motor you have there. I think you might have to register whatever bike you build to make a home for that beast. Might I suggest using a 4 speed gearbox from a pre-unit royal enfield for the gearbox to go with that monster, they are built to cope with 25hp 500cc ICE motors. Then again having the new wheelchair come off the towhitch at 120+kph might not be good. I like a lot of other loyal followers of your inspiring work will be keen to see what you come up with. Keep up the good work and keep having fun.

 

[bigmoose]

So it doesn't get lost, this from post 103 in the Lazair reference:

Upon inspection after the last flight, I noticed what appeared to be solder spray that had landed on some stator windings of both motors. After disassembling both motors I found that the Y node of the WYE wound motor windings had overheated and the solder from the node had melted and migrated out, onto the windings. Although the node was still mechanically sound because I had wrapped the joint with fine stands of wire while I was soldering it, the overheated joint was a likely source of additional heating. I was lucky that the joint did not completely fail and destroy my motor controller again.

In hindsight I should not have buried this soldered Y node deep inside the motor windings, the hottest section of the motor. Currently I am beginning the rewinding process on both motors again but this significant delay in testing has forced me to cancel my cross country plans. I still hope to be able to fly the plane at Oshkosh.

Needless to say, I will terminate all 6 of the winding ends outside the stator area this time.

 

[AussieJester]

That is one helluva motor May I ask why you are rewinding it? Lower Kv I'm guessing?
I guess with that beauty you won't be needing the old 80-100 anymore
If not, I would love to take it off your hands for a reasonable price.
It might give you some more funds for another one of your beautiful frames.

Yup lower Kv ...and no on the Turnigy 80-100 sale i am actually in search of more myself
i have only the one pictured and the one on the cruiser i would like to purchase at least 2 more of the
V2 motor...would actually like one of the V1s also they sound so much nicer at full noise...

Nice motor. If you are up for some additional info regarding rewinding this monster check out the following rc groups thread starting on page 3, post #43.

http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1412424&page=3

Thankyou for the link mate, very nice ultralight he's electrified, i saved a few pics and will
make a post in another section of the forum highlighting his use of Lipo for all the
e-bike lipo users scared shitless of their packs on the bike... :lol:

Got me a new motor last night when good ol Timma2500
dropped over I iz now the proud owner of a Turnigy CA-120



^^ Sitting next to a ThudSTeR rewound V1 Turnigy 80-100 130Kv motor
She is a big bastard ain't she :-| Will be rewinding this one ala Thuds
instructions, then have to squeeze it onto the bike somhow... wanna see new frame anyone? :lol:
...

Yes please Err, is that speed holes in your mouse? That's taking it too far AJ

HAHA nagh no 'lightening holes' on the mouse, thats how it came i think its meant
to look like a stone or a rock...my friend bougyht a couple of them on special and gave me one of them
very nice mouse..

That's a monster Kim, can't wait to see the new HOBO project begin.

Is there a drive shaft on the mounting side of the motor or do you have to drive off the can?

Yup appears to be a drive shaft on it but the sprocket/prop attaches to the can also, go kart sprockets would bolt onto these beautifully...

Thats one hell of a motor you have there. I think you might have to register whatever bike you build to make a home for that beast. Might I suggest using a 4 speed gearbox from a pre-unit royal enfield for the gearbox to go with that monster, they are built to cope with 25hp 500cc ICE motors. Then again having the new wheelchair come off the towhitch at 120+kph might not be good. I like a lot of other loyal followers of your inspiring work will be keen to see what you come up with. Keep up the good work and keep having fun.

Yup its a beast ain't it haha...only gearbox that would be used on this would be a ThudSTeR 2 speed i also
have no interest whatsoever of going over 100km/hr on a bicycle, high speeds don't impress/interest me one iota
~80km is fast enough, long as it has the power to get most of the way there with the front wheel
2 inches off the ground... :wink:

So it doesn't get lost, this from post 103 in the Lazair reference:

Upon inspection after the last flight, I noticed what appeared to be solder spray that had landed on some stator windings of both motors. After disassembling both motors I found that the Y node of the WYE wound motor windings had overheated and the solder from the node had melted and migrated out, onto the windings. Although the node was still mechanically sound because I had wrapped the joint with fine stands of wire while I was soldering it, the overheated joint was a likely source of additional heating. I was lucky that the joint did not completely fail and destroy my motor controller again.

In hindsight I should not have buried this soldered Y node deep inside the motor windings, the hottest section of the motor. Currently I am beginning the rewinding process on both motors again but this significant delay in testing has forced me to cancel my cross country plans. I still hope to be able to fly the plane at Oshkosh.

Needless to say, I will terminate all 6 of the winding ends outside the stator area this time.

I have had a bit of a read through that thread late last night BiGMooSE i spotted that
issue also I see he has moved to a couple of Joby motors now the Turnigys a little underpowered for
the high constant power he required... hrmz...i wonder if i could pick up the Turnigys cheap :-|

Cheers all for the interest, shall create a new thread when i start rewinding this and building a frame to mount her in...
or modify the existing one, seeing it will be trashed anywayz in favor of a replica chromo replacement...

ciao for now...

KiM

 

[dbaker]

What an aircraft I loved the lipo bricks hanging from the wings

 

[markobetti]

i look forward to you build ( read : documented with a lot of juicy pics) with this motor. Your setup is going to fly with this motor , i am quite happy with its performance.. that i have seen by now... Aussie , if you will add external hall sensors pm me so i can send you the setup for them that i have

 

[AussieJester]

i look forward to you build ( read : documented with a lot of juicy pics) with this motor.

Well buddy, that time is alot closer to happening, i just got back from forking out
$AU235 for enough 4130 chromo to build a new frame, a replica of the current frame minus
the kinked tubing as ThudSTeR hooked me up with a new roller bender from Harbor Freight he 'da MaN!

re: the Chromo tubing for the new build, front half i have gone with 1.5 x .035inch tubing which is ~38mm the current
frame has 32mm 1.2mm wall thickness tube, the weight difference is UNBELIEVABLE the chromo
tube is thiner and wider but SOOOOO much lighter...and of course stronger, the slightly larger diameter should give the bike
a bit of a chunky look...i hope ...in contrast For the rear chain and seat stays i have downsized slightly
i have gone with 19mm wide tubing with (.5mm wall thickness IIRC )
Its slightly thinner diameter however, we are Down from the 23mm diameter i used on original mild steel frame
Thicker than the 38mm tube wall thickness anywayz need the extra strength to stop the flexing... RAPT
with the supplier of the tubing Go Gear Racing The have HEAPS of sizes and
shape tubing, one in particular caught my eye, its 'aero' tubing
cross profile of it looks like a symetric aireoplane wing, had images of frames using this rushing through my head
when i was at the shop, the fella that served use was excellent, said he has had alot of fellas in buying chromo
for custom motorcyle frames, wheelchairs and even aeroplanes! I seriously think a tow able chromo wheelchair is in order
i can't keep using my new chair the tread on the tires is nearly gone and its only a month old :-S

Shall prolly start a separate worklog when i do this new frame? Will do this when the bender arrives OH ShiT! i also need another
suitable head tube..ARGH...off to order one now... i.e Ring Matt.P see if he can hook me up......yet again

ciao for now gents..

KiM

EDiT: p.s i also bought half a sheet of flat plate chromo 4130 for gussets, unfortunately they only went to 3mm which IMHO is
too thin for rear dropouts, so they will again be the 5mm variety as per used on original frame

 

[sico]

Hi mate, I'll be following this one with interest. 8)

Do you need special wire to weld (or get full strength from) the chrome molly?

Does the pipe need any special treatment before or after bending?

Cheers,

Simon.

 

[AussieJester]

Hi mate, I'll be following this one with interest. 8)

Do you need special wire to weld (or get full strength from) the chrome molly?

Does the pipe need any special treatment before or after bending?

Cheers,

Simon.

No special wire needed to weld it i have been told, unsure if there is MiG wire available specifically for chromo?
And Jeremy Harris posted here on ES that thin chromo tubing doesn't require any special heat treatment...I
think IIRC Jermey said its when you start getting alot thicker and large sections of welding on
chromo, heat treating is required to get full strength back, but i could be wrong on that..?Luke? input? maybe LoL
either way this frame will be welded with the wire i have and not heat treated any further than maybe using
the propane setup to heat the welded areas a little, the entire frame heat treating scenario wont be happening guaranteed :lol: ...
...Hope you enjoy the build anywayz, i was hoping to get it as close to the current frame as i can, i still have the image of it
drawn on my garage floor when i fabricated it so can re-use this as a guide I have also
though, been thinking of 'wayz' to include a few inches of rear suspension without distracting too much from
the flowing lines of the frame...basically gotta look good first and performance second ....i have two sketches
one where the shock runs along the bottom tube (where the actuator is now) and requires a more tressel
type swing arm, which i LOVE but alas due to shock postion and actuator in the way, well...... where as the second
(which will likely be used if i go with rear suspension) the shock sits below and parallel to the top tube lil forward
of the seat tube...Only need a few inches of travel for a street going bike..imo

KiM

 

[Grinhill]

I'm looking forward to seeing the CroMo version of your cruiser, Kim, get welding soon!!! How much lighter do you think the frame will end up?

I suppose you have considered a trailer or trolley arrangement for your wheelchair to keep the main wheels off the ground? What about some pneumatic pram wheels, like the ones that are about 200mm diameter?

 

[recumpence]

Kim,

Chromo is a friggin @#$%*& to cut, but it is easy to weld. DO NOT QUENCH THE WELD! It gets brittle. Just let it cool slowly. In fact, I have been told some guys will insulate the weld in various ways to let it cool really slowly. I think that may be a bot over the top, though. I just weld it and leave it. No problem.

Matt

 

[johnrobholmes]

Yes, let it cool slow. Anything under 1/4" thickness won't need heat treating, that is why chromo was invented in the first place.

I bet you shed some big weight!

 

[Whiplash]

Hey AJ, about the suspension, why not go with a simple air ride setup you could delete the actuator and just set the frame on the ground when you come to a stop! Would likely be lighter too! I think this would put your build over the top!

 

[liveforphysics]

It welds great with mild steel rod. You are going to not enjoy mitering the joint cuts much, or bending and smashing it much, but you will love the end result. Frames just feel invincible that you make from this stuff.

 

[AussieJester]

Hey AJ, about the suspension, why not go with a simple air ride setup you could delete the actuator and just set the frame on the ground when you come to a stop! Would likely be lighter too! I think this would put your build over the top!

Yeah thought about air ride in past, theres one on RatRods thats pretty neat
but the thought of it failing at 70km/hr and dumping the frame on the pavement sort of puts me off...

@Luke... yeah looking forward to the end result, i received package number 3 yesterday from ThudSTeR 8)
i need one last package for the remaining parts of my roller bender, soooOOz i will soon be into building the new frame
from 4130 Luke I'm also creeping my way through the rewind of the Turnigy CA-120 and organised with ThudSTeR
a two speed kit for it ... the new 'incarnation' of the 2 speed cruiser will be nuts, no air ride suspension needed
WhipMaN :wink: hehee ... I haven't totally discounted rear suspension, but more i get
into it the less i want to do it so, most likely will stick with an exact replica of existing
frame, in the chromo, it handles beautifully and the 1inch or so i get from the sprung seat
suits my needs. I have my fingers crossed that final box will lob this afternoon anyway,
so i can assembly my bender and get stuck into something i know better than winding motors i.e
cutting, bending and welding steel LoL

As i want this all to come together in a few weeks, i will likely forgo the picture taking and documenting, nothing
new that hasn't been seen before and it just takes up so much extra time...

KiM

 

[AussieJester]

Hello all... So... i have tried a few times now to get a video that iz
a half decent 'examaple' of the noise these outrunner's make...
Without the wind noise...Being a "Mr non Anal" about noise
have to sayz my ES buddies, these HOBOS are fuckin GREAT ' -->

[youtube]KxNta7yGY2A[/youtube]
OK... not as quick as Lukes granted ....but still hell-a-lota fun at a 1/10 the cost

take note, this was done when Batteries were at 45v

Soz to ThudSTaR 8) for not 'flat changing' i iz lookin' after the gear box buddy :: wink ::

SO.. guys & gals...I have a new build on the go, bigger motor, lighter and
stronger frame... and another two speed... :wink: Shall take some pics when
its all done...

I do want to thank those that have followed this thread and supported me
along the way, it keeps me motivated alot, on the days i feel like crap..
i'm an arrogant arsehole at times, I know...but, know
i do appreciate the support .... LoVEs ya all

KiM

 

[gtadmin]

...
SO.. guys & gals...I have a new build on the go, bigger motor, lighter and
stronger frame... and another two speed... :wink: Shall take some pics when
its all done...

CroMo with mid mounted hubbie, eh

I do want to thank those that have followed this thread and supported me
along the way, it keeps me motivated alot, on the days i feel like crap..
i'm an arrogant arsehole at times, I know...but, know
i do appreciate the support .... LoVEs ya all

KiM

Really I hadn't noticed mate! You know you inspire people though, whether they always agree with you or not. Anyway, new year, new build: love it

Cheers (and merry Xmas),
GT

 

[deVries]

Great demo ride... love how you brake & slide turn & slow-park into the garage. :lol:
Sweet shifting sound... that low gear would be awesome for super steep hills or a mountain.

I have a new build on the go, bigger motor, lighter and stronger frame...

Look forward to your commentary about the CrMo... cutting, grinding, bending, welding... w/any tips for future builds using this tuff-light material.

 

[AussieJester]

HAHAAH@ mid mounted frock, i guess it balances the bike out better but farrrk
there's sooo many better options, blows me away the whole mid mounted frock really does...
The chromo will make this a whole different bike, i will get the frame as close
as identical to this one as i can, add in a rewound Turnigy CA-120 @66V
mounted on a ThudSTeR 2 speeD and we will have us some big ass :: grinz::
Single speeds are for wiminez
Gotta keep one step ahead of the local frock bois you knowz GTAdmiN

Thankyou also deVries, its a fun bike to ride, seems alot quicker when riding it LoL
it was ~10km/hr down on top speed acceleration a lil slower, i should of charged
the pack, i have only been charging to ~4.10v a cell of late so shes always "half"
charged, cept for when i go out for long rides with mates... First gear is good for
50km/hr second hits shade under 75km/hr with fully charged pack...Still puts
a grin on my face handles like its on rails too...lil moroe power and a lil
lighter...hrmmm.. me needs a good helmet and some padding fo-sho

cheers chaps Merry Christmas and Happy NeW YeaR to you both

KiM

 

[Fizban]

Hey there, I will also be looking forward to the new build and your experiences with CroMoly. Will you be using a mig or tig when you weld it ? I thought it could only be tig welded. I will also like to see how you fit the bigger motor and higher voltage packs into the same size frame too. Good luck and Merry Christmas.

 

[Byte]

... add in a rewound Turnigy CA-120 @66V
...

Niceeee And what controller are you planning to use?

Oh, btw, wasn't the 2 speed from Thud opensource? (Or am I wrong?) Could you give me the link of his topic please?

 

[markobetti]

as i understood they are lowering the kv. My kv on very similiar motor with one cm longer magnets is around 70 and it works either with Kelly or Xie chang so i am guessing 18 fet would be fine with 4110 fets inside
With proper gearing Kim is going to be using he is not going to have problems with controller , and Thuds rewiring is going to make is going to help controller .
Anyway i dont know if you saw the video or not ( Kelly -cntrl - and external Hals) :
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xqEg2BPU4Co&list=UUdiZ_nVrcRkF6OGJpJK9TjA&index=1&feature=plcp
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ACFMH0DKtwE&list=UUdiZ_nVrcRkF6OGJpJK9TjA&index=4&feature=plcp

There are also few videos where we havent adjusted external hal sensors as we should so there were few cut offs before the thing started to work properly

 

[markobetti]

Sorry Kim . Please tell me if i allready posted this, i will delete it .

 

[Thud]

Byte,
you can fine the re-loaded drawing here:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=7832&p=309846#p309846
its about 1/3rd the way down the page.

 

[Gordo]

bigmoose,
We experienced a many similar problem with MC alternators, when pulling 55 amps with heated clothing. Some of the factory joints were a steel crimp and others were twisted and soldered. The steel crimps resulted in the wires burning off and the soldered joints melted and came apart. My solution was to use brass crimps from fishing tackle, or to crimp small rings of copper tubing and hi-temperature solder. The basics of any electrical connection is a good mechanical connection before soldering. Wrapping soft wire around a joint does not make it "mechanically sound". Only a crimp provides the necessary clamping force.

So it doesn't get lost, this from post 103 in the Lazair reference:

Upon inspection after the last flight, I noticed what appeared to be solder spray that had landed on some stator windings of both motors. After disassembling both motors I found that the Y node of the WYE wound motor windings had overheated and the solder from the node had melted and migrated out, onto the windings. Although the node was still mechanically sound because I had wrapped the joint with fine stands of wire while I was soldering it, the overheated joint was a likely source of additional heating. I was lucky that the joint did not completely fail and destroy my motor controller again.

In hindsight I should not have buried this soldered Y node deep inside the motor windings, the hottest section of the motor. Currently I am beginning the rewinding process on both motors again but this significant delay in testing has forced me to cancel my cross country plans. I still hope to be able to fly the plane at Oshkosh.

Needless to say, I will terminate all 6 of the winding ends outside the stator area this time.

 

[AussieJester]

Hey there, I will also be looking forward to the new build and your experiences with CroMoly. Will you be using a mig or tig when you weld it ? I thought it could only be tig welded. I will also like to see how you fit the bigger motor and higher voltage packs into the same size frame too. Good luck and Merry Christmas.

I'll be using a mig welder, migs weld chromo no problem, the current bike was initially designed to fit 12
6s 22v LiPO bricks so they will slot straight in to the existing setup with exception to the buss bars, these will be
taken out and a new set fabbed to suit a 66v config. The packs rather than being 'upright' will lay
parallel, 3 packs high two wide 2 long with a bus bar up the gutz :lol: ...

... add in a rewound Turnigy CA-120 @66V
...

Niceeee And what controller are you planning to use?

Oh, btw, wasn't the 2 speed from Thud opensource? (Or am I wrong?) Could you give me the link of his topic please?

Controller will be a modded 18fet Infineon and yes the 2 Speed was made by Thud and yes the plans are open source and available here on ES... (Check Thuds post above for link to drawings) These 2 speeds are da'bomb fellas you get to keep the motor in its most efficient 'range' longer, and the whole waaa :: click :: WAAAA thang is pretty damn cool IMHO hehe...

cheers fellas...

KiM