"Da bomb" cargo bike + Transmag 3kW / MAC 2kW / HS3548

I'm talking about the horizontal ones. I guess that can be difficult to see in the picture.. two large horizontal tubes are joining the frame together, and are uncapped. This is not good... O_O

I sat on the back of the frame, whacked it as hard as i could with a hammer, etc. But i ain't settling with that anyway.. O_O
 
neptronix said:
Rule #76; if Chalo is heavily opposed to it, it's probably a good idea... 8) :mrgreen:
Rule #89; if you find that a certain design characteristic is pleasurable or desirable, and Chalo comes in and tells you it isn't, then you can be sure you are......
Click to expand...

LoL.... well Nep, get yourself a 1983 model 10 speed racer, with steel rims laced with spokes as thick as human hair (tensioned correctly of course) and you would see your in the wrong my friend :p

KiM
 
Yeah, well... :mrgreen:

Anyway, the frame has gone back to the welder to get the ends capped off.
The transmagnetics motor is here.. and of course, i had to pull it apart as soon as i got it :D

transmag_06.jpg


transmag_11.jpg


transmag_18.jpg


transmag_10.jpg


The stator + magnet assy are awfully dinky in real life, taking up about half of the space internally, the rest of the space being the intake and exhaust.

This is kinda like a large RC motor wound down to 70-75kv? haven't fired it up yet.. will get a more exact kv later.
Efficiency apparently peaks in the 92% zone? holy smokes.. i dunno how that works out. The windings are super tight and precise on this motor, but the laminations are just 0.5mm. Low pole count, plus a really wide stator may be the ticket, i dunno.

Just a hair shy of 11lbs.. that's 2 pounds heavier than the MAC motor and it can output about 1kW continuous more when both are on 48v, even at 85%. But with the cooling scheme of the MAC VS this, guess which one can sustain that longer ;)

I bet this motor is really happy on 72v :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

The challenge will be finding a good way to mount this thing..
 
Thanks for the motor porn. I didn't have the heart to take mine apart. Looks like there is plenty of room to rewind with more copper if you are so inclined
 
drewjet said:
Thanks for the motor porn. I didn't have the heart to take mine apart. Looks like there is plenty of room to rewind with more copper if you are so inclined
Click to expand...

+1 - excellent motorpr0n!

I like how they gave some thought to air cooling. Can't wait to hear what you find about the performance...
 
Ya, kinda makes me want to shaft mount a fan onto my MAC motor first to see how it does with real cooling.

mini_bomb2.jpg


mini_bomb3.jpg


Anyway the frame is back from the welder, this time i hired a guy who does TIG welding and does excellent work. He did the rest of the touchup. The top of the frame should be as strong as the bottom now.

Found a very close approximation of the original paint and gave 'er a spray job.

Now i just have to come up with a mounting scheme for the MAC motor. Easier said than done, but i have some ideas.

The transmagnetics motor is a bit wide and may be a pain to mount. I said i'd test the 2kW MAC around this time last year. So i gotta have some discipline and make good on that first :lol:
 
It's rather amazing how much time and money i have spent trying to get this bike working. I'm still going. I've got a plate on one side of the bike ( like i had before when the bike is longer ), but i realized i need another plate on the other side for the dual reduction. I think the alignment will likely be flimsy and incorrect though and i'm worried about that.

I should have just hacked off the rear of this bike and had a chromoly rectangle rear welded onto the front triangle. Life would be much easier. I'd be up a few hundred $ and would be done now, enjoying riding this thing all spring.

I am giving serious thought to eliminating the rear triangulation bar, then making a big plate on the bottom that easily mounts the motor, jackshaft bearings, idler, etc.

Do you think i can get away with it?

file.php


I see that drewjet's bike doesn't have any triangulation.
 
neptronix said:
It's rather amazing how much time and money i have spent trying to get this bike working. I'm still going. I've got a plate on one side of the bike ( like i had before when the bike is longer ), but i realized i need another plate on the other side for the dual reduction. I think the alignment will likely be flimsy and incorrect though and i'm worried about that.

I should have just hacked off the rear of this bike and had a chromoly rectangle rear welded onto the front triangle. Life would be much easier. I'd be up a few hundred $ and would be done now, enjoying riding this thing all spring.

I am giving serious thought to eliminating the rear triangulation bar, then making a big plate on the bottom that easily mounts the motor, jackshaft bearings, idler, etc.

Do you think i can get away with it?
Click to expand...

Neps: If you think you should have just hacked off the rear and had a chromoly rectangle welded in, then do THAT. You OUGHT to have the bike you WISH, not a mish-mash that you're unhappy with. You can set aside the rear of the "da bomb" for a future project, since it's a complete rear section as-is.
 
Yeah you're probably right.
I spent another hour measuring and visualizing things in the garage and came up with a plan. It's going to be a tight fit, but i think it will work fine with the triangulation bar.

I found out that i can use 1 inch electrical accessory clamps + rubber to get a good grip and linkage to the frame. This will help out on the side that does not handle a lot of torque, i think. The other side where the jackshaft will be ( closer to the wheel ) will be a lot stronger, so maybe this will be ok; we'll see :)

I got this far today:

mini_bomb4.jpg


With this idea, i will be able to use washers to get just the right spacing & get the chain at the right angle, which i know is going to be a problem due to all the weird angles on these tubes, even the side bars as well.

This mount should work with the transmagnetic motor as well, which is just about a pound and a half heavier.

Next time i am definitely going with the chromoly rear rectangle, but i think this is gonna work!!
 
I used relatively thick steel tubes for mine, plus if you look at it, it is a triangle, though stretched.

Why do you want a jackshaft? I run mine with single reduction, less complication, less noise.
 
Yeah, that won't work with the way my frame is tapered inwards :/

Also, the shaft on the MAC motor is 7/8", which makes for typically higher tooth counts on the primary sprocket, and that sucks :/ ... but i can go with crazy ratios with a dual reduction system. I have the stuff for doing a 10:1.
 
Ermagherd...
In a caffeine and alcohol fueled rage, i spent at the very least, 6 hours in the garage cutting and drilling and fitting and...
i'm so damn close!!!!!

minibomb_reduction1.jpg


minibomb_reduction2.jpg


I think i am finally barking up the right tree.
 
Gundam-it!

I'm in the garage, thinking 'i am going to get this damn thing done today!!!'

minibomb_reduction3.jpg


Of course the MAC motor doesn't fit inside the way i wanted it to. After re positioning everything and drilling the holes again, the darn thing doesn't fit and there's no fix. Not unless i take the cover off - which would be a really unscientific way of testing this motor and putting it through it's paces.
OK, so i design a little motor plate and decide to let it hang off the side. Why not. This is just for testing, screw it if the weight balance is off on the bike while i am testing this motor, rite? I'm so close to done with this, it doesn't matter cuz i'll run the transmagnetics motor later..

ffuu.jpg


Then i realize that the 2 times i ordered #35 chain links, i got #40 chain links.
Cock blocked!! can't even get the primary phase ready to be lined up!!!

I've got some on order from usabearingsandbelts. Oh, i wish i could pick this stuff up locally rather than be constantly delayed. There ought to be an eBike DIY supershop...
 
Yeah not my local ones :(
go kart / scooter places here also only tend to cater to OEM parts and just look at me funny when i try to order something you know, standard.

http://www.electricmotorsport.com/store/ems_ev_parts_sprockets_chains_drive.php

Well i'm a little cranky cuz i just found out about these.. i hunted for days for all the right parts and this never came up in my google searches, nor mentioned by anyone on the forum. So anyway, 11t eh.. and #41... i can either machine that down to #410 BMX size, or just run a #41 to the rear..

This means i don't need a comically sized 72t to get a 5.5:1-6:1. 60T-66T would work.

http://www.outriderusa.com/Chainring-Adapter-130mm-BCD-p/11chainringadapter.htm

This looks like it has a TON of inward offset, more than the tophat adapter than i have.
Now the issue is finding a huge chainring. 60T or above and 1/8 preferably.

If i would have known about this a year ago, everything would be different for my 2kW MAC motor tests. Epic facepalm.

I've got one on order. I think i will disassemble my reduction system for the moment.
 
Still waiting on the single drive reduction parts.

I made a go at finishing the dual reduction, while i am waiting. Then i realized that my chainbreaker doesn't work on #35 chain. Argh. No local stores have #35 chain breakers either. Thought about brute forcing the chain apart, but i have a feeling that i'd damage the chain, bend it etc. so that idea has been tossed out.

I hate realizing that i need something and have to order it on the 'net and wait a week. It's happened so many times by now. Since i am the only person playing with small EVs in my area, it's not like i could hop over to a buddy's house and borrow anything like this. My garage is turning into an EV noah's ark; one of everything.

I will be well equipped for the apocalypse.

Oh, and i am going to start out with a 6.8:1 reduction ratio. I have big long hills to torture this motor on. Hills that have my 1500W MAC rig on the verge of melting itself down into scrap metal, and me on the verge of collapse from giving every watt my body can produce for a good period of time. :lol:

testhill5.png


Here's a good one near my house. Should be good for loading it up and finding it's limits.
 
A hammer and a pin punch, with a small 1/4" or so socket on the other side to support the chain makes a great chain breaker. If you dont care about the chain then you can use a grinder to make it easier.
 
Good thinking. Ghetto ingenuity is awesome :]
Oh well, the tool should be arriving tomorrow. I can wait.
6.8:1 should be fun.

Meanwhile the recumpence adapter came in today. Super nice unit. Provides 5/8inch ( 16-17mm? ) of inward offset; it's like an extreme version of the tophat adapter. As a bonus, 130mm BCD sprockets line up to it 100% perfectly, like magic. No play anywhere. Even bolts up on 29er wheel. Looking at it, i bet i could run a 70T bike sprocket, if such a thing ever existed anyway, lol.

Hard to justify spending $85 on a 1lb piece of aluminum, but considering all the money i have wasted thus far, it's worth every penny.
 
neptronix said:
Hard to justify spending $85 on a 1lb piece of aluminum,
Click to expand...

That's a strong sign you've never had to shop for airplane parts.
 
Oh thank god i never took that up as a hobby over this. :lol:
 
I was cruising used bike listsings and saw this:
http://www.hampshirebicycleexchange.com/node/456

This bike made me think of your "mid-tail" build objective. It's no good for avoiding being pitched by railroad tracks with that tiny front wheel, and it violates my personal maxim of not converting a bike with two sizes of tire. Nevertheless, the disc brakes, frame length and cargo carrying capability look awesome. That bike is practically screaming "convert me into your 100 mile ebike...NOW!" How freakin much lipo COULD you put on this bike?!?! It even comes with the dual kickstand already.

"How many licks does it take a kid to get to the center of HOC 18S LiPo?"
"One..."
"Two..."
"Three......Blam!"

Three!

JKB
 
Strange looking bike, looks like something they produced before they figured out a better cargo design like the edgerunner, hehe..

Okay, so the build has been going slow. Last night i thought i had everything nailed. Broke the chain and hooked it up to the right size, then realized my primary reduction shaft is off by about 10 degrees, so when i spun the motor, it was like 'clack clack clack' and, yeah... i've got more work to do.

It's hard to know what is 'straight' on this bike, with all the angles being what they are, so this will take some experimentation :/

My allergies out here have been awful this year, so my interest in being outside or doing anything on 2 wheels is on a low, my budget sucks too at the moment. Meh!

On the upside, i have a 7kv 45mm stator hub motor coming in soon - something i've been promised long ago. This will probably replace the 8T MAC on the other bike.
 
Got a little update...

I've have a custom 66T 130BCD #415 sprocket on the way, that will get hooked up to the recumpence adapter. I will ditch the 2 stage reduction in favor of this, because i don't feel confident in it. The sprocket should be in this week.

I also have an 11T #410 and 12T #415 sprocket for the MAC motor now, so i could run either 6:1 or 5.5:1, which i think are nice appropriate ratios for this motor :)

Managed to convince staton-inc to also produce me a 10T and 11T 15mm sprocket for the transmag. But i'm thinking that a 13T sprocket would be more adequate here for a 5:1, considering the power of the motor.

Anyway, there should be some movement on this build soon enough. The good weather of spring here in Utah is slowly going byebye.... gotta get this damn bike ready for the fall.
 
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