Downhill rims anyone ?

Joined
Jun 10, 2010
Messages
91
Location
Pennslyvania
OK on my search for a new rim and i came across thesehttp://www.amazon.com/Weinmann-DH-3...sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1335992193&sr=1-79 they look pretty good and they have to better than stock rims we all get when we get our rims from the that comes with various e-bike kits and the best thing about then is that they fit 12gauge spokes well at-least the ones found here in the link above i haven't tried them put yet but will soon as the when i have money to spend to buy them.

For our technical people here are the specs:http://www.weinmanntek.com/Products/DOWNHILL/DH39.htm
 
I'm not sure how big their balls are, calling that a Downhill wheel, but I imagine they carry their nuts in a sling.

The cost of an average grade set of spokes and nipples is $40 alone. More than that whole wheel. and the matching front wheel is only $30 :shock:

And a basic DH hub is still going to run $75, a basic bare DH rim is going to be more than $50.
Basically, that wheel has to be total crap to meet that price. And not even the good quality crap that you can fertilize your yard with when it failes as a wheel, but the drippy, watery kind of crap that Walmart won't even put on their bikes.


And... Coaster brake.... on a DH wheel? WFT? :shock: :shock: and :shock:

Avoid it like a chick with an adam's apple.
 
Sh*t !
I just spent 450$ for 2 used DH wheels,
when I could have bought a dozen of those Weinmann DH39
and break my neck for damn cheap :twisted:
 
I run the Weinmann DM32 rims for both of the electrics I built. The units I got hold of were already drilled for 12G spokes. I used a dremel to make the nipples straight so have weakened them a bit with no troubles. Don't do the down hill but some 4-5K road miles on each of the electrics and hundred plus on trails with no problems. Hit some pretty bad stuff and crashed as well rims stayed straight. These are a bit heavy, inexpensive double wall rims that seem to werq well for me. They are pinned and not welded but that has not been a problem with the caliper or disk brakes. Gross bike weight is 250LBS.
I will be looking into a couple of the wider wheels for the rims as they should be even stronger for a mid-drive I have planned.
Thanks for the link.
 
Drunkskunk said:
I'm not sure how big their balls are, calling that a Downhill wheel, but I imagine they carry their nuts in a sling.

The cost of an average grade set of spokes and nipples is $40 alone. More than that whole wheel. and the matching front wheel is only $30 :shock:

And a basic DH hub is still going to run $75, a basic bare DH rim is going to be more than $50.
Basically, that wheel has to be total crap to meet that price. And not even the good quality crap that you can fertilize your yard with when it failes as a wheel, but the drippy, watery kind of crap that Walmart won't even put on their bikes.


And... Coaster brake.... on a DH wheel? WFT? :shock: :shock: and :shock:

Avoid it like a chick with an adam's apple.

LOL i thought i post it what i always say "Don't knock it till you try it" still they have to be better that those stock Crystalyte rims i have.
My first choice is really to get some 26" Velocity psycho's ive seen good things about those rims.

Don't make me start on Walmart their policy is the cheaper the better and if it holds together its good to sale so it can break after warranty so they can buy more
 
If you're going to relace, I'd suggest a Mavic rim.

Not expensive, and they are the main name brand.
 
No problem Biohazardman.

I will relace my wheel soon it's just that its so many to choose from i have a Weinmann xm260 on my front rim and it has taken a beating like many pot holes that will make a almost quarter of your rim disappear with my big but on it and i didn't flip off the bike due to rim folding and funny thing the rim is still true .

I wonder are some of you guys are basing the wheel cause of the price or experience ?
 
We don't say it is a bad wheel, but it is not a DH wheel.
Pretending it is, is ridiculous.
 
Yup we doesn't want to pretend anything is downhill unless it is or bike parts aren't the only things that can get broke. Sounds like you have had good luck with the Weinmann stuff as well. Wider should be a bit stronger than what you have. I wish you luck in your build. Price will usually reflect quality but there are bargains here and there. One just needs to remember we are trusting our lives to the parts we choose to put on our bikes.
 
biohazardman said:
One just needs to remember we are trusting our lives to the parts we choose to put on our bikes.
Exactly, and when a manufacturer offers a DH wheel that isn't up to the task, some beginners might believe it and finish in a wheelchair. No DH rider is stupid enough to ride a coaster brake, but novices might be lead to do it believing the add is truth.

I have seen Wallbikes being called DH bikes by stupid salesmen in bike shops. This could lead innocent kids to follow DH riders in the mountain and actually try to ride that kind of crap 50 Mph down a ski slope, trusting the bike is made for that.
 
Biohazardman, Well Said !!!

Any recommendation for a wide strong rim in the 30's -40's mm range ?

I personally like to over build things with those Weinmann's rims was only for a quick fix except from my front rim i like that one

I'm not a real hard rider and IMO they are better than the stock rims we get with our motors also i was just going take the spokes and hub out of that rim to replace my Crystalyte rim cause it sucks and sometimes when i make a turn it feels like it flexes and i know the spokes are tight I've been building my own wheels for a little over two years now so i know its not the way I'm building the wheels .
 
Best off checking the reviews on mtbr.com . Actually what I would do personally is look at the rims at chain reaction or somewhere similar, then cross reference them with reviews on mtbr.
 
Be careful with the Mavic.

I got one and while yes the rim is essentially built to withstand nuclear warfare, the design of eyelets restricts the thickness of the spokes dramatically.

On my HT3540 you could actually see through the spoke holes on the motor due to them having to be that small to fit the eyelets on the rim :(

Was this a problem? never got to find out. the 5hitbox 3540 blew up 2 hrs after i started using it in true crystalyte style.
 
Tincan said:
Be careful with the Mavic.

I got one and while yes the rim is essentially built to withstand nuclear warfare, the design of eyelets restricts the thickness of the spokes dramatically.

On my HT3540 you could actually see through the spoke holes on the motor due to them having to be that small to fit the eyelets on the rim :(

Was this a problem? never got to find out. the 5hitbox 3540 blew up 2 hrs after i started using it in true crystalyte style.
That is the same with almost any rim. You need to use 13-14 butted spokes, or drill the rim to use bigger.
 
O
MadRhino said:
. You need to use 13-14 butted spokes, or drill the rim to use bigger.
Only thing about drilling to make the rim is the it can possibly degrade the integrity of the rim.

So people what are our real option of using bigger gauge spokes on bike rims ?
 
darkshirikens said:
O
MadRhino said:
. You need to use 13-14 butted spokes, or drill the rim to use bigger.
Only thing about drilling to make the rim is the it can possibly degrade the integrity of the rim.

So people what are our real option of using bigger gauge spokes on bike rims ?
Rims are drilled when you buy them , they were not born with holes. Drilling them again won't change a bit to the rim strength. You can also buy rims that are not drilled, letting you drill your own spoke count and size. I drill them both sides after removing the eyelets, inside to insert nipple washers, and outside to fit the 12 ga nipples at an angle. I have a Sun BFM here, that survived riding the stairs, and jumping 2 or 3 ft everyday for a whole season, laced on a Clyte X5 with 2.7 DH tires.
 
MadRhino said:
darkshirikens said:
O
MadRhino said:
. You need to use 13-14 butted spokes, or drill the rim to use bigger.
Only thing about drilling to make the rim is the it can possibly degrade the integrity of the rim.

So people what are our real option of using bigger gauge spokes on bike rims ?
Rims are drilled when you buy them , they were not born with holes. Drilling them again won't change a bit to the rim strength. You can also buy rims that are not drilled,

Yea i know they aren't born with holes lol , But everyone doesn't want to use a drill or has the ability to use a drill properly to make such adjustments.
 
My Weinmann DH39 wheels arrived from Niagra cycle works today. http://www.amazon.com/Weinmann-DH-39-Alloy-Nutted-Black/dp/B000C15EBW/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top/181-7745159-8692242 I bought a couple of the fronts as I am in need of the rims. There has been some debate on his post about these not being suitable for downhill but that's what Weinmann says they are. http://www.weinmanntek.com/Products/DOWNHILL/List.htm It does not matter to me as I don't do the downhill thing. They are a nice wide, heavy, pinned rim with well tensioned 12G stainless spokes on a cheap nutted non disk hub. Mine arrived with a so-so finish and some burrs around the nipple holes on the inside of the rim. Some will need to be dressed most will be OK with some decent rim tape. Whole wheel cost less than the DM32 rim only I have been buying so I feel these are a good buy as they will be even stronger.

DM39.jpg
 
great rims but be prepared to file the burrs around the spoke holes and use some hefty rim tape. also, if you're not using one as a motor rim, i recommend unscrewing the spokes and relacing with a better hub. otherwise, they are perfect for cutting the spokes and putting in a hub motor with sapim 12 gauge.
 
Back
Top