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E-S Greyborg owners' pics

hillzofvalp said:
I'm just saying that for onroad use, that thing will most definitely pull some suspicion from cops, and I don't have time to worry about that. At my lake house in northern Michigan, it would be a different story, because there are no cops and there are plenty of trails.

I'm going to have to argue with you on the safety of that bike vs. other tried and true mountain bike hosts. This bike has plenty of steel, sure. But how much does this thing weigh? It may "feel" more stable because of how big it is, but in the right conditions, it will be like any other steel, thickened fork ended bike.

On my surly karate monkey, I have found that in a vertical configuration in the triangle (2" wide battery box), I can fit 100 cells (.759kWh). In the horizontal config, it would estimate that it would excede 1.5kWh.

The Greyborg is asking to have a large power supply and charger built in... That would be very nice.


1.charger fitted : http://i974.photobucket.com/albums/ae230/konzaltis/endless/Saudi/Rimc/IMG_2502.jpg
2. frame has less than 4 kg
3. you can fit as many batteries in surly frame but the thing will have no style and it will only be a chunky bike . the difference between normal mountain bike fitted with e kit and this one is that greyborg is designed to be an e bike and mtb to be a mtb...so what do you think : what is more safe ?
4. suspension travel could be bigger but when you try the bike you will be saying more or less things like : ahhh.. ohhh :)))
5. if you attract cops , make sure they aint gay :) just kidding....look... any bike fitted with a pile of 1.5kw baterries is going to draw attention ...even your bike ..

Sorry for this ... but Hal and my first Greyborg ride where my face melted in a big smile is one of the main reasons why i got interested in ebikes and started making my frame designs as we speek so dont touch my hero and his bikes! :)) :twisted:
 
Spacey said:
Spacey said:
29917.jpg


That was the model I was looking at with the 850lb spring

Just ordered this, will let you know what it is like when it arrives.

just ordered it too... :D
 
Do full suspension ebikes on the pavement lose much traction?

My Greyborg has Rock Shox Boxers on the front, and Rock Shox rear shock, with Hookworms. I don't seem to lose any traction (doesn't feel that way), but the handling is amazing, and the ride is unbelievably smooth. Stuff (eg massive potholes etc.) I wouldn't dare approach at speed on my hardtail I just fly over. I have never felt this safe at high speed on any other of my ebikes.
 
Hello,

I made a little simulation using:
X5303 motor
24s 20ah of lifepo4
24" wheel

To find out that the range would be close to 25km in a perfect 0% straight line.

24ssimulation.jpg



Its this what you guys are seeing??? Because im yet to built my greyb and I was expecting alot more range.

thanks
 
5303 is made for high speed, and it is not a good choice.

5306 is made for huge moment, and for better range.

Our custom made motors beat any Crystalyte product.
 
Its this what you guys are seeing??? Because im yet to built my greyb and I was expecting alot more range.

I used to use a 5303 on a 26" rim, but I now have a HS35 in a 26 inch rim, on my Greyborg (I find my 5303 and HS35 very similar in performance). I just got back in from a 22.91km ride, and I used 13.47AH in that time. I was WOT the whole way and didn't pedal at all. Don't know if that is of any assistance.

Cheers, Phil.
 
Hey folks
Is anyone of you Greybeards going for A123?
Packs from cell_man should be 24S 4P, or 12S 8P in each box (78V 9.2Ah or 39V 18.4Ah)

Paul (cell_man) said If it was a little over 100mm wide (that should be ok) and about 320mm long, you could fit 24S 4P, or 12S 8P in each box 78V 9.2Ah or 39V 18.4Ah
So, since you have 300x150x100(108 for Phil measurement)... :roll: what's the plan?

Cheers
 
18,4ah is not bad, and round cells are really strong, but...

Cell_man should have 20ah pouch cells in a month or so and they are lighter.
Accountant said we could fit thoses cells inside the frame, but I would love accurate measurement of the compartiments.
 
question: what have you done for quick release/open system for the plastic canopy? and how do you lock/secure it?
 
question: what have you done for quick release/open system for the plastic canopy? and how do you lock/secure it?

I used ComradeGerry's idea of installing Rivnuts on all the places that the canopy bolts go through, then I bolted (with M5 allen bolts - you can use M4) all the canopy on, except for the bottom part on the non chainring side, which is strapped on (looks dodgy, but allows fast removal), I take that off to access all my wiring (eg series connections and main switch etc..) which is housed in the bottom part, which is bare of battery). I then access this bottom part to undo the series connection to charge my 20S pack as two 10s packs (I have two boxes I built out of aluminium angle in the top forward part and the bottom part, each box holds 10S4P). I am looking at buying a 84V bulk charger, so that I can then just have charge leads coming out of the bike - ie they would be externally accessible to the panels - and then all the panels will be bolted on. I have never needed to unbolt my panels (other than the strapped one I use to access to charge) since I built it. And if I did, would be happy to undo all the bolts anyway.

I have never locked it up anywhere, as everywhere I ride it (eg work, friends places) I am able to leave it in a secure area. I would be pretty paranoid about leaving it locked up in a public place, it attracts so much attention. Every time I go to the local shops and come out the front door someone is looking at it wanting to talk to me about it. But you could just lock through the rear swing arm, and I think as long as your lock was good enough that would be secure enough.
 
greyborg face.JPG
Hi all, Corrado here, an Italian in New Zealand.
ASSIMILATED!
After 18500 km box and frame (the baby was looking the view outside enjoing the trip) looked horrible
but had just minor damages, some scratch and a couple of bended battery supports,
nothing unusual, same of my shippings from Italy when getting devastated food, I call them post nuclear boxes.

Thanks Accountant and Hal, I am speachless, GB frame looks great.
I will make it AWESOME...but please don't ask me how for now, I have six different options :lol:
My plan is use this bike for a NZ South Island road trip next summer, one of the most amazing place in the world.
Entire trip is about 2000km.
I need the battery last for long
with enough speed to not be an obstacle for cars.


Nothing decided so far, I was keen to wait until have the frame in my hands to start
but I already asked a couple of questions by PM to some of you my friends. Thanks for your kindness.
My Greyborg is already asking about where her sisters are :lol:

Accountant said we could fit thoses cells inside the frame, but I would love accurate measurement of the compartiments.
OK now I can help on this matter.
Accurate measurement of compartiments are very difficult to take
because of the inserted triangular reinforcement and headway support
also tubes became very narrow as close to the head tube area,
but that doesn't mean you can't use that space
as you could do if your not using all the height allowed (157mm in some point of upper frame) and going for less than max height clearance.

So, it's easiest to say what kind of regular rettangular box you can actually fit in it,
the most depending from the height of your pack.
EG

Upper compartment:
If pack is H 150cm max box clearance looks
as we all know (Philistine's box)
300x150x108

But you could want build a
mm 310x140x108 and it will fit
or a
mm 296x155x105 and will fit as well :D

Lower compartment is indentical story but :
As per Philistine's book perviously on here named:
"WTF-this box won't fit-solution"
you need to left some clearance for de "indentetion" (thanks again Phil) of the canopy .
That means that if your pack is mm 300x 150x108 will fit if pushed all way up, as much as you can.

But if you don't need 108mm but you're happy with just 105mm wide you
have more lenght for your pack and can go
mm 310x150x105 or 296x155x104 as well

I hope this mess make some sense. I was playing with Lego to simulate bricks and works well.
Anyway Greyborg frame is handmade, so I think potentially my frame could be slightly different from yours of 1/2 mm?
I think unless modifing the frame it's going to be very difficoult fit A123 twin packs
but Accountant confirmed Hal was riding a A123 battery on his GB
and I would like to know more about it, what kind of cells for first, because I can't see how they could fit.

question: what have you done for quick release/open system for the plastic canopy? and how do you lock/secure it?

I think I will first try to attach canopies with some powerful magnetic clip (it's StEEL for Lord sake!!!Should work??!! :roll: ),
Rivnuts is for sure the most strong and elegant build solution so far. I'll go that way after failing with magnets.

I will not let this bike anywhere, the bike will sleep with me,
unless I will be able to find some affordable insurance.
This is going to be eXXXpensive.

Ride safe and GO GREYBORGS! Anyone coming to NZ for the Rugby World Cup?

Cheers
 
Ypedal said:
Damn those are nice...

My next bike will be a bent trike, but after that..... this may be it !!! :D

and... ???

I honestly doubt that after experiencing recumbents, you would want to go back on standard bikes ;)
 
wojtek said:
I honestly doubt that after experiencing recumbents, you would want to go back on standard bikes ;)


That depends...
Were I ride there is alot of traffic jam a shitload amount of big potholes a no bycicle paths.
:)
 
Hi,

I have just finished designing a torque arm with disk mount for the greyborg. It allows for chain tentioning when using a single sprocket setup. It ensures no spreading of the greyborg drop outs. Made from 4mm stainless steel. Solid.
If anyone wants one $50US includes postage. Can discount for more than one. PM me.

PICT0143.JPG

PICT0142.JPG

PICT0177.JPG

PICT0137.JPG
 
As I said on the Yuba thread, it is a genius solution Kiwi. I have sent PM and cash, you've managed to solve the disc brake and torque issue all in one solution.

Love the Greyborg face Cicada, you will be even more excited when you get it together and take it for a spin. I just can't get over how much fun my Greyborg is.

On the topic of batteries, I got 20S4P Lipo in mine, but I don't know how much more I could have fit, not a huge amount. I did leave the bottom part where the canopy indents clear, I keep my series/parralell and charging connections all down in that little space.

Cheers, Phil.
 
Kiwi said:
Hi,

I have just finished designing a torque arm with disk mount for the greyborg. It allows for chain tentioning when using a single sprocket setup. It ensures no spreading of the greyborg drop outs. Made from 4mm stainless steel. Solid.
If anyone wants one $50US includes postage. Can discount for more than one. PM me.

PICT0143.JPG

hi kiwi
that plate is a really good way of solving a number of issues in one go, an excellent idea. but please dont put that downward facing little slot in front of the top caliper bolt (not the triangle, but the little cut in front of it) -there's already a high stress concentration under heavy braking at the corner above this, and that slot is perfectly placed to weaken it, and fold or crack. if you want to take some weight out, there are way bigger chunks to chop out above the axle if you want, but just not there. :wink:
 
Yes that slot is perfectly placed to weaken it, that was the intention. The arm needs to be bent inwards 10mm to meet the front tab on the frame. So at the first slot it bends in, and the second little slot it bends back straight again. With the slots it helps localise the bend line to make a tidy bend radius, it also means it can be bent with out a press. I have left 6mm on either side, plus the greyborg dropouts are resonably chunky too. I personally dont think it will fail there, but will have another look at it, perhaps run it through some FEA and see how it fairs, might beable to reduce the size of the slot.

..later... I agree. As I am bending these myself, and I can controll the position and quality of the bend, there is no real need for the bend relief. I still am happy with the strength of the above model, but will remove slots in future arms. Cheers.
 
Beautifully done :!: How much force did your FEA come up with to distort the bracket at the slot? SS is very strong and stretchy material compared to Aluminum and I made my similar bracket out of 0.250" Al. No sign of cracks, YET. The maximum torque available, before the tire slips, is quite low on the rear wheel.
 
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