EBayEV setup questions...

[jackatfsi]

Hi All;

Got a few questions now that I'm putting things back into the car........and I imagine I'll have a lot more...

The setup is 10 12V batteries in series....they were originally wired w/ size 1 cables......the motor is an ADC 9.1" and the original controller is the Curtis 1221B (400 A).......I have to replace the connectors anyway (top vs side mount) so I'm going w/ 2/0 which I would have thought would have been used in the first place (or am I missing something ?)

I have a spare 1221C controller but don't know if the "B" models are unreliable enough to warrant replacement right up front or wait.....both of these are untested as far as I'm concerned at this point.

The main contactor is a Curtis SW190-100. The SW190 shows as a 150 Amp unit on the Curtis site. Are contactors rated as peak or average current ??? I need to add a second contactor to break the string in the center when charging w/ the set of dual chargers. I suppose I could use each of the contact pairs seperately to do it as long as they arn't already using them in parallel to get the current rating up (and the voltage rating down ?)

I've already noted the recomendation not to use the plug braking w/ these controllers......thoughts ?

Thanks

Jack

 

[TylerDurden]

Hiya Jack,

I have assumed the ratings are average. I do not know for certain. I do know those stupid contactors are stupidly expensive.

If it's just for charging, I'd consider manual DC breakers. Cheaper, but not automatic.

My Vanguards have 1/0. (2/0 is in the plan here too.)

Kelly Controllers seems to have decent pricing on contactors, you might drop em a line about your Qs. :wink:


BTW, your opp-charging ports look great!

 

[Link]

I think relay contactors are rated by their switching current, e.g. how many amps it can take when flipping on and off without welding.

 

[fechter]

Most relays and contactors can handle more current when they are closed than when switching. If your controller goes shorted and you have a runaway motor, you need that switching rating to make sure you can stop the motor. I wouldn't be afraid to go over the rating a little bit.

If the two chargers have an isolated output, there's no need to break the pack when charging. Actually, only one charger needs an isolated output. If the outputs have one side grounded, you can disconnect the ground inside on one of them to allow tandem charging.

You can use an ohmmeter to measure between the output wires and the ground pin on the power plug. Also verify the charger has some kind of transformer inside.

 

[jackatfsi]

The marine tandem chargers have only one transformer w/ a common ground side but two independent charging circuits. Could get away w/ one set of isolation relays, but its only pennies to isolate both sides.

The present SW190-100 contactor has both sets of contacts wired in parallel and it's in series w/ a fast-acting 400A fuze.......if those are 150A contacts x 2 sets then I could split the pack as is (?)......any idea how contact diameter relates to current ??