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Ebike excessive Heat hub motor

Sidotian

10 W
Joined
Jun 24, 2017
Messages
85
Location
Buffalo New York
Hello every one so I have a 36v 500w ebike and a yuyang controller running on 12 s the amp draw from battery to controller is adjustable full throttle the bike is pulling 19amps with controller in the lowest possible settings...the hub motor get super hot I can't touch it for more than 3 seconds. I know from RC brushless experience that the rule of thumb is you should be able to touch the motor for at least 7 seconds I feel obviously that's just a quick test and is just ment for a "on the go" tests and isn't vary accurate ,but my main question is how hot can the hub motor stability run at with out causing damage to the motor
 
swap yellow and blue over on both the hall and the phase wires had the same issue with that brand of controller ( they way they tell you to run it runs the phases as 2 3 1 if you swap those wires it runs as 1 2 3 and alot cooler and more power )
 
Awesome that makes perfect sense I have the phase wires like that already but not the hall I'm gona be switching those two when I get home hopefully I didnt hurt the motor
 
Sidotian said:
Awesome that makes perfect sense I have the phase wires like that already but not the hall I'm gona be switching those two when I get home hopefully I didnt hurt the motor

in my experience it will only spin if hall 1 matches phase 1 hall 2 matches phase 2 and hall 3 matches phase 3 so you probably have the pairings right ( when you buy those controllers they tell you to interchange the green and yellow phase wires and interchange green and yellow for the hall sensors ) after that it run like your motor currently is running so i swapped yellow and blue on both the phase and the halls and it worked 100%
 
when you swap wires on the halls you need to do the same for the matching phase wires are the phase wires so try swapping the phase wires aswell labled MU MV MW ? and the halls MU MV MW or ABC ?
 
Sidotian said:
I'm not sure what there labeled I haven't opened up the controller or motor yet I hopefully want to avoid that..

i am looking at my notes now to see if i put anything down that will help you do this faster
 
this is how i had to have it on my motor
phase
g=y
y=g
b=b
halls
g =g
y=y
b=b

in total there are 36 combinations 4 will spin 2 will spin 1 will have tork and power there is a list kicking about so you can tick them off as you try them

have you got the phase amps set to a low number as you could just be dumping to much power threw the motor
 
Sidotian said:
There's also a setting to switch the hall degree from 60 or 120 havent messed with that yet... It's at 90 now ...

not 100% sure if any combo would work if you had that set wrong i have only had to do this once with one of these controllers and at first i had the same issue you do but after looking at the motor internals and the controller wireing diagram i worked out the mistake in the instructions i was given

this is what i was told
( There is one important thing that I still would like to mention in relation to wiring: very likely you may need to swap (to interchange) the green and yellow phase wires of the controller with the green and yellow phase wires of your brushless motor. Basically what I mean is: you will need to connect the green phase wire of the controller with the yellow phase wire of your motor. And the yellow phase wire of the controller to connect with the green phase wire of your motor. Exactly the same procedure should also be done with the Hall sensor wires: to connect the green Hall wire of the controller with the yellow Hall wire of your motor, and to connect the yellow Hall wire of the controller to the green Hall wire of your motor. This is just a default with this controller, all of these controllers required such interchange of wiring with five of our different test motors, and all functions perfectly and silent.

All the rest of the wires should be connected as per usual, no extra recommendations.)

after that i realized that doing that made the phases work as 2 3 1 and the motor and controller run hot so i swapped yellow and blue on the phase and yellow and blue on the halls and now both controller and motor run cool
(PLEASE NOTE THAT I DID NOT CHANGE THEM BACK TO STANDARD BEFORE SWAPPING THE 2ND PAIR OF WIRES SO I DID BOTH THE SWAPS I WAS TOLD AND THE YELLOW AND BLUE SWAPS )

thats all my notes had to say but im sure i can help you work this out
 
Sidotian said:
Your awesome dude ... It works but it's spinning backwards what wires do I swap for that?
before you change anything lift the wheel up and look at the no load amps then set the controller to reverse mode with 100% reverse speed and see what the amps are for that

then put it back in forward mode swap the wires over as follows



you need to swap over whats connected to controller phase blue with the controller phase green and whats connected to the controller phase blue with controller phase yellow

if that puts it back to what you had to start with the issue is probably to many phase amps / to much power for the motor on minimum settings the controller is 50 phase amps 20 battery amps ( 50v is 1kw ) (75v is 1.5kw ) your motor might not be able to handle that
 
Sidotian said:
It spins super smooth to just backwards... Before it's was clunky

the wire swaps i just gave is just how to flip phase 1 for 3 and hall 1 for 3 making it spin the other way if you dont care about 100% functionality of the settings just put it in reverse mode
 
Sidotian said:
Your awesome dude ... It works but it's spinning backwards what wires do I swap for that?
When you have a perfect backward combination, you are at a max of 2 tries to find the perfect forward. Swap any 2 phases and leave the third as is, then the good HALL combination can be only one of the two other possibilities than the one that you have right now.
 
MadRhino said:
Sidotian said:
Your awesome dude ... It works but it's spinning backwards what wires do I swap for that?
When you have a perfect backward combination, you are at a max of 2 tries to find the perfect forward. Swap any 2 phases and leave the third as is, then the good HALL combination can be only one of the two other possibilities than the one that you have right now.
i am fairly sure the wire swaps i gave are correct i looked at the wiring diagram to get them
 
If you have the same motor/controller combo it should be perfect.

I gave the info for anyone who do proceed by elimination process to find the perfect combination. There are alway 3 perfect combinations, out of the 36 possible combinations with any 3 phase motor. 123, 231, 312 should all be perfect. If not, the controller has a sotware problem.
 
MadRhino said:
If you have the same motor/controller combo it should be perfect.

I gave the info for anyone who do proceed by elimination process to find the perfect combination. There are alway 3 perfect combinations, out of the 36 possible combinations with any 3 phase motor. 123, 231, 312 should all be perfect. If not, the controller has a sotware problem.

all the yuyangking Bluetooth controllers that i have seen dont like running as 231 or 312 they get hot and run with judder and for some reason the throtal response goes out of wack must be some software bug :/ also they dont seem to take into account that most motors have the phases wired as 132 so the colors are off making you swap blue for green on the phases
 
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