Electric downhill/freeride bike
- Thread starter Ratking
- Start date
Hello
I've been looking for a cheap, but solid throttle with the right feel for a long time. I have never trusted the cheap Chinese one, and with good reason. If the throttle hits the ground it can easily break the plastic tabs inside the housing and cause full throttle. My knee and hands still carry the evidence :lol:
Then you have the magura electric throttle. It is still plastic and I've read that the "feel is wrong" compared to a gasser. That is why I wanted to make myself one instead, preferably a thumb throttle with a solid return spring and good resolution.
I got the idea of using a gear shifter after looking for a good base part to start off with. It is cheap, main part is made of aluminum and the design is cool enough. And I already had the part of course
I just had to make a few new brackets out of 2 mm stainless steel and glued the magnets for the hall sensor in place. The range is a bit on the long side, but I can easily make another one if it is too much. As for now I want a bit of throw to have good modulation.
The hall sensor is not glued in place yet, this one is broken. But the concept should be clear enough. The spring is below the metal sheet and is firm enough.
The throttle is made without any other tools than a dremel and other basic equipment. Anyone could make it cheap and fast.
I've been looking for a cheap, but solid throttle with the right feel for a long time. I have never trusted the cheap Chinese one, and with good reason. If the throttle hits the ground it can easily break the plastic tabs inside the housing and cause full throttle. My knee and hands still carry the evidence :lol:
Then you have the magura electric throttle. It is still plastic and I've read that the "feel is wrong" compared to a gasser. That is why I wanted to make myself one instead, preferably a thumb throttle with a solid return spring and good resolution.
I got the idea of using a gear shifter after looking for a good base part to start off with. It is cheap, main part is made of aluminum and the design is cool enough. And I already had the part of course
I just had to make a few new brackets out of 2 mm stainless steel and glued the magnets for the hall sensor in place. The range is a bit on the long side, but I can easily make another one if it is too much. As for now I want a bit of throw to have good modulation. The hall sensor is not glued in place yet, this one is broken. But the concept should be clear enough. The spring is below the metal sheet and is firm enough.
The throttle is made without any other tools than a dremel and other basic equipment. Anyone could make it cheap and fast.
Attachments
gwhy!1
100 kW
nice... good way of doing it 8) ... if you are going to use a crazyman/lyen controller then you will need to make sure that the max mag in its max throttle position is at least a few mm away as if the voltage is above 4v into the controller then the controller will cut out..
I have finally finished my hardware interface to allow me to use a proper throttle 8) , and it works 100% better than anything else on the market :wink:
I have finally finished my hardware interface to allow me to use a proper throttle 8) , and it works 100% better than anything else on the market :wink:
crossbreak
1 MW
awesome! So many good ideas here, gues I have to mod a motorcycle throttle to get it to work as good as this one 
Sad that there are only crappy throttles on the market ATM but this will change as soon as EV gets to the masses!
Sad that there are only crappy throttles on the market ATM
but this will change as soon as EV gets to the masses!
gwhy!1
100 kW
when I have worked out a price for them I will post in the for sale section 
Lebowski
10 MW
For my recumbent i'm going to use a cable operated throttle. I bought a Sram half grip rotary shifter and removed the ratcheting spring. At the other end of the cable will be a slide potentiometer (as opposed to a rotary potmeter). I was thinking, if you keep the ratchety bit then you can use it as a cheap cruisecontrol, when your controller is speed and not torque based that is...
gwhy!1
100 kW
The trouble with using any kind of pot is that they wear and become very noisy, much better off sticking with hall sensors... honestLebowski said:
Lebowski
10 MW
Hm, i've done 6000 km so far on my v1 ebike with a rotary potmeter throttle and never had this issue....
The only thing is the small rotation angle resulting in only a few 100 mV difference between throttle open
and closed, but the slide pots i ordered will fix this...
See second to last picture for what i have now
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39338&p=574726#p574726
The only thing is the small rotation angle resulting in only a few 100 mV difference between throttle open
and closed, but the slide pots i ordered will fix this...
See second to last picture for what i have now
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=6&t=39338&p=574726#p574726
gwhy!1
100 kW
I tried no end of different types of pots and only after around 1 to 2 hours use the noise became a problem for me. I think if it were on a low'ish power bike where good and reliable throttle modulation is not needed then a pot setup my be ok but it just didn't do it for me.
Hi,
I've soldered two packs together, and the smallish pack got two tabs for the + and - made from the same copper bus bar as in the rest of the pack. The idea is to have lexan covering the whole pack.
The small pack weigh under three kilogram and are 12s2p (444Wh)
Next step is to build a heat bending machine for bending lexan
I've soldered two packs together, and the smallish pack got two tabs for the + and - made from the same copper bus bar as in the rest of the pack. The idea is to have lexan covering the whole pack.
The small pack weigh under three kilogram and are 12s2p (444Wh)
Next step is to build a heat bending machine for bending lexan
Attachments
Hello
First battery box made, after several attempts on bending the lexan I did not get small enough radius for a good fitment in the frame. So I decided to cut all the pieces and glue them together. There is no good way to weld or glue lexan, but I used Locktite 330, it is a acrylic based adhesive with good bonding to lexan, so the data sheet say anyway.
I also made the balancing harness for the pack using DB-15 plug. I like them for being solid and accepting large enough currents for balancing the pack.
Heres some pictures of the work so far:
First battery box made, after several attempts on bending the lexan I did not get small enough radius for a good fitment in the frame. So I decided to cut all the pieces and glue them together. There is no good way to weld or glue lexan, but I used Locktite 330, it is a acrylic based adhesive with good bonding to lexan, so the data sheet say anyway.
I also made the balancing harness for the pack using DB-15 plug. I like them for being solid and accepting large enough currents for balancing the pack.
Heres some pictures of the work so far:
Attachments
gwhy!1
100 kW
I use A1301EUA-T hall sensors for my throttle conversions, if that any help.
gwhy!1
100 kW
E-Norco said:
the mags are approx 25-30mm apart and i use 5mm diameter x 10mm bar mags (N42), if you have a larger gap you start to get a flat spot in the middle of the travel but any thing upto 25mm will be fine, or you could use longer or larger dia mags if you want a bigger gap.
gwhy!1
100 kW
E-Norco said:
yes you can use ali for the internals, also you can get away with using small mags or if you want a bigger gap you can get N52's ( these are stronger than N42's)
Stielz
100 W
This is some amazing work! Hanging out to see the finished product
dustyearlobe
100 W
- Joined
- Feb 28, 2012
- Messages
- 250
Thinking this is well and truly buried ,,check outpost datesStielz said:
Hello guys,
I've been using too much time rewinding the two motors. I chose to wind them as 11 turn DLRK with 1.9 mm wire. I was a nightmare to make the last turn fit, but I really wanted to put in all the copper I could. I would not recommend doing more than 10 turn with 1.9 mm wire. I think it would be much easier with 1.8 mm wire.
Below are some pictures of the stator with original copper, one without any copper and the last with the new winding. I got almost 100 g more copper than original, even though the winding calculator calculated a lot more copper :?
The motors runs smooth, but they make a bit of noise. These motors are now 100Kv ish, so the top speed will be a bit lower. Maybe I just accept that this bike never will be a true monster and try to find an acceptable compromise between power and reliability. I don't want to rewind any more motors or buy any more controllers just yet
I've been using too much time rewinding the two motors. I chose to wind them as 11 turn DLRK with 1.9 mm wire. I was a nightmare to make the last turn fit, but I really wanted to put in all the copper I could. I would not recommend doing more than 10 turn with 1.9 mm wire. I think it would be much easier with 1.8 mm wire.
Below are some pictures of the stator with original copper, one without any copper and the last with the new winding. I got almost 100 g more copper than original, even though the winding calculator calculated a lot more copper :?
The motors runs smooth, but they make a bit of noise. These motors are now 100Kv ish, so the top speed will be a bit lower. Maybe I just accept that this bike never will be a true monster and try to find an acceptable compromise between power and reliability. I don't want to rewind any more motors or buy any more controllers just yet
