ambroseliao
100 kW
Bike_on said:
That's actually very impressive.
Falco e-Motors
- Thread starter Mark H
- Start date
That's actually very impressive.
Tominfaribo said:
With the cycle analyst, regen in mode 0 or when going 15mph+ and coasting is QUITE low. I do not see ANY energy going back into the battery on the CA. I may see a quick blimp, but that's it. In -1 to -5 mode, the regen is quite pronounced and varies from 100W to 350W. There may be some back emf effects when riding faster than the winding design, for i do feel some resistance after accelerating up past 20mph and then coasting.
Hi guys,
I bought a Falco 500W motor several weeks ago but It was impossible to work with it.
I can not get a good wireless signal from the transmitter to the display. When I turn on the battery from a lot of time turned off it works for a seconds. Then the display stop showing the speed and turn to sleep. The motor do not obey to the console instructions and anything works. The motor only work at the last level that I could select and also works with the throttle. I have check the installation of the motor (the red paint signal), the battery, everything..
I have explained all those things to Rakesh. We connect to my motor across internet to upgraded my motor firmware (or something like that). They sent me a new console. But, it does not work. It is a pity because it looks work very well during the few seconds that I can get from the system working properly or working with throttle.
Now I am waiting to receive a new transmitter to check and see if it works. I am very anxious to see it. I am praying for the fail is in the transmitter, if not it will be the motor... oh my God! I hope no!
I bought a Falco 500W motor several weeks ago but It was impossible to work with it.
I can not get a good wireless signal from the transmitter to the display. When I turn on the battery from a lot of time turned off it works for a seconds. Then the display stop showing the speed and turn to sleep. The motor do not obey to the console instructions and anything works. The motor only work at the last level that I could select and also works with the throttle. I have check the installation of the motor (the red paint signal), the battery, everything..
I have explained all those things to Rakesh. We connect to my motor across internet to upgraded my motor firmware (or something like that). They sent me a new console. But, it does not work. It is a pity because it looks work very well during the few seconds that I can get from the system working properly or working with throttle.
Now I am waiting to receive a new transmitter to check and see if it works. I am very anxious to see it. I am praying for the fail is in the transmitter, if not it will be the motor... oh my God! I hope no!
Tomillo-
Try charging your console. My console went dead yesterday on the way home. I was adjusting the level and was at 0 level.. guess what? It stayed at zero! So I pedalled au-natural the rest of the ride. I got home and charged the wireless console and back in business today.
Also, make sure the motor transmiter is dry. I added some clear silicone caulk around the wire/case joint to seal out moisture.
Dan
Try charging your console. My console went dead yesterday on the way home. I was adjusting the level and was at 0 level.. guess what? It stayed at zero! So I pedalled au-natural the rest of the ride. I got home and charged the wireless console and back in business today.
Also, make sure the motor transmiter is dry. I added some clear silicone caulk around the wire/case joint to seal out moisture.
Dan
FalcoeMotors
10 W
- Joined
- Jul 30, 2013
- Messages
- 66
Please check what kind of battery you are using. Falco motor draws a peak current of 30A. Some of the batteries may not be able to handle this and dip down in voltage causing communication reset. If you use Falco batteries, that won't be an issue.
I made a comment earlier that I did not see any regen on my CA during transition from power to coast. I can correct that. Using the throttle, if I feather the throttle backon, some regen will kick on. While coasting down an incline, I can get it to draw -120 to -180W or so.
My Falco 500W system was designed as a PAS, with the throttle option. I added the throttle because the PAS response was not giving me enough continuous watts for all my leg effort. (call me lazy or old, but I needed more watts!) The throttle allows me to feather in 100-300W continuously, OR go full Thottle.
Full T puts out 1080W, 30A on a fresh charge and holds it. That was a surprise for a 500W system to me! Ah..nothing's free. On hot days, after riding maybe 15-16miles, sometime sooner, i get a power foldback to 120W for 4-5 min, then power resumes.
Rakesh confirmed that is a thermal limit in the motor. The limit is set in hardware (resistor) and a sw change can't
fix it. That's the bad news.
The good news is that Falco has analyzed and determined that the current temp limit (100C I think) is too conservative and they are raising it to 120C. Don't quote me on those specifics, but ballpark from memory. So the newer motors will have a higher threshold.
Falco Motor Specs:
Direct drive
regen
500W nom
1kW peak
5 phase
4.5kg, 9lb
internal controller
internal torque sensor
internal temp sense at 120C
connects to wireless transmitter
Freewheel cassette
Freewheel hub 2014
disk brake compatible
Silent
zero cogging
Full T puts out 1080W, 30A on a fresh charge and holds it. That was a surprise for a 500W system to me! Ah..nothing's free. On hot days, after riding maybe 15-16miles, sometime sooner, i get a power foldback to 120W for 4-5 min, then power resumes.
Rakesh confirmed that is a thermal limit in the motor. The limit is set in hardware (resistor) and a sw change can't
fix it. That's the bad news.
The good news is that Falco has analyzed and determined that the current temp limit (100C I think) is too conservative and they are raising it to 120C. Don't quote me on those specifics, but ballpark from memory. So the newer motors will have a higher threshold.
Falco Motor Specs:
Direct drive
regen
500W nom
1kW peak
5 phase
4.5kg, 9lb
internal controller
internal torque sensor
internal temp sense at 120C
connects to wireless transmitter
Freewheel cassette
Freewheel hub 2014
disk brake compatible
Silent
zero cogging
Regarding your transmitter problem: Did you try it in a different location? I have a wireless reversing camera in my car. When it's transmitting, no other wireless devices within about 50 meters can function. I guess other uncontrolled wireless devices can have the same effect.
Bike_on said:
Maybe those motors have a problem with the temperature because I live in a hot place and my Falco motor never works properly. When it becomes hot after some minutes riding the power decreases dramatically and finally it stop working. It lose connection and only after some time stopped start working again. After many tests, changing display, changing transmitter, changing battery and many months trying to solve waiting Rakesh told me that they are going to change my unit. I have lost my confidence on this motor. We will see. I am not very sure that it will fulfill my expectation. It would have to change a lot and show me that really works. I also could see that the help on cruise mode during the short period of time that I could enjoy it is very low. Maybe the torque sensor would have to be improved to get more assistance in determinate levels.
miro13car
100 kW
tomilo,
write
what battery are you using on your FALCO?
bike-on,
why bad news about thermal limiter, would you prefer to burn up your FALCO motor?
Tens if not hundreds of ownes distroyed their DD China hubs from overheating , some of them came to ES to cry.
On my 2 DD HUB ebikes I have sensors buit in , all kind of protections, that IS the beauty of computerized drive.
write
what battery are you using on your FALCO?
bike-on,
why bad news about thermal limiter, would you prefer to burn up your FALCO motor?
Tens if not hundreds of ownes distroyed their DD China hubs from overheating , some of them came to ES to cry.
On my 2 DD HUB ebikes I have sensors buit in , all kind of protections, that IS the beauty of computerized drive.
Miro-
Yes, the bad news is that the 500W rated DD hub I have will output over 1080W with a fresh battery charge, however, it cannot be sustain with full, constant throttle due to thermal cutback. wink, wink.
Maybe the term "bad news" is misplaced. The hub will cut back if run hard, using the throttle, as opposed to the PAS mode. My point was that Rakesh confirmed that the existing thermal limit is over-conservative, and Falco feels safe to raise that limit. That is Good News because now it can operate at a higher temp due to more average power.
I am able to moderate the temp by only going full THR as needed on hills, or adjusting the level to +3 or so. +3 limits the current to 18A and power to 600-700W.
On the flats, I can go down on the drop bars and feather in 300-400W and maintain 28mph speed, at about 95-100rpm, moderate effort.
This unit makes a road bike very FAST. One restriction is the freewheel cassette at 13T. The free hub, when ready, will be 11T and bump up the speed to 30-32mph top gear.
My torque bar seems to be perfroming well. I have yet to re-program the controls. I have a MUCH needed tweek for PAS mode to be comfortable. Also, when cutting out of power, I feel the motor-gen switch over and it vibrates the frame. I was told this is a hard-off setting and a soft-off can be programmed. That will cost thermally, but I expect it is worth it.
In PAS mode, riding in low 20mph range, the bike feels a drag after cutting power. Part of it is the hard-off, part is going to zero assist at high speeds, and part coul dbe back EMF. The PAS controler does not allow a small feed of power (100-200W) to continue after a PAS input assist surge and that is the other tweek needed for a smoother PAS ride. I assume the geared freewheel hubs have no issue with they are DD dis-engaged.
Just a little more feedback.
Yes, the bad news is that the 500W rated DD hub I have will output over 1080W with a fresh battery charge, however, it cannot be sustain with full, constant throttle due to thermal cutback. wink, wink.
Maybe the term "bad news" is misplaced. The hub will cut back if run hard, using the throttle, as opposed to the PAS mode. My point was that Rakesh confirmed that the existing thermal limit is over-conservative, and Falco feels safe to raise that limit. That is Good News because now it can operate at a higher temp due to more average power.
I am able to moderate the temp by only going full THR as needed on hills, or adjusting the level to +3 or so. +3 limits the current to 18A and power to 600-700W.
On the flats, I can go down on the drop bars and feather in 300-400W and maintain 28mph speed, at about 95-100rpm, moderate effort.
This unit makes a road bike very FAST. One restriction is the freewheel cassette at 13T. The free hub, when ready, will be 11T and bump up the speed to 30-32mph top gear.
My torque bar seems to be perfroming well. I have yet to re-program the controls. I have a MUCH needed tweek for PAS mode to be comfortable. Also, when cutting out of power, I feel the motor-gen switch over and it vibrates the frame. I was told this is a hard-off setting and a soft-off can be programmed. That will cost thermally, but I expect it is worth it.
In PAS mode, riding in low 20mph range, the bike feels a drag after cutting power. Part of it is the hard-off, part is going to zero assist at high speeds, and part coul dbe back EMF. The PAS controler does not allow a small feed of power (100-200W) to continue after a PAS input assist surge and that is the other tweek needed for a smoother PAS ride. I assume the geared freewheel hubs have no issue with they are DD dis-engaged.
Just a little more feedback.
miro13car
100 kW
bike-on,
since EPLUS was designed by the same company and the same leading engineer - Rakhesh.
Of course it has thermal protection but you cannot notice any cut-off . It Is very gradual when controller limits power on hot day while riding in level 9.
So FALCO also has those power levels which works so well , no need to "feather" throttle.
28mph with light pedalling drawing just 300-400Watts ? No doubt FALCO drive is super efficient.
How well FALCO WORKS WITH YOU when you pedal along?
EPLUS works wonderfully with rider , speed increase in like unison. Easly can reach 52-53km/hour /!!!!/ with pedalling, without pedalling easly can reach 48km/h.
Consider that is 36V drive not 48V. How is FALCO in that regard?
since EPLUS was designed by the same company and the same leading engineer - Rakhesh.
Of course it has thermal protection but you cannot notice any cut-off . It Is very gradual when controller limits power on hot day while riding in level 9.
So FALCO also has those power levels which works so well , no need to "feather" throttle.
28mph with light pedalling drawing just 300-400Watts ? No doubt FALCO drive is super efficient.
How well FALCO WORKS WITH YOU when you pedal along?
EPLUS works wonderfully with rider , speed increase in like unison. Easly can reach 52-53km/hour /!!!!/ with pedalling, without pedalling easly can reach 48km/h.
Consider that is 36V drive not 48V. How is FALCO in that regard?
sk8norcal
1 MW
interview, part1,2,3
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpTfloGMOO8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4PQbbFSbbM
[youtube]X72UGBkuOds[/youtube]
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JpTfloGMOO8
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Q4PQbbFSbbM
[youtube]X72UGBkuOds[/youtube]
miro13car said:
Miro-
The Falco motors are different than EPLUS. It is a new design. While the E+ was a 3-phase upgrade to the Tidleforce hub, the Falco is a fresh design. Rakesh discusses that in the interview above.
The 28mph at 300-400W is tucked, on a road bike and up to speed, and me pedalling brisk. Add a litte inlcine and power needed goes up 400-600W.
The system is effecient, and I credit that to the motor and the fast road bike platform. From the Cycle Analyst I inserted in line, I am consistently seeing:
1. Inbound commute: 15-16 whr/mi for 17 miles, -300ft diff, 1000ft ascent, ave speed 20-24mph depending on my effort.
2.Return commute: 17-18 whr/mi for 17 miles, +300ft diff, 1300ft ascent, ave speed 19-23mph depending on my effort.
If I don't feather the throttle, but pound it, the motor will overhead and a thermal switch will trigger. Power gets cut back to 100W, 2A or so and my speed plummets. After 4-5 min, it cools down and power kicks back on. Note, Rakesh has confirmed that the new builds have a higher set point thermally.
Also, I have the 250W-500W, 4.5kg hub. With the 11.6ahr battery at 42V, full throttle gives 1080W! The first 5 miles can easily see 900-1000W. That is with 36V. I believe it was designed to run as a pedelec, and give burst at those levels, not maintain. Of course, it woul dbe nice to keep the 4.5kg hub and not go to the 6kg in order to run at 750-1000W continuous. Gotta push the hardware.
At 36V, on a road bike, tucked, going down a 3% grade, I'm seeing 36-38mph (60.8 km/hr) full throttle, +5 level, cruise mode. As a DD hub, going 48V would increase speed, but derease torque at the same power output. If the controlls allow 30A, that is 48*30=1440W starting out and woul dheat the hub faster. Somebody needs t try it.
A 48V would be faster, but again, there is the thermal limit protection and I do not have data on the new set point.
Rider motor interaction:
Pros:
DD silent, smooth, rides very well with rider.
decent torque (30A, 35 or 55nm spec, not sure for 4.5kg)
Total wheel weight with rim, tire and cassette: 16lbs - not bad for thse power levels.
Wireless console is cool: HR mon, voltage, levels.
Having the controler integrated and less wiring is cool too.
Cons:
Pedelec interface needs tweeked.
Road frame feels the hub mass, even with a lighter hub. Need suspension.
Needs a free hub cassette so I can add a 11-12T gear. I top out with 13T and 52T front.
Wireless consol contrast difficult to read and too small. Need ANT+ for power.
Battery wire 14awg, LiMn curve.
Performance:
This bike weighs 40lbs, has 11.6ahrs, 36V, 418 whr, has a peak power of 1080W. Typical power is easily 500-900W with throttle. Efficiency is 9-10 whr/mi pedelec, 15-18whr/mi over the discharge. Bike can run as a pedelec or direct throttle. Range can be calculated above. Top ave speeds seeing 23-24mph over mixed, 18 mile rides. Thi sis really good power/wt ratio, range and eff/speed numbers. Who can beat them?
Upgrade?
If I did a new Falco bike, I would sacrifice some weigth and speed and get a frame with front suspension and 32-40mm tires. Lockable rear shock or a thudbuster. Disk brakes would help. I like riding with the hoods and Ultegra component shifters. I would consider a straight bar and cow hooks, maybe not. If the new thermal limit is good enough, I would go 48V and keep the 4.5kg hub for more power. Now you have a softer 48-50lb bike, but still silent and 38mph+ top speed.
Next step up?
I saw the HPC vs Stealth utube video. HPC has a 92V, 4500W hub. 62 lbs. That battery has rediculously energy dense with a psycho voltage. Not fair. It goes 45mph, but you can't add any pedal power. Full suspension. I forget eff when racing, maybe 60 whr/mi.
ambroseliao
100 kW
Bike_on said:
[youtube]0RDMeoqApnM[/youtube]
The HPC and Stealth are essentially motorcycles (MC). I have an older speed version of that motor on an Tidalforce S-750 and it is indeed very fast, even at 74V. The Crystalyte motor is much noisier than the TF or perhaps, the Falco motor.
miro13car
100 kW
the bottom line is
what comparable ebikes can achive at given voltage say 36V when you compare two of them.
METHOD of motor control and motor construction and quality of materials /magetics/ used decide alot about drive efficiency
I dont know about FALCO but EPLUS uses FOC /FieldOrientedControl/ method with field weakening which result in improved efficiency.
Im not surprised by Wh/mile numbers for FALCO - REALLY IMPRESSIVE , Falco bearly sips Whs.
Just visiting Rakhesh design company STG /Strategic Technology Group/ web site and seeing all those tools and resources they used in designing EPLUS and FALCO gives you idea how much they could achive.
On my EPLUS at highest power level 9 I never even seen more than 16WHs/km at over 50-52km/h speeds, never seen 40A draw /highest 38Amps/ .
For sure FALCO is overvoltage protected like other STG drive designs.
what comparable ebikes can achive at given voltage say 36V when you compare two of them.
METHOD of motor control and motor construction and quality of materials /magetics/ used decide alot about drive efficiency
I dont know about FALCO but EPLUS uses FOC /FieldOrientedControl/ method with field weakening which result in improved efficiency.
Im not surprised by Wh/mile numbers for FALCO - REALLY IMPRESSIVE , Falco bearly sips Whs.
Just visiting Rakhesh design company STG /Strategic Technology Group/ web site and seeing all those tools and resources they used in designing EPLUS and FALCO gives you idea how much they could achive.
On my EPLUS at highest power level 9 I never even seen more than 16WHs/km at over 50-52km/h speeds, never seen 40A draw /highest 38Amps/ .
For sure FALCO is overvoltage protected like other STG drive designs.
miro13car
100 kW
Noisier?
Ironically this "ebike" is called "Stealth"
Ambrose, so what we call our TFs?
Bike_on
Remember that is 92V of DC , can be deadly in certain situations.
Makes you wonder what those "ebikes" could achive on 36V??
Ironically this "ebike" is called "Stealth"
Ambrose, so what we call our TFs?
Bike_on
Remember that is 92V of DC , can be deadly in certain situations.
Makes you wonder what those "ebikes" could achive on 36V??
hcrider
1 mW
Miro: I recently purchased a Falco 500 watt 36 volt 11.6 ah torque sensing system and installed it on a 57cm frame Trek 7300, running 700c x 40 on the rear and 700c x 35 on the front. The bike doesn't match Bike_on's speeds, but it's good for 31 mph with my pedaling efforts. Not bad for an upright bike. The motor is absolutely quiet. I've only felt the motor get very hot when riding a series of steep rolling hills at 17 mph on the upside with strong pedaling, and I was pedaling briskly on the downhills in strong regen to put watts back into the battery and extend range. Most of the time on smooth roads I ride 16 to 20 MPH. It's comfortable at that speed. The motor will be just warm to the touch during such use. Range of the bike can vary greatly, depending speed, hills, wind, pedaling effort, and use of regen. On some rides of 23 miles, the battery has indicated that it is down to 20% capacity at the finish of the ride. Using regen and pedaling on downhill and some flat sections, same-length rides yield 50% battery capacity indications. It's a powerful yet fairly light weight system.
miro13car
100 kW
hcrider
so you are on 700c wheels, that's another story.
I have question for you /since it is your first post on such big ebike forum as ES./
IMPORTANT,
Do you OWN any other ebikes?
Did you tried, rode tested any other ebikes before OR
you new to ebikes??
IT makes a lot of difference
When you new to ebikes you might think that FALCO is just common standard.
FAR FROM THIS.
so you are on 700c wheels, that's another story.
I have question for you /since it is your first post on such big ebike forum as ES./
IMPORTANT,
Do you OWN any other ebikes?
Did you tried, rode tested any other ebikes before OR
you new to ebikes??
IT makes a lot of difference
When you new to ebikes you might think that FALCO is just common standard.
FAR FROM THIS.
hcrider said:
HC,
You have the same motor, battery and control that's on my bike. Have you tried adding a throttle for backup?
I concur that 31-32 mph is about right with the torque sensing power only. My 35+ mph is with a throttle, on 28mm tires, road bike, and going hard.
Have you tried the CRUISE mode? I assume you have to get assist over 20mph?
Do you have and suspension on the trek 7300?
Keep an eye on you axel nuts using regen.
-D
hcrider
1 mW
Miro: This is my first e-bike. I've been reading about e-bikes on the net for the past year and decided to purchase the Falco based on its weight, quietness and probable durability based on Rakesh's strong background.
Bike_on: My Trek 7300 is ten years old but in nice shape. The front fork has approx. 2" of travel, so it's not a real plush ride, but it takes up a lot of vibration without noticeable pogoing with strong pedaling. I replaced the suspension (heavy) seatpost with a Nashbar carbon fiber one that was on sale and looked nice. Also, I swapped the standard handlebar for a Soma Sparrow with some sweep back that is more comfortable on the wrists and helps keep the elbows from being pointed out. For alternate grip comfort, I added a pair of curved Nashbar bar ends inboard on the handlebar so that there is 3 to 4" gap between the inward pointing ends. I have a thumb throttle on one end of one of the bar ends. On my torque sensing system, the throttle has no effect while I am pedaling. If I am not pedaling, it can run the motor. There is not much need for a throttle. All I really use it for is to check for power after I turn the battery on. Beyond that, I am pedaling and the torque sensing takes over. Cruise mode provides torque-sensed-and-based motor power at all speeds. It makes me feel like a pro rider!
Issues I have had with the system - I learned after receiving the system that the flats on the motor shaft have to be vertical for the torque sensor to work correctly. First operation with the flats of the motor shaft inclined per the bike's standard dropouts caused the motor to run even when not pedaling. It provided 14.5 mph on level 1 up to 18 mph on level 5. Discussed this with Rakesh and he said I had to get the flats vertical. Didn't want to modify the dropouts, but did carefully using a file remove enough material to rotate the shaft 15 degrees or so to vertical. That created some 'slop' which is now controlled by a torque arm I got with the system. Team Hybrid uses the same torque arm on their bikes. It appears to be a Grinn Tech V2 torque arm. The mod seems to have curbed most of the non-pedaling motor power, but not all. Once in awhile the system wants to continue delivering power when I'm not pedaling.
Rakesh provided a brake sensor that I have the rear brake cable (rim brakes) running through. The sensor has an electrical harness attached. Rakesh also sent a 'Y' harness that taps the sensor into the motor control harness. Once installed, the sensor picks up any rear brake cable movement and immediately cuts motor power. The sensor is pictured on the greenbikekit website on the Bike Parts tab. If the system happens to be in the run-on state, brake action only momentarily cuts motor power.
Communication between the console and the motor sometimes drops. That requires turning off and on the battery and letting the system re-boot.
Power levels 1 through 4 are more aggressive than they need to be. Early on a trip in level 1, flat ground and approx 100 watts from me pedaling, and the bike will be nudging 20 mph whereupon it cuts power and goes into regen, slowing the bike, then repeating. Using Cruise mode allows approx 21-22 mph from the same pedaling input. If I pedal approx. 50 watts worth, the bike goes about 17 mph. The speed is nice, but it consumes power at a greater rate than I'd like. Late in a ride, with the system showing 35 volts (a full charged battery shows 40 volts on the console), the results are several mph lower.
Rakesh is aware of the above run-on, communication, and power level issues and is working on a firmware fix for my system to resolve them.
Bike_on: My Trek 7300 is ten years old but in nice shape. The front fork has approx. 2" of travel, so it's not a real plush ride, but it takes up a lot of vibration without noticeable pogoing with strong pedaling. I replaced the suspension (heavy) seatpost with a Nashbar carbon fiber one that was on sale and looked nice. Also, I swapped the standard handlebar for a Soma Sparrow with some sweep back that is more comfortable on the wrists and helps keep the elbows from being pointed out. For alternate grip comfort, I added a pair of curved Nashbar bar ends inboard on the handlebar so that there is 3 to 4" gap between the inward pointing ends. I have a thumb throttle on one end of one of the bar ends. On my torque sensing system, the throttle has no effect while I am pedaling. If I am not pedaling, it can run the motor. There is not much need for a throttle. All I really use it for is to check for power after I turn the battery on. Beyond that, I am pedaling and the torque sensing takes over. Cruise mode provides torque-sensed-and-based motor power at all speeds. It makes me feel like a pro rider!
Issues I have had with the system - I learned after receiving the system that the flats on the motor shaft have to be vertical for the torque sensor to work correctly. First operation with the flats of the motor shaft inclined per the bike's standard dropouts caused the motor to run even when not pedaling. It provided 14.5 mph on level 1 up to 18 mph on level 5. Discussed this with Rakesh and he said I had to get the flats vertical. Didn't want to modify the dropouts, but did carefully using a file remove enough material to rotate the shaft 15 degrees or so to vertical. That created some 'slop' which is now controlled by a torque arm I got with the system. Team Hybrid uses the same torque arm on their bikes. It appears to be a Grinn Tech V2 torque arm. The mod seems to have curbed most of the non-pedaling motor power, but not all. Once in awhile the system wants to continue delivering power when I'm not pedaling.
Rakesh provided a brake sensor that I have the rear brake cable (rim brakes) running through. The sensor has an electrical harness attached. Rakesh also sent a 'Y' harness that taps the sensor into the motor control harness. Once installed, the sensor picks up any rear brake cable movement and immediately cuts motor power. The sensor is pictured on the greenbikekit website on the Bike Parts tab. If the system happens to be in the run-on state, brake action only momentarily cuts motor power.
Communication between the console and the motor sometimes drops. That requires turning off and on the battery and letting the system re-boot.
Power levels 1 through 4 are more aggressive than they need to be. Early on a trip in level 1, flat ground and approx 100 watts from me pedaling, and the bike will be nudging 20 mph whereupon it cuts power and goes into regen, slowing the bike, then repeating. Using Cruise mode allows approx 21-22 mph from the same pedaling input. If I pedal approx. 50 watts worth, the bike goes about 17 mph. The speed is nice, but it consumes power at a greater rate than I'd like. Late in a ride, with the system showing 35 volts (a full charged battery shows 40 volts on the console), the results are several mph lower.
Rakesh is aware of the above run-on, communication, and power level issues and is working on a firmware fix for my system to resolve them.
HC-
Yes, I got one of those torque arms and it does look like the ver 2.
About run-on, is that the effect of the motor continuing to supply power after you stop pedaling? Do you have a crank sensor to detec your rmp? My bike does not have the crank sensor, and will run for 1-2 sec, especially after hard acceleration from me. Rakesh said that is part of the programming with no crank sensor. It is also part of the peda/response dynamic, and the delay lengthens as speed increases.
I too have noticed a small drag after the motor cuts out in pedelec mode. I have a CA and do not see regen when that happend, so is that cogging torque? I don't feel that when the system is off, so I don't think it is. It may be back emf and happening too fast for the CA to read it.
My dropouts are straight, so I got lucky there. The axel fits very snug, as it should.
I weighed my wheel/tire/casette (heavy) and it was 16lb. It feels heavy, though on paper it is lighter than many hubs that put out 500-1000W.
Not sure about your controls, being the throttle cuts off when you pedal. Mine works together and responds to the greater input. If I feather in 100W continuos, and stomp on pedals, the power surges. If I pedal moderate and go full throttle, the power responds.
Yes, I got one of those torque arms and it does look like the ver 2.
About run-on, is that the effect of the motor continuing to supply power after you stop pedaling? Do you have a crank sensor to detec your rmp? My bike does not have the crank sensor, and will run for 1-2 sec, especially after hard acceleration from me. Rakesh said that is part of the programming with no crank sensor. It is also part of the peda/response dynamic, and the delay lengthens as speed increases.
I too have noticed a small drag after the motor cuts out in pedelec mode. I have a CA and do not see regen when that happend, so is that cogging torque? I don't feel that when the system is off, so I don't think it is. It may be back emf and happening too fast for the CA to read it.
My dropouts are straight, so I got lucky there. The axel fits very snug, as it should.
I weighed my wheel/tire/casette (heavy) and it was 16lb. It feels heavy, though on paper it is lighter than many hubs that put out 500-1000W.
Not sure about your controls, being the throttle cuts off when you pedal. Mine works together and responds to the greater input. If I feather in 100W continuos, and stomp on pedals, the power surges. If I pedal moderate and go full throttle, the power responds.
