Fibretech FlyPAN 2015 Dual Diag 12S

Hmmm... my unsolicited .02

BMS seems cool and i like the simplicity of a single plug, BUT i also think being able to easily swap batteries from my bag/backpack seems like a great feature. Having to connect them to a charger i already own and parallel board (RC stuff i already have) seems like a win-win.

For just an e-board, and no RC stuff - BMS makes perfect sense and is dead simple! But a swappable battery pack(s) seems like flexibility/range that is worth some extra effort.

All that - i'm a noob and who knows what i'll do once my board is finally finished/built (sometime in 2020 at this rate). It seems simple now, and i'm planning my build around easily swapped batteries.

OKP - great thread and nice blog! Paris looks like an amazing place to board! I've only been once and loved every minute of my 28hrs in it! Definitely jealous. Thanks for sharing all the videos and this build!
 
thanks ! more to come ... starting to dig my board with my dremel using this...

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took me 20 minutes to do this... ! this is raw; I will of course sand everything to make a perfect bed for the lipos. I think I am around 5mm... maybe I will go up to 7mm

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this would be WAY easier with a bigger ripper/router; but well that's still acceptable; just take 10x more time. I am digging holes with the router and then digging between the holes to join them into a bigger hole... otherwise with the fiberglass it's almost impossible to make this happen, as the wood starts to burn.

What is sure is that this Fibretech board/wood is MAD strong.
 
Definitely your dremel is turning too fast :-o
Would be better with a human sized router :)
Are you not afraid that the deck will be to weak after that?
 
I will be getting this tomorrow, because my dremel will probably not be able to handle this. I will use the dremel to refine the hole.

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The deck will be stronger - I will reinforce with kevlar fiber :)
 
I have used this tool (called defonceuse) before for other purposes (build my telescope).
It is just ridiculously very powerful !! I loved it.
And with a ginding rail, you can do very straight holes.
 
here is goes. I wouldn't be able to do this with a dremel; almost impossible. This deck is just ultra strong (there is like 2mm of fiberglass material on the top sheet !!!). Removed around 7mm of material

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here goes the kevlar sheet

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epoxied

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epoxied kevlar sheet is slowly drying. At this time I am quite happy with how things goes.

Should be able to move forward tomorrow morning. I have my flat lipo packs ready. I will do the fiberglass box that I will reinforce with kevlar in the inside.

I will be using XT60 with four 3S pack in series. Will end up with a 12S. As I don't think with such voltage I will pull more than 60A continuous... XT60 should be perfect. These are also way smaller than EC5 or XT90. This counts a lot because I want to have something flat. No more than 3cm height.

More to come tomorrow.
 
sunny day in Paris. Kevlar is rock solid. it turns well. I have to admit that this epoxy is odorless. really ! I wear a specific mask to avoid any vapors anyway.

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not sure and really curious about the outcome of this !

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Box has been sanded to make it look better and more professional/stealth
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To ensure perfect fit with the board concave, I just epoxied/fiberglassed - (two sheets)... the enclosure in place, everything (board & enclosure both) protected with clingfilm to ease unmolding
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depending on how it turns out, I will then cut the fibered enclosure and reinforce with kevlar (in the inside), then sand it for a glossy finish (I won't add gelcoat cause I didn't went that way).

it's now drying (again) !
 
:)

I will need to epoxy two additional fiberglass sheets and will put kevlar inside. bullet proof.

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also epoxied two pieces of wood that will allow the straps to hold the lipos; i.e no pressure or weight on the enclosure

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monday's surprise. I just barely cut it with scissors and remove my mold. I could have gained 5mm from my enclosure, but well I am happy with the result.

Maybe I will give Kevlar a look to reinforce from the inside... don't know if it worth yet.

what you see are not air bubbles but PU which has got stuck inside the enclosure, need to clean this :)

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thanks! just wondering what would be the best way to attach the enclosure... I was using bolts in my other setup but maybe this could do the deal as there is no weight/nothing pressing on the enclosure

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also- Bruno is having some flat ( 20mm thick) 8S 10,000mah battery packs with BMS and volt meter built in made up.. if there successful i'm sure 10s/12s would be next.. :)

Looking at the your board- i do wonder if the new kevlar is not quite long enough and should really overlap onto the existing fibreglass? you have created a sharp edge/stress point in corners of the pocket....a radius cutter would have been better and as i say an overlap..but test and see - it may be ok..
 
yep- they will be perfect and will also include single or dual esc if wanted
and hopefully i will take delivery of the first Alien hand control -some time this week..or so we have been promised..fingers crossed...
 
okp said:
thanks! just wondering what would be the best way to attach the enclosure... I was using bolts in my other setup but maybe this could do the deal as there is no weight/nothing pressing on the enclosure

torqueboards said:
You can put velcro on the flange on your enclosure?

Velcro would be ideal as torque said so you can easily pull it off, and as you stated it is not really carrying weight. Should be enough to take any lateral force and block water spray as well, if it's running all the way around.

However, I'm thinking that if the router cut 9mm deep, and about 160 wide, you have a significant proportion of the deck, in the centre, that is only 3 odd mm thick. Before you decide either way, I would suggest checking how the flex has been affected by this. The kevlar is only about 3mm from the centre and in compression, so won't be hugely effective. To counter this, if the deck feels too flexy for your liking, you could use the case as a structural element.

A neat way to do this I have used on similar situations is get some m4x12mm screws and nyloc nuts. Drill 4mm holes into the deck through the shell, enlarge the deck holes to about 7mm and 4mm deep, with a 4mm hole going to around 8mm deep (so you don't have a nut/screw on the top surface) and use some of that epoxy to glue the nuts in place. Excess screw length can extend into the 4mm hole. This way with the case on all you see is the screw heads, nice and clean. 6-8 screws should do it just fine.

But anyway, thats just my 2 cents. The case looks really nice, much better than a lunchbox! Great work.
 
This is encouraging since I'm basically going to be using this same process on the decks I'm designing. The results I'm seeing here are very promising. Thanks for the posts! :D
 
thanks bandaro for sharing your knowledge ! In fact, my board is really really strong; 2 mm of fiberglass just for the bottom sheet, I have not noticed a bigger flex than previously. Maybe I will notice it when riding.

I plan to use the enclosure as an active part of the build and I will follow exactly your guidelines which is how my previous enclosure was attached.

I was planning to reinforce with Kevlar, at least on the inside to protect lipos... but honestly I will check later in the evening.. seems to be pretty solid.

This enclosure (I have not removed the bulky stuff yet) is around 120 grams which is fine.

Just finished this task: wiring to make a 12S 5AH having a perfect length for each discharge cable. (Two 3S in series making one 6S) * 2 = 12S

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update: no need for kevlar at this time. I will sand the enclosure to have it sleek and will re evaluate this later.
 
redid a new enclosure mold; the first one was too bulky :) I am also doing a raw test with a enclosure for my electronics ... aramide this time. Just want to know how solid this is - will try to hammer it :)

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I expect to have the battery enclosure finished; painted by sunday.

I will focus on the electronic enclosure after that.

guys, I am actually riding 83mm wheels with 63mm motors ... I would love to put some kegels 80mm... do you think this is achievable/interesting?

dual diagonal 63mm 170kv motor / 32T
 
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