Hi guys,
I responded to this topic:
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?t=2187232
I'm not a native English native speaker, but I see that as an 'advantage', as I won't read the Chinglish as easy as a native speaker probably would, which makes understanding what's actually meant and turning it into readable English more of a challenge...
(I may have bitten off more than I can chew, we'll see).
I received the instructions and a test ESC, the 120A watercooled version.
http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...t=Flycolor+ESC
As a first test, I installed the ESC in my 43,3" MAS model which is powered by an Aeolian C-4250-800Kv outrunner on 4S, turning a 55 mm two blade coarse pitched prop.
See build thread for specs: http://www.rcgroups.com/forums/showt...i+Sommergibile
As this semi scale model requires forward and reverse operation, I read the instructions and gave it a go.
Unfortunately the instructions are translated by a machine, this introduces some strange words and phrases, which makes it next to impossible to understand what is meant exactly.
I have been programming Mystery type ESC's, counting beeps without issues, but this is something else (or I'm getting too old...).
After a frustrating hour, I gave up and ordered a programming box from Hobbyking, who sells these ESC's under the Turnigy label.
Once the programming box had been delivered, setting up the ESC for forward reverse (without brake) was very easy.
The programmable functions are:
1) operation mode:
- forward with brake
- forward & reverse with brake
- direct forward & reverse without brake.
I used the third option to be able to reverse without having to wait until the motor has stopped.
In a fast electric, the fact the brake can't be turned off in the software is a bit unnerving, as stopping the motor at full speed could cause a threaded prop to unwind itself from the propshaft, if the counter nut hasn't been tightened enough.
2) Neutral range:
- 6%
- 9%
- 12%
The default dead band setting is 9%, being able to widen or narrow it is a nice feature if you run your model very far from the transmitter as I do, and still be sure the motor will have stopped, when you put the throttle stick (mine doesn't self center, no spring) in the center position.
3) Low Voltage cut off:
- no cut off
- 2,6V
- 2,8V
- 3,0V
- 3,2V (default setting)
- 3,4V
4) Start up acceleration (softstart):
Nine levels, with level 6 as default setting.
This shows the car background of this software, I have no use for it in a scale boat, as it applies to both forward and
reverse; backing out of an eminent collision works better when the motor responds immediately...
Once I've tested this feature in my fast electrics, I'll be able to tell if it has any use there, avoiding spikes for example.
5) Reverse force:
- 25%
- 50%
- 75%
- 100%
Again from the car heritage, but useful in a fast model if your transmitter doesn't have the option to reduce the reverse, avoiding submerging the boat over the stern.
The ESC setting reduces the range, you still have proportional control.
6) Entrance angle setting (timing).
- 0°
- 5°
- 10°
- 15°
- 20° (default setting)
- 25°
- 30°
- automatic
You can't select the PWM setting and the instructions don't mention if it's 8KHz or 16KHz.
The ESC also detects the number of cells when initializing, you can't set the cellcount by programming box of counting beeps.
After testing the ESC in my fast electrics, I'll be able to tell if this is important or not.
The testrun in the MAS showed a nice low end response, which allows the model to run rather slow, similar to the T-120 and ICE 100A ESC.
A prop with less pitch (more scale like) will allow even slower running.
Compared to the T-120 and ICE 100A ESC's, which I tried in this model earlier, the Flycolor is build like a tank with it's aluminum housing, in which the electronics are sealed in 100% watertight, it'll run submerged without any issues, as I found out, running in the pouring rain, water entered the model through a leaky hatch, which
resulted in half an inch of water in the motor compartment where the ESC sat.
Only the ESC did get wet, as all other components were mounted higher in the hull.
It's also bigger and heavier than both other ESC's.
Prolonged full throttle runs were no problem, no heat build up at all.
As the motor/prop combo usually runs on a 100A ESC, I wasn't expecting thermal issues anyway.
Running at partial throttle also left the ESC completely cold to the touch.
As soon as the weather improves, I'll go test this ESC in my 31"Arowana, to see what the other features of this ESC do on a fast electric.
So far I'm pleaseantly surprised with the performance, the written instructions require some work though.
To be continued.
Regards, Jan.