Fuses on 72v SLA system

DanSFIV

10 W
Joined
Nov 7, 2011
Messages
94
Hi,


I've been blowing 30amp fuses on my 72v sla system like crazy it driving me nuts.. Is it because 30amp is not enough for 72v of power?

can I add 2x 30amp to battery system or it doesnt work that way??

how many amp is needed for 72v system

40amp enough?

thanks for all your help
 
It is impossible to say what amperage fuse will be enough.
It totally depends in your controller and motor.

Amps are amps at whatever voltage and cell chemistry.

What is your controller? what does it draw max? that is what will tell you what fuse you need
 
72v greentime controller 45a. its funny , the cheap dollar store fuses melt a little but dont blow. whereas the canadiantire brand blows fuses right away.. or could it be my fuses holder? its got burnt marks on it
 
Dan the description you gave for your controller: 72v greentime controller 45a" I would assume the 45a is 45 Amps. When I googled it, it was confirmed as a 45A maximum controller. You may need to increase your fuse to 50 Amps.
 
DanSFIV said:
72v greentime controller 45a.


Well...there is your answer..gonna need at least a 45 amp fuse..possibly more, depends on how much over the 45 amps the controller pulls on initial throttle opening and if there is any sort of 'block time' that ignores the current limit for the first x seconds.

I have given up on fuses, I just connect up direct now, yes, OK a bit risky possibly, but I could not find a fuse holder capable of not melting and taking the currents I was using..80 to 90 amps, with 140 amp peaks...The 80 amp fuse was fine for these currents, but the bloody fuse holder kept melting.

Yes, a big circuti breaker woudl do, or a massive cartridge fuse..but they are al too big and you need to find space for them. I do have a 'weak link' in the system that will blow on a major battery short, but no proper fuse as such, it was just too much hassle
 
ok thanks for all the input. Do you still get max speed without a fuses?


if i add another 30amp fuses to my 2 battieres under the seat would that do anything? so it would have 30amp fuses on the 4x12v20ah and another 30amp on the 2x12v20ah under the seat


i have to look around for 45amp fuses.. i can get 40amp fuses and 60amp (but its fuses holder and 1x60amp - no extra fuses and cant find 60amp fuses only)
 
another thing i noticed was if i rode @ 32-35km it seems like the fuses is fine. But after 40km plus for a couple of minutes the fuses blows. When i go to replace it the fuses is warm.
 
i recommend you get like a 60 amp fuse it will give some head room so you fuses dont blow ive been there with the 72v Sla pack and ive never blown a fuse i still have a few left over when i had Sla battery.
 
NeilP said:
I have given up on fuses, I just connect up direct now, yes, OK a bit risky possibly, but I could not find a fuse holder capable of not melting and taking the currents I was using..80 to 90 amps, with 140 amp peaks...The 80 amp fuse was fine for these currents, but the bloody fuse holder kept melting.
Have you tried an AGU fuse and holder? Holder melting would indicate either too small of cable or loose connection to holder. An AGU holder should handle 140A peak easily, but you need a big input cable to it.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/Fuses-Fuse-Holders-/169358/i.html?_nkw=agu&_ipg=200&rt=nc
 
Dan, paralleling fuses is not a particularly good thing to do. Yes two paralleled 30 amp fuses will carry more than one 30 amp fuse, but it is anyone's guess how much more. The reason being is very small differences in the installation resistance of each fuse will determine how they heat and hence how the blow.

As others have said, if the fuse/fuse holder is getting hot; something is undersized or the connection to the fuse and/or fuse holder has developed some resistance. It is a know fact that maxi fuse holders (those big car type fuses) will develop contact resistance when driven hard for a while. I think NeilP who posted on here had some bad luck about a year ago with some and posted pix, I think.

A fuse's voltage rating is the supply voltage that the fuse is guaranteed to break. Note that AC goes through zero current each half cycle, so it tends to want to extinguish the arc on it's own. DC is a beast. With the inductive kickback of the leads and no zero crossing, DC fuses at high voltage and high currents are a big plasma ball. You will note that fuses in this category are typically big, expensive and have some type of ceramic in their make up.

The trouble is eBikes a pushing the 100 volt limit. Lots of nice Forklift fuses below that, but the territory gets less populated and prices higher above 100V. Will a lower voltage rated fuse work at higher voltage? Likely, but not guaranteed. Will it blow, yes; the question is will it extinguish the arc. If you can ramp the current down to zero, like letting off the throttle, it certainly will.

A fuse worth looking into is the "Pacific Fuse" at autoparts stores. It is rated to 58 volts I think, and some come with tabs that you can bolt to or solder to. I would load their catalog, but it is 8 Megs. It has the time/current curves in it so that you can see how a fuse works. They are not instantaneous, and they are not perfect. They do save the wiring harness. That is about all they are good for as the silicon typically blows anyway.

Good luck with your bike and your fusing.

PS: I bought some nice looking 100 amp CNL fuses from China. Thought I got a good deal on them, but after an experience another member on the board had with some, I tested one to make sure it blew. It did ... at about 350 amps! A lot of good that would do. Counterfeit fuses are about as useful as counterfeit drugs.
 
A fuse worth looking into is the "Pacific Fuse" at autoparts stores. It is rated to 58 volts I think, and some come with tabs that you can bolt to or solder to. I would load their catalog, but it is 8 Megs.
Here's a link to Pacific 58V blade fuses. I'm going to replace my existing fuses with these.
http://www.pecj.co.jp/en/fuse/blade/teihai.html
 
My issue with the MaxiFuse fuse holders was as Bigmoose said,the high resistance developing on the contacts on the fuse legs. My wires are 8gauge and the connection of fuse to holder was always as tight as I could make it.
They just slowly developed high resistance on the legs, even with daily removal and rubbing down with emery paper.
A solution was to grind the surface of the fuse leg down to bare metal , roll the legs to a tube, crimp direct to two short lengths of wire and solder, then fit plug/ socket to either end suitable for what ever wiring you use. Heat shrink the bare ends.

Agu fuse holders look good, anyone know what other fuse ratings are available for them?
 
NeilP said:
Agu fuse holders look good, anyone know what other fuse ratings are available for them?
120A. If you need more than that look at ANL fuses and holders here.
http://impulseusa.com/product_info.php?cPath=32_33&products_id=1596
 
120 would be plenty, if I decided to go back to using fuses. a 70 or 80 amp fuse tends to last, as I only pull the 140 amps figures at start up very briefly, so as long as they are not fast acting then 120 would be fine
 
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