Having my BL-36 laced to a new rim - reccommendations?

[mrgarci1]

So I'm no bicycle mechanic, and I never had a pro true my BL-36 front wheel when I first got it (my LBS wouldn't touch it - I think the motor scared them). Now it's way out of whack, from a combination of unskilled maintenance on my part and from being dropped a week or two ago - I'm pretty sure the rim is bent. So, I found the ONE LBS in Phoenix who will look at this for me, and I'm going to see if they will build the motor up into a super-solid double-wall rim.

Has anyone had a WE motor (or any motor) relaced? Any recommendations on rims/spokes to use, or other words of wisdom? I have no problem buying the parts myself and bringing them into the LBS to have the labor done. I'm pretty sure it's a 36 hole hub (haven't counted recently, can't remember).

Any and all input is appreciated.

 

[philf]

I've relaced all but one of the five motors now in my possession. Two of them went into Mavic 221's which, although a nice rim with spoke eyelets, I frankly felt was a bit "skinny" for the motor. They work well - they just look odd. And the eyelets really want to INSIST that the spoke nipples leave the rim squarely, which can make for a sharp bend as a result of the short distance between the flange on a hub motor and the actual rim.

The cheap-but-solid rim of choice for my last two wheels has been the Alex DM18. No eyelets, but the thing stays round and true much better than some of the really nasty rims I've had my mitts on. These are all double-walled with a machined finish.

As nice as the heavy gauge spokes may seem that ship with most motors, I think a quality 14 guage stainless spoke works better. I haven't broken enough of either kind of spoke to throw data at that claim, but the 14ga fit better than most of the cheap-but-fatter spokes that came with either the Goldens or the Crystalyte. Actually, the Crystalytes are sloppy around the head, and can be wiggled. Not snug to the flange at all, which sounds like a formula for wear and breakage to me.

You just have to contend with the odd spoke length you'll need. If your LBS doesn't have a spoke cutter/thread roller, they'll certainly be able to get ahold of whatever spoke length you wind up needing. The Alex DM18, for example, has an Effective Rim Diameter of 548mm. Armed with that, and one of the main online tools (I use http://www.bikeschool.com/spokes/, but the late Sheldon Brown's site has links to many others) and a few measurements off your hub, and away you go. For most motors, you're looking at a "cross-one" spoke pattern. On smaller motors like the Bafang, you can do "cross-two" without introducing too much of an angle at the rim, but it does make the clearance at the valve stem asymmetrical.

Lacing a wheel isn't really rocket science. If you pay attention to details and work EVENLY at the start, then truing/tensioning the wheel doesn't have to be a chore.

 

[mrgarci1]

Hey Phil, thanks for your thoughtful input. The LBS told me I'd be spending $60 on a rim- I'm looking at $20 for the Alex DM-18, which seems more like what I want to pay. I also really like what you have to say about using the 14-ga spokes, but I don't think I quite understand - I thought that the holes on the hub would determine the size of the spokes you had to use. Am I correct to infer that the flanges from quality 14ga spokes will fit properly into the holes on my hub that now hold 12ga spokes? (I know you can't say this for certain, not being able to see the hub, but is this the general idea with spokes?) Thanks again for the info.

 

[Anonymous]

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[philf]

Yup. With respect to the holes in the motor flange, they're countersunk (or should be). You'll find that this, in conjunction with the shape of the spoke heads, keeps things snug regardless of gauge. Using the really fat spokes on a different rim can sometimes necessitate reaming out the holes in the new rim to accommodate the larger nipples. Something else that using 14 guage avoids.

I find the spokes (usually plain steel) that come with most hub motors "stretchy". You get everything tight and true, and then after a few hundred kilometers, everything needs retightening again. Crystalyte seems worse for this in my limited experience. You go through that a couple of times before things settle down. Doesn't happen like that with stainless spokes (I've only used DT Swiss thus far).

 

[mrgarci1]

Hey Phil, this is great news. I'm glad I'm not the only one having problems with these spokes - when I really think about it, it seems like having thinner, higher-quality spokes & nipples installed on a quality rim by a professional would certainly trump having heavier gauge spokes poorly attached to a shitty rim.

This thread just saved me $100, I bet.

 

[carlerik]

mrgarci1

I'm having my Aotema motor from HighTek bikes (same as WE) relaced to a proper 700C rim for my hybrid bike. The rim supplied was for a huge 29er tire that my hybrid won't accommodate. I got a Mavic A319 ($55) which was recommended and double-walled with built-in eyelets. I'm not sure of rims for your bike since you didn't specify the size, but I would agree that the smaller spokes may well be fine for a motor application after all, although many sellers hype their stainless heavy duty spokes on a cheapo rim. The bike mechanics told me that even on my wide diameter 700c wheel, the spokes are so short cause of the motor that they are much stronger. They weren't even concerned about the simple 1-cross pattern since the spokes wouldn't be stressed as in a small hub (more crosses=greater spoke angle which "pulls" the rim more under hub drive rather than bending spokes sideways). The real strength come from the spoke tension, so it's important to be able to tighten them in the first place.

My LBS's charge $35-50 for labor, + $1 per spoke. I'll try to remember to post the outcome of my wheelbuild or you can check on the HighTek bike review thread.
Carl