Help i've blown my currie motor

okmate

10 W
Joined
May 3, 2012
Messages
65
Today is a very sad day for me :cry: I’ve burnt out my 300w 24v curie motor p/n 12500-2b 300watts bh2-002522

I was swapping all my motorized setup to another bike? I tested the motor but didn’t lift the back wheel off the floor and a small amount of smoke came out the motor I was gobsmaked' it’s been great since I’ve had it' I have checked the fuse and that was blown so replaced that but as soon as try to plug the motor in it starts to smoke.

So I guess I have a few options
1 repair it if it’s possible
2 buy a replacement
I’m pretty handy with a soldering iron and wiring if there’s anyone that can give some advice I would be very grateful
 
A replacement motor should be fairly cheap. In the USA, it may be avaliable at a scooter parts store website, or maybe ebay.

I'd be inclined to just replace it, because the cost should be pretty low. But nothing to lose whatsoever by taking it apart now. Isn't that a brushed motor? Could be just a brush replacement is all you need.

One USA source. seems a bit high to me though. https://www.curriestore.com/product/eZip-IZIP-Motor/459/

Nother one. http://www.thesuperkids.com/eztrelbi450w.html

I'm a bit suprised, I thought you could buy just the motor for one of these well under 75 bucks.
 
Here's under $100 at least. http://www.monsterscooterparts.com/24-volt-250-watt-gear-reduction-moto-9-tooth-8mm-05t-chain-sprocket-1018.html
 
Post pictures front and back of the motor, which Currie kit is it? the Izip is different to the USPD type of motors, they used brushless motors with the controllers built in to the motor, they used 2 different types, Kollmorgen and BMC, you really need to post pictures before we point you in the right direction, I have a box load of brand new Kollmorgen motors with built in controllers that will fit however you need to post pictures so we can advise.
 
here a few pictures guys i would like to thank you all for trying to help me out i really want to sort this problem out as i use it for work thanks guys
 

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Oh wow!! that is genuinely oldschool!! Look at the label - "MAC - BMC".. that is probably before the companies split up. This is a mid or early 2000's model, am i right?

Dogman, i think the motor you posted is incorrect and will require some fabrication and maybe a new controller as well, to run it. This motor might have an internal controller and be a 3 phase unit.

I would contact thesuperkids.com and see what they have.
 
that is the good old BMC-MAC 400W motor with the electronic controller built it.

most likely the motor itself is fine. It's the internal electronics that are blown. The reason for saying this will be apparent in a moment.

the first and easiest choice would be to replace it with the identical motor. you can buy them from
http://www.thesuperkids.com/600wabmcsuto.html

if it were mine i would upgrade to the 600W BMC motor for about $30 more.
http://www.thesuperkids.com/600wasutocue.html

now if you find that expensive. as an alternative you may consider taking the existing motor apart and modifying it to use an external controller. one of the board members did a tutorial on how to do that:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11772

then just add an appropriate 24V 25A or 35A controller like one from Lyen and you're out the door for under a hundred bucks plus a couple of hours labor.
it's your choice.

rick
 
neptronix said:
Oh wow!! that is genuinely oldschool!! Look at the label - "MAC - BMC".. that is probably before the companies split up. This is a mid or early 2000's model, am i right?

Dogman, i think the motor you posted is incorrect and will require some fabrication and maybe a new controller as well, to run it. This motor might have an internal controller and be a 3 phase unit.

I would contact thesuperkids.com and see what they have.

no, truly old school would be the original 400W brushed motor. it's also still available from many sources. but it is getting hard to find it with the required 8mm dia. "D" shaped output shaft to fit the planetary.

the Curries have been around for ages and are still used on new bike designs. over the years people have been adding bigger and bigger motors including the 1000W(Conservative) Transmagnetics brushed motors and the brushless 1000W PowerPak.

Currie has been languishing in chapter 11 for a couple of years but was recently bought by a European ebike manufacturer. i just can,t remember who at the moment. they now call themselves Currie Electro-Drive Technologies. along with new products (DD-Hubmotors) they still make the planetary reduction units.

rick
 
rkosiorek said:
that is the good old BMC-MAC 400W motor with the electronic controller built it.

most likely the motor itself is fine. It's the internal electronics that are blown. The reason for saying this will be apparent in a moment.

the first and easiest choice would be to replace it with the identical motor. you can buy them from
http://www.thesuperkids.com/600wabmcsuto.html

if it were mine i would upgrade to the 600W BMC motor for about $30 more.
http://www.thesuperkids.com/600wasutocue.html

now if you find that expensive. as an alternative you may consider taking the existing motor apart and modifying it to use an external controller. one of the board members did a tutorial on how to do that:
http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=16&t=11772

then just add an appropriate 24V 25A or 35A controller like one from Lyen and you're out the door for under a hundred bucks plus a couple of hours labor.
it's your choice.

rick
thanks man thats reall good to no and the price is great but only if you live in the states poor old me lives in the uk so the shipping is half as much again if i could buy one for that price i would i'm really thinking about taking it apart to repair it but the post doesnt really state too much in detail like which wires connect to the controller and so on but i must admit i'm loving this post you guys are awesome
 
Yes

Rick has answered your questions fully there, you can also put the KOL motor on there as well, its a little cheaper than the BMC however the internal controllers are a bit iffy, the best bet is to modify one like I did in this video, this was spoke twistingly fast, bit of a classic old video, the unit still works I just couldnt find a wheel strong enough :lol:

[googlevid]366332646555574705[/googlevid]
 
The Kollmorgen motors are far easier to convert to external controller than the BMC motors. If you watch Ebay you can still pick up the Koll motors for around $50, but they are getting harder to find at that price. The switch to external controller on one of them is fairly straightforward though. Good luck, you're in the right place. :)
 
speak of the devil knoxie! remember Joshua of EV-Solutions? I wa sjust talking to him a couple of days ago about the USPD-ProDrive kits he used to sell and your name came up. long time! glad you're still around.

okmate,

i live in Canada, the yanks consider me a foreigner as well. but i do know that shipping a few pounds of motor to the UK will not be cheap. so it is still a matter of economics. if you are willing to do the work you would not find it too hard. as it sits the motor is pretty useless to you anyways, so what do you have to loose?

take the motor apart. try not to damage the hall sensors that are glued into the stator. they are the little thingies with the wires coming out of them. post a few pictures and ask. someone will likely guide you a bit.

as for which hall wire goes with which hall signal to the controller? no body knows. this is something that you figure out experimentally when you are ready to do it. that is exactly what all of us (me. knoxie, fechter etc.) had to do when we got to that point. there are only six possible combinations. four will not work. one will work in reverse and one will work the right way. it is really not that hard after you do it the first time.

rick
 
knoxie said:
Yes

Rick has answered your questions fully there, you can also put the KOL motor on there as well, its a little cheaper than the BMC however the internal controllers are a bit iffy, the best bet is to modify one like I did in this video, this was spoke twistingly fast, bit of a classic old video, the unit still works I just couldnt find a wheel strong enough :lol:

[googlevid]366332646555574705[/googlevid]
that looks awesome have you still got the old motor?
think i will take mine apart the weekend and have a look whats inside
my next question is how do i no what controllers will work withmine i guess it will be24v as i already have the batterys but maybe i could add a couple more thinking about it i have a half a dozen in my shed so could be 24 36 or 48
 
Hi Rick

Yes good to hear from you too!! ahh the old days! almost 10 years ago I started this hobby! getting my USPD in the summer of 2003! mainly using the PA board back then with Randy Draper and Joshua, Joshua was very helpful back then and I loved his very British sense of humor for a Canadian :)

To answer the OP yes I do have the original motor but I think its also blown, it did last a long time though, all of these motors with the potted controllers werent that reliable, fitting an external controller as I did really puts the bike in to a different leauge however I used to love the simplicity of just the standard motor at times, although the speed isnt as quick they still climb hills really really well even using old lead acid batteries at 24V.

I do have Kollmorgen motors that you could just bolt straight on, however they aren't quite as fast as the original BMC but they have more torque so better for hill climbs so you would be better using one with an external controller like on the video, pretty much any brushless motor controller will work with the Kol or the BMC, I can provide you with the full wiring diagram for the Kol to your USPD or contact Fechter on this forum as he has modified the BMC as you may have seen on those links.

You may be better to get the BMC motor from the US though and see if they will mark it as a low dollar item and get it on the slow boat to save you some carriage costs and avoid import duty? most Vendors will do this.

The other thing is try contacting Tony Castles at electrodrive in the UK, he is a very helpful chap and was the fellow that I got my kit from in the first place, check his website out on http://www.electrodrive.co.uk or on his other site http://www.mr-motorvator.co.uk/ he might have an old motor kicking about.

I notice that you are using the lever throttle on your bike, a nice upgrade is the Magura twist throttle, I have a link buried on my old website here, a nice option if you suffer from the old achy thumb, it was the first modification that I did on the bike. http://knoxie.ath.cx/new%20site/electro/page-7.htm there is also a few other bits on that old site worth checking out too.

Another contact stateside worth checking out is Scott at ev deals too, check his site http://www.evdeals.com/ as he also used to stock the motors.

The USPD is still a great unit and formed for me a very happy introduction to this hobby, I have now moved on to hub motors in the main although I still run a modified USPD on my KMX cart, geared hub motors are a very good replacement for a USPD although you will have to also run an external controller, there is plenty of info on this site to help you out there.

Good luck

Knoxie
 
Hi chaps back again i've emailed all the above but had no responce my legs are starting to ache like never before need to sort my motor out has any one got any wiring diagrams as to what wires i need to find in my motor to connect to a controller
 
How technical are you? have you done much soldering etc etc as running the motor on an external controller is quite a job if you are not, I still think you might be better off putting a bolt on motor as originally mentioned, these kits sometimes come up on Ebay though so you might get a deal there but it would mean waiting whilst your legs fall off.

I am pretty sure my motor is a gonner but I will check it for you and if it isnt you can have it.

If you still want to run an external controller contact Richard Fechter, he is a moderator on the forum just search for his name, he will point you to his posts on the subject.
 
okmate said:
Hi chaps back again i've emailed all the above but had no responce my legs are starting to ache like never before need to sort my motor out has any one got any wiring diagrams as to what wires i need to find in my motor to connect to a controller


if you have the motor apart, take a few good pictures of all of the wiring inside. need that info to point out your wires.

rick
 
rkosiorek said:
okmate said:
Hi chaps back again i've emailed all the above but had no responce my legs are starting to ache like never before need to sort my motor out has any one got any wiring diagrams as to what wires i need to find in my motor to connect to a controller


if you have the motor apart, take a few good pictures of all of the wiring inside. need that info to point out your wires.

rick
thanks rick whats the best way to get the epoxy out i have a good heatgun is it a case of heatup and turn upside down to let it run out ?
 
I've been in the kitchen stripping the motor down
i've took some pictures hope they are ok guys'
i've been heating the base up with the heatgun' jesus it was hot the epoxy was coming out pretty easy with a sharp knife just not sure what wires i need to be concentrating on.
to be honest its a bit duaghting last thing i want to do is unseat a capaciter or something similer the least i have to pick out the better
 

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Hi chaps i've managed to get the stator off and cut away the wires i have a few questions now

is it wise to remove all the resin and capacitors out the base or should i leave them in a bit later i will also remove the power cable and the throttle cable so whats next guys i guess its time to buy a controller i havent a clue where to start i did try looking for our moderator but cant seem to find the links
i'm geting excited now
i did notice that the capacitor seems to have burnt out so with a bit of luck the motors fine
look forward to hearing of you guys
 

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oh dear i have soldered all wires heatshrinked all of them then added hot glue over the wires

but unfortunatly i forgot to make a note of which colour wires were attached to the hall sensors
is there a way to do a continuaty test from the top of the hall sensor circuit board
 
Hi guys i have just ordered my 12 FET 3077 Mark II Extreme Modder LYEN Edition Controller i cant wait' question is i will be running 48v i think? but used to run 24v and only have a 24v charger what would you guys do to charge the batterys ?
 
Use 1 charger and charge the 2 in pairs, I used to have 2 x chargers so i could charge at the same time, charge them in 2 pairs then series them together for 48V, you will of course need more batteries, or you could buy 4 lipos cells and a lipo charger, go with 2 more lead batteries first and see how you get on, I didnt like the weight so very quickly went to NIMH and then to Lipo.
 
thanks knoxie think i will add a 3 way switch to the batteries so i can isolate them at 24v when charging and have 2 charging ports on either side
 
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