Hi power inverter for Nissan leaf motor. Dyno's 302.3hp p15

My highest admiration Arlo!
Lebowski: Arlo once mentioned a possible error in menu 'g) control loop coefficients' / phase control loop, drive 2 / 'g) 3rd order'
He set it at 0.3 instead of 0.0299 (less than 1/40 of 'f) 2nd order' which is ~48 -> less than 1.2).
How did this end up?
 
Love the motormounts.. hahaha... definatly a solid mount by the looks of it..

did you need custom shafts? or did you hack something in there..

i wonder if you will snap one with a good set of rubber

-steveo
 
steveo said:
Love the motormounts.. hahaha... definatly a solid mount by the looks of it..

did you need custom shafts? or did you hack something in there..

i wonder if you will snap one with a good set of rubber

-steveo
Click to expand...
Yup quick install I use scrap steal to mount the motor. its solid... Spins smooth no need for rubber mounting.
I found the Honda Shaft OD was about .040 smaller then the Nissan Shaft ID and the Honda shaft was solid the Nissan was hollow so I was able to slide the Honda shaft into the Nissan shaft and weld the end.

My welding shop/fab shop friends have a suggestion on how to do it better by cutting a slot in the Nissan shaft with a cutting disc as they are super hard and no drill bit will touch them. What they suggest is cutting a slot on each side about 2 inches long and filling it with weld to distribute the torque down the shaft and not in one spot.
What I have now is welded in a circle around the shaft and it will snap.
But they need to be replaced because at the start of all this I tried to disassemble the outer Honda shafts with a big 10lb sledge and they did not come apart. I am sure that's the noise you hear when I spin it up in the video.
 
Arlo1 said:
steveo said:
Love the motormounts.. hahaha... definatly a solid mount by the looks of it..

did you need custom shafts? or did you hack something in there..

i wonder if you will snap one with a good set of rubber

-steveo
Click to expand...
Yup quick install I use scrap steal to mount the motor. its solid... Spins smooth no need for rubber mounting.
I found the Honda Shaft OD was about .040 smaller then the Nissan Shaft ID and the Honda shaft was solid the Nissan was hollow so I was able to slide the Honda shaft into the Nissan shaft and weld the end.

My welding shop/fab shop friends have a suggestion on how to do it better by cutting a slot in the Nissan shaft with a cutting disc as they are super hard and no drill bit will touch them. What they suggest is cutting a slot on each side about 2 inches long and filling it with weld to distribute the torque down the shaft and not in one spot.
What I have now is welded in a circle around the shaft and it will snap.
But they need to be replaced because at the start of all this I tried to disassemble the outer Honda shafts with a big 10lb sledge and they did not come apart. I am sure that's the noise you hear when I spin it up in the video.
Click to expand...

you will need to go with custom shafts at one point that have a really high hp rating/torque rating.. alot exists for honda // b or k series.. i don't know about a leaf motor in a crx LOL...

did you but end the two shafts or use like a hollow tube of metal and weld the two shafts into it?

i would maybe butt weld both shafts together.. and shave... grind it so its flush as possible.. then id put a metal tube over the welded shaft joints.... with holes drilled through some of it.. that way you could weld the ends.. and also weld in the holds for added strength..
strongest most hack way to do it .. but it should be supper strong if you ask me.. and cheaper till you get a good set of custom shafts :D
 
Custom shafts are on the list. I answered all the other questions in the last response. I don't think a but weld is a smart idea they will have 1668ft-lbs torqe (210ft-lbs at motor x 7.94:1 reduction ) with the OEM torque from the motor and I'm hopping for more with my inverter.
All in time.... Im pour at the moment and accepting donations ;)
 
emmgee said:
My highest admiration Arlo!
Lebowski: Arlo once mentioned a possible error in menu 'g) control loop coefficients' / phase control loop, drive 2 / 'g) 3rd order'
He set it at 0.3 instead of 0.0299 (less than 1/40 of 'f) 2nd order' which is ~48 -> less than 1.2).
How did this end up?
Click to expand...
just answered this in my controller IC thread, to keep Arlos thread here clean.
 
This is super cool, I don't understand it but I know enough to know that it's awesome! You worked really hard at this for a long time and I actually felt giddy watching your videos, I'm really happy that you succeeded. Congratulations man!
 
huh,i was so busy reading/responding in your development thread i didn't even know you had a sneaker over here! ha. i'm very glad to see you kept to the original promise that you would post everything you learned and all your development work open source for all. i know the work you put in to get here and i well understand the value of this thing so i really want to give #respect for keeping it open source.

your sneaker car is going to be awesome. you're going to make back all your $ invested on the strip in the first week. ;)

so what's next? you were saying about a charger??
 
Thanks Mr Hopes.
Yes I need to make a way to charge 470v... :(
Lots to do/add to the car like repair some rust and install a DC/DC (hoping the leaf DC/DC works) lots to do.... :) But It feels so amazing to be at this point. Thank you so much for your help.
 
Awesome work Arlo! Really impressive, can't wait to see this thing move!

For what it's worth, nobody I know has ever had any luck with welded driveshafts. Regardless of welding method the HAZ creates issues. Perhaps if you were to butt weld, true up on lathe, sleeve with plug welds and re-heat treat it would hold up to the torque but you're asking for trouble with imbalance/straightness issues on something that spins at wheel speed. For shafts to live they need a degree of flex, non homogeneous shafts tend to shatter.

Totally go with the hacked up shafts and run them till they pop, but honestly at that point I would just get something custom made by driveshaft shop - probably with some better CV's while you're at it. It might cost a bit but it's cheaper than entering track events with all the associated costs and time only to shit out shafts first burnout.

As others touched on you've chosen a good platform for attempting to go fast with a transverse engine package - there's a huge wealth of accumulated knowledge, experience and off the shelf parts to get these cars to go quick and survive :) Quite a lot of the tricks end up making for a shitty daily driver, but you'll be a while before you get to that level when you need to start to compromise.
 
Yes I need to make a way to charge 470v
Click to expand...

you can use the topology i have posted on ES. you just need to change the transformer to have turns ratio probably 1:1 or there abouts. also the secondary of this transformer would have to change to high volt rated parts because it is now 470V not 144V as in my charger. but i think the exact same topology could work for you. the challenge in the charger is in the magnetics design but its nothing to the level of challenge you have already surpassed so i'm sure we can figure it out. anyway.. all in good time.
 
Arlo1 said:
Thanks Mr Hopes.
Yes I need to make a way to charge 470v... :(
Lots to do/add to the car like repair some rust and install a DC/DC (hoping the leaf DC/DC works) lots to do.... :) But It feels so amazing to be at this point. Thank you so much for your help.
Click to expand...
Well, if you have 3-phase power you can build a charger based on the controller ic using regen. You will need 120 degree separated 3-phase, 3 inductors and the voltage of the three phase must be lower than the battery voltage...
 
Lebowski said:
Arlo1 said:
Thanks Mr Hopes.
Yes I need to make a way to charge 470v... :(
Lots to do/add to the car like repair some rust and install a DC/DC (hoping the leaf DC/DC works) lots to do.... :) But It feels so amazing to be at this point. Thank you so much for your help.
Click to expand...
Well, if you have 3-phase power you can build a charger based on the controller ic using regen. You will need 120 degree separated 3-phase, 3 inductors and the voltage of the three phase must be lower than the battery voltage...
Click to expand...
I do not have 3 phase...
But You can feed 1phase into a 3ph induction motor and get 3phase out...
Another thought I have is I might make a wireless charging setup. Using a spinning set of magnets on the ground that the car parks over and a rotating magnet assy on the car that syncs to the one on the ground this can have a method to change from 1ph to 3ph and at the same time make wireless charging. I would like to use the Inverter that drives the car to charge the battery as that would be a good way to move things forward for man kind and eliminate the need for big bulk on board chargers.
 
Updates to come soon. I will also try to edit all the files and add more info on what's been needed things like the double pulse tester and the Arduino for desat testing. Right now I'm making new CV shafts that should get me by until I add the 800 amp igbts back in and or slicks.
I'm also working on designing a precharge circuit with a Arduino which will also read and display the battery voltage. I'm in the process of looking for analog voltage measuring chips that are isolated.

OH SNAP as I type this I realize what If I just use a non regulated isolated power supply? Can that be accurate enough? All I need is 0-5v output and I can use almost any input as I will just make a voltage divider off the main traction pack.
 
Arlo1 said:
Updates to come soon. I will also try to edit all the files and add more info on what's been needed things like the double pulse tester and the Arduino for desat testing. Right now I'm making new CV shafts that should get me buy until I add the 800 amp igbts back in and or slicks.
I'm also working on designing a precharge circuit with a Arduino which will also read and display the battery voltage. I'm in the process of looking for analog voltage measuring chips that are isolated.

OH SNAP as I type this I realize what If I just use a non regulated isolated power supply? Can that be accurate enough? All I need is 0-5v output and I can use almost any input as I will just make a voltage divider off the main traction pack.
Click to expand...


IIRC, Maxim makes an off-the-shelf chip setup for isolated current shunt measurements and isolated pack voltage measurements and spits out an already converted to digital for your arduino value.
 
its arduino time!

i just got mine recently too. haven't powered it up yet but but will soon. need to figure out how to make a DC motor drive with this thing
 
OH SNAP as I type this I realize what If I just use a non regulated isolated power supply? Can that be accurate enough? All I need is 0-5v output and I can use almost any input as I will just make a voltage divider off the main traction pack.
Click to expand...

are you talking about how to power your arduino? yes you can supply it with an unregulated isolated power supply to provide power to arduino because on the arduino board they have their own regulator chip to create the 5V it needs. what i am doing with my 48Vdc traction bus is isolated to 12V and then feed this 12V to the arduino uno. i want 12V as my intermediate supply because i can do a lot with this 12v, not just supply an arduino.
 
Arduino are awesome. I think I have a few in my inventory. 1 running my dyno 1 for desat testing 1 for double pulse testing and about 4 more ready for projects.

What I was talking about with the Un-regulated Isolated supply is I can use it as a analog voltage signal. Like this Traction pack > Voltage divider> to the input of the DC/DC >out of the DC/DC > the Arduino analog 0-5v input. And program the Arduino to read/and display the traction pack with a simple calibration which should stay the same.
 
Managed to sell off some old mopar parts to a guy who found out about my 69 road runner and the EFI I built for it. He left excited about EVs and took some scrap metal and left me some money ;) It feels good to purge ICE scrap for money for EV parts. :)
Luckily the Honda shafts slide inside the Nissan shafts :)
Minutes later I had some new shafts and immediately after that I chopped them up :)

These should last until I get the power cranked right up with slicks then at that point I am expecting to get stronger shafts.
I spun the motor to the rev limiter at 10k and the shafts seem to spin smooth now.
 

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Made it move under its own power for the first time today.
If you listen you can here a oscillation this is all drive 2 (hall sensored) I think where it konks out is where it try's to transition to sensorless.
Oh and the knob on the dash is a variable regen knob. So when its stopped sometimes the motor is pulsating back and forth so I turn down the regen and the pulsation goes away.
[youtube]pPypWw4AigE[/youtube]
 
Ok this might explain the use of a DC/DC as a isolated voltage signal.
[youtube]xWUN9FaqkSs[/youtube]
 
Great progress.

Too complicated for pure trigger point. Why dont you use an opto isolator to measure the voltage drop over the "second" cont actor. Once the voltage drop is low enough have the opto turn off. Playing with resistors will get you the desired result.

ltspice voltage drop.jpg
 
love the drive shaft mods..

similar to how i mentioned to weld it .. sort of...

now you can tell us how much hp// torque they are good for before they snap :twisted:
 
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