HLG-600-54A as a charger

[transposon]

I just received a Meanwell HLG-600-54A. I'd like to use it to charge my ebike battery. Uponin spection, it has 2 outputs and a third set of wires that looks like it is for a pot to control current.

How are people wiring this up to make a charger? Are you putting the two power outputs in parallel?

Does the 3rd set of wires need to be set up with a pot, or can it just be left alone and I can use the internal pots behind the rubber caps.

Thanks!

 

[amberwolf]

AFAICR both outputs are wired in parallel internally. If you need the full 11-12A over long cable lengths and you find the wires get warm, you can use both sets of wires to your charge port. I'm only using a single set of output wires to charge at the maximum possible rate for my onboard/built-in charger on SB Cruiser; I think I present have the voltage set to 56v for my EIG NMC 14s pack. (4v / cell; I used to set it to 4.1v but the cells are over a decade old).

The manual (attached) says tthat for the B or AB versions, the other set is for remote *dimming*, as well as enable/disable. For just the A version (like I have) the other set of wires is for remote enable/disable of the unit. These can all be left disconnected if not in use. It's marked on the label of the unit at the cable end for which wire is which, for each of the different cables, or in the attached images.

Adjustment is done via the pots under the caps. Voltage is adjusted without it connected to the pack, and current is adjusted with it connected to a discharged pack (or other load that will draw that maximum current) so you can set the maximum current.


If like me you are permanently wiring the charger in, and the pack has a common charge/discharge port (instead of separate ones) you can wire it to the controller side of any shunt/wattmeter you are using (Cycle Analyst in my case) so you can use that to measure the charge current / capacity if desired.

Because the blue LED on the MW is directly connected to the output wiring, then if you have no disconnect / switch between the controller and battery, you can add a schottky diode of appropriate current / voltage rating between the positive of the MW output and the positive battery connection, so that it cannot drain the pack if left for a long time. (is only a few mA, so it would take quite a while for a big pack). I have a battery cutoff I always use when walking away from the trike, so I don't need this.


BTW, to be sure, is yours HLG-600-54A, or HLG-600H-54A?

Mean Well HLG-600H-54A

Mean Well HLG-600H-54A AC-DC Single output LED driver Mix mode (CV+CC); Output 54Vdc at 11.2A; IP65; cable output; CC/CV adjust with potmeter

www.meanwell-web.com

https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HLG-600H/LED.pdf

https://www.meanwell-web.com/content/files/pdfs/productPdfs/MW/HLG-600H/HLG-600H-spec.pdf

I've only ever worked with the H version, and couldn't find a manual or datasheet for a non-H version, so I don't know what the differences are.

 

[labrat]

I love the HLGs, and have several for bike charging. I have a question about HLG input. Meanwell shows these as accepting: 90 ~ 305VAC 127 ~ 431VDC. So, has anyone tried to run these on DC input? Like, say, the 400 VDC available from an EV battery pack?

Edit, I will likely try one the HLGs with a DC power source--maybe three 12s packs in series....and a circuit breaker. See what happens.

 

[amberwolf]

If it's rated for DC input, then it's "guaranteed" to work with it, as long as your voltage is within the rated range.

I haven't tested mine (HLG-600H-54A) with DC input, as I don't have anything with high enough voltage except the batteries I would charge with it, if I seriesed all three of them, leaving nothing to charge as a test.

 

[labrat]

I have several of the HLGs for various uses, and I am willing to test (sacrifice?) a 240H-15 with 142 volts DC. That would be a 12s pack + 12s pack + 3 LIGO (LIGOs are paralleled)= 142 volts. And a 600 VDC breaker between them.

It would be pretty cool if they actually work as a low cost DC-DC converter capable of ingesting 400 volts, +90% efficient, great MTBF specs, and having CC + CV goodness .

 

[peadar]

I have several of the HLGs for various uses, and I am willing to test (sacrifice?) a 240H-15 with 142 volts DC. That would be a 12s pack + 12s pack + 3 LIGO (LIGOs are paralleled)= 142 volts. And a 600 VDC breaker between them.

It would be pretty cool if they actually work as a low cost DC-DC converter capable of ingesting 400 volts, +90% efficient, great MTBF specs, and having CC + CV goodness .

How di it work out?

 

[riba2233]

I run one with 160vdc input, no problems at all.

 

[harrisonpatm]

I might start a different thread, but since the responders here seem to be in the know...

Does this line offer any DC-DC boost converters? I want to use my home's 48vdc nominal battery to charge my planned 120vdc motorcycle, and it would be great if I could skip AC for that purpose. Currently I use a basic Aliexpress boost converter for my 84vdc charge, and it works great. But I want my next battery to be higher voltage, and it's harder to find components over 100v.

 

[riba2233]

I don't think so, these are mainly for driving LED's from line voltage.

 

[amberwolf]

Meanwell themselves do also make DC-DC's, and even DC-input LED PSUs...but the HLG line isn't designed for that.

Since they're all SMPSes, they'll very likely operate from some range of DC voltage input...but because you're only using half the rectifier as input, it's likely that it wouldn't handle the full input power (how much less, you can only know if you know what the rectifier parts are to find their specs).