I hope to find a harness description for a Fardriver 721800. I’ve lost what goes where, :(

[Bobby June]

I had to disassemble the harness encasing and separate all of the wires so that I can lower the profile of the entire FarDriver controller.

I made fairly good notes on each wire however, on some flame-based work, I burned some of the masking tape labels I applied to certain wires.

yay!

I’ve tried to look really hard on the web, but I just cannot find a description for my particular controller as to which wire goes where. I’ve asked SIA for a diagram, but they haven’t gotten back to me.

I find diagrams for Fardrivers but it’s for a different model and I’m sure the wires are different

Any idea what I should do? And is there any concern about these wires creating a catastrophe that I’m not aware of if I hooked them up incorrectly or maybe better said, is there any specific wire that is definitely a NoNo when trying to move it around to test? I’ve got the orange ignition wire placed.

I’ve got to take better notes. This is stupid.

 

[dominik h]

The wires from my 721800 are exactly the same as in the manual.

 

[Bobby June]

The wires from my 721800 are exactly the same as in the manual.
View attachment 345280View attachment 345281View attachment 345282

wOw! Dominik....really....I didn’t think anyone would even come up with a good link. You, my friend, not only have the knowledge that your controller matches, precisely, the 7721800.........but that you also own a 721800!

Thank you so much for that effort. And having such a manual. Really, happy new year!!!

Now let me go Decipher their damn chart.each time I see it I think, damn. That’s just lame.

The wires from my 721800 are exactly the same as in the manual.
View attachment 345280View attachment 345281View attachment 345282

 

[Bobby June]

Well, let me dial that ‘lame’ comment back. Your manual is done totally clearly. No comparison to others I’ve seen.

(((o(*ﾟ▽ﾟ*)o)))

You wouldn’t, by chance have a link so that I can order what you have as a manual? I’ve never seen them offered. If it takes more than a minute, I find one....now that I know they exist.

 

[dominik h]

I bought the 721800 half a year ago from someone who wanted to put it in his stealth bicycle.
At the moment I'm trying to max out the ND72680 in my scooter , and see if 25kw is accelerating fast enough for me. Otherwhise I have to rebuilt everything and change either to an ND96850 which I bought 2 years ago or to the ND721800, but for both I have to take out my battery again and make changes at the wiring as my build was only planed for a Sabvoton SVMC72260 with 250bA.
But the big sabvoton died during playing with field weakening and I had to make a step back to a SVMC72150 before I changed to the fardriver.


Here are the things I have found in the internet and here on ES. But it is like the most translated chinese manuals not perfect at all and leaves a lot of questions.
Also good the read is the KO-Motor Controller description as they also use fardriver.

Link to fardriver wiring

 

[Bobby June]

Nice the luxury of a scooters length and width and low center of gravity nothing but hey look great. I’m with you on the rear caliper I put a nice bramble on mine it’s I haven’t tried it yet but I’m sure yours rocks.

I thought those were ready we’re a bunch of controllers oh my God those are your battery separated OK.

Yeah if you have to redo battery work I mean OK BMS is one thing bad enough.... but if you have to start yanking souls apart then forget about it. I made my pack so damn solid are used epoxy that she’s never coming apart I don’t care. Last thing I want is a‘s to drop the bike and have cells separate short whatever so I just made it solid your cases are killer talk about even more protection mines just 330 Mollee sells down together

Thank you for all that paperwork and let me tell you I was working on my bike as far as that goes all day yesterday and your documents were right there on my iPad. There seems to be a couple conflicting items but I think it’s conflicting due to my errors so I’m double checking everything I had one throttle ground in the wrong spot and the bike yanked backwards it was crazy.

That 96860, is that as performint as the 721800? I don’t know the specs on it. What’s your top speed? How many amps are you able to suck out of the batt?

 

[Bobby June]

Oh now that I read it again, that Sabaton....wow you’re gonna have to get copper, sandwich the hell out of it l, you’re gonna be hacking sells apart. damn .....but it’s worth it.

 

[Bobby June]

I mean, I don’t want to sound like a surprise fool every time but shit! those docs are killer! I mean there’s almost too much information in that shit. it’s like oh my God.

For the first time in a long time actually I’m gonna have to actually print these on the printer it’s getting irritating look at them on the screen.

Thanks for those talk about a learning curve

 

[dominik h]

When the battery was out the last time I upgraded to 40x3mm copper busbars. The 21S5P 7,7kwh pack can handle up to 800A continious. Actually I draw 300A and have at this load 4V of sag.
But my two halfs of the battery are connected with 6x6mm² so the limit is somwhere around 350-400A. For more I have to redo this flexible connection and the connection to the 21st cell.
To fit this battery I had to lenghten the wheelbase.

The BMS can do 200A continious and 350A peak and perhaps a little more. But I will test this when I change to a new version of the JK-BMS with integrated battery heating as my external temperature controller sucks. Every winter there is another problem with the temperature controller. I will test my old JK-BMS with up to 500A , as this is the maximum the electronic load at work can draw and then we will see what happens.
My scooter is limited to 115km/h 71mph as the 5kw hub motor is thermally limited. For shure I could drive up to 80mph with it but only for a few seconds before it overheats or something melts.
During the first day with the ND72680 I melted the 13,3mm² AWG6 phase wires.
The 72680 can do 350bA and 680pA
the 96850 can do 450bA and 850pA but with up to 122Vdc

The SVMC72260 was 260bA and 550pA
The SVMC72150 was 150bA and 350pA and quite slow at start.

 

[Bobby June]

When the battery was out the last time I upgraded to 40x3mm copper busbars. The 21S5P 7,7kwh pack can handle up to 800A continious. Actually I draw 300A and have at this load 4V of sag.
But my two halfs of the battery are connected with 6x6mm² so the limit is somwhere around 350-400A. For more I have to redo this flexible connection and the connection to the 21st cell.
To fit this battery I had to lenghten the wheelbase.

The BMS can do 200A continious and 350A peak and perhaps a little more. But I will test this when I change to a new version of the JK-BMS with integrated battery heating as my external temperature controller sucks. Every winter there is another problem with the temperature controller. I will test my old JK-BMS with up to 500A , as this is the maximum the electronic load at work can draw and then we will see what happens.
My scooter is limited to 115km/h 71mph as the 5kw hub motor is thermally limited. For shure I could drive up to 80mph with it but only for a few seconds before it overheats or something melts.
During the first day with the ND72680 I melted the 13,3mm² AWG6 phase wires.
The 72680 can do 350bA and 680pA
the 96850 can do 450bA and 850pA but with up to 122Vdc

The SVMC72260 was 260bA and 550pA
The SVMC72150 was 150bA and 350pA and quite slow at start.

Oh man I’m screwed that 72 1800s going to fry my QS 273 wires I really wanted to change that. I got an axle to drill out but I didn’t have a chance so I’ve got I’ve got to hug wires going back to the QS don’t know what they are. 16, 1612 gauge.

But thanks for that because I will ride it really slow and I have a phase meter but that’s going to help. Maybe I should put a temperature sensor right on that wire

Speaking of temperature sensors yeah but I live in California so I don’t experience cold weather but I can imagine the shocking difference to all sorts of different equipment but especially electric and stuff. Yeah you really want to get everything warm and cozy.

So you’re saying and I’m hoping my battery does this I want 800 A to for my battery to get into the FarDriver you know my FarDriver’s 800 and1800 so I would love it if my battery Peter 800 and it might I don’t know I haven’t had a meter on it yet. Haven’t run it yet but you can get 800 huh that’s killer killer

 

[Bobby June]

wOw! Dominik....really....I didn’t think anyone would even come up with a good link. You, my friend, not only have the knowledge that your controller matches, precisely, the 7721800.........but that you also own a 721800!

Thank you so much for that effort. And having such a manual. Really, happy new year!!!

Now let me go Decipher their damn chart.each time I see it I think, damn. That’s just lame.

Dominik! I hope you can help. I’ve got one simple question that will let me use everything you sent me to get my controller hooked up. And the question is:

As shown in the shot in the position it sits, which pin is number one? Or the same question would also work as - which pin takes the Orange wire?

 

[Bobby June]

For example, here’s a FD pin set up. Looks flopped left to right. But if correct, this would tell me evertihing since the controller is drawn along with the pin layout.

 

[dominik h]

Sorry,
I have already installed my 721800 and have no easy possibility to have a look at it.
Running it with 400A battery current and 1400A phase current with the new QS273 72V10kw 60h motor it feels like driving a mid size motorcycle.
Here is a picture from the 96850 plug, but I'm not shure ift it has the same pinout as the 721800.
The colours do not match completly

 

[Bobby June]

Sorry,
I have already installed my 721800 and have no easy possibility to have a look at it.
Running it with 400A battery current and 1400A phase current with the new QS273 72V10kw 60h motor it feels like driving a mid size motorcycle.
Here is a picture from the 96850 plug, but I'm not shure ift it has the same pinout as the 721800.
The colours do not match completly
View attachment 350901

Well thank you for that.

But damn!!! 400a with 1400 phase! You have my dream. So stoked for you, man! So is it a low end beast or more top end. And how fast how’ve you pushed it to!!????

 

[dominik h]

0-100kph in 6.5seconds. My scooter is 190kg heavy without me, I´m adding another 90kg.
It would be faster if the BMS could handle more than 400A , but I fried one while testing with constant 500A after 13 seconds.
It actually reaches 0.8g peak acceleration between the first and the second second. With 500-600A five seconds to 100kph could be possible. The Fardriver needs about a 1 second to reach the 400A Battery current. If I would raise the phase current, the Fardrive rwould reach the 400A faster. But when driving slowly higher settings make the ride very uncomfortable.

How fast I have not tested yet.
I have limited it to 120kph, with dropping power already at 95kph. I will probably change to dropping power over 100kph after the first longer uphill drive.

I think it will do 140-150kph, but the brakes are not big enough for that.

It does not spin the rear wheel on good roads and dry conditions, but I had already a few freaking moments in not so good conditions.

 

[Bobby June]

0-100kph in 6.5seconds. My scooter is 190kg heavy without me, I´m adding another 90kg.
It would be faster if the BMS could handle more than 400A , but I fried one while testing with constant 500A after 13 seconds.
It actually reaches 0.8g peak acceleration between the first and the second second. With 500-600A five seconds to 100kph could be possible. The Fardriver needs about a 1 second to reach the 400A Battery current. If I would raise the phase current, the Fardrive rwould reach the 400A faster. But when driving slowly higher settings make the ride very uncomfortable.

How fast I have not tested yet.
I have limited it to 120kph, with dropping power already at 95kph. I will probably change to dropping power over 100kph after the first longer uphill drive.

I think it will do 140-150kph, but the brakes are not big enough for that.

It does not spin the rear wheel on good roads and dry conditions, but I had already a few freaking moments in not so good conditions.

Nice stats. And especially the less-favorable grrl it gives you when kinda maxed. Those are the things (even like “burning out while riding”) that give you an, oh! I got you realization. Man, yeah, if it’s a little wet and you’re high power yet haven’t really practiced it ‘that’ particular situation, it’s where crash bars and a leather jacket mean something.

Thank again. I’ll be sending you my stats once I’m up. I got past a single beeping phase signal wire error but now have this strange ‘turn throttle beep stays on until I turn throttle off.

Thank Dom