Hello, could you please help me? I have a problem with my Kelly KHB12401. I have a homemade 18kW BLDC motor. Motor voltage is 100V so the current should be 180A for 18kW power. I have eight 12V Pb car batteries 80Ah as a power supply. My problem is that I am not supposed to put into the motor more motor current (in the three motor passes) than 90A and something about 40A battery current(cable between battery and controller). I have measured the current values with my clamp Ameter. My controller just doesn't provide enough current. So the motor has really low torque an it starts to shake when the load is too high. It seems me like the controller doesn't supply enough current to the motor. What could be wrong? I have an original Kelly single control box. In torque mode the torque and the revolutions of the motor increases in the first half of the potentiometers way and the battery current is max around 40A. It is quite the same at speed mode. The revolutions increase in the first half of potentiometers way and the max battery current is around 30A. I have already checked my motor and controller wiring resistance and it seems all right. That's why I assume, that my controller setting is wrong. My motor current settings is 100% and my battery current settings is also 100%. My throttle control settings is 0-5V but I have already tried 0-5K settings with no change. What can be wrong? Can you please help me? Thank you for some suggestions.
Kelly controller doesn't provide enough current
- Thread starter Mirek
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izeman
1 GW
you have a mighty controller there. i can't imagine that it can't output more than 100A phase as the much smaller one can do that easily. so you're right. there must be something wrong.
your controller can do 400A phase peak. so if you set current to 100%, then it should output 400A phase current during motor start. more or less. but not only 100A. that's for sure.
are you sure that your batteries can supply enough current? i don't have much experience with lead acid, but they are known to sag a lot under pressure. are those fully charged and powerful enough? i mean: did you have success to power another e-vehicle with them before?
under regular conditions, like driving uphill under fully open throttle you should see 180A battery current @100V for your wanted 18kW. like you said.
what i remember from my last kelly configurations it DOES matter what type of throttle you set. imho you can set 5k throttle or hall throttle. what kind of throttle do you use, and what did you set it too?
are you sure you're running it in forward? kellys can be set to reduce speed/power when in reverse. maybe you run it in reverse w/o knowing?
so enough questions asked, now waiting for your answers
what would help are screenshots of all config steps taken!!
your controller can do 400A phase peak. so if you set current to 100%, then it should output 400A phase current during motor start. more or less. but not only 100A. that's for sure.
are you sure that your batteries can supply enough current? i don't have much experience with lead acid, but they are known to sag a lot under pressure. are those fully charged and powerful enough? i mean: did you have success to power another e-vehicle with them before?
under regular conditions, like driving uphill under fully open throttle you should see 180A battery current @100V for your wanted 18kW. like you said.
what i remember from my last kelly configurations it DOES matter what type of throttle you set. imho you can set 5k throttle or hall throttle. what kind of throttle do you use, and what did you set it too?
are you sure you're running it in forward? kellys can be set to reduce speed/power when in reverse. maybe you run it in reverse w/o knowing?
so enough questions asked, now waiting for your answers
what would help are screenshots of all config steps taken!!
Hi izeman, thank you for your reply.
The bateries are just normal 12V 80Ah car batteries in series. But I think they should provide enough current, shouldn't they? I didn't try them in another e-car project, but when you start a car, the current consumption is maybe about 200 amps, isn't it? So I guess my 40 amps are really too low.
Throttle config: I use original control box from Kelly http://kellycontroller.com/single-controller-control-boxkhb-p-773.html. In the hyperlink you can see wiring diagram. I don't know how to find if it is 0-5V or 0-5k. But I didn't recognize any change when I switched this two options. Did you know what option is right?
Running forward: I am sure I am running it forward. And I also have controllers run backwards settings on full speed. Just for sure. I will make the screenshots of my config and I post it here. Thank you for all your suggestion.
The bateries are just normal 12V 80Ah car batteries in series. But I think they should provide enough current, shouldn't they? I didn't try them in another e-car project, but when you start a car, the current consumption is maybe about 200 amps, isn't it? So I guess my 40 amps are really too low.
Throttle config: I use original control box from Kelly http://kellycontroller.com/single-controller-control-boxkhb-p-773.html. In the hyperlink you can see wiring diagram. I don't know how to find if it is 0-5V or 0-5k. But I didn't recognize any change when I switched this two options. Did you know what option is right?
Running forward: I am sure I am running it forward. And I also have controllers run backwards settings on full speed. Just for sure. I will make the screenshots of my config and I post it here. Thank you for all your suggestion.
izeman
1 GW
starting a car for a few seconds and running an e-vehicle are two totally different applications.
did you notice the massive voltage sag when turning the start key of your car? and you ask more then 1c discharge from a lead acid pack. this massively reduces the capacity that can be taken out of the battery. probably to about half it's rated capacity. so probably 40Ah. so your battery will be empty in about 30min if ridden hard. but that's just a rough assumption, assuming that your batteries are new and good quality.
the wiring shows a potentiometer for throttle and brake. but that doesn't mean that the controller doesn't see 0-5V. if you tried both option and it doesn't change, then this shouldn't be the problem.
one more idea: are you sure that hall detection worked out well?
did you connect the PC or android phone to the controller and watched the output of the kelly program in the monitor tab?
let's see the config, and then we probably find something.
did you notice the massive voltage sag when turning the start key of your car? and you ask more then 1c discharge from a lead acid pack. this massively reduces the capacity that can be taken out of the battery. probably to about half it's rated capacity. so probably 40Ah. so your battery will be empty in about 30min if ridden hard. but that's just a rough assumption, assuming that your batteries are new and good quality.
the wiring shows a potentiometer for throttle and brake. but that doesn't mean that the controller doesn't see 0-5V. if you tried both option and it doesn't change, then this shouldn't be the problem.
one more idea: are you sure that hall detection worked out well?
did you connect the PC or android phone to the controller and watched the output of the kelly program in the monitor tab?
let's see the config, and then we probably find something.
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