Kuberg Start help needed

[bikesandcars]

Hello,

I have a 16' Kuberg Start. 24V upgraded with LIPO batteries.

It stopped working after a muddy ride / washing and I've troubleshooted it back to the controller. The controller output to the motor shows -2.7 volts with 0 throttle and 22 volts full throttle, but the motor won't turn (no amps?) . The motor turns fine directly wired. I think it's the controller.

I called kuberg, they want over $200 for the controller but wont guarantee it and suggested I think about $300 for a new wiring kit because with my "old" bike they don't have replacement parts they can guarantee.

Having a 3 year old bike that isn't supported along with the high asking price for what should be a $60 controller has pissed me off.

I'm searching for a 24V controller replacement but I'd really like one with some kind of speed control, even if it's just a 3 position switch.

Any help / suggestions?

I'm thinking of getting a more affordable 24V 1000W controller and using a potentiometer in line with the throttle to limit power.

 

[Chopsieze]

Did you ever find a solution? Have one that I believe the board has also failed. Thanks.

 

[momcanbuildit]

Hello,

I have a 16' Kuberg Start. 24V upgraded with LIPO batteries.

It stopped working after a muddy ride / washing and I've troubleshooted it back to the controller. The controller output to the motor shows -2.7 volts with 0 throttle and 22 volts full throttle, but the motor won't turn (no amps?) . The motor turns fine directly wired. I think it's the controller.

I called kuberg, they want over $200 for the controller but wont guarantee it and suggested I think about $300 for a new wiring kit because with my "old" bike they don't have replacement parts they can guarantee.

Having a 3 year old bike that isn't supported along with the high asking price for what should be a $60 controller has pissed me off.

I'm searching for a 24V controller replacement but I'd really like one with some kind of speed control, even if it's just a 3 position switch.

Any help / suggestions?

I'm thinking of getting a more affordable 24V 1000W controller and using a potentiometer in line with the throttle to limit power.

I have the same bike. Wanting to see if you remembered how the wiring for the batteries was supposed to go. One of my kids thinking they were being helpful took all the connectors off and I haven't a clue where they go.
Any help is appreciated. Jen

 

[amberwolf]

If it's 12v blocks of lead-acid (SLA) then there is probably a fat black wire that goes away from the battery area along with a fat red one, then some shorter wire sections that will go between the blocks.

If so, then the fat black wire goes to the first block's - terminal, which may also have a black color around or on it. The fat red wire goes to the block at the other end of the stack on it's + termnal which may also have a red color around or on it.

Then a short jumper wires go from + of the first block to - of the next, and if there are more jumpers the next goes from + of that block to - of the next, until you have run out of jumpers and the batteries are all connected in a series string from - to + between them (but NEVER the same wire to + and - on the *same* block, always to a different one) .