My Bafang Ultra Mountain Bike! Frey AM1000

Cruncher123 said:
efMX Trials Electric Freeride said:
Cruncher123 said:
Ivanovitch_k said:
This bike is nice, but if I had to choose between the excess and the frey, I would still go for the frey.

The selling points of the Excess vs the AM1000 are the carbon frame and the dt swiss e-bike wheels. But, IMO, a carbon frame is not suited for an extreme torque platform like the bafang ultra :/ ...

Besides that, it's got shit-tier Hailong battery case, and an okey-ish sram GX (slightly more resistant than the shimanos XT, but nowhere near the EX-1).

Would they have gone EX1 (or better IGH like Kindernay / Rohloff) + Reention or even custom design frame battery + AL frame with a better & lighter build quality than frey (not hard, sorry Frey :lol: ), this would be a killer setup !

The sheer gorgeousness of it's appearance has me drooling - yes, some compromises were made, but as an overall package, I haven't seen anything that's even close at that price point (or any price point) with a 1000w motor.

The choices to date have been to accept a nicely-designed Euro emtb with 250/350w/36v battery or a rather inelegant/chunky Chinese frame with 1000w/48v. I reluctantly chose power, but I wanted both - and the Exess was as close as I could find.

I was hoping Luna would finally start selling the Apollo, but it's been months and no further word about it that I'm aware of.

on Luna's facebook group Eric said that they would be releasing Apollo within the next couple weeks (by end of may, early june??) and hosting a release party .. so should be soon, but I wonder how much they will cost.. looks kinda pricey ..

reference :
https://facebook.com/groups/1185457111501917?view=permalink&id=1667505676630389

Link leads me to a non-existent page :!: I'd love to see more details of the Apollo

link works for me.. its a "closed group" so one needs to be in the group to view the content.. if interested search facebook for "Fast Electric Bike" group and join if desired .. so just a heads up that Apollo release now seems imminent, within weeks not months.. once released, Apollo should be listed on the luna site as well so maybe check back there in a couple weeks..
 
Received my bike today. No shipping damage at all, which was nice. Very well packed.

Took a month or so longer than expected due to the Chinese New Year, needing a different freight company to deliver to my door, and a bit of a customs kerfuffle about ebikes needing import permits in Australia. Needles to say Ivy was very helpful the whole way along.

Having a bit of trouble setting the correct sag on the rear shock as my pump adaptor head is too large and interferes with the suspension arm. It's about 40% instead of the ideal 25-30% (the test rider was obviously lighter than me). Will pick up an adaptor hose from my local bike shop to rectify this asap.

Wish this battery would hurry up and charge it's a beautiful day for a ride outside.

Ojpxphh.jpg
 
Well that could have gone better.

Battery finished charging. Went for a test ride, in lowest gear, eco mode 3, 15 seconds into the ride, starting up a steep hill and the derailleur snapped off between the adjustment limit screws. Waiting to hear back from Frey. :(
 
Tom L said:
Well that could have gone better.

Battery finished charging. Went for a test ride, in lowest gear, eco mode 3, 15 seconds into the ride, starting up a steep hill and the derailleur snapped off between the adjustment limit screws. Waiting to hear back from Frey. :(

Yikes. Can you share a picture?
 
Any idea should there be any foul play on front hub? Novatec D041SB-B15. The hub is making nasty clonk sound even when rotated on hand, there´s couple of millimeters loose on both sides of the hubs, could the bearings be shot? Is there a way to tighten it up or something, completely new to this kind of hubs :?
 
nataS@phnet.fi said:
Any idea should there be any foul play on front hub? Novatec D041SB-B15. The hub is making nasty clonk sound even when rotated on hand, there´s couple of millimeters loose on both sides of the hubs, could the bearings be shot? Is there a way to tighten it up or something, completely new to this kind of hubs :?

When the box comes, there are protection plates on the side, right? In my case when taking those off I accidentally took the spacers off too.
 
I managed to shoot a little video with the AM-1000 last Sunday. My dog insisted to come with me so I am not going very fast but the dog ist actually quite fun to watch and really enjoys it. Do not expect anything fancy. It is just a relaxed ride in the park behind my house. I hope you like it despite my lack of any riding skills:

https://youtu.be/y2h4RrkNjgU

Cheers,

Kerim
 
Hi,

Here I want to answer 2 points as below:
"the bearing itself is seated properly, the bolt covering it too long resulting in the gap. Previous AM1000 did not even have this cover on the bearing-retaining bolt. I don't know if it is resolved."
We are improving the bolt covering to fit surface better now. I will upload some photo tomorrow.

About gear sensor, we will add it as a basic offer if most of customer need it or it can be choose depend on your demands. if add a gear sensor, it will protect the chain and cassette better and it require some riding skill when you use it during climbing, otherwise, sometimes, it can shifter properly or in right time because of the power cutting when shifting.

Ivanovitch_k said:
Cruncher123 said:
Placed an order for the base bike - about 1 month delivery estimate.

But I have a few questions:

Curious if I should ask/request any upgrades? Is it worth upgrading the rear shock or front fork? (I plan to ride some single track.but not do large jumps etc)

suspensions upgrades are always nice. However, I saw someone mention they upgraded to Sram EX-1 groupset (e-bike reinforced derailleur, chain, and 8-speed cassette) from Frey (to be confirmed).
IMO, this is the better upgrade this bike can have, the stock 11-speed XT is not rated at all for this much torque... If I recall, someone in this thread already experienced cassette failure.


Cruncher123 said:
I did request a couple of spare derailleur hangers. I also asked about a second wheelset so I could quickly convert to more road-friendly tires, but they weren't able to oblige. Any recommendations for a suitable wheelset/tire/cassette/hub combo and where a good place to get them from is? Will 29ers work?

DT Swiss Hybrid series are very nice, H1900 for the entry level, H1700 middle, or HX1501 for higher end, ranging from 300 to 800 eur from german sites like bike24 or bike-discount, they both have cheap worldwide shipping. These wheels all feature hubs with oversized bearings, hardened steel freehub bodies ( --> no spline-gouging under extreme torque), oversized spoke interfaces, reinforced spokes and much stronger rims. They are available in both 27.5 and 29, each with different rim widths. AM1000 frame compatibility with 29er will have to be checked tho.


Cruncher123 said:
Has the ill-fitting bearing issue been sorted on newer bikes? (ie, someone reported a suspension bearing couldn't be fully seated and left 1-2mm gap that might allow dirt/debris to enter?).

the bearing itself is seated properly, the bolt covering it too long resulting in the gap. Previous AM1000 did not even have this cover on the bearing-retaining bolt. I don't know if it is resolved.


Cruncher123 said:
Should I enquire about the smaller 40T chainring? I plan to be climbing some decent hills and don't really need higher top speed.

you would be better served by any aftermarket 130BCD chainring like the narrow-wides from RaceFace as Bafang ones a stupidly heavy. For climbing ability I would even go to a lower teeth count.


Cruncher123 said:
I'd like to do some night riding on trails and am considering the Fisher Fab light https://lunacycle.com/fisher-fab-house-led-e-bike-light/ Is this light something that could be powered from exising wiring, or would I have to splice new wires?

existing wiring will not offer the connector of this lamp. The motor does suplies a 6V light line controlled by the Display buttons / light sensor but it's current rating and voltage are too low for this lamp. You'll have to tap into the main power line running from the top of the downtube (where the battery connector is) to the motor (terminated by an Anderson connector). Not an hard job IMO.


Cruncher123 said:
Finally, does this bike have a GearSensor? And if not, do people recommend adding one?

the motor does have a Gear Sensor input. Needing it depends on if you can get in the habit to use the ebrakes as a clutch on gear shifts, otherwise you don't need it. Repeated shifts under power will lead to (very) premature chain failure. With the much lower torque BBS02, I snapped multiple times the same KMC X11-e (e stands for e-bike) chains that Frey use. The connector from the motor to the gear sensor will have to be checked, it's not a circular Higo as on other BBS systems.
 
kerim said:
I managed to shoot a little video with the AM-1000 last Sunday. My dog insisted to come with me so I am not going very fast but the dog ist actually quite fun to watch and really enjoys it. Do not expect anything fancy. It is just a relaxed ride in the park behind my house. I hope you like it despite my lack of any riding skills:

Cheers,

Kerim
Great video! Bet the dog was tired after that.
 
FREYebikes said:
Hi,

Here I want to answer 2 points as below:
"the bearing itself is seated properly, the bolt covering it too long resulting in the gap. Previous AM1000 did not even have this cover on the bearing-retaining bolt. I don't know if it is resolved."
We are improving the bolt covering to fit surface better now. I will upload some photo tomorrow.

About gear sensor, we will add it as a basic offer if most of customer need it or it can be choose depend on your demands. if add a gear sensor, it will protect the chain and cassette better and it require some riding skill when you use it during climbing, otherwise, sometimes, it can shifter properly or in right time because of the power cutting when shifting.

Ivanovitch_k said:
Cruncher123 said:
Placed an order for the base bike - about 1 month delivery estimate.

But I have a few questions:

Curious if I should ask/request any upgrades? Is it worth upgrading the rear shock or front fork? (I plan to ride some single track.but not do large jumps etc)

suspensions upgrades are always nice. However, I saw someone mention they upgraded to Sram EX-1 groupset (e-bike reinforced derailleur, chain, and 8-speed cassette) from Frey (to be confirmed).
IMO, this is the better upgrade this bike can have, the stock 11-speed XT is not rated at all for this much torque... If I recall, someone in this thread already experienced cassette failure.


Cruncher123 said:
I did request a couple of spare derailleur hangers. I also asked about a second wheelset so I could quickly convert to more road-friendly tires, but they weren't able to oblige. Any recommendations for a suitable wheelset/tire/cassette/hub combo and where a good place to get them from is? Will 29ers work?

DT Swiss Hybrid series are very nice, H1900 for the entry level, H1700 middle, or HX1501 for higher end, ranging from 300 to 800 eur from german sites like bike24 or bike-discount, they both have cheap worldwide shipping. These wheels all feature hubs with oversized bearings, hardened steel freehub bodies ( --> no spline-gouging under extreme torque), oversized spoke interfaces, reinforced spokes and much stronger rims. They are available in both 27.5 and 29, each with different rim widths. AM1000 frame compatibility with 29er will have to be checked tho.


Cruncher123 said:
Has the ill-fitting bearing issue been sorted on newer bikes? (ie, someone reported a suspension bearing couldn't be fully seated and left 1-2mm gap that might allow dirt/debris to enter?).

the bearing itself is seated properly, the bolt covering it too long resulting in the gap. Previous AM1000 did not even have this cover on the bearing-retaining bolt. I don't know if it is resolved.


Cruncher123 said:
Should I enquire about the smaller 40T chainring? I plan to be climbing some decent hills and don't really need higher top speed.

you would be better served by any aftermarket 130BCD chainring like the narrow-wides from RaceFace as Bafang ones a stupidly heavy. For climbing ability I would even go to a lower teeth count.


Cruncher123 said:
I'd like to do some night riding on trails and am considering the Fisher Fab light https://lunacycle.com/fisher-fab-house-led-e-bike-light/ Is this light something that could be powered from exising wiring, or would I have to splice new wires?

existing wiring will not offer the connector of this lamp. The motor does suplies a 6V light line controlled by the Display buttons / light sensor but it's current rating and voltage are too low for this lamp. You'll have to tap into the main power line running from the top of the downtube (where the battery connector is) to the motor (terminated by an Anderson connector). Not an hard job IMO.


Cruncher123 said:
Finally, does this bike have a GearSensor? And if not, do people recommend adding one?

the motor does have a Gear Sensor input. Needing it depends on if you can get in the habit to use the ebrakes as a clutch on gear shifts, otherwise you don't need it. Repeated shifts under power will lead to (very) premature chain failure. With the much lower torque BBS02, I snapped multiple times the same KMC X11-e (e stands for e-bike) chains that Frey use. The connector from the motor to the gear sensor will have to be checked, it's not a circular Higo as on other BBS systems.

Ivy, GearSensor would be nice as standard equipment. The Ultra puts out so much torque that the drivetrain can take a beating. We've already had reports of damaged cassettes and derailleurs. Bosch use gear shift detection on their much less powerful (~250w/40-75nm) motors
 
FREYebikes said:
We are improving the bolt covering to fit surface better now. I will upload some photo tomorrow.

good news ! This will protect the bearing better. I will see If I can file / cut down mine to make it fit properly.

Also, if you can, try to improve the surface finish & machining quality/tolerances of the standalone bearing covers (the pair to the bearings in the middle of the seat tube). If they can match the quality of the other bolts with integrated cover, that'd be great !

FREYebikes said:
About gear sensor, we will add it as a basic offer if most of customer need it or it can be choose depend on your demands.

I think this is a basic need on a such a powerful motor + non e-bike rated drivetrain.
If some riders don't like them, they can always unplug the sensor but leave it on the bike.



kerim said:
I managed to shoot a little video with the AM-1000 last Sunday. My dog insisted to come with me...

haha, nice workout for the dog ! Good editing too !

Do you intend to trim the handlebar ? Your arms seems way too open with the current length. Or maybe you like/are used to ride like that ?
 
Ivanovitch_k said:
could someone please measure the rear thru-axle bolt ?
axle.png

if anyone need this info, Hardcore & Ivy provided the measurements:
  • Thread length : 25mm
  • Thread pitch : M12 x 1.5mm
  • Total length : 180mm
a suitable replacement rear axle from the robert axle project is
P/N LIG614 (178mm length, M12 x1.5) which also has the benefit to be compatible with Hexlock security locks 8)
 
Ivanovitch_k said:
Do you intend to trim the handlebar ? Your arms seems way too open with the current length. Or maybe you like/are used to ride like that ?

I am used to riding like this but I was thinking about trimming it because there are some gaps where I struggle to squeeze through.
 
Hi TomL,
Wow, that's a pain! Nice looking bike, first ride and something breaks. Not good!

I have seen a derailleur damaged (pulled into the spokes and bent) before, not on a new bike but on a bike where someone had just fitted a wide-range cassette and a new chain. They had fitted the chain and adjusted the derailleur with the bike on a stand and it all ran well. Would have been fine if it was a hardtail, but they didn't allow for the full range of rear suspension movement, and the chain wasn't long enough. First big bump and the derailleur bent into the spokes.

You said the damage occurred when you were in the lowest gear on the rear derailleur (largest sprocket)? And climbing a steep hill, so most weight would be on the back of the bike. That's when the problem would be worst, if it was the same issue.
Also check the spokes to see if there are any marks or bends that would match the derailleur catching in them.
The photo of the bike "while the battery was charging" shows the chain on the biggest sprocket and the derailleur maxed out.. the lower run of chain not far off straight.. with very little extra movement available to allow for suspension travel, so I think this might be what happened to you.

So, when you get the new deraileur, put it into the biggest front chainring (if more than one) and the biggest sprocket on the cassette and carefully run the suspension through its full range of movement to check there is enough chain length. You might have to let air out of the rear shock to allow the full movement to be tested. You might need a longer chain if it does get too tight.

Hope you get it sorted quickly!

Ivy @ Frey: If you read this, it would be a good idea to make sure chain lengths are tested at all positions of the back suspension as well as the "unloaded" position before the bikes are shipped.
 
That makes a lot of sense Drum. Add to the mix that the sag was not set correctly (40% instead of 25-30%) and it looks even more likely.

Have a look at this image I posted earlier. You can see sopke damage right where the derailleur would have hit just below the the middle left of the photo.

b288RZJ.jpg
 
kerim said:
I managed to shoot a little video with the AM-1000 last Sunday. My dog insisted to come with me so I am not going very fast but the dog ist actually quite fun to watch and really enjoys it. Do not expect anything fancy. It is just a relaxed ride in the park behind my house. I hope you like it despite my lack of any riding skills:

https://youtu.be/y2h4RrkNjgU

Cheers,

Kerim
Fantastic video. Are you a pro video producer?
 
OK, I see.
We can match the gear sensor as a standard equipment if customer want to have it.

Cruncher123 said:
FREYebikes said:
Hi,

Here I want to answer 2 points as below:
"the bearing itself is seated properly, the bolt covering it too long resulting in the gap. Previous AM1000 did not even have this cover on the bearing-retaining bolt. I don't know if it is resolved."
We are improving the bolt covering to fit surface better now. I will upload some photo tomorrow.

About gear sensor, we will add it as a basic offer if most of customer need it or it can be choose depend on your demands. if add a gear sensor, it will protect the chain and cassette better and it require some riding skill when you use it during climbing, otherwise, sometimes, it can shifter properly or in right time because of the power cutting when shifting.

Ivanovitch_k said:
Cruncher123 said:
Placed an order for the base bike - about 1 month delivery estimate.

But I have a few questions:

Curious if I should ask/request any upgrades? Is it worth upgrading the rear shock or front fork? (I plan to ride some single track.but not do large jumps etc)

suspensions upgrades are always nice. However, I saw someone mention they upgraded to Sram EX-1 groupset (e-bike reinforced derailleur, chain, and 8-speed cassette) from Frey (to be confirmed).
IMO, this is the better upgrade this bike can have, the stock 11-speed XT is not rated at all for this much torque... If I recall, someone in this thread already experienced cassette failure.


Cruncher123 said:
I did request a couple of spare derailleur hangers. I also asked about a second wheelset so I could quickly convert to more road-friendly tires, but they weren't able to oblige. Any recommendations for a suitable wheelset/tire/cassette/hub combo and where a good place to get them from is? Will 29ers work?

DT Swiss Hybrid series are very nice, H1900 for the entry level, H1700 middle, or HX1501 for higher end, ranging from 300 to 800 eur from german sites like bike24 or bike-discount, they both have cheap worldwide shipping. These wheels all feature hubs with oversized bearings, hardened steel freehub bodies ( --> no spline-gouging under extreme torque), oversized spoke interfaces, reinforced spokes and much stronger rims. They are available in both 27.5 and 29, each with different rim widths. AM1000 frame compatibility with 29er will have to be checked tho.


Cruncher123 said:
Has the ill-fitting bearing issue been sorted on newer bikes? (ie, someone reported a suspension bearing couldn't be fully seated and left 1-2mm gap that might allow dirt/debris to enter?).

the bearing itself is seated properly, the bolt covering it too long resulting in the gap. Previous AM1000 did not even have this cover on the bearing-retaining bolt. I don't know if it is resolved.


Cruncher123 said:
Should I enquire about the smaller 40T chainring? I plan to be climbing some decent hills and don't really need higher top speed.

you would be better served by any aftermarket 130BCD chainring like the narrow-wides from RaceFace as Bafang ones a stupidly heavy. For climbing ability I would even go to a lower teeth count.


Cruncher123 said:
I'd like to do some night riding on trails and am considering the Fisher Fab light https://lunacycle.com/fisher-fab-house-led-e-bike-light/ Is this light something that could be powered from exising wiring, or would I have to splice new wires?

existing wiring will not offer the connector of this lamp. The motor does suplies a 6V light line controlled by the Display buttons / light sensor but it's current rating and voltage are too low for this lamp. You'll have to tap into the main power line running from the top of the downtube (where the battery connector is) to the motor (terminated by an Anderson connector). Not an hard job IMO.


Cruncher123 said:
Finally, does this bike have a GearSensor? And if not, do people recommend adding one?

the motor does have a Gear Sensor input. Needing it depends on if you can get in the habit to use the ebrakes as a clutch on gear shifts, otherwise you don't need it. Repeated shifts under power will lead to (very) premature chain failure. With the much lower torque BBS02, I snapped multiple times the same KMC X11-e (e stands for e-bike) chains that Frey use. The connector from the motor to the gear sensor will have to be checked, it's not a circular Higo as on other BBS systems.

Ivy, GearSensor would be nice as standard equipment. The Ultra puts out so much torque that the drivetrain can take a beating. We've already had reports of damaged cassettes and derailleurs. Bosch use gear shift detection on their much less powerful (~250w/40-75nm) motors
 
Hi,

The bolt cover fit on surface better now.
QQ图片20180524140143.png

Also we are improving the standalone bearing cover surface finish now. we will make the one in black finish to make it looks better.

Ivanovitch_k said:
FREYebikes said:
We are improving the bolt covering to fit surface better now. I will upload some photo tomorrow.

good news ! This will protect the bearing better. I will see If I can file / cut down mine to make it fit properly.

Also, if you can, try to improve the surface finish & machining quality/tolerances of the standalone bearing covers (the pair to the bearings in the middle of the seat tube). If they can match the quality of the other bolts with integrated cover, that'd be great !

FREYebikes said:
About gear sensor, we will add it as a basic offer if most of customer need it or it can be choose depend on your demands.

I think this is a basic need on a such a powerful motor + non e-bike rated drivetrain.
If some riders don't like them, they can always unplug the sensor but leave it on the bike.



kerim said:
I managed to shoot a little video with the AM-1000 last Sunday. My dog insisted to come with me...

haha, nice workout for the dog ! Good editing too !

Do you intend to trim the handlebar ? Your arms seems way too open with the current length. Or maybe you like/are used to ride like that ?
 
Hi Tom,

Your info is useful to us.
We will check and test more about the chain length.


Drum said:
Hi TomL,
Wow, that's a pain! Nice looking bike, first ride and something breaks. Not good!

I have seen a derailleur damaged (pulled into the spokes and bent) before, not on a new bike but on a bike where someone had just fitted a wide-range cassette and a new chain. They had fitted the chain and adjusted the derailleur with the bike on a stand and it all ran well. Would have been fine if it was a hardtail, but they didn't allow for the full range of rear suspension movement, and the chain wasn't long enough. First big bump and the derailleur bent into the spokes.

You said the damage occurred when you were in the lowest gear on the rear derailleur (largest sprocket)? And climbing a steep hill, so most weight would be on the back of the bike. That's when the problem would be worst, if it was the same issue.
Also check the spokes to see if there are any marks or bends that would match the derailleur catching in them.
The photo of the bike "while the battery was charging" shows the chain on the biggest sprocket and the derailleur maxed out.. the lower run of chain not far off straight.. with very little extra movement available to allow for suspension travel, so I think this might be what happened to you.

So, when you get the new deraileur, put it into the biggest front chainring (if more than one) and the biggest sprocket on the cassette and carefully run the suspension through its full range of movement to check there is enough chain length. You might have to let air out of the rear shock to allow the full movement to be tested. You might need a longer chain if it does get too tight.

Hope you get it sorted quickly!

Ivy @ Frey: If you read this, it would be a good idea to make sure chain lengths are tested at all positions of the back suspension as well as the "unloaded" position before the bikes are shipped.
 
Thank you for all customers and friends here!
Thank you for all your kind understanding and support and tolerate our non perfect now.
We are improving more in details and accumulate more experience on the product to make it better and better.
It gives us a feeling that we are not alone to make the product better. We are more like working together to make the product better and better.
 
Ivanovitch_k said:
Ivanovitch_k said:
could someone please measure the rear thru-axle bolt ?
axle.png

if anyone need this info, Hardcore & Ivy provided the measurements:
  • Thread length : 25mm
  • Thread pitch : M12 x 1.5mm
  • Total length : 180mm
a suitable replacement rear axle from the robert axle project is
P/N LIG614 (178mm length, M12 x1.5) which also has the benefit to be compatible with Hexlock security locks 8)

Yeah, sorry, just got around to measuring this morning, and I got the same numbers
180mm total
25mm thread
And just FYI, 7mm of the thread extends beyond the bolt and sticks out, if that matters at all.
 
In case anyone wants to integrate a light into the existing wiring, here is an inexpensive way that I did it:

This is the light, I bought it from Walmart for $12.74, you may need to hunt around to get the same price:


deroace2.jpg

deroace1.PNG


This is the USB port from Amazon:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QVTVB84
$4.83

usb.jpg


This is the USB port protector from Amazon (maybe someone else can find an inexpensive one with a tethered leash waterproof cap):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01IY1Y6UG
$5.88

usb_protector.PNG


The wires on the Frey for the light covered in heat shrink tube:


covered_wires.jpg



The uncovered wires:


uncovered_wires.jpg


The USB cable with red, black, green, and white wires:


usb_before.jpg


Then the USB cable with just the red and black that you need for power:


usb_after.jpg


I'll update soon with some photos of the result (the sun set before I could finish).

Regards,
Sean
Orinda, CA
 
As for Light You could order this one from Aliexpress or Amazon.

https://www.aliexpress.com/item/4-2V-USB-Rechargeable-CREE-XM-L2-LED-3000LM-Bicycle-light-Free-Shipping/32630003327.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.27424c4dayg7Eq.

Just plug the USB connector to the Integrated cable and it work well. It can be control by the Controller Display to on off the light.

Me and my Buddy bought this light and use in on our Ultra bike. "Very Bright"
 
That light needs 2.5A for it’s specified brightness. The cable can only provide 0.5A if it’s the same as the BBSHD. I’m not saying it won’t work, just that it could be brighter. You might be better off with a DCDC converter (48V to 5V) wired to the 48V battery.

I purchased the Roxim X4 from Grin last night. About 10 times the price delivered (AUD) compared to what dalysea paid :shock: but it won’t blind oncoming traffic (StVZO) and I will be splicing it in to the the 48V battery supply as it can take up to 85V. I’ll post some photos when it arrives and I fit it. I’ll also show how I powered my 3V rear red light from the 48V battery.
 
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