Allex
100 MW
Hm I can only see your cap, where is the inductor?
My Cromotor E-Bike Build -> more like a moped
- Thread starter madin88
- Start date
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
inductor 22uh, 30A is in the bottom pic, black, square with gold copper winding, on the positive lead that goes to the phase wire
sorry for bad pictures, it was all done in a rush
sorry for bad pictures, it was all done in a rush
ridethelightning said:
is the choke that little black square with red dot on it (on the last pic on the left side over the paper sheets)?
on bottom of the page there is a pic of the adaptto choke / cap: http://www.adaptto.ru/products.shtml maybe this helps you
check if everything is wired up correct. it is described very good in the manual. doing in a rush is not good and it looks a bit messy to me..
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
yes messy. but i took all afternoon to carefully follow instructions and wire it up good. i also had the pic of adaptto choke on printout infront of me.
but i meant i rushed the photos, not the job
yes that is the inductor you see.
i originally wired the cap(36v) at the yellow xt connector but it blew up so i removed the shrink and cap(fragments of yellow shrink visible)
and just clipped in a larger 400v one as seen there.this got hot at the terminals as i said earlier.
i do note how large and beefy the inductors in the adaptto choke pic are compared to mine, but it is the correct uH and A rating.
but i meant i rushed the photos, not the job
yes that is the inductor you see.
i originally wired the cap(36v) at the yellow xt connector but it blew up so i removed the shrink and cap(fragments of yellow shrink visible)
and just clipped in a larger 400v one as seen there.this got hot at the terminals as i said earlier.
i do note how large and beefy the inductors in the adaptto choke pic are compared to mine, but it is the correct uH and A rating.
Allex
100 MW
Yeah The Inductor is REALLY small I did not see it in the picture lol.
Here is 70A from Adaptto:
The 30A is a bit smaller
I did not see it in the picture lol.Here is 70A from Adaptto:
The 30A is a bit smaller
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
Hmmm. thats more like it! what a beast!
iv just ordered that from Andrey.not the small one as i wanted to be sure it would run cool.
indeed not. unless the uk ebay seller gave me the wrong one, even on the receipt it says 30A,22uH
as stated in manual, and seen in diagram(please someone tell me if wrong!) the 3 phase wires are connected to motor while charging. for this i made a 2way adaptor plug, so that i could plug the choke in while the phase wire was also connected.
it did strike me as odd though, why does adaptto sell the choke without the 2way adaptor on the phase plug
, as if the choke just plugs into one phase wire plug without it being connected.
iv just ordered that from Andrey.not the small one as i wanted to be sure it would run cool.
madin88 said:
indeed not. unless the uk ebay seller gave me the wrong one, even on the receipt it says 30A,22uH
as stated in manual, and seen in diagram(please someone tell me if wrong!) the 3 phase wires are connected to motor while charging. for this i made a 2way adaptor plug, so that i could plug the choke in while the phase wire was also connected.
it did strike me as odd though, why does adaptto sell the choke without the 2way adaptor on the phase plug
, as if the choke just plugs into one phase wire plug without it being connected.
Allex
100 MW
Post picture of your setup with adaptor!
The stuff is in very early stage so they will probably sell it later och just leave to us, doityourselves
The stuff is in very early stage so they will probably sell it later och just leave to us, doityourselves
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
will do tonight!
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
here is the charge choke i wired.
the large cap rigged across the yellow xt90 connector, with the (-) terminal on the neg charge lead/ neg psu lead side, balck 6mm bullet connector goes to neg charge lead of controller, while the (+) cap teminal goes to the phase/inductor side.
blue bullet connectors plug into a controller phase wire plug and motor phase wire plug.
the large cap rigged across the yellow xt90 connector, with the (-) terminal on the neg charge lead/ neg psu lead side, balck 6mm bullet connector goes to neg charge lead of controller, while the (+) cap teminal goes to the phase/inductor side.
blue bullet connectors plug into a controller phase wire plug and motor phase wire plug.
Attachments
your wiring should be correct (i checked the manual).
something must be wrong with the inductor you got, because the data on the paper is like adaptto advices.
look, it cannot have the same ratings as the one adaptto sells because its 10 times smaller..
I would send the seller an email with this pics and ask him whats happened.
edit: hm maybe its about the declaration 0,1-10MHz or PWR?
adaptto works at 18kHz as far as i know..
something must be wrong with the inductor you got, because the data on the paper is like adaptto advices.
look, it cannot have the same ratings as the one adaptto sells because its 10 times smaller..
I would send the seller an email with this pics and ask him whats happened.
edit: hm maybe its about the declaration 0,1-10MHz or PWR?
adaptto works at 18kHz as far as i know..
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
yeah, but its not worth it. only 10bucks! ill post a forsale thread.....used....undersized adaptto inductor......
ill just wait till the one from Andrey arrives.
i wonder if in the manual they made a mistake and should have said milli henry?
yes. if the khz is wrong i believe that could mean its working out of phase with the controller swithching.......
ill post a forsale thread.....used....undersized adaptto inductor...... ill just wait till the one from Andrey arrives.
i wonder if in the manual they made a mistake and should have said milli henry?
yes. if the khz is wrong i believe that could mean its working out of phase with the controller swithching.......
andreym
100 W
Here is the small one
and the large one
and the large one
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
i think i need to gets me a multimetre like that!
GCinDC
100 MW
awesome bike! where'd you get the mud guards/fenders?
thank you GCinDC
the fenders are called rowdy 20" from manufacturer SKS. they are normally used on kids mtb :lol:
the rubber part on the end is also from SKS. on the rear i used two of the fenders (one i cut into half and mounted it inverted to have more coverage towards bottom). the bracket for the rearlight and turn signals also is from this fender kit.
the front fender is a bit too small. it should be longer towards bottom and front for optimal protection against water and mud.
the fenders are called rowdy 20" from manufacturer SKS. they are normally used on kids mtb :lol:
the rubber part on the end is also from SKS. on the rear i used two of the fenders (one i cut into half and mounted it inverted to have more coverage towards bottom). the bracket for the rearlight and turn signals also is from this fender kit.
the front fender is a bit too small. it should be longer towards bottom and front for optimal protection against water and mud.
cell drift after about 30-35 cycles. not all were full cycles. at a rough guess i would say about 25.000Wh.
still no cell drift. never balanced. no BMS.
max charged to 4,15V. normally to 4,1V.
max discharged to 3,35V (idle)
max 120A peak (2-4sec). somewhere between 20-60A continuos during commute.
controller currently shows 44 mOhms resistance (at room temperature) which means 44/22s * 9p = 18mOhm per cell.
still no cell drift. never balanced. no BMS.
max charged to 4,15V. normally to 4,1V.
max discharged to 3,35V (idle)
max 120A peak (2-4sec). somewhere between 20-60A continuos during commute.
controller currently shows 44 mOhms resistance (at room temperature) which means 44/22s * 9p = 18mOhm per cell.
Allex
100 MW
Nice, any plans on changing the battery yet?
hmm.. lots of space there in the cases not used
the A123 20Ah pouches will not or very hardly fit, so i will not go with them for future battery upgrades.
maybe i build a new pack of 2x 11s12p sony VTC5 2600mAh or Samsung 25R 2500mAh. I would buy them in spot welded bricks of 12p and would do the serial connection by my own. with this i can be sure to have no damaged cells due to to much heat from soldering.
i also thought about of taking off the lid from the cases and close them with a carbon plate. this will make them about 6cm narrower and pedaling would be more comfortable..
the A123 20Ah pouches will not or very hardly fit, so i will not go with them for future battery upgrades.
maybe i build a new pack of 2x 11s12p sony VTC5 2600mAh or Samsung 25R 2500mAh. I would buy them in spot welded bricks of 12p and would do the serial connection by my own. with this i can be sure to have no damaged cells due to to much heat from soldering.
i also thought about of taking off the lid from the cases and close them with a carbon plate. this will make them about 6cm narrower and pedaling would be more comfortable..
sardini said:
have to figure out how to make the plates removeable with waterproof sealing. maybe i'm able to install them to the hinges of the case.
22s12p 2500mAh cells would give me less voltage sag and about 2400Wh x 85% = 2000Wh usable juice
of course, only if i can make them sure fit into these cases.madin88 said:sardini said:
have to figure out how to make the plates removeable with waterproof sealing. maybe i'm able to install them to the hinges of the case.
22s12p 2500mAh cells would give me less voltage sag and about 2400Wh x 85% = 2000Wh usable juice
Just cut the top of the lid (keeping the locking mechanism ) and use the appropriate glue , to glue the plates. Do you have any battery store in mind that delivers in the european countries and the taxes are already included ? i hate to pay customs fee.
ridethelightning
1 MW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 2,010
some rivits with a rubber gasket/silicone between the lid and the plates might be the go...
sardini said:
if i keep the locking mechanism and only cut off the top lid, it will not be as narrow as if i complete take the lid off. i also think if i glue the plates they will not hold well..
I think of installing the plates to the hinges with machine milled alu parts is a good idea.
Some rubber gasket between case and plate will make it waterproof. have to look for carbon plates which really do not bend, because if they do, it will not be waterproof anymore.
i know a german store, but he does not yet offer the samsung 25R or VTC5 cells.
user ecross posted in his battery built thread some prices for this cells, but i do not know if he is serious...
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=14&t=54877#p873706
Similar threads
