torqueboards
1 MW
@mantas - what do you think the 1.22mm plywood can support as in weight wise (battery, esc)?
My e-longboard design
- Thread starter Mantas
- Start date
torqueboards
1 MW
You are using the arduino micro right? Does this one here work - http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mini-USB-Nano-V3-0-ATmega328-5V-16M-Micro-controller-board-Arduino-compatible-/310674366051
Any updates on the new source code for the wii nunchuk controller?
Any updates on the new source code for the wii nunchuk controller?
I just watched the video on the Wii Nunchuck again. I'm really glad someone has already done all the work. But pretty surprised they didn't seem to know how a throttle is supposed to work.
Fortunately the code is right there, so shouldn't be too hard to fix.
The Wii Nunchuck coupled with the Arduino open up all kinds of cool possibilities. I guess it's not too surprising someone went off on a strange tangent with them.
I'm thinking of adding a speedometer/odometer function to the Arduino. You could have it project number of miles left on the battery charge too ... Need to find a small, durable display. Or have it beep the number of miles left upon command ... Too bad the Nunchuck doesn't have a display. That would be the perfect place for it.
Richard
Fortunately the code is right there, so shouldn't be too hard to fix.
The Wii Nunchuck coupled with the Arduino open up all kinds of cool possibilities. I guess it's not too surprising someone went off on a strange tangent with them.
I'm thinking of adding a speedometer/odometer function to the Arduino. You could have it project number of miles left on the battery charge too ... Need to find a small, durable display. Or have it beep the number of miles left upon command ... Too bad the Nunchuck doesn't have a display. That would be the perfect place for it.
Richard
I've looked over this thread a couple times now ... there's much good stuff in here.torqueboards said:
I think his thin plywood is the same stuff you can find at hobby shops for covering airplane wings with. It's really strong stuff. It goes with the natural wood deck nicely too. And bending it into place makes for some nice graceful curves. If you're worried about strength you could laminate it with something on the inside. You could also hang your batteries from the bottom of the deck with velcro ...
...
Sounds like some metal inserts set into the deck might help hold those screws more effectively though. I think that's what beetbocks did on his board. Or just use countersunk screws through the top with nuts on the bottom.
Mantas said:Here is a source code for new controller algorithm.
Features:
Dynamic acceleration - faster in the beginning, slower in the end.
Speed hold function - If "Z" button is pressed speed value are saved and board keeps the speed without joystick. And using joystick you can increase or decrease hold speed (like Metro - board)
Fast acceleration option - if "C" button is pressed acceleration is fast all the time.
After a test ride with new algorithm I still see some things that needs to be improved... so keep tracking my posts if you are interested.
SOURCE :
#include "Wire.h"
#include "Wii.h" // Library for Wii Nunchuck
#include <Servo.h> // Library for controlin Servo or ESC
WiiChuck chuck = WiiChuck();
Servo myservo;
int speed_val; // Speed value
int speed_val_cur = 60; // Current speed value
int y = 0; // Jaystick value
int time = 200; // Delay timer
int speed_val_hold; // speed value which will be holded while Z button is pressed
void setup() {
Serial.begin(115200);
chuck.begin();
chuck.update();
myservo.attach(9); // ESC attached to 9 pin of Arduino
}
void loop() {
// If you hold down Z button of Nunchuck you accelerate faster
if ((chuck.buttonZ)||(chuck.buttonC)) {
if (chuck.buttonZ) {
Serial.print(" Z ");
//time = 100;
speed_val_hold = speed_val_cur; // Sets speed value to hold
}
// If you hold down C button of Nunchuck you accelerate slower
if (chuck.buttonC) {
Serial.print(" C ");
time = 100;
}
} else {
time = map (speed_val_cur,60,80,100,250);
speed_val_hold = 60;
}
delay(time);
chuck.update();
y = chuck.readJoyY();
// Maps the joystick value to the speed value (max speed 130) max posible 179
Serial.println();
speed_val = map(y, 0, 119, 62, 130);
// This is what hapens in case we loose a Blue tooth conecction
if (y > 122) {
speed_val = 60; // 60 means - no speed , motor stoped
speed_val_cur = 60; // 60 means - no speed , motor stoped
speed_val_hold = 60;
}
// This is whats hapens then we again have BT signal, it just restarts everything
if (y == 124) setup();
if (y <= 0) {
speed_val_cur = 60;
speed_val = 60;
}
if (speed_val_cur < speed_val) {
speed_val_cur = speed_val_cur + 1;
}
else speed_val_cur = speed_val;
if ((speed_val_hold > 60) && (y > 0) ) speed_val_hold++; // If hold button is pressed and joistic moved up - increase speed
if ((speed_val_hold > 60) && (y < 0) ) speed_val_hold--; // If hold button is pressed and joistic moved down - decrease speed
if (speed_val_hold > 60) speed_val_cur = speed_val_hold;
myservo.write(speed_val_cur); // Here we control ESC
//----- Printing to screen to see results ---------
Serial.print("Joy = ");
Serial.print;
Serial.print(" ");
Serial.print("Speed = ");
Serial.print(speed_val_cur);
}
Hello Mantas ~ Please help me, my profile is
Logic3 Wii Nunchuck + Arduino UNO + Hobbyking SS Heli Series 70-80A ESC w / UBEC * 2 + Turnigy L3040A-480G Brushless Motor * 2, I can directly use the code it? ?, sorry,
Wii.h Library can get it from somewhere??
My program has been compiled problem!
I will write the program thanks to help!Thx a lot ^^"
Recently I will update my electric skateboard construction photos.
torqueboards
1 MW
Hi Mantas,
I like your wooden design for the battery case. Wonder, if it can actually bend decently? I have a 2 motor, 2x 8000mah battery packs that are pretty thick. I went and got Midwest Thin Birch Plywood 1/32" x 12" x 24" but it ended up cracking on me. I'm looking to get a thicker and heavier duty size.
Is the 1/8th (3.175mm) inch and/or 1/16 inch (1.58mm) better?
I like your wooden design for the battery case. Wonder, if it can actually bend decently? I have a 2 motor, 2x 8000mah battery packs that are pretty thick. I went and got Midwest Thin Birch Plywood 1/32" x 12" x 24" but it ended up cracking on me. I'm looking to get a thicker and heavier duty size.
Is the 1/8th (3.175mm) inch and/or 1/16 inch (1.58mm) better?
torqueboards said:
Thin aircraft plywood might be better. Has more and thinner plys and no voids. There is also a bendable plywood available. Not cheap, but it has the grain of all the plys going in the same direction. Or you could laminate your own shell. That would be really cool, but a bit of work. Check Youtube for videos on laminating.
http://www.ehow.com/how_7635251_soak-bend-plywood.html
One way to get a thinner battery is to buy smaller ones and wire them together. If you want an 8000mah 6S you can buy three 8000mah 2S batteries and wire them in series. One such 6S battery is: 165x69x52mm. And the 2S is: 166x69x15mm. The 6S is 2-inches thick, while the 2S is a little more than a half inch thick. Nice thing about buying batteries in 2S increments is you can easily configure a 4S or an 8S pack, etc.
You can also take the larger battery apart and spread out the cells to make a thinner battery. I think there are photos of someone doing that on this site somewhere.
torqueboards
1 MW
RF - I got the http://www.utrechtart.com/Midwest-Thin-Aircraft-Grade-Birch-Plywood-12-x-48-in-Sheets---4---3mm-Thick-MP58276-i1016200.utrecht the 1/32in.
Would the 1/16 inch be a better plywood? As the 1/32 inch was nice and flexible but bent under pressure on a fold and cracked at the screwed in areas.
1/16in is 1.58mm and Mantas mentioned he had 1.22mm aircraft plywood. Only issue being is that his doesn't have an extreme bend like mine. I'm using 2x 8000mah 5s batteries which stand 69mm high.
Would the 1/16 inch be a better plywood? As the 1/32 inch was nice and flexible but bent under pressure on a fold and cracked at the screwed in areas.
1/16in is 1.58mm and Mantas mentioned he had 1.22mm aircraft plywood. Only issue being is that his doesn't have an extreme bend like mine. I'm using 2x 8000mah 5s batteries which stand 69mm high.
torqueboards said:
Tradeoffs between weight and strength. And keeping the batteries pristine, or taking them apart and spreading them out. I think that plywood needs a coat or two of clear lacquer to protect it. Perhaps inside and out. That should add some strength.
The thicker plywood sounds better to me. If you can get the shape you want.
If you use waterproof (aircraft/marine/whatever) plywood you can soak it in water before you bend it. Perhaps soaking just the areas you want to bend. (Check with your supplier about soaking their plywood. Real aviation-grade plywood is supposed to withstand boiling for three hours.) And let it dry thoroughly to take on it's new shape. Going for Manta's shape, you could just clamp the edges with a bunch of spring clamps and wait for the plywood to dry thoroughly. Perhaps adding a coat of lacquer (or whatever) before removing it, to re-inforce the new shape. A coat that penetrates well would be good. If a touch of space can be made between battery cells you could also put one or more screws (with spacers) down the middle to add a LOT more strength.
A wood stringer down the middle, if space permits, would really increase strength and battery protection. Or even a stringer between each cell. And screw the plywood to the stringers. (Glue 1/2-inch wide stringers to the deck bottom. Drill mounting holes for the plywood skin through the stringers all the way through the top. Clamp the plywood skin on tightly to the bottom and drill back through those holes from the top to get everything to line up.)
Might want to cover the board deck with plastic before you start putting wet stuff all over it. And use a mockup battery instead of the real thing during bending. Perhaps slightly larger than the real one. Allowing for a little padding around the batteries might be good -- protect them from vibration and shock.
Threaded inserts in the plywood would keep screws or nuts from sticking out. Using countersunk screws through the top of the deck would keep both sides flush and clean.
Mantas has photos earlier in this thread of disassembling the battery to make it lie flatter ...
http://endless-sphere.com/forums/download/file.php?id=110430
...
Or just duct-tape the whole thing together ...
torqueboards
1 MW
I found out that for my battery case, I found some industrial adhesive velcro which is holding all my electronic parts onto the board and found it works great. It actually holds my battery in place pretty well. I am however, going to add either cardboard and/or 1/64 Birchwood Aircraft Model Plywood (because of it's flexibility) to the bottom, it can actually flex around the parts. I am also going to just velcro the board/cardboard to the bottom of my board instead of drilling holes since the velcro holds so well and the parts will not be leaning on the board anyways since they are also attached with velcro.
torqueboards
1 MW
rf said:
Here's my current board. I'm using a 1/8 Birchwood Aircraft Model Plywood which isn't that giving on flex so it will crack and has. So I ducktaped the entire thing and it works a lot better. Stuck some velcro on the sides and on the board and sticks like glue.
I will be getting 1/64 Birchwood Aircraft Model Plywood instead as it has extreme flex which is what I need but also extremly durable and strong. The concave in the middle wouldn't be as buldgy as well and I will have the wood looking board which is what I"m going for like Mantas board without the screws that actually look nice. I just keep cracking my board though. I'm going to laquer the board as well to add to make it stronger as well.
carlboyscout
1 µW
- Joined
- Jul 21, 2013
- Messages
- 1
Hey mantas, I had a question about the code you used to program your arduino. I have never programmed on an arduino before, and I was wondering if you could post the libraries and the actually code, you have used. I am using an arduino micro as well. Thanks for all your help!
Carl Demolder
Carl Demolder
Torben Scharling
1 µW
- Joined
- Aug 2, 2013
- Messages
- 1
How much can I get you to make me one for?
PracticalProjects
10 W
Great build! love those artistic photos aswel
whilechukwuzout
1 W
- Joined
- Jul 15, 2013
- Messages
- 59
The source code makes no sense to me. It keeps throwing up all sorts of errors. You call up the library called wii.h, but all of your variables suggest you are using the WiiChuck.h library. Which is it? And why is it so damn hard to get these libraries to import to Arduino?
Edit: sorry if the above came off as hostile lol. I just re-read it and I kinda sound like a jerk. I was just frustrated and not thinking much as I was typing.
Edit: sorry if the above came off as hostile lol. I just re-read it and I kinda sound like a jerk. I was just frustrated and not thinking much as I was typing.
2wayspeaker
10 mW
- Joined
- May 24, 2015
- Messages
- 31
Hello Mantas,
Great work on this, I love it. I did all my engineering before I found this thread and came to the exact conclusion on all components, I found this page to get the arduino code.
The reason I dredge this topic up from the grave:
Besides what is already mentioned about tensioning the belt more, you can also look into calculating the belt design.
http://www.optibelt-usa.com/uploads/tx_optibeltusaproducts/TECH_MANUAL_TIMING_BELTS.pdf (you don't need to use this brand, but the math will be the same.)
So for your drive: 2800W at 10S => 1700W at 6S
Design power = Pb = P.c2 = 1,7kW x 1,6 = 2,8kW
Nominal power rating for belt = Pu = Prated x Belt width correction x Belt length correction x Theeth in mesh factor.
Chosen belt profile: Profile 5MHP. Chosen gears: 16T -> 30T
Prated for a 16T cog at 5000rpm is 1,93kW. Belt width 15mm has factor 1,87. Belt length factor is 0,8 and Theeth factor is 1.
Pu = 1,93 x 1,87 x 0,8 x 1 = 2,89 kW
Necessary condition Pu > Pb is satisfied. So this belt will not slip or fail at any point.
The guide also helps with tensioning the belt.
x = 0.004 x a in which a is the center distance.
This x is the least amount of offset needed to tension the belt.
so for a 16T -> 30T belt length 265mm we find a=74.16mm and x=0.30
This means that the least amount off tension necessary to use this belt is found by placing the centers at 74.46mm. Basically you just put the centers at 75mm and they are tensioned well, but it will slip below 74.46mm.
I hope this clears up some things about belt design. Get your local supplier to give you a design guide/catalogue.
Great work on this, I love it. I did all my engineering before I found this thread and came to the exact conclusion on all components, I found this page to get the arduino code
.The reason I dredge this topic up from the grave:
Mantas said:
Besides what is already mentioned about tensioning the belt more, you can also look into calculating the belt design.
http://www.optibelt-usa.com/uploads/tx_optibeltusaproducts/TECH_MANUAL_TIMING_BELTS.pdf (you don't need to use this brand, but the math will be the same.)
So for your drive: 2800W at 10S => 1700W at 6S
Design power = Pb = P.c2 = 1,7kW x 1,6 = 2,8kW
Nominal power rating for belt = Pu = Prated x Belt width correction x Belt length correction x Theeth in mesh factor.
Chosen belt profile: Profile 5MHP. Chosen gears: 16T -> 30T
Prated for a 16T cog at 5000rpm is 1,93kW. Belt width 15mm has factor 1,87. Belt length factor is 0,8 and Theeth factor is 1.
Pu = 1,93 x 1,87 x 0,8 x 1 = 2,89 kW
Necessary condition Pu > Pb is satisfied. So this belt will not slip or fail at any point.
The guide also helps with tensioning the belt.
x = 0.004 x a in which a is the center distance.
This x is the least amount of offset needed to tension the belt.
so for a 16T -> 30T belt length 265mm we find a=74.16mm and x=0.30
This means that the least amount off tension necessary to use this belt is found by placing the centers at 74.46mm. Basically you just put the centers at 75mm and they are tensioned well, but it will slip below 74.46mm.
I hope this clears up some things about belt design. Get your local supplier to give you a design guide/catalogue.
