My kick scooter project

[ElectricGod]

More pics...

This is the back end mostly reassembled. I'm still waiting for some 10-32 hex head screws and the wheel sprocket. The screws secure the brackets to the back wheel assembly All the holes through the back assembly frame are tapped for 10-32 and then I'll also lock the screw ends down with a 10-32 nut inside the frame. I little blue locktite on all the threads will take care of any other screws working loose. I rerouted the wiring a little so it stays up and out of the way of the tire.

The bracket that came on the caliper was so close to what I needed that I went ahead and used it as is. I needed a couple of spacers to hold the caliper in the right position so I used an axle spacer and cut it to the length I needed for the two bolts that mount to the back frame. One of the bolts goes in the space where the old bracket bolts went and the other fits in the front most section of the left drop out. It should work pretty well and not get in the way of properly tensioning the chain.

The motor bracket has been upgraded a little. The new bolts are 8mm stainless bolts and a bit longer than the older/smaller ones. With the longer bolts I am able to add washers to both ends of the bolts so that the paint doesn't get scuffed up when the bolts/nuts get tightened. In the second picture you can see the extra aluminum plate I added to strengthen this side of the motor bracket. I bent the battery box mounting arm on the sprocket side to clear the motor sprocket. You can see that the sprocket clears quite nicely. Unfortunately, to change out the motor sprocket requires pulling out the motor bolts so the motor can be slid over. It's a bit of a pain to unbolt the motor, but realistically how often do I change out motor sprockets?

The back end assembly sitting upright.

 

[Ianhill]

The battery bay area looks alot more better than the mk1 version with the wood you've done a good job on it I can see that you mean business this time your mate done you a favour totaling it as its come back much stronger.

 

[ElectricGod]

The battery bay area looks alot more better than the mk1 version with the wood you've done a good job on it I can see that you mean business this time your mate done you a favour totaling it as its come back much stronger.

Thanks!

The 10-32 screws and washers arrived today so I was able to finish mounting the back deck brackets. The new rear brake caliper is all primed and ready to go. I'm just waiting for the motor and wheel sprockets and then I'm riding again. They will be here in a couple of days.

And some more pictures...
In the second and fourth pictures you can see the spacers that position the caliper over the new rotor.

 

[ElectricGod]

The new sprockets arrived today. The back wheel is mounted, but I have some fine tuning to get the brake caliper just right and the chain line needs some work to get it straight, but otherwise I'm pretty much good to go.

 

[Ianhill]

Plz sir can we have a vid.

 

[ElectricGod]

Plz sir can we have a vid.

What do you want? A riding video or a walk around the scooter video? I posted this riding video like a year+ ago. I was riding at around 1500 watts back then and topped out at about 30mph.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wjlvqCRE73c

 

[Ianhill]

When its done a small walk around showing the magic then a quick blast around the block nothing to long or edited just see and hear the big block stretch its legs.

 

[ElectricGod]

When its done a small walk around showing the magic then a quick blast around the block nothing to long or edited just see and hear the big block stretch its legs.

I can do that!

 

[ElectricGod]

That vid you wanted will be up tonight. Just look me up on you tube.
rkenders

 

[ElectricGod]

Here's the video. My cell phone would not stay focused very well. I'm guessing the LED in the phone wasn't enough to get the camera focusing well. Anyway, you get the idea.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RdC119Nn_WU&feature=youtu.be

 

[Ianhill]

Tell truth I'm not sure if u got enough lights on it
Im away at moment doing blackpool illuminations bike ride today with 5m of rope led light on my bike controlled with Infared by my phone im sure I'll stand out but there be few headers with lights like me I'm getting over 3 hours of flashy goodness and my running lights, it all runs from a compact 1s3p prismatic with 12.3ah its fairly low IR to only 60milliohms so could run another 5metres no sweat.
https://youtu.be/ZivXEaC3SSM

 

[ElectricGod]

Tell truth I'm not sure if u got enough lights on it
Im away at moment doing blackpool illuminations bike ride today with 5m of rope led light on my bike controlled with Infared by my phone im sure I'll stand out but there be few headers with lights like me I'm getting over 3 hours of flashy goodness and my running lights, it all runs from a compact 1s3p prismatic with 12.3ah its fairly low IR to only 60milliohms so could run another 5metres no sweat.
https://youtu.be/ZivXEaC3SSM

That light tape is definitely visible. I might have to get some of that stuff!

 

[ElectricGod]

I have purchased 2 3220 Astro Flight inrunners. I found them for uber cheap in near new condition. Buying them new from Astro Flight is a $695 price tag. OUCH!!! I picked these up for $400 each...still pretty pricey, but 4600w motors at that price is ridiculously cheap. I bought my big block for $375 so for another $25 I get 1500+ watts extra. I couldn't turn it down. They are already vented and include a blower on the back of the shaft. I'm sure I'll find some good use for them! Like...one of them will probably go on my blue scooter...like it's not fast or powerful enough already. I'm thinking the other one will go on the new smaller scooter. That should be stunningly powerful! and to think I was probably going to use a 1500 watt BOMA on it!

 

[Ianhill]

What's the kv on them are they low as the big block ? If so two of these on one drivetrain would kick ass on the little scooter u got with lipo it will be as light as a Ethiopian and fast as flash Gordon.
Your blue one is done don't strip it again get some use out of it..

 

[ElectricGod]

What's the kv on them are they low as the big block ? If so two of these on one drivetrain would kick ass on the little scooter u got with lipo it will be as light as a Ethiopian and fast as flash Gordon.
Your blue one is done don't strip it again get some use out of it..

They are the 6 turn version or 113 Kv with 1/2" shafts. Two of these beasts on the little scooter would be crazy insane. Each one can peak at 7000 watts or run continuous at 4600 watts for the unvented version. I have the vented version with attached blower so...5500 watts continuous? Geez! That's loads of power for such a small ride! Astroflight rates the unvented motors as equivalent to a 100cc gas engine or 5.6hp. The little scooter will probably top out at 70 pounds at most. With one of these motors it will already be a rocket. I'll be filling its battery bay with laptop cells. I have tons of them now. It will be an experiment to see if I can get the current I need out of used laptop cells. If not, well I'll see about buying some 20C LIPOs or better yet EV rated 18650s. I have a Kelly KLS7230S motor controller. It's good for 10,000 watts or 84 volts and 120 amps continuous. That ought to do whatever I need. I will need to add halls to the motors.

 

[Ianhill]

Thats a meaty shaft diameter for a small motor, Its spins fairly fast then the max specs of 80volts and 75amps it will draw 6KW continuous and not sweat and be spinning up around 10krpm, The small scooter u have looks to have a large enough back wheel so you could fit a larger sprocket to the rear and small to front to get the gearing down a bit so its not got a back wheel that want to do 100mph it would sound a beast as it would rev so easy it would be a wheelie machine, From my testing with the used 18650 cells it would need to match around the 22s20p mark or 440 cells for a 75amp continuous discharge and allowing a bit of wiggle room for peaks and regen that a MASSIVE pack.

 

[ElectricGod]

Thats a meaty shaft diameter for a small motor, Its spins fairly fast then the max specs of 80volts and 75amps it will draw 6KW continuous and not sweat and be spinning up around 10krpm, The small scooter u have looks to have a large enough back wheel so you could fit a larger sprocket to the rear and small to front to get the gearing down a bit so its not got a back wheel that want to do 100mph it would sound a beast as it would rev so easy it would be a wheelie machine, From my testing with the used 18650 cells it would need to match around the 22s20p mark or 440 cells for a 75amp continuous discharge and allowing a bit of wiggle room for peaks and regen that a MASSIVE pack.

I haven't done the math yet, but 6:1 should do it to get wheel speed down to about 50mph. I may just run it at 48 volts which translates to about 5000 RPM at the motor. I have an RC controller good for 200 amps and 48 volts. That ought to do the job.

 

[Ianhill]

Any news on the Astros can't wait to see one of them in action giving it the beans.

 

[ElectricGod]

Any news on the Astros can't wait to see one of them in action giving it the beans.

I've spun them up on an R/C controller, but I need to add halls to them to make them EV worthy.

 

[ElectricGod]

I recently got a nice haul of laptop batteries. Little did I know that they are almost all nearly new. This is those battery packs.

This is about 60% of the cells I harvested from those packs.

And here's my total supply of good cells waiting to be used. MMMmmmm...look at all that yummy lithium goodness!!! Thats about 200 cells. I need MORE!!!

 

[ElectricGod]

I found this on craigslist for a stupid low price so of course I had to buy it. Just what I need...another EV project! It's in near perfect condition and has maybe 100 miles on it and is already all electric.

Here's the new thread...
https://endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=83302

 

[Ianhill]

14 pages in I would say stick a fork in her the kickscooter is done.

 

[ElectricGod]

14 pages in I would say stick a fork in her the kickscooter is done.

Yup...new thread started. I'll delete the above stuff from here.

BTW.. the kick scooter is going to get a couple more small updates to it, but yeah...it's pretty much golden.

 

[ElectricGod]

Minor adjustment on the scooter...

I have moved to a 50T back wheel sprocket and 16T driver sprocket to make the chain assembly as quiet as possible and because of the new back wheel. It is quiet, but the chain tension has been an ongoing problem. For whatever reason there's not enough room in the drop outs to pull the chain tight. I cant remove a link to stay in the dropouts so I have had to use a chain tensioner instead. initially I had it mounted to the back support arm on the drive side of the chain. You can see the holes I drilled through it and tapped to keep the tensioner in place. That worked, but that's always a bad idea. The wear and tear on the tensioner is way higher than on the return side of the chain since it has to deal with drive torque continuously. The original hard rubber idler wheel lasted 2 days before it self destructed. I then made a new wheel out of teak wood which is a rather hard wood and completely weather resistant. It lasted 3 or 4 days before it was worn out and had started to break apart. At that point, I knew I couldn't tension the chain on the drive side...things just weren't going to last very long there. It's a bad idea without seriously over engineering it under the best conditions. It's the reason why chain tensioning is always done on the return side of the chain. I hadn't considered adding a few more links to the chain so that I could put the tensioner on the return side until a day ago. Tonight I added 2 links to the chain which allowed me to move the tensioner to the return side. It's not a final setup or pretty yet and the tensioner is spring loaded to pull inwards. I added the pieces of wood to push the tensioner arm out and it works fairly well so far. I can definitely crank the throttle now. Later, once I see it's going to be reliable, I'll make a better pusher out of steel or aluminum. After I switched to the 50:16 sprocket setup, I was not able to reliably crank the throttle full open without the chain jumping off the driver sprocket even with the drive side tensioning. I tried the return side tensioning earlier tonight and it worked quite well cranking the throttle over and over. The proof will be a couple of weeks use and seeing it work consistently. The tensioner to chain clearance is pretty close, but as long as the chain is tight, there's no chain to anything else rubbing. With the drive side tensioning, I would randomly hear the chain rub on a bolt head or whatever, This is an all around better solution. When I make the final pusher, it will be spring loaded rather than wood so that tension variations can be absorbed in the spring to some extent.

 

[Ianhill]

Easiest way is make a slotted engine mount so the motor can be adjstued like a gokart, Then use the wheel chain tensioners as a auxiliary quick adjust when chain wears.
Its better now though on the underside than having the tensioner on the topside of the chain, fit the tensioner to the top and it will experience the torque of the motor so the chain will still be slack on the underside when drive hard.