Mystery: Bafang G311 loose and rusty magnets. Should I upgrade or try again?

saucerful

1 mW
Joined
May 26, 2022
Messages
13
I electrified a Bike Friday NWT (folding 20" wheel bike) with a Bafang G311 Fast Wind kit and a 52 V em3ev battery. I used what I thought were conservative settings (20 mph speed limit and 36 Nm torque limit). But after 4 months and 500 miles it failed: loose magnets and one was rusty (thanks @amberwolf for helping me diagnose!). See attachment, rust on the magnet at 12 o'clock. This is very surprising for two reasons:

1) Grin says they use an adhesive that should not fail, at least not at the temperatures that the Baserunner allows before thermal limiting (110-130 C)
2) No clue where the rust came from. No water visible when I opened the motor. I rode ~50 miles on some slushy and salty roads back in winter. Have fenders. Storage is under cover but outdoors.

Major challenge to diagnosing is that I didn't really monitor motor temps before magnets came loose. All I know is that baserunner came with a 130 C thermal limit. Here is simulator output from a hill I climb regularly:

1685810969.png

This is on a 30 C day with 20 kg in saddle bags (i.e. worst case scenario for me). Not bad right? It ends at my destination so motor cools off after. Whole trip is 6 min so its over 100 C for just 2 minutes. This is with 100 W of human power and it's totally possible that I got heavy on the throttle and lazy on the legs (that's a solvable problem though! will get a torque sensor, see below).

So now I have two options: A) get the G311 fixed under warranty for free or B) upgrade. My question is am I asking for trouble sticking with it?

Reasons to stick with the G311:
  • Free
  • Maybe first one had defective adhesive and I'll be fine just running as I was
  • Maybe I ran it too hard and could manage to keep the temps 10-20C lower by adding a torque sensor, pedaling a little harder up hills, lowering the thermal limit and just keeping an eye on things, I think I do this with little effect on my travel times.
  • Get down to the bottom of this, in the name of science! I feel they shouldn't be selling this motor with those claims about the adhesive and those thermal limits if it's not reliable?
  • It's the lightest option
  • 3/8" axle allowed me to use a gravity-based anti-theft lock nut (Abus nutfix or Kryptonite wheelnutz). Believe it or not this is huge for me. If I can't do this I'll probably go with a rear hub so I can lock it with the frame (folding bike has no top tube so only place to lock frame is rear triangle)
  • The performance was ample while it worked, I have little desire to go more than 20 mph, and happy to go less than that up hills and make up for it on the way down; I've been riding with no motor again for 2 weeks and it's fun! I like exercise, I am not expecting a motorcycle
Reasons to upgrade:
  • Higher likelihood of reliability (but how much higher, that's what I'm trying to figure), especially if I go with the ezee
  • Potential to go significantly faster if I ever want to
  • Trade my Z9 baserunner for an L10, which seems like it might be handy for a future project

TL;DR: was the G311 failure was a fluke? Or are these motors doomed in hilly conditions? What is a safe thermal limit for them to last a long time? What could have caused that rust? Am I crazy to try again?
 

Attachments

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The wires Insulation can seep very limited amount of water inside, with the cooling and heating cycling that expands and contracts the materials. The rust in the pic doesnt look to bad. You could goop some silicone into the axle, I bought new hub motors that had white silican at the axles exit and entrance, but the wires can seep water in between the insulation and the conductor with the cycling as mentioned.

Fixed under warranty for free, but do you have to pay shipping?
 
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