New Bafang Crank-Drives

[tomcortijo]

My BBS02 just died. If i try to turn it on it will only tun on for a second (literally) and then turn back off. If i keep the on/off button pressed I get "error 30". The motor has a serial number from june this year and i just put 2400 miles on it in abut 2 monts (i am touring the US). Questions for BBS02 owners.

Have you found solution for err 30 in your motors?
Have you contacted Bafang directly for replacement? Any success?

Thanks a lot!!

 

[teslanv]

Check the battery lead connections. I had to resolder my connections when it did the exact same thing. Fixed my problem.

 

[0utrider]

I've been absolutely loving my BBS02! Over the past month or so I've been commuting to work several times per week and for the most part things have been working great. All except for one problem. I'm now on my 3rd flat rear tire!

Is it common to have increased flat tires due to all the extra weight/stress etc? Or is there some other issue I need to figure out?

Also, I'm using the stock mountain bike'ish tires which probably aren't the best for on-road commuting. Any recommendations for better on road tires?

Frankenstien uses a pair of 29X2.00 Serfas Drifters. I picked up a barely used set for $25 and I really like them. They also come in 26X1.5 and 26X2.00 sizes.

 

[Ghee]

ebrakes connector may cause error 30 .it happen to my Bafang BBS02

 

[cwah]

how can I find out the list of errors?

 

[Tom L]

There's a list in the back of the manual.

 

[Ghee]

Some list of error on Page16
https://onedrive.live.com/view.aspx?cid=92088474CCB8CD05&resid=92088474CCB8CD05%215061&app=WordPdf&authkey=%21ANVVfvQeIRwB9Lo&wdo=1

 

[tomjasz]

From manuals listed below photo

error code 30 in C963 manual = Communication abnormality in system

 

[Rusty123]

Anybody installed one of the new (9 fet) controllers on an original motor? I ordered a new controller from EM3EV, but didn't anticipate that the motor to controller plug had changed. Gotta come up with some sort of workaround.

 

[Kepler]

What has changed with the plugs exactly? Can you take a couple of photos?

 

[Samd]

My BBS02 just died. If i try to turn it on it will only tun on for a second (literally) and then turn back off. If i keep the on/off button pressed I get "error 30". The motor has a serial number from june this year and i just put 2400 miles on it in abut 2 monts (i am touring the US). Questions for BBS02 owners.

Have you found solution for err 30 in your motors?
Have you contacted Bafang directly for replacement? Any success?

Thanks a lot!!

Error 30 is dead comms. I have one currently in a 250w unit. Unfortunately its not in the Rx/Tx wires between display and controller. New controller due today from china.

 

[skyungjae]

BMS Battery:

2014-10-14 16:19:13 QC OK
2014-09-22 09:04:39 Testing
2014-09-20 10:16:03 Payment accepted

Is this good?

 

[0utrider]

BMS Battery:

2014-10-14 16:19:13 QC OK
2014-09-22 09:04:39 Testing
2014-09-20 10:16:03 Payment accepted

Is this good?

Sounds like forward movement to me!

 

[Tom L]

Anybody installed one of the new (9 fet) controllers on an original motor? I ordered a new controller from EM3EV, but didn't anticipate that the motor to controller plug had changed. Gotta come up with some sort of workaround.

I installed a new 9 FET controller from EM3EV on one of the early BBS02 750W motors from Lectric Cycles. All plugs and sockets matched except for the battery wires. EM3EV used banana plugs, Lectric Cycles used a 4 pin DIN plug. Very easy to swap it if you have basic soldering skills.

 

[teslanv]

I think Rusty probably has the Really old connector, used on units made pre-November 2013. I recently came across a BBS02 from 10/2013 and it had the old connector.
Rusty, you might be stuck having to buy the display unit as well, unless you want to take a shot at cutting off and adding your own new connectors.
[Edit] I just remembered that Mikebikerad has a couple new old stock motors with the really old connectors. He might be willing to swap out one of his 6-fet controllers for your 9FET unit. You don't get the upgraded controller, but you would save having to buy the new display. Just a thought.

 

[Rusty123]

What has changed with the plugs exactly? Can you take a couple of photos?

Photo of the existing plug attached. I'm on the road this week, so don't have a photo of the new plug, but it's bigger.

I installed a new 9 FET controller from EM3EV on one of the early BBS02 750W motors from Lectric Cycles. All plugs and sockets matched except for the battery wires. EM3EV used banana plugs, Lectric Cycles used a 4 pin DIN plug. Very easy to swap it if you have basic soldering skills.

Agree with you here, but it's not the battery connection that's the issue, it's the connection between the controller and the wiring harness.

I think Rusty probably has the Really old connector, used on units made pre-November 2013. I recently came across a BBS02 from 10/2013 and it had the old connector.
Rusty, you might be stuck having to buy the display unit as well, unless you want to take a shot at cutting off and adding your own new connectors.
[Edit] I just remembered that Mikebikerad has a couple new old stock motors with the really old connectors. He might be willing to swap out one of his 6-fet controllers for your 9FET unit. You don't get the upgraded controller, but you would save having to buy the new display. Just a thought.

I bet you're right - installed this motor in November 2013, and I'm sure it had been on the shelf before that.

My 6FET controller works fine, I just wanted to upgrade to the 9FET to get more peak amps (500 watt vs. 350 watt, @36v).

I suppose I could cut the plug off my old controller and use it to replace the plug on the new controller, assuming the wires (color and number) didn't change. Or just do away with the plug and splice the harness directly to the new controller.

 

[tomcortijo]

I just wanted to tell you guys. I have a BBS02 (manufactured june 2014).

After 2500 miles (crossing America on my bike, and still on the road trying to get to Maine before the snow).

- Makes a awful lot of noise, specially after it rains (every time it rains I squeeze tons of oil into it)
- Burnt my connecting (battery cable, the black one) it took only 10 minutes to fix
- The throttle still pushes strong (and i can pedal on top of it)
- The assist doesn't do much and it sometimes gets stuck.

I'll keep posting until the motor dies! I have a spare and I want to make 6k miles. I am hoping this motor will make it another 500 miles until i have to use the spare!

I hope that helps!!

 

[skyungjae]

I just wanted to tell you guys. I have a BBS02 (manufactured june 2014).

After 2500 miles (crossing America on my bike, and still on the road trying to get to Maine before the snow).

- Makes a awful lot of noise, specially after it rains (every time it rains I squeeze tons of oil into it)
- Burnt my connecting (battery cable, the black one) it took only 10 minutes to fix
- The throttle still pushes strong (and i can pedal on top of it)
- The assist doesn't do much and it sometimes gets stuck.

I'll keep posting until the motor dies! I have a spare and I want to make 6k miles. I am hoping this motor will make it another 500 miles until i have to use the spare!

I hope that helps!!

Talking about putting it through a torture test.

I'm definitely looking forward to getting mine. Hopefully it will ship out soon.

 

[tungsten2k]

I did have the opportunity to ride the BBS02 and while nowhere near as smooth as the Bosch, is certainly usable. The biggest difference is that while the Bosch immediately reduces power with your pedaling, allowing instant shifting just as you would without assist, the BBS02 assist doesn't allow this, instead requiring either a stop for a few seconds, or tapping the brakes to stop assist to allow the shift. While annoying, for the difference in price, I will live with it.

Has anyone tried to go to a 11T final similar to this no-name cassette ?
11,xx,xx,xx,xx,26,34 http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-7-Speed-Freehub-Cassette-11-34T/dp/B008ZSAAQI/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_4

Alternatively, there's a Shimano 13-34T that would likely be better build quality and stronger, but lower top speed:
13,15,17,20,24,29,34 http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG50-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28/dp/B001AYOL32/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_3

And finally, or is it smartter to just go with a close-range to aide with the human-power (and even lower top speed, but stronger 14T gear) for the lower 6, with a big jump to the single 34 "MEGARANGE" for pulling the 1000' 15/20% vertical climb to my house ?:
14,16,18,20,22,24,34 http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ31-Tourney-Freewheel-14-34T/dp/B003RLNOKC/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_1

Any adivce would be appreciated. My goal is to have a resonably ridable bike with minimal assist (PAS compensating for the extra weight of the BBS02/batteries) with the bulk of the BBS02 doing the work to get me up the hill to my house. I'm trying to prep for my BBS02 and the loss of my lower and higher front gears

Thanks to all the forum members here for both advice and offers to test-ride !

-=dave

 

[mwkeefer]

Dave,

What your referring to is a parameter which you can program in the BBS02 controller, it's the delay time in ms between when it stops receiving PAS pulses and when it drops throttle... if memory serves there is also a power percentage too.

I've experimented with a solution on an 8 speed twist shifter:

1.) I placed 8 mini hall sensors inside the actual stationary side of the shifter body in alignment with the gear indents / notches.
2.) I placed the shifter in 1st gear then 4th then 8th and ensured the indicator line on the twist shifter lined up properly with the body of the shifter for the given speeds
3.) I then placed a small neodyem magnet (Radioshack, the mini type) in a recess I made on the twist shifter portion which was inset in a small divit (Drilled it almost through) and then I simply epoxyed it in place.
4.) Using a simple microcontroller ADC for each hall sensor return line I measure in code the return voltage... minor fluctuations (1/4mm or so) are ignored (dead space or giggle space) but once the threshold is crossed and the voltage change is sufficient I trigger the eBrake line until it returns to an acceptible voltage return which happens to be when it reaches a proper detent and the eBrake line is released.

It's a bit complicated but makes for great shifting.

Tweaking the controller settings, delay ramps, etc and adding anything similar (you could mount a single hall sensor on the rear derailer and a powerful magnet in the right spot and acheive the same effect, no it didn't dawn on me before all the work - it was for a client anyway, had to earn my keep) to dead out the motor rotation preshift automatically makes an assisted ride much more, well bicycle like.

In my latest incarnation of a BBS02 which started with an older 750w model with a BLOWN CONTROLLER and since the replacement controller uses the same LCD (961) but not a darn bit of common wiring harness, I've decided to ditch or more aptly bypass the internal controller and replace with an Ed Lyen 6FET Mini Monster with IRFB4110 (would use IRFB3077 but the other was on the shelf). My solution here is actually much simpler as I replaced the twist shift with a pull and push trigger shifter, this is also only a 7 speed (by design) and instead of multiple hall sensors and a single strong magnet I'm building into the gear indicator window a single Hall Sensor and using a magnet from a hall throttle slightly rebent and epoxied into place so the hall sensor moves with each gear change and just like a hall based throttle delivers between 0 (1st gear) and 4.7v (7th gear). This made the microcontroller code (arduino328 but would fit on an AtTiny85) much simpler and requires a single ADC channel input. I calibrated it by taking measurements of voltage return at each gear between 1 and 7 and then allowing sufficient "wow and flutter" or deviation. When the deviation is exceeded I trip the ebrake cable but this new design works 2 ways:

1.) Each gear change engages the eBrake while in transition to allow interta of spooling down motor to start the shift (moving the chain actually) and then it returns full power to the motor when the gear selection is positively engaged - added bonus, the microcontroller knows what gear I am in.

2.) Same as above except, by enabling Regenerative braking at the same time as the eBrake cutout causes the internal motor of the Bafang to literally stop on the spot between shifts. I added this mode to facilitate shifting internal geared hubs which require no rotational input to shift such as the SA8 amongst others... while not for everyone, it does a really great job where needed.

Hope this helps you!

mwkeefer

I did have the opportunity to ride the BBS02 and while nowhere near as smooth as the Bosch, is certainly usable. The biggest difference is that while the Bosch immediately reduces power with your pedaling, allowing instant shifting just as you would without assist, the BBS02 assist doesn't allow this, instead requiring either a stop for a few seconds, or tapping the brakes to stop assist to allow the shift. While annoying, for the difference in price, I will live with it.

Has anyone tried to go to a 11T final similar to this no-name cassette ? http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-7-Speed-Freehub-Cassette-11-34T/dp/B008ZSAAQI/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_4

I'm preppy for my BBS02 and the loss of my lower and higher front gears

Thanks to all the forum members here for both advice and offers to test-ride !

-=dave

 

[tungsten2k]

That's an ingenious idea actually. Bafang would do well to possibly incorporate official support for this with a shifter upgrade option and software kit to "calbibrate" it to your own gear set.

Can't wait for it to get here...

-=dave

 

[teslanv]

I am running my BBS02 on a 11T-32T 8-speed cassette, and 48T Stock Chainring and 26" Wheels.

I can get up to 46 mph on a good downhill grade, and ~35mph on the flat, WOT with some help pedaling...

 

[tomcortijo]

I did have the opportunity to ride the BBS02 and while nowhere near as smooth as the Bosch, is certainly usable. The biggest difference is that while the Bosch immediately reduces power with your pedaling, allowing instant shifting just as you would without assist, the BBS02 assist doesn't allow this, instead requiring either a stop for a few seconds, or tapping the brakes to stop assist to allow the shift. While annoying, for the difference in price, I will live with it.

I thought i was the only one using my brake as a clutch

My first BBS02 just died at 2500 miles (i believe gears just wore out). The motor turns and screen looks fine but nothing comes out of it. The good thing is that I contacted Bafang directly and because I am touring the US they will replace my motor right away !!!

 

[teslanv]

If Bafang is not requesting your old unit back you should really save it for someone who can disassemble it and find out what part(s) or system(s) failed. There are not many motors out there with that many miles on them.

 

[GeoKrpan]

I think the 11 tooth cassette is the better way to go. 7 & 8 speed mountain bike cassettes are very cheap, $15 or even less on the Internet. So, when they wear out, it's not a big deal. For some reason 8 speed close ratio road cassettes are usually twice the price, and, don't have a very low, low gear. Always go Shimano when you can, even the cheapest Shimano cassettes are of good quality.

I did have the opportunity to ride the BBS02 and while nowhere near as smooth as the Bosch, is certainly usable. The biggest difference is that while the Bosch immediately reduces power with your pedaling, allowing instant shifting just as you would without assist, the BBS02 assist doesn't allow this, instead requiring either a stop for a few seconds, or tapping the brakes to stop assist to allow the shift. While annoying, for the difference in price, I will live with it.

Has anyone tried to go to a 11T final similar to this no-name cassette ?
11,xx,xx,xx,xx,26,34 http://www.amazon.com/Sunlite-7-Speed-Freehub-Cassette-11-34T/dp/B008ZSAAQI/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_4

Alternatively, there's a Shimano 13-34T that would likely be better build quality and stronger, but lower top speed:
13,15,17,20,24,29,34 http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-CS-HG50-7-Speed-Cassette-12-28/dp/B001AYOL32/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_3

And finally, or is it smartter to just go with a close-range to aide with the human-power (and even lower top speed, but stronger 14T gear) for the lower 6, with a big jump to the single 34 "MEGARANGE" for pulling the 1000' 15/20% vertical climb to my house ?:
14,16,18,20,22,24,34 http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-MF-TZ31-Tourney-Freewheel-14-34T/dp/B003RLNOKC/ref=pd_rhf_dp_p_img_1

Any adivce would be appreciated. My goal is to have a resonably ridable bike with minimal assist (PAS compensating for the extra weight of the BBS02/batteries) with the bulk of the BBS02 doing the work to get me up the hill to my house. I'm trying to prep for my BBS02 and the loss of my lower and higher front gears

Thanks to all the forum members here for both advice and offers to test-ride !

-=dave