Ken Taylor
100 W
Put a reasonable tension on with the puller. Then hold a reasonable size metal mass (a couple of kilos is good) on one side of the crank and hit the other side with a good size hammer. The blow should be absorbed by the metal mass and the shock will dislodge the crank from the taper. On other bikes I've found this works even when the threads are too damaged to attach a puller.pjgold said:Also any tips for removing the crank arm, I have the correct puller but it won't budge and i don't want to strip the threads.
The crank bolts came with thread lock but I removed the cranks once and didn't put new thread lock when they were refitted. I've had the crank arms on both sides come loose after 500-1000 kilometres and now put thread lock on the crank bolts. I've never had to do this on other bikes which makes me think the tapers in the crank arms are imprecise. So far, nothing else has come loose. In my view thread lock is a last resort because it isn't necessary when things are undamaged and well designed and is horrible when things are pulled apart and reassembled.