New Bafang Crank-Drives

[oldhippie]

I don't try any really rough stuff with me and the bike pushing 280lbs but, it does well enough on the dirt hiking trails around and the box is great for shopping...

 

[TomHed50]

Are there any alternatives to the crankarms? I come from a dh/am background and tend to push things pretty hard
Something with the strength of shimano saint would be nice

And how much drag is there from the motor when pedaling without motor on?
Is it like a dd hubmotor?

 

[amigafan2003]

Are there any alternatives to the crankarms? I come from a dh/am background and tend to push things pretty hard
Something with the strength of shimano saint would be nice

Any square taper arm should do - bearing in mind you'd need two left ones, not a RH one with a spider. Also, bear in mind, it's alot easier to replace a crank arm than it is to replace a bottom bracket on one of these kits - so if you beef up the arms the next point of failure is the BB shaft/bearings.

And how much drag is there from the motor when pedaling without motor on?
Is it like a dd hubmotor?

If you said a geared motor would be 5% drag and a DD motor would be 100%, then a BBS would be somewhere around 15%. So, a bit more drag than a geared motor, but nowhere near the same as a DD motor.

 

[jateureka]

Are there any alternatives to the crankarms? I come from a dh/am background and tend to push things pretty hard
Something with the strength of shimano saint would be nice....

Maybe use a crank set with removeable spider like XT M750.
OR Trials cranks, something like Middleburn RS7?
OR like the other poster said, use 2 left crank arms, but have one pedal thread drilled out and a hellicoil thread insert fitted for standard right hand thread to use on the right side

 

[teslanv]

Unicycle cranks don't have a spider arm. I replaced a crank set using those. Unfortunately the uni cranks are not any stronger than the Bafang cranks.

 

[mclark999]

Tom[/quote]

It will tell me Instantaneous Volts, Watts & Amps, Minimum Volts, Maximum Amps as well as Accumulated Amp-Hours & Watt-Hours.
It's the next best thing to a cycle analyst, and much easier to install with the BBS02 kit.[/quote]

What BBS02 kit do you have? What are you seeing for max amps and what do you see for continuous amps when you have it set to the various levels?

 

[maxwell92036]

Finally did a range test on two of my Bafang crank drive bikes. I was on one and my wife on the other. Me on the 500 watt model and her on the 750 watt model. Identical 15 Amp hour batteries.
Went to visit a friend 40 miles away. Started at 4300 feet and ended up at around 1000 feet. Recharged at his place. My wife outpaced me most of the way back but her bike ran out of juice with about 10 miles to go and around 1500 feet more climbing. I made it almost all the way back before my power shut off.
So a range of 40 miles with over 4,000 feet of climbing is pretty darn good in my opinion!
I don't want to run the batteries that low again but now I feel comfortable going 30 miles between charges even with a lot of climbing.
The battery meter on the bafang display is not very accurate. Once you start showing less than 4 bars you are getting low. Once you are at one bar the display acted up on me.
Both motors had the nylon clutch replaced but are running fine now. I got over 600 miles on one and over 260 miles on the other one.

 

[nukezero]

Finally did a range test on two of my Bafang crank drive bikes. I was on one and my wife on the other. Me on the 500 watt model and her on the 750 watt model. Identical 15 Amp hour batteries.
Went to visit a friend 40 miles away. Started at 4300 feet and ended up at around 1000 feet. Recharged at his place. My wife outpaced me most of the way back but her bike ran out of juice with about 10 miles to go and around 1500 feet more climbing. I made it almost all the way back before my power shut off.
So a range of 40 miles with over 4,000 feet of climbing is pretty darn good in my opinion!
I don't want to run the batteries that low again but now I feel comfortable going 30 miles between charges even with a lot of climbing.
The battery meter on the bafang display is not very accurate. Once you start showing less than 4 bars you are getting low. Once you are at one bar the display acted up on me.
Both motors had the nylon clutch replaced but are running fine now. I got over 600 miles on one and over 260 miles on the other one.

why does she get the 750w model ?

 

[tomjasz]

GT Precision Watt meter.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00C5...200_QL40&qid=1403583630&sr=8-2#ref=mp_s_a_1_2

Would you share were on your system you installed it?

Tom

I just installed it in line with my battery leads. (Battery + & - into Watt-meter then Watt-meter + & - to Bafang Drive.) It is mounted on my handle bar stem just below my Head unit.

It will tell me Instantaneous Volts, Watts & Amps, Minimum Volts, Maximum Amps as well as Accumulated Amp-Hours & Watt-Hours.
It's the next best thing to a cycle analyst, and much easier to install with the BBS02 kit.

Missed this answer. what about this comment?

There's a risk of damaging the motor controller if the wires between the battery and controller are extended. If the battery wires are extended then extra capacitors should probably be added to the wires near the controller.

 

[speedmd]

Finally did a range test on two of my Bafang crank drive bikes. I was on one and my wife on the other. Me on the 500 watt model and her on the 750 watt model. Identical 15 Amp hour batteries.
Went to visit a friend 40 miles away. Started at 4300 feet and ended up at around 1000 feet. Recharged at his place. My wife outpaced me most of the way back but her bike ran out of juice with about 10 miles to go and around 1500 feet more climbing. I made it almost all the way back before my power shut off.
So a range of 40 miles with over 4,000 feet of climbing is pretty darn good in my opinion!
I don't want to run the batteries that low again but now I feel comfortable going 30 miles between charges even with a lot of climbing.
The battery meter on the bafang display is not very accurate. Once you start showing less than 4 bars you are getting low. Once you are at one bar the display acted up on me.
Both motors had the nylon clutch replaced but are running fine now. I got over 600 miles on one and over 260 miles on the other one.

I was estimating my 12s 2p lipo (4x 6s 8000mah zippy bricks) 16amp hour pack would do 30 miles reliably but I don't like running them down that far. What exactly are you using for the 15 amp hour packs?

 

[teslanv]

Range will depend greatly on how high assist level you choose.
If I let the throttle do all the work, I get ~35 wh/mile. I can't really get much worse than that.
Dropping to a 40% assist level, (Level 4 of 9 as I have it programmed) I can get close to 10 wh/mile.
Of course, the less assist you use, the better your range will be.
I find it pretty easy to guess my assist level if I know my battery wh capacity and how far I want to ride. - And being able to change assist level on the fly, if my initial estimate is getting off-course, is super simple.
Having a watt meter like this helps a ton to keep track of things:
http://www.amazon.com/Power-130a-Pr...26069&sr=8-1&keywords=gt+precision+watt+meter

 

[pexio]

Are there any alternatives to the crankarms? I come from a dh/am background and tend to push things pretty hard
Something with the strength of shimano saint would be nice....

Maybe use a crank set with removeable spider like XT M750.
Or like the other poster said, use 2 left crank arms, but have one pedal thread drillout and a thread insert fitted for standard right hand thread to use on the right side

Sugino XD cranks are pretty strong. You can buy the left one from lots of places, like Amazon . The right one comes from Sugino's tandem crankset. This saves having to muck around with pedal threads.

 

[0utrider]

Eye candy

Awesome looking build!

 

[0utrider]

Here is my 2013 Bad Boy 1 with a BBS02 750w and 48v 11Ah battery

Beautiful build.

 

[maxwell92036]

Finally did a range test on two of my Bafang crank drive bikes. I was on one and my wife on the other. Me on the 500 watt model and her on the 750 watt model. Identical 15 Amp hour batteries.
Went to visit a friend 40 miles away. Started at 4300 feet and ended up at around 1000 feet. Recharged at his place. My wife outpaced me most of the way back but her bike ran out of juice with about 10 miles to go and around 1500 feet more climbing. I made it almost all the way back before my power shut off.
So a range of 40 miles with over 4,000 feet of climbing is pretty darn good in my opinion!
I don't want to run the batteries that low again but now I feel comfortable going 30 miles between charges even with a lot of climbing.
The battery meter on the bafang display is not very accurate. Once you start showing less than 4 bars you are getting low. Once you are at one bar the display acted up on me.
Both motors had the nylon clutch replaced but are running fine now. I got over 600 miles on one and over 260 miles on the other one.

I was estimating my 12s 2p lipo (4x 6s 8000mah zippy bricks) 16amp hour pack would do 30 miles reliably but I don't like running them down that far. What exactly are you using for the 15 amp hour packs?

I am using a 48 volt 15 amp hour NiCoMn pack

 

[Krakz]

Hi

i live in Germany. now it is possible, to get a bafang drive from UK at reasanable price and inside the EU - without tax trouble

So:
Bafang 002 48 V 750 Watt plus 48V 11A Samsung Akku makes around 850 Euro incl delivery

i have a bike to convert - its s a nice Stevebs CC Fully Race Bike and maybe a bit old and to light build to convert - with another bike as basis - price maybe rise to 2000 Euro

But:
For around 2000 Euro i can Buy a Haibike Xduro with Bosch System Motor an 400 wh at the end of season

My Question: Makes it any sense to choose the bafang motor over the bosch for nearly the same price?


I use the bike for trail in the holiday and the flat way to work eveyday. Germany has a limit at 25 km/h - but i will use both bafang/bosch to a speed up to 35 km/h - not more possible, because of the type of my way to work

Thanx

 

[Fishy1]

Anybody have any sort of information regarding reliability issues between the 500 and 750 watt BBS02 kits? I understand the change in the number of fets was required to cope with 25 amps but what effect has the extra power had on mechanical reliability? Both 500 and 750 watt kits are identical mechanically.

 

[tumich]

Hi

i live in Germany. now it is possible, to get a bafang drive from UK at reasanable price and inside the EU - without tax trouble

So:
Bafang 002 48 V 750 Watt plus 48V 11A Samsung Akku makes around 850 Euro incl delivery

i have a bike to convert - its s a nice Stevebs CC Fully Race Bike and maybe a bit old and to light build to convert - with another bike as basis - price maybe rise to 2000 Euro

But:
For around 2000 Euro i can Buy a Haibike Xduro with Bosch System Motor an 400 wh at the end of season

My Question: Makes it any sense to choose the bafang motor over the bosch for nearly the same price?


I use the bike for trail in the holiday and the flat way to work eveyday. Germany has a limit at 25 km/h - but i will use both bafang/bosch to a speed up to 35 km/h - not more possible, because of the type of my way to work

Thanx

Hello,
I though about this Haibike with bosch and Bafang. I typed Bafang because of better performance and Bafang has cheap replacement item if something gone wrong. Probably Bosch has better quality but not enought power. It's 250W vs 750w. Also I have access to cheap cells from Bosch powerpack so its better idea. I'm making powerpack from 120 cells, so its 1200Wh and with plastic case like on haibike my bike will looks like stealth
it depends on you whether you want to modify the bike or have ready like "plug and play".
Greedings

 

[sacko]

Hi

i live in Germany. now it is possible, to get a bafang drive from UK at reasanable price and inside the EU - without tax trouble

So:
Bafang 002 48 V 750 Watt plus 48V 11A Samsung Akku makes around 850 Euro incl delivery

i have a bike to convert - its s a nice Stevebs CC Fully Race Bike and maybe a bit old and to light build to convert - with another bike as basis - price maybe rise to 2000 Euro

But:
For around 2000 Euro i can Buy a Haibike Xduro with Bosch System Motor an 400 wh at the end of season

My Question: Makes it any sense to choose the bafang motor over the bosch for nearly the same price?


I use the bike for trail in the holiday and the flat way to work eveyday. Germany has a limit at 25 km/h - but i will use both bafang/bosch to a speed up to 35 km/h - not more possible, because of the type of my way to work

Thanx

Check out the link in my sig.

I bought mine from him (Spacey from here)

 

[Krakz]

Jep Thanx

Power - it s possible to modify the bosch motor - and System has enough Power to go to 35 km/h

2014 Boschmotor has more Harmony in Looks
Things I Like with the bafang

It is possible to choose a different basic bike

I can choose the akku pack i like - for now a dolphn case 48 V 11 A will do it - but if needes, i can easy buy an other one

Maybe I sell the Stevens CC Racefully for a few bucks and buy a solid Hardtail ......

 

[tomjasz]

Jep Thanx

Power - it s possible to modify the bosch motor - and System has enough Power to go to 35 km/h

BBS01 36V 350W has the power to run 35KPH!!

 

[mclark999]

Your problem is a common one discussed many times. Best solution for you is to use this 42 tooth chainring which will then give you the 6mm back to correct you chainline http://www.alcedoitalia.it/shop/guarniture/corona-42-denti-per-bafang-centrale-bbs01/. Next go to an 11/36 rear cluster or if you want crazy climbing power go to an 11/42 rear cluster. See this thread for a good example of this setup.. http://www.endless-sphere.com/forums/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=61070

Is there a less expensive option for correcting the chain line? I dont necessarily need the lower gearing.

 

[mclark999]

Lectric-cycles sells milled aluminum adapters for mounting 4 point and 5 point chainrings... But they will shift your chainline outward from 50mm to 54 or more... So for some rear derailuer rigs that might be problematic for your low gears.
You might need a chainguide.

If using a 130mm BCD adapter and chainrings, would it be possible to place the chainring and some spacers inboard of the adapter to bring the chainline back where it should be, or will the drives body not fit within the circle afforded by the 130 BCD ring? If that makes sense...

I'm actually going to try this shortly on my 20" bike with one of eride's 6mm rebated adapters which he's sending me. There are two or three issues that I can see:
- the adapter ideally needs to have it's inner face as close as possible to the BBS main gear case (eride seems to have managed this with a large, central milled rebate)
- the adapter arms need to allow the chainring fitted on the inner face to clear the gear case (again, eride seems to have accounted for this with rebates milled into the ends of the arms).
- I may also have to ensure that the chainring is oriented with its rebated bolt-holes facing the gear case to ensure that protruding chainring bolts don't foul on the gear case.

I have already got one of erides non-rebated 3mm adapters. I'm not sure that the 6mm machined one will be better but we'll see. I would like to see my 60T ring more centrally located, although as I've said, I don't experience chain-loss problems anyway. I do have my rear derailleur (an old Suntour Cyclone 7000 medium length) adjusted so that the chain is never 'loose' and the chain ring has no ramps or other rubbishy features.

I'm also going to try the BBS on a 700C bike with a 5 or 6 speed cassette and a Sachs Orbit 'dual drive' 2-speed rear hub. The hub and bike in question have a 130mm rear OLD/spacing and a 68mmBB width. I'll just use the standard BBS dished 48T ring first up and see what transpires. Should be interesting (you can see I'm easily pleased although some may call it 'cheap thrills').
Savvas.

Did you ever give this a try? My stock BBS on my 73mm bottom bracket sits so far out that I can't use the last 3 gears on my 8 speed cluster. I think I'd need to move the chainring in about 5 mm to solve the problem.

 

[Arakasy]

How do you change gears while using Pedal assist ? My fang has no throttle and when I change gears it's very harsh on the rear cassette.

 

[tomjasz]

I brake enough to disengage motor, shift, pedal to change gears and resume. Nice smooth shifts. It took a bit of practice but works for me.