cwah
100 MW
I tried the C963 display which is 20usd more expensive than the C961, but it has actually less functionality and less voltage?? And speed is limited to 40km/h???
Why is that?
Why is that?
New Bafang Crank-Drives
- Thread starter d8veh
- Start date
melodious
100 kW
I'll add another gripe and welcome a lesson why there is a 1/2 second delay before power cutoff? I understand the delay and rampup on startup is to preserve drivetrain, but the cutoff is baffling. :?
tomjasz
1 GW
I've had two resellers tell me that the only reason they stock the 963 is because they have requests and that they prefer to sell the 961 with their kits.cwah said:
John Bozi
100 kW
melodious said:
I brought this a few pages back with no idea.
I wonder if I can pull apart the ebrake and epoxy the sensor to the thumb throttle so that the motor is cut off when the throttle is not engaged. (I don't use PAS as that half second is dangerous).
Has anyone tried using the ebrake softly at the end of powering to see if the delay gets cancelled?
I don't really see the point in thumb throttle as I was trying to see if you can hold it quarter turn half turn and to see if there is a power difference, I couldn't see the difference. I reckon just simple push button (like regen button would work just as well.)
Geebee
1 kW
My guess is that it is to take the small shock load off the gears with the motor cutting in and out constantly if pedalling slowly, use a brake cut out and there is no issue with the 1/2 second and gives you a backup if your throttle breaks or jams.
My throttle is a switch as soon as you turn enough to get the motor to start and then hold it there it will slowly wind up to maximum speed twist all the way gives the same response, the only use my throttle gets is to some times change gears with out a full cut off with the brake switch as it seems to give a slightly faster and gentler response from the motor, I have considered replacing the throttle with a push button but still in the procrastinating stage about it
My throttle is a switch as soon as you turn enough to get the motor to start and then hold it there it will slowly wind up to maximum speed twist all the way gives the same response, the only use my throttle gets is to some times change gears with out a full cut off with the brake switch as it seems to give a slightly faster and gentler response from the motor, I have considered replacing the throttle with a push button but still in the procrastinating stage about it
cwah
100 MW
tomjasz said:
What about the new c965? What does it worth?
tomjasz
1 GW
The C965 displays the amount of wattage the motor is currently using. When you apply the throttle, it will tell you how many watts used at that moment only or "instantaneous" wattage. It will not calculate the total wattage used or tell you how many Ah you used. So for example... you have an 11.6 Ah pack, the display will not tell you how many Ah you have used and cannot be used like a fuel gauge.
0utrider
100 W
tomjasz said:
I have a sub-$100 children's bicycle which has better Plastic levers than the apparently pot metal formed versions that came with my Bafang BBS-02. It could because of the specific supplier saving a dollar with their kit but it looks just like the rest of the levers I've seen in the photos others have shown. They do work and that’s not my complaint. It’s just that they not tops with the visible fit and finish and are lacking in a tactile operational quality. It is a stark contrast to the rest of the kit which in my opinion is above-par in appearance and function for a product manufactured anywhere.
Samd
10 MW
Thinking of throwing one on a carbon 29er. But the BB shell is nearly 20mm thick from inside thread thru to outer area. I don't have a spare bbs on me to check, but does anyone know what the maximum BB shell thickness can be before hacking onto anything?
Cheers.
Cheers.
cjh
100 W
It will clear 56mm diameter of American BB. Just tried it this week
cjh
100 W
Just double checked and the O.D. was 57mm with about another 1mm to spare before it fouls on the motor housing.
scfoster
10 W
Samd said:
Probably won't work. I started with a Cannondale Rush Carbon frame. The BB thickness is 19mm and it did not work. Had to purchase a metal frame bike.
Sorry for the bad news.
Samd
10 MW
No that's ok - happy to machine out that section as carbon isn't so hard to modify with aerospace epoxy and the ally shell has huge contact area to bond back to.
Tossing up whether to give it the 2kw rear gearhub treatment instead for that extra bit of adrenalin. I'd have to bond rear torque plates then anyway.
If anyone does know the max BB shell diameter for clearance I'd be keen to know. Otherwise I'll unbolt our shop unit from the wifebike tonight and take a peek, time permitting...
Tossing up whether to give it the 2kw rear gearhub treatment instead for that extra bit of adrenalin. I'd have to bond rear torque plates then anyway.
If anyone does know the max BB shell diameter for clearance I'd be keen to know. Otherwise I'll unbolt our shop unit from the wifebike tonight and take a peek, time permitting...
John Bozi
100 kW
Samd said:
are you talking about gluing the motor to the carbon? If so, how would you service the motor?
I asked about this motor for my carbon ht ages ago and Kepler said it would not fit, but now that I own the motor at some pain staking stage I will have to pull this off the penny chopper and try installing it to make sure. I really think the bafang would shine on the lightest mountain bike possible for mild single track fun.
What I wish someone would do is design a frame ground up to encase this motor with more support and as a huge heat sink and hide the bats in the downtube.
tungsten2k
100 mW
scfoster said:
I went through this too.
1) Then you probably didn't install the motor as tight as you could up against the downtube. The rubber pad on the BBS0x is supposed to butt tight up to it. If you cannot do this, because of the design of the frame, then you probably should build something to take up the space so that the downtube is the primary part to keep the motor from twisting in the BB. There is a section of aluminum that makes up the thread section for one of the M6 bolts and it can sometimes hit the downtube first, preventing the rubber pad from resting against the tube, which can dent the tube, but also cause the motor to loosen as the dent gets deeper. It also torques the motor sideways. If yours hits, grind the section of the aluminum rib down on the BBS0x: there's enough thread there to handle loosing a little. The reason this issue exists, is the motor is now offset by 2.5mm (in your case) so is not centered as originally designed.
2) It's not good enough. You need a metal spacer that has almost NO GAP so that you can adequately tighten the bolts SOLID. Plastic won't cut it in the slightest as it will just crush under force of the bolts, causing the support bracket to bend; if that's not happening, it means you haven't tightened the bolts tight enough. Even if they could support the force at installation (they can't) they will crush and allow flex after a short amount of usage due to flexing and eventually loosen up causing the main BB nut to do the same.
Go buy aluminum or steel nuts that are either M6, or close enough so they can be drilled out to become spacers. The most important thing is their thickness: they must take up the entire space between the support bracket and the BBS0x motor case. Washers also work if stacked but you've got 5mm there so I would stick with a single length of spacer. If what you find is just a tad too tight to fit in, you can use 80-grit sand paper upside down on a glass table to hand-shave a them down a few thousands at a time until they are nice and snug so you can tap them into place before bolting. If you can't find any that are even close, you can use a grinder to grind rod nuts down, but that's more work. Lastly, there are aluminum crimp ferrals for making loop ends in stainless steel cabling that you can buy in case they might work better. Just go to home depot with your slide calipers and start measuring stuff. To drill out the threads of a nut (aluminum is best here), put it in a vice, or in a pair of vice grips, and use a Uni-bit(tm) with your cordless drill on a clutched setting so it doesn't twist our your wrist if it hangs.
In the end, that bracket needs to be fully supported by METAL stand-offs and the bolts tight as a drum. Alternatively, you can grind the BB partial of the way, and use spacers on the bracket for the remaining. Whichever works best for you, but they need to be SOLID tight with no gaps while the motor is pressed tight against the downtube before you tighten the BB nut, and then the bracket M6 bolts. Final tighten should be done with a dab of blue Loc-tite.
3) If your space allows, it should nicely improve the chainline. My KHS BB is 72mm but cannot be shortened since the swing arm pivot pin is the same 72mm width. I'm not running a jam nut and at first had it loosen on me. Turns out that meant I didn't have the spacers or BB nut tight enough. You need to fix #1 & #2 above, and *then* ensure it's all tightened with proper tools. For the BB nut, if you can't find a tool, you can buy a pair of large Vice-grip welding clamps, and grind the jaws down to fight in the slots of the BBS0x retaining nut (that's how I did it on the second tightening).
4) I wouldn't bother. If it loosens, you didn't get the other items done. I did put a small drop of blue Loc-Tite on mine just for good measure, but getting the whole thing tight is the real recipe for success.
If you do all this, I can assure you, they won't come out. Until then, you should keep an allen wrench in your pocket and check those M6 bolts before riding, because they WILL fall out again shortly due to flexing on the plastic spacers.
Good luck !
-=dave
0utrider
100 W
tungsten2k said:
The rubber pad? What rubber pad? Did I miss something installing my kit?
tungsten2k
100 mW
0utrider said:
Also highlighted is the rib that will likely need a bit shaved off (at an angle to match the clearance needed from the downtime. This is only because of using a bb wider than 68mm which causes the motor to not be centered on the BB per design.
-=dave
0utrider
100 W
Thanks man. I needed to remove the cranks to tighten the nut anyway so I'll inspect that I have it. If I don't, I'll add one!tungsten2k said:
scfoster
10 W
tungsten2k said:
Dave, thanks for the input. I've got some time off in the next few weeks so I was planning on revisiting the installation again anyway. The plan is to come up with a block of some sort to provide a pad/shim to fit up against the downtube and the motor (where the rubber pad is supposed to do this). Yes, there was a slight dent in the downtube.
The nylon nuts (now washers) were intended as temporary fixes to get me through the week. I was planning on cutting some tubing to make the correct length spacers in metal as you suggest.
I'm surprised that Bafang hasn't come out with a unit that supports a proper 73mm BB width. Looks like most of the bikes in the bike shop have 73mm BB's rather than 68mm.
I was wondering about that rubber pad. I had a problem with my rear derailleur cable getting deflected and rubbing on that rubber pad. If I were to butt up the rubber pad to the downtube, it would pinch my cable. So I left a small gap between the pad and the downtube. I thought the rubber pad was there to keep the cable from directly dragging on the metal housing.
I've only have 50+ miles on the BBS02, so no twisting of the BBS02 so far, but I like the idea of butting the unit up against the downtube. So in my case, I can't butt the two parts directly since I would need to leave a "channel" for my derailleur cable. I have some 3/16" or 1/4" hard rubber pieces that should fill that gap nicely to prevent the torqing. Thanks for the tip.
I've only have 50+ miles on the BBS02, so no twisting of the BBS02 so far, but I like the idea of butting the unit up against the downtube. So in my case, I can't butt the two parts directly since I would need to leave a "channel" for my derailleur cable. I have some 3/16" or 1/4" hard rubber pieces that should fill that gap nicely to prevent the torqing. Thanks for the tip.
samsavvas
100 W
scfoster said:
From Bafang's p.o.v, 0ver 90% of bikes in the world have standard 68mm wide bottom bracket shells - 73mm (and other widths) probably look like marketing aberrations.
One thing to be wary of if fitting the drive to a wider BB - which effectively moves the motor/gear housing to the RHS 5mm - is that this reduces thread engagement on the 2 x M6 retaining screws. If these are then tightened too enthusiastically it's easy to strip out whatever remaining thread in the alloy housing is still engaged by the screw! I experienced this when I had to fit a cassette spacer (about 4mm) on the RHS of the BB to allow the gear housing to clear a round chain stay on a traditional ladies frame that came very close to the end of the BB shell!. The 4mm spacer was thicker than necessary but was all I had at the time. I ended up having to find a longer M6 screw. So beware!
Savvas.
samsavvas
100 W
John Bozi said:
Check out Kepler's illustrated posts on this subject.
Savvas.
John Bozi
100 kW
samsavvas said:
in this thread of 158 pages? or somewhere else... I ll start at page one...
melodious
100 kW
quoted from an Aussie who was part of a group buy.
Kepler starts into the thread roundabout page 20. Still hunting for specifics ATM :| .
Edit: OK, page 42 starts the portion of modifying the cutoff delay. :lol: I just skip 4-6 pages at a time and speed read anything with Kepler in the title.
Bingo!
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