new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?

robocam said:
Dogboy's got it right! You hit the nail on its head! The lighter the bike, the easier it is to flick it around. For mountain bikers, this is key.

How many cells are in your battery? I'm trying to find the ideal size to carry.

Dogboy1200 said:
I keep my battery in my back pack for better handling. When I ride aggressively off road the CG of my body and battery follow a very different path then that of the CG of my bike. For example most tight single track trials I ride switch back and forth left to right. As I follow these trials I throw my bike from my left side to right and vice a versa. During each of these manuvers the CG of the bike moves about a couple feet more than the CG of my body and battery. It all happens quicker and with less effort the lighter the bike is and the added weight on my back has little effect on my ability to throw the bike from side to side. That's what seems to work best for me.

I initially bought 2 6s 8AH Lipo batteries from HK then I got a 10AH 52v brick from Luna. Now I keep both in my back pack and run the 52v till its BMS shuts it down then I plug in the 12s lipos. I think I'd prefer to run a 20AH 52v brick from Luna. For me it feels like a back pack battery has to be below 15lbs. Any bigger would be uncomfortable.
 
Stinky Goal,

not exactly, but if you carry tools and water on your back with a pedal only bike, you waste more energy than when they are tied to the seat tube or down tube. I can write the equations of motion so it becomes quite obvious when you apply a "random walk" to these that performance is better for low CG as the simple measurements show.
 
Robo,

the idea of sprung and unsprung weight is too keep and get the wheels/tires that are on a suspension system in contact with the ground sooner so you have ground control more of the time. If they are heavy or the holding arm has weak springs the time lag after a bump is longer for the tire to get full load and that results in less ground control time over the spring traveling interval. And unsprung weight, it is like the center of a bike is what always drive the bike towards the road -- A constant direction forcing function. A bike rider jumping up and down after a hitting a bump does little to change the time the bike is in the air. He has no where to push so he is mostly unsprung like weight for this action but he can change the center of gravity of the bike.

And contrary to what have said a heavier rider due to a backpack would have more weight to spring and hence a slower response time than if he were without a battery pack and that results in slower control feedback. Do you get the idea that more inertia leads to a slower motion response for the same muscle generated forces?

Karl? So he wrote an article that has mistakes.

And get this: None of what you have said addresses the fact that carrying the battery on your back increases the moment of inertia over what it would be if it were low slung above the BB.
 
DingusMcGee said:
Stinky Goal,

not exactly, but if you carry tools and water on your back with a pedal only bike, you waste more energy than when they are tied to the seat tube or down tube. I can write the equations of motion so it becomes quite obvious when you apply a "random walk" to these that performance is better for low CG as the simple measurements show.
When you thought I had only tried one method of carrying my batteries you erroneously claimed I had NO EXPERIENCE. Yes, in all caps. And now your telling us you have never tried running your bike as light as possible and put your batteries in a back pack?
 
What you are saying would only be true if the rider is rigidly attached to the bike and not allowed to move.

DingusMcGee said:
...carrying the battery on your back increases the moment of inertia over what it would be if it were low slung above the BB.
 
No Robo,

inertia works all the time and you pay for each change in the motion vector-- no free lunch here.

Put simply, in a rotational vs. linear response system, the rotational inertia is computed ( l x l x m) when treated as a lumped mass system . So if the center of gravity of your battery is 20" from the ground when mounted low and 60" from the ground when carried in your back pack the resulting ratio of inertial change is 60 x 60 / 20 x 20 = 9. Get that, 9 times the rotational inertia for right and left leaning motion change when carrying the battery on your back over having it low on the bike.

It is non-linear. Higher get worse very fast.
 
Dogboy1200,

do you know the idea of equivalence? The situation I explained is equivalent. But yes, it is not by the word the exact same thing. Sorry for this. But yes I have had one of my batteries in my backpack .... I do have 2 mounted low and I have carried one of them in a backpack with a great displeasure after the holding strap broke.
 
DingusMcGee said:
No Robo,

inertia works all the time and you pay for each change in movement -- no free lunch here.

Put simply, in a rotational vs. linear response system, the rotational inertia is computed ( l x l x m) when treated as a lumped mass system . So if the center of gravity of your battery is 20" from the ground when mounted low and 60" from the ground when carried in your back pack the resulting ratio of inertial change is 60 x 60 / 20 x 20 = 9. Get that, 9 times the rotational inertia for right and left leaning motion change when carrying your the battery on your back over having it low on the bike.

It is non-linear. Higher get worse very fast.

Here is the thing, your assuming the system works as a complete singular mass, but it doesnt.
I don't know the terminology as well as I should, but it seems you keep referring to center of gravity, but I think you should be considering moment of inertia and center of inertia instead.
Let us consider the requirements to execute a turn.
A bike, unlike a car, uses a concept known as slip angles to turn. The handlebars don't turn the bike, they only lean the bike. Once the bikes wheels are leaned over the sidewall running across the ground causes the wheel to "climb" into the lean, and while this happens the rider simply has to balance themselves and the bike against the centrifugal forces. Now I agree that the sum total of the rider and the bikes CoG is what matters when transitioning to a new direction or vector, once the bike is settled in the lean. But it's the moment of inertia that determines how "flickable" a cycle is. That and gyroscopic forces that we can ignore right now for this discussion, they are equal in either configuration.
So, I submit that the bike doesn't flick with the center of rotation being at the ground when moving. When done with maximum efficiency, a bike rotates at the center of inertia, as the bike sees it. And if your standing on the footpegs/pedals you can decouple the bikes center of inertia from the rider by rotating the bike well above the ground, putting the axis at the center of its mass. Did I make myself clear? Probably not. Let me explain what I mean. Imagine looking at a bike/rider from the front as it travels into a corner we think that the axis point of a bike leaning over is where the tires touch the ground. It's not. Because the bike is moving we can countersteer the handlebars this causes the tires to move to the outside as the top of the bike moves to the inside of the bikes path of travel, the axis that the bike rotates on is not the tires contact patches, it's the center of inertia, inside the frame. If the bike were stationary, then yes flicking the bike would require more input force because it has to rotate at the tires contact patch, which would result in a much higher moment of inertia when flicking side to side.
In fact, let's look at different types of motorcycles. A harley has a low center of gravity, compared to my Yamaha R1. But the R1 has a much smaller moment of inertia. Even if yoy account for weight,which one do you think is more flickable?
Ok, done. I may not have explained that well, sorry. I hope I got my point across there.
So how does any of that apply to a bike on the trail? This is where every one of you have more experience that me on an ebike, but the principals are the same, just at different proportions.
So, as I stated at the beginning of this story, the point is to lean the tires into the corner. The rider can stand and twist the bike on its axis independent from the rider when the rider pivots his mass on the pedals and can actually suspend himself/herself to act independent to the bikes lean. And, the rider can use this ability to actually change when and how their weight takes effect in the total mass calculations, so to speak. What do I mean by when? In a sense you can prepare for a corner as you approach it by positioning your body inside the direction of the corner while the bike is still standing verticle, allowing you to brake deeper into the corner when it is advantageous. Although that is more of a road bike technique.

In this scenario the pack being on the rider allows the bike to be more flickable if best practices are used to execute the turn. If the pack were on the bike then you theoretically would need to accelerate more mass side to side to get the tire in the correct orientation to the ground, which is on the sidewall.
 
Exactly, and the bike moves around a lot more than the rider. When you remove the nonessential weight from the bike, less energy is spent moving that weight around.

DingusMcGee said:
...inertia works all the time and you pay for each change in the motion vector...
 
Apex,

because of symmetry in this situation doing the (exact) integral for moment of inertia of those components for where they are will be very close to doing it as a point mass calculations. Do you know how to apply Calculus?

Robo,

the bike moves around a lot more than the rider.

great faulty assumption. The bike is almost always between your legs and a plain unsuspended bike has only 2 links and a person? [ maybe 100] We are talking lateral angles from the ground [you get the same answers regardless of where and what coordinate system you choose] and how they change when applying forces and torques to change the path of the lateral rotational inertia. So in leaning left and right we often get skewed to one side or other of the top tube.

you can apply the robotic [person like] motion equations for the dynamics & kinematics of the person to simulate his energy and force use on the bike. Each term has an inertial factor, calculated like I have shown when the symmetry exist. I have already shown the battery in the bike battery low has about 0.11 x the inertia of what it has when carried by the ryder.

When you remove the nonessential weight from the bike, less energy is spent moving that weight around.

This view neglects whole picture of what goes on in riding and control.

Yes, the bike moves easier but you are impeded far more for carrying it on your back when you are moving from side to side than if it were on the bike. It is a system. Where does the control energy come from?

Put the weight on control robot or on the bike -- it is a system and it makes an energy/control difference where you put it. I suspect Google is working on this too much like the computer driven car.
 
Let's say we have a race between these riders on regular non-powered mountain bikes.

Rider A 150 lbs
Bike A 50 lbs

Rider B 180 lbs
Bike B 20 lbs

Rider C 125 lbs
Bike C 75 lbs

Rider D 50 lbs
Bike D 150 lbs

All else being equal (skills, strength, endurance, equipment performance, etc.), which rider will win in a highly technical, curvy singletrack race and why?

DingusMcGee said:
 
Robo,

It is hard to visualize the equivalence -- you do say, all else being equal. I see the 200 lb total. Would they all tie? It is hard to imagine a flesh and blood 50lb rider with the same strength as a 180 rider. But I will go with the 50 lb robot of the same strength as the rest. Assuming he is a compact rider/machine/controller on the seat.

There is no physical way you are going to get 180 lb rider to have the same moment of inertia as 50 lb robot, so you have a false unachievable equivalence -- It is a blind sidedness and cluelessness of you logic-less people to declare with words a situation impossible in reality to construct. Write the equations, hamster. No bullshit talk games here please.


Enough! I am going trail riding [with a low CG]and rock climbing this weekend -- no more response here.
 
So, back to the main subject of this thread, Paul at Sick Bike Parts is sending me a new adapter for my freewheel, as you all saw, great customer support. Thanks go to robocam for helping me get in touch with Paul (Pablo), as Jim is currently away from work.
I freed up some money by selling some equipment from another hobby, so I pulled the trigger on a battery pack. I went with the 52v 11.5 pack from luna. I know it's on the small size, but my plan is to run this single pack for the season, then pick up another 11.5 pack in spring, thus doubling my capacity to 23 ah.
I also chose to buy their Batt-man gauge instead of a cycle analyst, cuz I'm a cheap-skate and it was a little cheaper. It seemed to have all the features I need so hopefully it is adequate for my needs.
So as of next week I should be able to get back to building the bike.
Next will be looking for a few upgrades for the bike, suspension forks, stronger wheels, and better brakes.
 
Hey Apex, i think you doing it right with the battery ;)
i also have a 50V 10ah battery in backpack, for short rides with the Bafang. Thats 3 to 3,5kg, and feels really not like much. Im Very happy with this amount of weight, use the same pack sometimes on the LR-Bike, for short rides (< 30Km)
Also, i see it the same way like you and Robo, what i read about intelligent weight-allocation and weight-suspension. That makes total sense to me.

i recap the last 3 pages: Battery in Backpack good for technical riding/ Offraod, Battery on Frame good for commuting and particulary good for Dingus

Dingus, i have done the battery in frame failure once, and learned from it 5 years ago. at this time my first Bike looked a lot like yours now :mrgreen:
That have nothing to do with lack of building skills, you just seem to be angry about anyone who do anything other (better?) than you do.
 
I just lost another SBP "heavy duty 14t freewheel". Does anyone know of a better solution for users like me that do a lot of steep climbing with a fat bike? I know Gman recommends the "dicta" 14 tooth as being marginally stronger. Or is an adapter available to use a BMX reverse freewheel.

Will this work with the proper adapter? ACS reverse freewheel 14t
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=12218&category=402
ACS Claws Southpaw Freewheel 14t or 16 t
Thicker teeth hold heavy-duty chains for skate park grinding
Thread Size: Reverse 1.37"x24tpi
Chain Compatibility: 1/8"
OR

ACS Claws Southpaw Freewheel
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=76478&category=402
ACS Claws Southpaw Freewheel
Intended for Left Hand Drive use only
Cassette Body Type: Threaded Left Drive
Chain Compatibility: 3/32"

Or does White Industries make the equivalent of the ACS reverse 16t
I don't consider 16 teeth a problem because it could be used with 48 tooth sprocket/freewheel.
 
I'm curious about your setup. What chainrings are you using, and what cassette teeth range do you have? Oh, and what voltage and current are you running?

sather said:
I just lost another SBP "heavy duty 14t freewheel". Does anyone know of a better solution for users like me that do a lot of steep climbing with a fat bike? I know Gman recommends the "dicta" 14 tooth as being marginally stronger. Or is an adapter available to use a BMX reverse freewheel.

Will this work with the proper adapter? ACS reverse freewheel 14t
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=12218&category=402
ACS Claws Southpaw Freewheel 14t or 16 t
Thicker teeth hold heavy-duty chains for skate park grinding
Thread Size: Reverse 1.37"x24tpi
Chain Compatibility: 1/8"
OR

ACS Claws Southpaw Freewheel
https://www.universalcycles.com/shopping/product_details.php?id=76478&category=402
ACS Claws Southpaw Freewheel
Intended for Left Hand Drive use only
Cassette Body Type: Threaded Left Drive
Chain Compatibility: 3/32"

Or does White Industries make the equivalent of the ACS reverse 16t
I don't consider 16 teeth a problem because it could be used with 48 tooth sprocket/freewheel.
 
In Portlandia Oregon; 40 bikes are reported stolen a day. Many more not reported because the police do absolutely nothing. I use a backpack battery when locking the bike up anywhere in the city. If you use a good quality backpack that lets your back breathe, it is not bad at all. A cheap backpack on the other hand is like the Spanish Inquisition. I use a triangle battery when riding trails and fire roads on my fat bike. A fat bike is not very agile anyway.
 
Don't worry about trying to visualize a person being strong enough. That variable has been removed to simplify the scenario. I never said they would have the same moment of inertia. So who would win and why? Oh, and each robot has to expend the same amount of energy during the race.

I'm just trying to understand what you're saying. Using an example makes it easier.

DingusMcGee said:
...It is hard to visualize the equivalence -- you do say, all else being equal. I see the 200 lb total. Would they all tie? It is hard to imagine a flesh and blood 50lb rider with the same strength as a 180 rider. But I will go with the 50 lb robot of the same strength as the rest. Assuming he is a compact rider/machine/controller on the seat.

There is no physical way you are going to get 180 lb rider to have the same moment of inertia as 50 lb robot, so you have a false unachievable equivalence...
 
Robocam: I have a 60v Luna triangle and a52 volt Luna triangle. My Cyclone controller puts out 43.5 amps. I have gone back to the 52volt because it is quieter and does not heat up the Cyclone to 110C as fast. I like to do steep climbs on a fat bike, so I am extremely hard on components.
I'm using a 14t motor- 44freewheel -44t chainring -32t chainring. I'm experimenting with a cheesy Shimano CS-HG41 8 Speed Cassette (11-13-15-17-20-23-26-34), cheesy Shimano RD-M360 Acera derailleur and Shimano shifter and a Wipperman Connex 8 speed chain. Motor chain is a Wipperman 1 speed Connex chain. The Shimano 8 speed components look and feel like something from Walmart but seem to work well. I've gone about 500 miles so far. I reason I did this is to utilize the Wipperman Connex 8 speed chain, which I reasoned would be much less likely to snap. I got tired of snapping 10 speed chains with the Cyclone. So far so good.
 
Thanks for the detailed reply! Have you considered trying a cassette with a 36 or even a 42/46 large sprocket? I think that would be much easier on your system. If you want to stay with an 8-speed system, this 41T sprocket should work. It's made of steel.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/MTB-Tools-41-Tooth-Cog-for-Mountain-Bike-Cassette-41t-Sprocket-/261664912556?hash=item3cec71b4ac:m:m34iIA3FgV-WV6iQGsqxqtg

If you lower the current to 35A (using a Cycle Analyst or modifying the shunt), you could even use 60V to speed things up so that you can run the same power without sending as much torque through your system. You'd still be able to climb the hill at the same speed but your components would wear much less, and your motor won't heat up any more than normal since you're running less current.

What gear do you use when you're climbing?

I was going to suggest reducing the size of the crankset chainring that goes to the cassette, but if you're snapping chains, that might not be such a good idea. When you were snapping chains, was that with the 13T or 14T motor freewheel?

But the general idea if you're having trouble with bicycle components before the hub is to speed things up while at the same time reducing the torque so that parts don't have to endure as much load. You could run the system at 72V 30A.

Have you noticed if the 14T heavy duty motor freewheel lasts any longer than the 13T?

sather said:
Robocam: I have a 60v Luna triangle and a52 volt Luna triangle. I have gone back to the 52volt because it is quieter and does not heat up the Cyclone to 110C as fast. I like to do steep climbs in a fat bike, so I am extremely hard on components.
I'm using a 14t motor- 44freewheel -44t chainring -32t chainring. I'm experimenting with a cheesy Shimano CS-HG41 8 Speed Cassette (11-13-15-17-20-23-26-34), cheesy Shimano RD-M360 Acera derailleur and Shimano shifter and a Wipperman Connex 8 speed chain. Motor chain is a Wipperman 1 speed Connex chain. The Shimano 8 speed components look and feel like something from Walmart but seem to work well. I've gone about 500 miles so far. I reason I did this is to utilize the Wipperman Connex 8 speed chain, which I reasoned would be much less likely to snap. I got tired of snapping 10 speed chains with the Cyclone. So far so good.
 
Will the cyclone 3000w kit work with Sram 9x http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fi/en/sram-x9-9-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod41154
 
That link doesn't work for me. What is it? If you're asking if it will work with a 9-speed system then yes.

redline2097 said:
Will the cyclone 3000w kit work with Sram 9x http://www.chainreactioncycles.com/fi/en/sram-x9-9-speed-rear-mech/rp-prod41154
 
Robocam, I will attempt to answer your questions

41t steel 8 speed cog on ebay:
I have already purchased one and am going to attempt to use it with a 9 speed Shimano RD-M772 XT derailleur. Either as a 9 sp or as an 8 speed. It may not work because the M772 max cog size is 36 and the M772 will not work with the Wolf Tooth goat link (I tried). Eight speed derailleurs only go to 34t, won't work with the goat link and stand no chance of making it to 41t.

60v:
The higher the voltage, the more noise the Cyclone makes and the quicker it gets hot. I just closely monitor temperature. When it gets to 110c I stop and it cools very quickly.

35amp current limit
The CA3-Lyen 4110 has terrible throttle response when compared with the Cyclone throttle. I just use the CA3 with the CA3 shunt to monitor current, temperature, speed and battery usage. I am not comfortable screwing around with the Cyclone controller internal shunt to limit it to 35a.
(67v x 35amps=2345 watts) and (58v x 43amps =2494 watts).

Climbing gear
I use the 32t chainwheel -34t cog when doing steep climbs. It will climb anything. That being said, I don't always use an appropriate gear when climbing because of noise and stealth.

Snapping chains:
When I was snapping 10 speed chains, I was stupidly using the 11 and 13 rear cogs. I was using the 14t motor freewheel-44t freewheel-44t-32 chainwheel. BTW: My son uses the 13 tooth motor freewheel doing the same climbs as me and has never lost a freewheel or chain. He weighs a lot less than I do and rides a normal 40psi mountain bike not a 8psi fat bike like me.

Cyclone Freewheel durability
I don't know about the relative durability of the Cyclone motor freewheels (13t vs. 14t). I have now lost two 14 tooth freewheels. I do know that Gman and Dingus have both lost freewheels. Gman recommends the "dicta" as a slightly more durable replacement I think the motor freewheel is next weak link in the Cyclone after the motor mount.
 
We have started a dialog with White about motor FW's. Key words: started, dialog, White. Do NOT bother WHITE directly, while on the surface it may seem to help (i.e. tell them there is demand), they trust us. When we come to them with a design for a new FW, they KNOW it will be a seller, and will add to their production. IF something becomes of this, thing 2-3 years - you guys know how long the UHD FW took. But for now, it's just words. NOT promising anything. It's an extremely SLOW and somewhat painful process. Production turns for existing products are 2-3 months, at best already.

So point being we definitely know all flavors, Dicta, etc motor freewheels fail. It seems like it is now the weakest link for hard riders - most customers never seem to have an issue. And the spot welds solved the number one self destruct issue. Cyclone is aware as well obviously, but no solutions currently. The motor FW mainly just need better bearings - unless you guys notice pawls failing.
 
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