new cyclone 3000 w mid-drive kit?
- Thread starter emaayan
- Start date
Off topic question, but I’m a nube and don’t know how to start a forum. Does anyone know if the Cyclone is plug and play with the Sabvoton 96120? Or Nucular 12F, Thermo Nucular 24F, ASI BAC 8000, etc? I’m not sure the phase wires are compatible. Any way to adapt phase wires from a controller or motor? Any info/advice would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
Not plug-and-play; you still have to re-solder connectors. But it works very well and has enough power to cook the motor.b.tremmel said:
Same as above except instead of cooking you'll either melt or explode it (unless you can resist the temptation to crank up phase/bat amps).
Where can I find
- Adapter cyclone 20mm axle to any freewheel which accepts chainrings that are available
OR
- Adapter for directly to any available chainring BCD
Purpose is to get 1/8 wide chainring to cyclone. Also, I want bigger than 14 tooth. Maybe 15--17
- Adapter cyclone 20mm axle to any freewheel which accepts chainrings that are available
OR
- Adapter for directly to any available chainring BCD
Purpose is to get 1/8 wide chainring to cyclone. Also, I want bigger than 14 tooth. Maybe 15--17
DtiK said:
Get an adaptor from gng. Shoot them a mail or write on facebook. I would buy more than one and grease threads so you have any chance reusing the adaptor.
https://www.gngebike.com/gng-2019-3000w
This adaptor uses 30mm freewheels. Careful, normal crank freewheels and hub motor compatible rear freewheels are 35mm.
You can get a 13t from gng and be done with it or go here.
https://m.aliexpress.com/item/32719960925.html
Careful, they have 30mm and 35mm freewheels in that listing, 30mm is 13(stock on gng) to 15t. Then 35mm is 16-18.
For 35mm freewheel there are a bunch that have 5 hole interfaces but you still need an adaptor plate to make a standard bcd of it.
For 30mm freewheels I haven't seen ones that have bolt holes instead of cogs on them, but they are quite cheap.
Tommm said:
Thanks. I actually found maybe one other option.
Does this fit cyclone?
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1927
Because then I can get this? OR similar with freewheel from ali
http://www.staton-inc.com/store/index.php?p=product&id=1225
lukashanak
1 W
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2019
- Messages
- 59
DtiK said:
Yes, it fits.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/cYmtpNkuBRKw2qG57
lukashanak
1 W
- Joined
- Apr 11, 2019
- Messages
- 59
Tommm said:
To much power for bike chain.
Problems with rear chain skipping starts on 6kW. And I ended with this:https://photos.app.goo.gl/7GHFFR2iEbJkSSsm8
No planetary gearbox, no motor freewheel.
With this setup bike chain can hold 12kW.
Anyone run just single speed sprocket at rear? What kind of top speeds you get with what gearing?
For example;
With 20S battery
I had 14 at motor, 40 at middle, 36 at middle and 20 at rear. Top speed 67km/h at battery full. Thats on flat straight asphalt.
Then I bought new sprockets;
14 at motor, 43 at middle, 45 at middle and 20 at rear. Now about 58km/h at same place and battery charge. But instead of before, I can keep my feet pedaling at 25km/h, cadense got little bit lower.
Next step I'm going to change motor sprocket (thanks for answers in thread), and going for maybe 16 and 17 tooth instead of 14.
For example;
With 20S battery
I had 14 at motor, 40 at middle, 36 at middle and 20 at rear. Top speed 67km/h at battery full. Thats on flat straight asphalt.
Then I bought new sprockets;
14 at motor, 43 at middle, 45 at middle and 20 at rear. Now about 58km/h at same place and battery charge. But instead of before, I can keep my feet pedaling at 25km/h, cadense got little bit lower.
Next step I'm going to change motor sprocket (thanks for answers in thread), and going for maybe 16 and 17 tooth instead of 14.
electric_nz
1 kW
- Joined
- Jan 7, 2019
- Messages
- 308
Definitely considering it. I find myself using mostly the middle range of sprockets in the rear cluster and the highest for pedalling.
Using 14-48 then 28 to an 8speed cluster.
Don’t need to go over 50kph/30mph but it would be nice to get there in a single gear. A 3spd hub would be awesome but I think 3kw would probably destroy it
Using 14-48 then 28 to an 8speed cluster.
Don’t need to go over 50kph/30mph but it would be nice to get there in a single gear. A 3spd hub would be awesome but I think 3kw would probably destroy it
matt912836
100 W
electric_nz said:
Sturmey archer 3 speed is almost indestructible, as long as you dont put too much power through the high gear at too slow of a speed, it will hold up. I ran 4kw, popping wheelies non stop through one, and it held fine for the most part. Laced to a motorcycle rim, with a forced air cooled cyclone. Only reason it ever started to fail was after the first time accidentally applying too much power in 3rd gear from a dead stop due to the crappy gear shifter changing by itself. After that the gear selecting mechanism slowly started to fail, had i always been in 1st or atleast 2nd from a dead stop it would have definitely lasted a lot longer. 1st is low gear and 2nd is 1-1. With a 24t sprocket i still got crazy acceleration in 2nd gear and 45mph+ top speed in 3rd, first gear was strictly for finely controlled slow speed wheelies
the best part about using the hub is the cog it uses is much thicker, being made for a single speed chain, allowing you to use a much beefier BMX chain.Heres how i used to abuse my builds for reference. Always made sure my drive train was able to take maximum power with all the settings maxed and boost mode on. I feel if you have to limit the power of your motor to stop things from breaking then you didnt build it right.
[youtube]eEvy54eOIeE[/youtube]
[youtube]vlRy3Am0qao[/youtube]
matt912836
100 W
CobraJet said:matt912836 said:
That was freeking awesome Matt!
What size battery pack are you using for the 4kW blasts?
72v 25a Boston swing pack, nothing spectacular but still up to the task.
matt912836
100 W
Having some problems with my cyclone 4kw and hoping someone can chime in. At first I was having stuttering problems from a stop even after testing all 36 possible hall phase combinations. I was told by cyclone support it was because I was using a sine wave controller, which matches what most people run into, dirty hall signals not allowing it to play nice with sinewaves. I went and purchased a 7280 square wave yuyang king, and the result is better but also still the same. With the best hall and phase combination I get amazing power speed and torque when the bike is rolling so I'm positive it's the right combo still (swapping blue and green phase with no hall sensors change) With no load on the wheel at all, it can go from a dead stop or even spinning backward to forward just fine. but applying decent throttle from a dead stop or rolling the bike in reverse while sitting on it causes a heavy nasty sounding clunk like a bad hall sensor motor trying to engage. Turning off fast start and boost on the controller seems to have helped much, but it will still happen if I gun the throttle hard enough without moving first. Controller does 80 amps battery and 200 phase so im sure its not as if the controller doesnt have enough power to keep up, and this never happened with my 3k so it's not a cyclone thing.
matt912836 said:
I have the same combo (coaxial 4kw, yyk7280), I don't have any of that issue. I suggest recording starting off with your phone sat next to the bike on the ground in slow motion video. You(or us if you post it) will hopefully see if there is a chain slipping or something similar.
matt912836
100 W
Tommm said:
I have the separate version 4kw that you manually run through a freewheel. White brother front and rear free wheels. I'm absolutely sure there is no slack or play in my drivetrain as it would not be able to handle the power it can do once the bike is rolling. One thing I'm noticing now though is if I put the motor in reverse mode in the app, the motor doesnt spin full speed, as if i have the wrong hall combo. Does yours spin fine if you put it in reverse too? I'm sure that's not normal. Now I'm clueless, because the motor works just fine at basically any speeds, just not from a dead stop or while the motor is being spun in reverse by backing up the bike. I feel like I'm being picky here because it kind of saves me from hammering on it at it's most vulnerable but now I feel something is definitely off still.
Edit: same thing happens when I find a hall sensor combo that makes the motor work smooth but in reverse. When I go in the app and switch it to move in reverse instead, it rotates forward, but grunts half way and doesn't catch full rpms and the motor wires get warm fairly fast. Genuinely stuck!
matt912836 said:
Reverse mode in the yuyangking controller isn't 100% speed, either 40 or 60%.
How can you be clueless and refuse to test what I wrote at the same time? It is false that if you add max power while rolling it will pull as hard as from a stop. That doesn't rule anything mechanical out at all.
matt912836
100 W
Just got back from blasting around for about 20 minutes at 100% battery and phase setting with boost on (80 battery amps 210 phase amps). Motor was lukewarm to the touch, no wires of concerning temperature, so I know it's the proper hall setup. Here is the bike rolling giving power.
[youtube]dADXfuxOdMk[/youtube]
Amazing sound and Extremely powerful and lifts up even this heavy frame and huge battery if you hit the throttle hard enough. Its geared for 45mph top speed with flux weakening so it's definitely a torque setup. I would definitely not be able to wheelie this thing with this much power with play in my drivetrain.
Here is the bike with soft start enabled. This setting makes it no problem to apply power from a dead stop or rolling in reverse
[youtube]qNUwwbn40cU[/youtube]
And here is the bike with normal settings I just got back from hammering on, showing the stutter problem
[youtube]O3YCETtiexw[/youtube]
Here I'd the slow mo video so you can see the motor cog simply wont spin itself forward, as if the controller didnt know how to spin the motor because it had the wrong hall combo, and nothing is actually bending skipping or slipping mechanically. In this video I do 4 pulls while going in reverse
And one pull while rolling forward to show the difference.
[youtube]-RSerGVS6_E[/youtube]
[youtube]dADXfuxOdMk[/youtube]
Amazing sound and Extremely powerful and lifts up even this heavy frame and huge battery if you hit the throttle hard enough. Its geared for 45mph top speed with flux weakening so it's definitely a torque setup. I would definitely not be able to wheelie this thing with this much power with play in my drivetrain.
Here is the bike with soft start enabled. This setting makes it no problem to apply power from a dead stop or rolling in reverse
[youtube]qNUwwbn40cU[/youtube]
And here is the bike with normal settings I just got back from hammering on, showing the stutter problem
[youtube]O3YCETtiexw[/youtube]
Here I'd the slow mo video so you can see the motor cog simply wont spin itself forward, as if the controller didnt know how to spin the motor because it had the wrong hall combo, and nothing is actually bending skipping or slipping mechanically. In this video I do 4 pulls while going in reverse
And one pull while rolling forward to show the difference.
[youtube]-RSerGVS6_E[/youtube]
