Newb Needs Help with Build Questions

donn said:
What tires are you putting on it now?

Thanks for the info, your explanation made a lot of sense; more weight needs more force.

I'm keeping my standard mtb 2.00 tires on it until I decide I need something else.

On another note: I'm going to rent a couple e-bikes with my mates tomorrow and we are gonna go on a long 40-50 mile ride. Only second time ever on an e-bike (first time was just a minute or so) and first time on one with a throttle, looking forward to it.
 
Patriotic_Banana said:
I'm keeping my standard mtb 2.00 tires on it until I decide I need something else.

You don't have to answer if you don't want to, but what tires are they?
 
It's nearly universal among BLDC motors to have maximum power at 50% speed, and maximum efficiency at 80% speed. Where they differ in is the breadth of their efficient/powerful ranges.
 
donn said:
You don't have to answer if you don't want to, but what tires are they?

I don't know what tires they are. They came stock on my Jamis Trail X. I could take a look when I get a chance.
 
Proper tire pressure will be the easiest improvement to handling/braking. Don't skimp on the tires, Flat Protection Strips(fps) are worth the convenience, even if it doubles tire cost. Added weight will require higher pressures, confirm pressure rating before purchase. http://www.dorkypantsr.us/bike-tire-pressure-calculator.html
Remember, the front tire is capable of 75-100% of potential stopping power. Over inflation can be a detriment to braking and handling.
Sprag clutches will usually come dry, and like open bearings on a roller skate wheel, have less friction. A MINOR amount of ATF can make it quieter, at the expense of attracting dirt to the internal components.

PS I think a wider rim is in your future, finding a proper back tire may be a challenge.
 
So to make sure I'm ready to change the back wheel out when it arrives (which is next week) I'm going to need some clear instructions on the steps.

Here is what I think I'm supposed to do:
1. Deflate tube and pull both tube and tire off of the old wheel.
2. Take the new wheel and put some sort of tape inside rim to prevent punctures (still confused on this)
3. Install tube and tire onto the new wheel and inflate to a decent PSI (55 or 60 psi)
4. Take new e-bike for a spin?

Really just confused on step 2.
 
Patriotic_Banana said:
2. Take the new wheel and put some sort of tape inside rim to prevent punctures (still confused on this)
[...]
Really just confused on step 2.

Okay, I'll back up to the basics. There are two kinds of rim liners, for the two kinds of rims (double walled and single walled). The kind for single wall rims is just a rubber band with a valve hole cut in it, and its job is to cover and smooth over the spoke nipple heads and spoke ends, so they don't damage the tube when it's pressed against them. A rubber band is very cheap and simple, and it does this job well enough.

Double walled rims have holes cut in the inner surface, to allow the nipples to be passed through and threaded onto the spokes. The nipples tighten up against the other wall of the rim, where the spokes enter from. So the surface the tube presses up against has rather large, sharp-edged holes in it, over an open cavity. These are covered up with fabric tape or sometimes a hard plastic strip-- which must withstand the pressure in the tire, resist being cut by the holes being covered, and also resist sagging into those holes deeply enough to expose any sharp edges.

In retail prices, a rubber rim band costs $1. A fabric rim strip costs $3-4. In manufacturer prices, that's something under a quarter versus something under a dollar.

Chinese cheesemongers always go for the rubber band, even though most of them use deep section double walled rims. This is the "mistake" (actually intentional) that you must correct by replacing the rubber band with a proper fabric rim strip of such a width that it doesn't allow the spoke holes to be exposed.
 
Chalo said:
In retail prices, a rubber rim band costs $1. A fabric rim strip costs $3-4. In manufacturer prices, that's something under a quarter versus something under a dollar.

I'll probably regret it, but my plan is to try 1" Gorilla tape the next time I do tube maintenance.
 
wturber said:
I'll probably regret it, but my plan is to try 1" Gorilla tape the next time I do tube maintenance.

I use that in the shop when I'm taping a rim that's too wide for the usual stuff. One turn of Gorilla tape is probably enough, but the pedicab guys use two layers (and typically 65psi). It leaves a little mastic behind when you pull it off, but not as much as traditional cotton rim tape like Velox or Zefal.

When I'm dealing with a really wide rim, I use 2" Gorilla tape that I rip down to whatever width I need.

Some folks use Gorilla tape to do tubeless conversions. I haven't tried that, but apparently it works.
 
Back
Top