For the sake of ~$30 I'd get a used computer/telecoms power supply. Using the car will get old very fast and soon waste that amount in fuel as you'd need to have the engine running all the time (even an average ebike battery has a capacity taht would totally drain an average car battery).
Noob - 48v 1000watt Rear Conversion
- Thread starter OCMike
- Start date
torker
100 kW
If you have a car battery around you can just hook a charger to it while using it. I modded an old power supply out of a computer. Really easy. And cheap.http://web2.murraystate.edu/andy.batts/ps/powersupply.htm
Here is a good tutorial. And a pic of mine when done.
Here is a good tutorial. And a pic of mine when done.
Attachments
OCMike
100 W
torker said:
Thanks! I think I'll just buy a ready made power supply. I'm REALLY frugal but I'm a total noob and I'm overwhelmed with information - some stuff I'm just going to have to go the expensive route - I'll save using my own pc power supply for another project once I'm up and running with this for a good period of time.
I'm just realizing I need LiPo bags for charging and storage. I'll probably keep my battery packs in a LiPo bag when in use as well - a nasty fire in the bike triangle at 25mph sounds horrible!
I'm looking at these -
http://www.amazon.com/Bluecell-Battery-Sleeve-Charge-Storage/dp/B007V9NYQA/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1370374594&sr=8-6&keywords=lipo+charging+bag
They're cheap. You get two. And they're big enough to fit my large pack of 4 8000mAh 22.2v LiPo batteries. I don't actually have the batteries yet, but HK says they're in route.
Can anyone recommend a power supply? I have a Thunder 1220 charger. wesnewell - any suggestion? You've been spot on every step of the way! It's pretty awesome!
I'm thinking to buy some cinder blocks and make a "charging house" out of them. I'll put the LiPo's in the bag and then the bag in the "charging house" to charge them.
I know I'm just getting to the point where I know enough to be dangerous.
OCMike
100 W
mark5 said:
Great Link! "Everything but a battery" post was very informative!
Thanks! And I like the flower planter idea and having a smoke alarm idea!
OCMike
100 W
It works!
http://youtu.be/vP-T5YTWrAg
Sweet!
Now I just need my paralleling balance cables. And install a bunch of stuff (rim tape, slime, torque arm, etc.). And figure out how to carry the batteries. And figure out where to put the controller. And figure out how to manage the myriad of cables. And get better at crimping (because I SUCK at that!), And figure out how to hook up and use my charger. And ... And ... And ... but hey, it's getting there and today was a huge step! Now I know it's not a bad one or something ... I know it works in other words!
YAY!
http://youtu.be/vP-T5YTWrAg
Sweet!
Now I just need my paralleling balance cables. And install a bunch of stuff (rim tape, slime, torque arm, etc.). And figure out how to carry the batteries. And figure out where to put the controller. And figure out how to manage the myriad of cables. And get better at crimping (because I SUCK at that!), And figure out how to hook up and use my charger. And ... And ... And ... but hey, it's getting there and today was a huge step! Now I know it's not a bad one or something ... I know it works in other words!
YAY!
OCMike
100 W
Wheel now installed. That last post was just a check to make sure it's actually going to spin when hooked up to power. I put the rim liner and slime on the wheel. Broke a tire iron trying to get the tire off the rim. Darn yescom tires are on there good! Hope I didn't make a hole in the inner tube getting the tire off and back on.
View attachment 1
I don't like the hose clamps that come with the Grin universal torque arm. I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow to see if I can get something that will be more friendly to my frame.
I did change the orientation of the torque washer. But the yellow wire doesn't want to click back into place. The springy flange is either bending back to straight or it's not seating far enough in it's home to lock in. I tried too many times ... don't want to screw it up somehow.
Thanks for showing me how to do this stuff guys!
My neighbor soldered some bullets for me and I crimped some anderson power poles. All I really need to do is secure the torque arm and I'll have enough to wear the batteries, controller, and throttle in a backpack! AWAY I GO! But I think I'll install it all
I'm still waiting on paralleling balance cables ... so I'm stuck with 45v 8ah at the moment ... but that's OK - it's enough I think - I have 3 packs of that size! I can't even charge yet though!
I bought the wrong crimper from Harbor Freight. I think I'll get that Anderson Tri-Crimp. I'm going to want to charge soon! I only have the charge that came with the batteries - each battery came with 23.1v on it - 3.85v per cell.
View attachment 1
I don't like the hose clamps that come with the Grin universal torque arm. I'll go to Home Depot tomorrow to see if I can get something that will be more friendly to my frame.
I did change the orientation of the torque washer. But the yellow wire doesn't want to click back into place. The springy flange is either bending back to straight or it's not seating far enough in it's home to lock in. I tried too many times ... don't want to screw it up somehow.
Thanks for showing me how to do this stuff guys!
My neighbor soldered some bullets for me and I crimped some anderson power poles. All I really need to do is secure the torque arm and I'll have enough to wear the batteries, controller, and throttle in a backpack! AWAY I GO! But I think I'll install it all
I'm still waiting on paralleling balance cables ... so I'm stuck with 45v 8ah at the moment ... but that's OK - it's enough I think - I have 3 packs of that size! I can't even charge yet though!
I bought the wrong crimper from Harbor Freight. I think I'll get that Anderson Tri-Crimp. I'm going to want to charge soon! I only have the charge that came with the batteries - each battery came with 23.1v on it - 3.85v per cell.
OCMike
100 W
I finished installing the wheel. Couldn't wait to ride it. Put two LiPo's and the controller in a back pack and tied the throttle to my handle bars. Woo Hoo! Awesome! My rear brake either broke or the cable got untacked - I think the latter because I had to loosen the allen screw to adjust the brakes - I bet I didn't tighten it up enough when I put it back together. My batteries came with 23.1 volts on each. I put two in series to have 46.2 volts. I rode it down to 42.9 volts. Don't know how far but it was fun. Stopped once to check the nuts and make sure everything was staying secure -- other than that it was pretty much full throttle. It's got a little kick when you first hit the throttle - even if you're gentle with it.
F'n SWEET! Knowing me I'll just ride it like this for 6 months!
F'n SWEET! Knowing me I'll just ride it like this for 6 months!
michaelkramer11
1 W
Did you/are you going to use regen braking? I just installed my yescom rear kit and am about at the same stage as you. I left off the brake levers it came with but have heard that you can enable regen braking in the controller.
Just wondering, anyways, your build is looking good!
Just wondering, anyways, your build is looking good!
OCMike
100 W
I did 11.7 miles on fresh batteries this morning. I have a 12S1P - 8ah battery. I started with 49.5v and ended with 45.2v. I then went about my day doing a bunch of sh*t that's no fun. I get home, rest a little and get to work.
The batteries and controller are out of the back pack! And the throttle is no longer tied to the handle bars. I even installed the brake levers so the motor cuts off when I hit the brakes! I'm amazed - that's progress ! !
But it sure is work in progress - look at it - it's a disaster! And knowing me - this is good enough! I'm the type of guy that if it's urgent, it gets done pronto. If it's important, it will probably get done soon. But if it's neither urgent nor important - it can take ages to get done. :|
It's ugly and awesome at the same time!
So, what do I do now? Easy choice - I go for a ride with the same battery (same charge) from this morning. I figure I still got 3.2v until LVC ... that's PLENTY. I think I went at least 5 miles and then the motor cuts out . I figure LVC I guess? So I don't hit the gas for a while and pedal. Then I hit the gas - nothing . So, I'm thinking may be once LVC is hit the controller is just shut down until a battery swap occurs. So I find a bench, unplug the battery, and hang out for 5 minutes. I figure the battery will come back a little - this will make the controller happy enough and I'll be able to limp home. But all I get is a tiny surge - just enough to put a "YES!" in my mind. And then nothing again . So, I ride home -- wow, riding a bike is hard!
I check my voltage and wa-la, it is LVC ... I'm happy again. Everything seems good. Controller doesn't let me ruin my batteries - yay! THANKS wesnewell - you da man! You called it every inch of the way - I hope I'm not overboard here - but I think your advice got me to make the very best choices I could in terms of value and performance - THANKS!
I need to get my $4 volt meter on my handle bars (thanks again wesnewell!)
So now my battery pack is in it's new home -- my very first charging house
Yes, I'm a geek. But I'm a hell of a nice geek - with a pretty sharp sarcastic sense of humor
The batteries and controller are out of the back pack! And the throttle is no longer tied to the handle bars. I even installed the brake levers so the motor cuts off when I hit the brakes! I'm amazed - that's progress !
!But it sure is work in progress - look at it - it's a disaster! And knowing me - this is good enough! I'm the type of guy that if it's urgent, it gets done pronto. If it's important, it will probably get done soon. But if it's neither urgent nor important - it can take ages to get done. :|
It's ugly and awesome at the same time!
So, what do I do now? Easy choice - I go for a ride with the same battery (same charge) from this morning. I figure I still got 3.2v until LVC ... that's PLENTY. I think I went at least 5 miles and then the motor cuts out
. I figure LVC I guess? So I don't hit the gas for a while and pedal. Then I hit the gas - nothing . So, I'm thinking may be once LVC is hit the controller is just shut down until a battery swap occurs. So I find a bench, unplug the battery, and hang out for 5 minutes. I figure the battery will come back a little - this will make the controller happy enough and I'll be able to limp home. But all I get is a tiny surge - just enough to put a "YES!" in my mind. And then nothing again . So, I ride home -- wow, riding a bike is hard!I check my voltage and wa-la, it is LVC ... I'm happy again. Everything seems good. Controller doesn't let me ruin my batteries - yay! THANKS wesnewell - you da man! You called it every inch of the way - I hope I'm not overboard here - but I think your advice got me to make the very best choices I could in terms of value and performance - THANKS!
I need to get my $4 volt meter on my handle bars (thanks again wesnewell!)
So now my battery pack is in it's new home -- my very first charging house
Yes, I'm a geek. But I'm a hell of a nice geek - with a pretty sharp sarcastic sense of humor
OCMike
100 W
Version 1.0 is complete 12S2P - 16ah hooked up and 12S1P - 8ah in the pannier.
The controller is mounted with 9 zip ties - 6 up top and 3 on the side. Gotto keep an eye on it and make sure the controller doesn't cut into the zip ties.
The whole rack can shift on a big bump and actually hit the tire - it happened once - I heard it happen and then saw the tire mark on the controller housing.
Getting the rack installed properly will likely fix the controller/tire rub issue.
This blob of wires is ugly and the assortment of colors makes it stick out like a sore thumb. Need to do something about that.
View attachment 2
My battery carrying system sucks! This is just a lunch bag with 12S2P - 16ah inside. It's held onto the bike with a single rope that has two rolling hitches in it two cinch it down. There's got to be a better way!
I get a little bit of a squeal out of the motor when I'm in CC at about 60-70% of throttle. Hope that's not anything to be concerned about. It's not too bad on the ears "yet".
My back is beginning to hurt ... I better take care of that before it gets out of hand ...
Cyclops tire(s)
Back friendly seat
ThudBuster
?
12S2P - 16ah hooked up and 12S1P - 8ah in the pannier.The controller is mounted with 9 zip ties - 6 up top and 3 on the side. Gotto keep an eye on it and make sure the controller doesn't cut into the zip ties.
The whole rack can shift on a big bump and actually hit the tire - it happened once - I heard it happen and then saw the tire mark on the controller housing.
Getting the rack installed properly will likely fix the controller/tire rub issue.
This blob of wires is ugly and the assortment of colors makes it stick out like a sore thumb. Need to do something about that.
View attachment 2
My battery carrying system sucks! This is just a lunch bag with 12S2P - 16ah inside. It's held onto the bike with a single rope that has two rolling hitches in it two cinch it down. There's got to be a better way!
I get a little bit of a squeal out of the motor when I'm in CC at about 60-70% of throttle. Hope that's not anything to be concerned about. It's not too bad on the ears "yet".
My back is beginning to hurt ... I better take care of that before it gets out of hand ...
Cyclops tire(s)
Back friendly seat
ThudBuster
?
lbz5mc12
10 kW
You know I'm always worried that when I park and lock my bike up at the grocery store etc. that someone is gonna see all the wires and stuff and think that it's a bomb and call it in. I can just imagine coming out with my groceries and the bomb squad's remote detonating my bike lol. Do you still have the cheapy battery bag that came with the kit? If so just strap it to the rear rack and put the controller in it and it'll take care of your exposed wire issue. The last yecom kit I bought had this huge battery bag. It was so friggin large that I was able to put two separate 36V SLA packs stacked on top of each other in it, zip it up and I still had room to spare. In fact I'm still using that bag but now I have a 36V 20A lithium ion pack, a 48V 10A lithium ion pack, an ebikekit controller and an Amped bikes controller in it on the back of my bike. I've got a dual motor bike, 48V in the rear and 36V up front, mostly for quick acceleration and hill climbing.
OCMike
100 W
Progress
My new 15S2P pack - 16 ah. 55.5 volts nominal. Went 28.5 miles yesterday on my 15S1P - 8ah pack averaging 14.25mph with moderate pedaling. Mostly flat both with and against the wind.
Inside container:
Inside of container:
View attachment 2
Mounted:
Voltmeter and Cruise Control Switch Mounted:
Now I need new tires (in transit), better headlight (in transit), a way to hide all those dang unsightly wires all over the place, a better way to carry batteries - locked up in the triangle somehow -- I've got ideas -- but they're not great. Then I might be done!
My new 15S2P pack - 16 ah. 55.5 volts nominal. Went 28.5 miles yesterday on my 15S1P - 8ah pack averaging 14.25mph with moderate pedaling. Mostly flat both with and against the wind.
Inside container:
Inside of container:
View attachment 2
Mounted:
Voltmeter and Cruise Control Switch Mounted:
Now I need new tires (in transit), better headlight (in transit), a way to hide all those dang unsightly wires all over the place, a better way to carry batteries - locked up in the triangle somehow -- I've got ideas -- but they're not great. Then I might be done!
999zip999
100 TW
Done ? This is a hobby style e-bike and the word done is not taken lightly. Good luck.
New controller and 20s ? I see in your future. Or just get the 100v controller for tomorrow.
New controller and 20s ? I see in your future. Or just get the 100v controller for tomorrow.
OCMike
100 W
999zip999 said:
We'll see. I want quicker. I don't think I want more speed. Quicker is easily achieved by using my legs. Makes me feel/look like superman I'm sure when I take off with legs pumping ... I'm probably 0 to 30 in less than 8 seconds.
Haste said:
What's a DH Bike? CA law already states it is not legal to have an e-bike capable of going faster than 20mph http://www.dmv.ca.gov/pubs/vctop/d01/vc406.htm . I'm already illegal
so I'd rather not have my bike looking illegal. I'm fine pedaling around at 18mph and when the coast is clear, safe, and I'm not actively conserving watt-hours I go ahead and bring on the WOT. It is fun At 12s I tested in a crouched aerodynamic position and got to 29.5mph.
At 15s I tested in a crouched aerodynamic position and got to 35.9mph.
At 15s with my new cyclops drive tire (a little longer circumference) I tested in a crouched aerodynamic position and got to 36.6mph.
I'm really not sure how fast but I can maintain FAST for long periods at WOT. I think approaching 30mph but I'm not sure. I use sportstracker with GPS on my phone (free Android app) ... I don't have an on board bicycle computer.
35mph on a bicycle seems really really fast. And I don't have disc brakes - my v-brakes work good but I'm not stopping on a dime and if a cable breaks or comes free there's no brakes on that tire - a scary proposition. I don't really know the lay it down technique on pavement
But this stuff is really cool! I'm 47 though -- not so resilient like younger folks.
dogman dan
1 PW
You aren't quite done. Find something hard to put around those lipo packs. Lots of different ways too do it. Coroplast political signs is what I tend to use, but others use Masonite strips or other durable materials.
Don't let those naked packs get dented carrying them around in just the lunch bag. I say this over and over, and yet not following my own advice, I carried some naked brand new cells in a lunchbag, "just this once" for a bit of extra range last month. Sure enough, I dinged one pack, and two cells won't hold a charge. On the bottom, they are all crushed. I took the pack out of it's normal protective box, so it would fit better in the lunchbag for that one ride.
I spent yesterday taking one of the packs apart, removing the two dinged and ready to explode into flames cells, and replacing them with new ones.
Make yourself a hard inner box to protect the cells from dings, that will happen for sure as death or taxes, if you carry it like that for very long.
Don't let those naked packs get dented carrying them around in just the lunch bag. I say this over and over, and yet not following my own advice, I carried some naked brand new cells in a lunchbag, "just this once" for a bit of extra range last month. Sure enough, I dinged one pack, and two cells won't hold a charge. On the bottom, they are all crushed. I took the pack out of it's normal protective box, so it would fit better in the lunchbag for that one ride.
I spent yesterday taking one of the packs apart, removing the two dinged and ready to explode into flames cells, and replacing them with new ones.
Make yourself a hard inner box to protect the cells from dings, that will happen for sure as death or taxes, if you carry it like that for very long.
OCMike
100 W
I think that's good solid advice dogman. I actually tried ... I bought some like super strong cardboard (it's like 3/16 thick reinforced paper) and made cutouts the exact size of my lunch bag. No DICE . Bag doesn't even come close to closing with the protective cutouts installed. The triangle is somewhat protected isn't it? And you are an off-rode guy, aren't you? You likely work your bike harder than I do. I have dropped my batteries a couple of times - the top ones slid off a stack when I picked them all up. They survived a 3 foot drop onto concrete. I cell check them pre-charge and post-charge every charge and balance charge every charge. I want to make sure I'm not low or high on any one cell before I ride and after I ride. I think that's thinking safe. But I'm sure (positive) I could do things to be more safe.
When I use my 15S1P pack, it's on my bike rack and in a LiPo bag. I anchor it with an extra wide velcro strap - seems really secure. I'm using the lunch bag in the triangle with my 15S2P pack.
I've laid it down at 0-1 mph 3 times. 2 times I was dismounting by swinging my leg over the seat while coming to a stop and my shorts got caught on the seat. 1 time I was just going too slow negotiating terrain. All 3 times the batteries didn't touch the ground. All 3 times I let the bike take the fall and saved myself - banged my knee on the pedal really bad once.
Thanks - please feel free to chastise me into being more safe - it's appreciated!
. Bag doesn't even come close to closing with the protective cutouts installed. The triangle is somewhat protected isn't it? And you are an off-rode guy, aren't you? You likely work your bike harder than I do. I have dropped my batteries a couple of times - the top ones slid off a stack when I picked them all up. They survived a 3 foot drop onto concrete. I cell check them pre-charge and post-charge every charge and balance charge every charge. I want to make sure I'm not low or high on any one cell before I ride and after I ride. I think that's thinking safe. But I'm sure (positive) I could do things to be more safe.When I use my 15S1P pack, it's on my bike rack and in a LiPo bag. I anchor it with an extra wide velcro strap - seems really secure. I'm using the lunch bag in the triangle with my 15S2P pack.
I've laid it down at 0-1 mph 3 times. 2 times I was dismounting by swinging my leg over the seat while coming to a stop and my shorts got caught on the seat. 1 time I was just going too slow negotiating terrain. All 3 times the batteries didn't touch the ground. All 3 times I let the bike take the fall and saved myself - banged my knee on the pedal really bad once.
Thanks - please feel free to chastise me into being more safe - it's appreciated!
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